Ch. 15-19 – Italy Flashcards
Italy
Italy
Italian wine history
back to at least 8th century BCE
- Phoenician and Greek influence
Expansion of Rome created home market for wine
- export in amphorae to modern day France and Spain
- wines from Lazio and Campania
Genoa and Venice trading centres of Europe
- wine as part of standard diet
Written report on Italian grape varieties
- 16th century
- Andrea Bacci
19th century - modern styles established
- Chianti
- International varieties in Northern Italy
After war - focus on high volume
Modernization in 1960s
- temperature control
- Bordeaux blends in Tuscany
- raising ambitions for high quality
- commercial success of Pinot Grigio and Prosecco
First written report on Italian grape varieties
when and who
Andrea Bacci
16th century
Italy general climate
Apennines running down mosst of the country
- providing wide range of sites
Most regions are influenced by sea
Inland regions - continental climate
In general warm Mediterranean
- very suitable for viticulture
General - grape varieties
between 375 and 500 identified varieties
- some strongly associated with single region
Sangiovese Pinot Grigio Trebbiano Glera Montepulciano Cattarato Merlot Chardonnay Primitivo Barbera
General - winemaking
Influence from Germany in white winemaking
- stainless ferment, controlled temp
Red winemaking - influenced by France
- new French oak (SuperToscans)
- Traditionally large Slavonian oak - oxidation but no new oak flavours
- old oak and large vessels are now comming back
- wine from local varieties does not have new oak flavours
Wine laws and regulations
DOC
- Denominazione di Origine Controllata 1967
DOCG
- Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Grantita 1980
- stricter rules
IGT
- Indicazione Geografia Tipica
- PGI (corresponding to Vin de Pays)
- wines from defined but larger area
- wider choice of varieties and styles
- typically higher yields
Vino
- replacement for ‘vino da tavola’
Legally defined labelling terms:
Classico:
- wines made exclusively from rapes grown within historical area of DOC or DOCG
Superiore
- Wines with higher minimum alcohol level
- typically additional 0,5%
Riserva
- Submitted to certain ageing period
- at least 2 years for red and 1 year for white
- some DOC/DOCG specify ageing and part of it in oak
First attempt to define wine production area legally
who and when
1716
Grand Duke Cosimo III de’Medici
Geographical limits of Chianti, Pomino (modern Chianti Rufina), Carmignano and Val d’Arno di Sopra
Criminal penalties for fraud
Law has never been used
DOCG
Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita
Classico
Classico:
- wines made exclusively from rapes grown within historical area of DOC or DOCG
Superiore
Superiore
- Wines with higher minimum alcohol level
- typically additional 0,5%
Riserva
Riserva
- Submitted to certain ageing period
- at least 2 years for red and 1 year for white
- some DOC/DOCG specify ageing and part of it in oak
IGT
IGT
- Indicazione Geografia Tipica
- PGI (corresponding to Vin de Pays)
- wines from defined but larger area
- wider choice of varieties and styles
- typically higher yields
General Wine business
One of two largest wine producing countries
Average size of vineyard is small (less than 2 ha)
- many cooperatives
- Caviro, (10% of wine by volume) Cantine Riunite, Gruppo Italiano Vini, Santa Margherita, Zonin
Local wine consumption is in long-term decline
Italian largest companies
Caviro, (10% of wine by volume) Cantine Riunite Gruppo Italiano Vini Santa Margherita Zonin
Trentino-Alto Adige general
influenced by Austrian heritage
- Trentino italian speaking
- Alto-Adige (Sudtirol) majority German speaking
At foothills of Alps
- vineyards at lower slopes
Both international and local varieties
Mostry single varietal wines
Most common varieties in Trentino
75% white
Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Muller-Thurgau, Pinot Bianco, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewurztraminer, Nosiola
- mostly unoaked, fresh
Teroldego, Merlot, Marzemino, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Lagrein
Trentino - growing environment and viticulture
Moderate continental climate with cooling influences
- mountains provide protection from north cold winds
- moderating influence of Lake Garda
- heat builds up at valley floor
- cool air descending from mountains
- wide diurnal range - higher acidity, longer growing season
Historically pergola trained vines for high yields
- now trellised vineyards
Grapes allowed in Trentino DOC
and max yields
white 100 hl/ha
red 90 hl/ha
10 white grapes and 9 black varieties allowed as single varietal
Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Muller-Thurgau, Pinot Bianco, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewurztraminer
Merlot, Marzemino, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir
Teroldego
Vigorous
Mid to late ripening
Historically pergola trained for high yields
- now Guyot
Suffers from drying out of stems
Less susceptible to mildew
Deeply coloured, medium tannin, black cherry
Best quality from Teroldego Rotaliano DOC
(sandy and gravelly soils)
Cannot be labelled as Trentino DOC
- but as Vini delle Dolomiti IGT
Marzemino
Vigorous
Mid to late ripening
Prone to botrytis bunch rot and powdery mildew
Older vines usually on pergolas, younger vines trained as spurred cordons
Deeply coloured, medium tannin, red cherry
Best wines from Ziresi subzone of Trentino DOC
- full sun exposure, rich calcareous/clay soils and basalt
Lagrein
Vigorous
Mid to late ripening
Needs warm site with plenty of sun to fully ripen
Subject to poor fruit set
Bitterness and harshness on finish is addressed by shorter maceration and oak ageing
Used in rose (deep colour)
Can be labelled italian/german
- Lagrein rubino/dunkel or Lagrein rosato/kretzer
Deeply coloured, medium tannin , ripe berry fruit
Best DOC for Teroldego
Teroldego Rotaliano DOC
Possible labeling for Teroldego
Teroldego Rotaliano DOC
Vini delle Dolomiti IGT
! Cannot be labelled as Trentino DOC
Best sub-zone for Marzemino
Ziresi subzone of Trentino DOC
- full sun exposure, rich calcareous/clay soils and basalt
Lagrein Italian and German labelling for red and rose
Lagrein rubino/dunkel
Lagrein rosato/kretzer
Moscato Rosa
Rose-scented sweet wines
- appassimanto method or late harvested
- premium priced
Poor fruit set and susceptibility to botrytis
- difficult to grow successfully
Nosiola
Small volume of distinctive white wine with light hazelnut flavour
Also made in semi-dried version - Vino Santo (NOT Vin Santo)
vulnerable to frost, powdery mildew and sour rot
Winemaking in Trentino
Whites
- soft pressing
- ferment in steel
- low temperatures 12-16
- briefly aged on lees
- released early
- top whites may see some oak
Red wines
- fresh and fruity
- maceration on skins during ferment 5-7 days
- moderate temp 17-20
- briefly aged in steel or old oak
Premium reds
- period of maceration after ferment (additional 7-14 days)
- warm ferment 26-32
- aged in small oak (small proportion of new)
Trentino Wine Law
Trentino DOC styles:
Blanco: min 80% Chardonnay and/or Pinot Grigio
Rosso: single variety or blends of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot
Single varietal wines: min- 85% of named variety
Two variety blends: shorter list of varieties
Rose: also called Rosato or Kretzer
Certain sub-zones can appear on labels together with Trentino DOC
Expression for Rose in Trentino
Rosato or Kretzer
Single varietal wine in Trentino DOC has to be:
min. 85% of named variety
Trentino DOC Bianco must be:
min 80% Chardonnay and/or Pinot Grigio
Trentino DOC Rosso must be:
Blend or single-varietal
Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot
Trentino Wine business
many small growers (average 1.2 ha)
- significant cooperatives (and some merchants) 80%
- Cavit 60%
Good penetration in restaurant sector in Italy
Alternative labelling term for Trentino DOC
Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT
Alto Adige viticulture
Training and management
Traditional pergola (usually high volume) now - Guyot
Leaf pickeng - better exposure of grapes to sunshine
Alto Adige climate
mild Alpine continental climate
- protected from cold winds by mountains to the north
- 300-700m
- warm air currents in valleys
- 300 days of sunshine
- wide diurnal range
- sufficient rainfall (concern at harvest)
Soils in Alto Adige
Great variety
- volcanic porphyry
- quartz
- mica rock
- Dolomitic limestone
Few zones (not accepted as sub-zones) in Alto-Adige
Bassa Atesina
- south
- warmer
- all varieties except Schiava
Oltradige
- Lake Caldaro area for Schiava
- Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon (valleys)
- Pinot Noir and white varieties (higher altitudes)
Alto-Adige grape varieties
Schiava Pinot Grigio Gewurztraminer Chardonnay Pinot Bianco Lagrein Pinot Noir Sauvignon Blanc
Schiava
also known as Vernatsch
Typically grown on pergola (to cope with natural vigour)
Pale ruby
Perfumed violet and strawberry
Med to light body and low tannins
Santa Magdalena DOC
- Schiava can be blended with up to 15% of Lagrein
- deeper colour and fuller body
Winemaking in Alto-Adige
Mostly preserving fruity aroma
- fermented at low temp 12-15 with selected yeast
- aged in steel
- may be kept on fine lees for 4-6 months
(premium for up to a year)
Some top whites and reds are aged in French barriques
Wine law in Alto-Adige
98% is DOC
11 white varieties, 7 black varieties allowed in Alto-Adige DOC
Allowed yields are lower than Trentino
- max for white around 90 hl/ha
Within Alto-Adige DOC wines can be:
Bianco
- min 75% Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco or Pinot Grigio
- 2 varieties must be present, but cannot exceed 70% of blend
- no corresponding Rosso category (as in Trentino)
Single varietal wines
- 85% of named variety
Dual variety blends
- both varieties must be more than 15% of the blend
Also possible to label with one of six sub-zones
DOC for Schiava
Lago di Caldaro DOC
Alto-Adige DOC Bianco must be:
- min 75% Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco or Pinot Grigio
- 2 varieties must be present, but cannot exceed 70% of blend
- no corresponding Rosso category (as in Trentino)
Alto-Adige DOC single varietal wine must be:
min 85% of named variety
Alto-Adige DOC dual variety blends requirements:
Both varieties must be more than 15% of the blend
Wine business in Alto-Adige
Typically very small vineyards (average 1 ha)
Cooperatives are very important (70%)
- also produce high quality wines
- Cantina Kaltern
- Cantina di Tramin
Producers: Alois Lageder, Elena Walch
Wines are sold principally in Italy
- under half in region itself
- important in hospitality sector
Export market: Germany, USA
Promotional body: Consortium Alto-Adige Wines
- Sudtirol logo on the capsule
Producers and cooperatives in Alto-Adige
Producers:
- Alois Lageder
- Elena Walch
Cooperatives:
- Cantina Kaltern
- Cantina di Tramin
Promotional body of Alto-Adige
Consortium Alto-Adige Wines
- Sudtirol logo on the capsule
Veneto climate
Warm and moderately continental climate
- moderate rainfall
- cooling infuence - altitude, breezes from Lake Garda
- Flat plains affected by fog and humidity from River Adige and Po
- problem with fungal diseases and Esca
Fertile soils - high yields (flat plains) - Veneto IGP
Hillside - better drainage and poorer
Veneto - Soave terroir
foothills of Alps and flat plains near river Adige
- limestone, clay, volcanic rock (basalt)
- naturally cool soils - slow down ripening
Garganega
Vigorous
Late ripening (October)
Traditionally pergola trained (now can be trellised)
Sensitive to winter cold, mildew and botrytis
Capable of producing Very high yield of high quality of grapes on good sites
Usually handpicked on hillside and machine harvested on plains
high acidity, med body, med intensity (lemon, apple/pear, white pepper, in warm vintage- stone fruits)
Usually no oak (some high-end is oaked)
Ages well - honey, almond
Soave winemaking
High quality
- short cold maceration
- cool ferment 16-18
- few months on lees
- few ferment/age in oak
Also vinified by the appassimento
Appellations for Soave
Soave DOC
Soave Classico DOC
Soave Superiore DOCG
Recioto di Soave DOCG
Soave DOC requirements
grapes from entire Soave region
Min 70% Garganega, up to 30% of Trebbiano di Soave (Verdicchio) or Chardonnay (up to 5% of these 30% can be other authorized variety)
Max yield 105 hl/ha
Can be sold after 1 December of the year of harvest
(80% of all Soave)
Soave Classico DOC requirements
grapes from hilly Classico region
Min 70% Garganega, up to 30% of Trebbiano di Soave (Verdicchio) or Chardonnay (up to 5% of these 30% can be other authorized variety)
Max yield 98 hl/ha
Can be sold after 1 February of the year after harvest
(20% of all Soave)
Soave Superiore DOCG requirements
grapes from same zone as Recioto di Soave
Min 70% Garganega, up to 30% of Trebbiano di Soave (Verdicchio) or Chardonnay (up to 5% of these 30% can be other authorized variety)
Max yield 70 hl/ha
Can be sold after 1 September of the year after harvest
Tiny production
Recioto di Soave DOCG requirements
grapes from delimited hilly zone
Min 70% Garganega, up to 30% of Trebbiano di Soave (Verdicchio) or Chardonnay (up to 5% of these 30% can be other authorized variety)
Max yield 36 hl/ha (semi-dried)
Rich floral, honeyed, sweet wines with high balancing acidity
Soave wine business
Region of small growers (average 2 ha) and large bottlers.
Largest cooperative - Cantina di Soave
Loosing market share to Pinot Grigio
- 80% exported (Germany, UK)
Producers: Pieropan, Inama
Soave Consorzio - classification of single vineyards ‘cru’ system based on soil, aspect, elevation
Valpolicella terroir
Foothills in north
- Limestone and clay or volcanic soils
- cool soils
- slow down ripening, more acidity
South
- gravel and sand
- warmer
- fruitier, less acidity, less concentration
Grape varieties in Valpolicella
Corvina Veronese
Corvinone
Rondinella
Molinara
Corvina Veronese
Vigorous, high yields
Mid to late ripening
Thick skins (suitable for drying)
Prone to downy mildew, botrytis, esca
Sensitive to drought and sunburn
Well suited to pergola traning
- does not carry fruit on first few buds
- shade prevents sunburn
- air circulations lowers disease pressure
- it can also grow on trellises
Mostly blended
Violet, red cherry, red plum, herbal note
Low to med tannins and high acidity
Allegrini single varietal Corvina ‘La Poja’
Corvinone
Not related to Corvina
Big clusters
Prone to downy mildew
Does not ripen uniformly and fruit must be picked bunch over bunch
Good blending partner to Corvina as it adds tannins
Red cherry
Dries well (for appassimento)
Rondinella
Reliable and productive, suitable for wide range of soils
Good disease resistance (good for drying)
Prone to esca
Can give rather neutral wines, light simple cherry
Accumulates sugar very fast (useful for Recioto)
Molinara
high yielding
Pale colour, contributes acidity, red-berry fruit, lightness
Important part of Bardolino blend (up to 40% Molinara)
Valpolicella winemaking
Early consumption
- ferment at controlled 20-25 to retain primary
- short maceration 5-7 days
- aged in steel or large neutral oak for 6-8 months
Also produced as appassimento
Appassimento method
Passito style
Grapes are picked and allowed to reach semi-dried state before they are crushed (3-4 months in well-aerated lofts)
Grapes may be picked early at 11% of potential alcohol
- maintains acidity
- ensures healthy bunches
Must be checked regularly and rotated
Humidity, temperature and air movements are controlled
Grapes loose around one third of their weight
- higher level of sugar
- higher potential alcohol
- higher acidity
- higher anthocyanins and tannins
- higher flavour concenration
- more glycerol (softer, fuller mouthfeel)
Outcomes of appassimento method on flavour of wine
Grapes loose around one third of their weight
- higher level of sugar
- higher potential alcohol
- higher acidity
- higher anthocyanins and tannins
- higher flavour concenration
- more glycerol (softer, fuller mouthfeel)
Common requirements for all DOC and DOCG in Valpolicella
Corvina must be 45-95% of the blend
Corvinone may be up to 50% of the Corvina element
Rondinella 5-30%
Other authorized varieties including Molinara
Possible DOC and DOCGs for Valpolicella
Valpolicella DOC Valpolicella Classico DOC Valpolicella Valpantena DOC - all above can be Superiore Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG Valpolicella Ripasso DOC
Valpolicella DOC
Requirements and expression
max yield 84 hl/ha
Corvina must be 45-95% of the blend
Corvinone may be up to 50% of the Corvina element
Rondinella 5-30%
Other authorized varieties including Molinara
Typically made with short maceration
Bright purple tints in youth
Red cherry, rose
No oak flavours, low to med tannin, med (med+)
Valpolicella Classico DOC requirements
Grapes must come from hilly Classico zone
max yield 84 hl/ha
Corvina must be 45-95% of the blend
Corvinone may be up to 50% of the Corvina element
Rondinella 5-30%
Other authorized varieties including Molinara
Greater concentration than Valpolicella DOC
Valpolicella Valpantena DOC requirements
Grapes from Valpantena valley
max yield 84 hl/ha
Corvina must be 45-95% of the blend
Corvinone may be up to 50% of the Corvina element
Rondinella 5-30%
Other authorized varieties including Molinara
(Valpolicella) Superiore
Optional specification for:
- Valpolicella DOC
- Valpolicella Classico DOC
- Valpolicella Valpantena DOC
Higher min alcohol
Often aged in large oak vessels
Can be sold from 1 January in the second year after harvest
Ruby colour, greater concentraton than basic Valpolicella
Valpolicella producers
Quintarelli
Romano dal Forno
Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG
requirements and expression
Grapes can be sourced from anywhere in Valpolicella
if classico is stated - must come from Classico zone
Grapes must be dried off the vine for 100-120 days
The final yield (after drying and pressing) is maximum of 48 hl/ha
min 12% abv and aprox. 50 g/l RS
Intense red, fresh and dried fruit
Full body, medium+ (high) tannins
Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG
Requirements and expression
dry or off-dry
Grapes can be sourced anywhere in Valpolicella
The final yield (after drying and pressing) is maximum of 48 hl/ha
Usually vinified after 100-120 days of drying
Min alcohol 14% abv (often 5-10 g/l RS)
Max RS raises in steps for wines with more alcohol
Must be aged min 2 years in large casks or barriques (4 years for riserva)
Intense cherry, dried fruit spice, wood
Med (high) tannins, high acidity
May have new oak flavours, nutty volatile notes from oxidation as part of style
Valpolicella Ripasso DOC
Unpressed grape skins with some RS are taken from Amarone or Recioto production and macerated in vinified Valpolicella wine.
- Yeast ferment the RS
- skins give more colour, flavours and tannin
15% of Amarone can be added
Min 12.5% abv (13% for Superiore)
Can be sold from 1 January two years after the harvest
Med (full) body, medium+ tannins
Fresh and stewed red cherries and plums
Wine business Veneto
Valpolicella Consorzio represents 80% producers of DOC(G) wines
- involved in research and sustainability
Amarone and Ripasso are extremely popular style
65% of Amarone is exported
- Germany, USA, Switzerland, UK
Other DOCs in Veneto
Pinot Grigio delle Venezie DOC Bardolino DOC Bardolino Superiore DOCG Bianco di Custoza DOC Lugana DOC
Pinot Grigio delle Venezie DOC
Replaced Pinot Grigio delle Venezie IGP
Grapes have to be grown in Veneto, Friuli-Venezia Giulia and Southern Trentino province of Trentino-Alto Adige
max yield 126 hl/ha
85% of Italian Pinot Grigio (40% worldwide)
Light to med- intensity apple lemon
Light to med- body, med alcohol, med+ acidity
Bardolino DOC
Bardolino Superiore DOCG
Has a small Classico zone
Close to Lake Garda
Mainly light bodied reds and rose
Corvina blends (35-80%) + up to 20% of other authorized red varieties (10% max for any of those)
Merlot can be used
Min alcohol 10.5% (DOC) 11% (DOCG)
Max yield 91 hl/ha
Rose is called Chiaretto
Bianco di Custoza DOC
easy drinking, lightly aromatic fresh white
Blend of mainly Trebbiano Toscano, Garganega, Friulano and optionally Cortese
Mainly sold in Italy (biggest producers are coops)
Lugana DOC
crosses boundary to Lombardy
Turbiana grape (previosly Trebbiano di Lugana) - same as Verdicchio
Ripe apple, citrus, hazelnut
Lively acidity, saline finish
May be oak aged
IGP in Veneto
Venezie IGP
Name for Rose in Bardolino DOC
Chiaretto
Piemonte grape varieties
Barbera Moscato Bianco Dolcetto Nebbiolo Cortese Brachetto Arneis
Piemonte growing environment
Moderate continental climate
- protected from cold northern winds and excessive rain by the Alps
- protected from Mediterranean by Apennines
- thunderstorms hail and fog are common
- late frost can be threat
- low rainfall in June and September - allows grapes to ripen and lowers threat of fungal diseases
- Rain increases in September and October
Nebbiolo
Early budding, very late ripening
Vigorous
- need regular canopy management
- cluster thinning
- excessive exposure to sun can be problem
Must be trained high
- first few buds are infertile
- needs to be pruned with more buds
- Single Guyot most common
Discussion about clonal vs massal selection (Gaja)
Pale ruby (turning garnet within 3-5 years) Pronounced intensity of violets, rose, red cherry and red plum Full body, high acidity, can be high alcohol
Finest and most perfumed on calcareous marls
- south, southwest facing sites in Langhe
Nebbiolo Denominations
Barolo DOCG Barbaresco DOCG Roero DOCG Gattinara DOCG Ghemme DOCG Langhe Nebbiolo DOC Nebbiolo d'Alba DOC
Barolo DOCG
must be 100% Nebbiolo max 56 hl/ha Barolo DOCG - aged for 3 years and 2 months (38 months) - including 18 months in oak Barolo Riserva DOCG - aged for 5 years and 2 months (62 months) - min 18 months in oak
South, South-west facing slopes
- 200-400m
- good sunlight with cooling influence
- pronounced wines with high acidity
Often blends of different villages (Bartolo Mascarello)
Single vineyards (Gaja, Bruno Giacosa)
- status of MGA
- vigna (vineyard) cannot appear on label unless certified
Soils in Barolo
Blue-grey marl - noth and west - lighter more aromatic wines, drinkable faster - La Morra Yellow-grey sand and clay (more fertile) - south and east - closed and tannic in youth - must be cellared for 10-15 years - Serralunga d'Alba
Single vineyards in Barolo and Barbaresco
certification
status of:
- Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive
- MGA or MeGA
- vigna (vineyard) cannot appear on label unless certified
Cannubi, Vigna Rionda
What is Barolo Chinato
Barolo wine sweetened and infused with herbs and spices
Barbaresco DOCG
must be 100% Nebbiolo
Barbaresco min 2 years of ageing (4 years for Riserva)
max yield 56 hl/ha (same as Barolo)
Many single vineyards have MGE status
one third of size of Barolo
- slightly lower altitude
- slightly warmer,
- harvest usually a week before
- riper style