Ch. 2 – Bordeaux Flashcards

1
Q

Bordeaux

A

Bordeaux

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2
Q

History of Bordeaux

A

17th century - land unsuitable for viti was drained by Dutch residents

Bordeaux - long been centre of wine exports

  • created class of merchants and brokers
  • established international reputation

1855 Exposition Universelle de Paris

  • classification based on price in Medoc and Graves
  • 5 bands (Sauterrnes 3 bands)
  • essentially unaltered till today

111,000 ha planted (70% inexpensive or mid-priced)
- 3% premium

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3
Q

Two rivers flowing through Bordeaux

A

Garonne and Dordogne which flow into Gironde

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4
Q

Bordeaux climate

A

Moderate maritime climate

  • cooling influence of Atlantic
  • sufficient rainfall
  • relatively dry autumn

Left bank - partially protected from Atlantic by pine forests (Landes) - cooler and more marginal
- norhtern Medoc is more open to Ocean

Rainfall is variable (950mm)

  • excessive rain is factor of vintage variation
  • climate change - drier conditions
  • fungal disease threat

Right bank - less maritime influence (still a factor)

Frost risk further from Gironde (river has moderating effect)

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5
Q

Climatic conditions supporting balance of wine in Bordeaux

A

Cooling influence of Atlantic

Gentle heat during growing season

Sufficient rainfall to promote ripening

Relatively dry autumn for steady and complete ripening

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6
Q

Rainfall in Bordeaux and its consequences in growing season

A
  • excessive rain is factor of vintage variation

950mm on average

Flowering
 - poor fuit set
Through growing season 
 - increased disease pressure
Following veraison 
 - unripe fruit and fungal diseases
Harvest
 - diluted flavours
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7
Q

Soils Left bank

and its qualities

A

deposits of gravel (mixed with clay, sand and minerals) and stony soils
(from floodwaters from Pyrenees and Massif Cetral)

All top estates are planted on gravel mounds (croupes)

Soil is not very deep

Drains well - roots dry out fast after rain
- in hot years can mean risk of drought stress (especially on shallow soils)

Great heat retention (releases heat at night to promote slow ripening)

More robust (less acclaimed) wines on clay pockets

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8
Q

Soils Right bank

A

Far more clay but still with significant patches of gravel
- dominated by Merlot

Limestone plateau and gravel section on borders of Pomerol

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9
Q

Merlot

A
Early budding (vulnerable to frost)
Mid ripening (picked before autumn rain)

Susceptible to coulure, drought, botrytis
- sorting necessary

Can ripen fully in colder years

Dominant on Right bank and cooler northern Medoc
- waterholding capacity of clay enables it to produce large berries - higher alcohol potential

Contributes with med to pronounced intensity
- cold years: strawberry, red plum, herbaceous flavours
- hot years: cooked blackberry, black plum
Med tannins
Med to high alcohol

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10
Q

Cabernet Sauvignon

A
Late budding (protected from frost)
Ripens late (needs warmer soils, vulnerable to autumn rains)

Small, thick-skinned (high tannin content)

Prone to fungal diseases

  • powdery mildew
  • trunk diseases Eutypa and Esca

Highest quality on warm, well-drained soils - gravel of Medoc

Contributes with violet, blackcurrant, black cherry, menthol or herbaceous flavours
med alcohol
high acidity
high tannin

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11
Q

Cabernet Franc (contribution to Bordeaux blend)

A

Contributes with:
Red fruit
high acidity
medium tanin

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12
Q

Malbec

A

mainly replanted with Merlot after frost of 1956

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13
Q

Petit Verdot

A

Buds early, ripens later than Cabernet Sauvignon
- difficult to grow in Bordeaux (but valued)

Prone to spring frost
Fails to ripen in cool years
Vulnerable to rain around harvest

Does best on warmer parts of Medoc

Often less than 5% of blend

Powerfull, deeply coloured wines
Spice notes
High tannins

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14
Q

Semillon

A

Mid-ripening

Susceptible to botrytis and noble rot in right conditions

High yields

Light intensity apple, lemon, grassy
Med body, med alcohol, med (med+ acidity)
- often softens Sauvignon Blanc’s more intense flavours and acidity

Strong affinity with vanilla and sweet spice from French oak

Botrytis affected: honey, dried fruit (lemon, peach) waxy texture

Ageability - toast, honey
(Sauvignon Blanc flavours do not evolve)

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15
Q

Sorting

A

Depends on value of wine and quality of te vintage

High quality wine

  • sorted in the vineyard
  • by hand on vibrating belt
  • optical sorting

If vintage is good - less sorting

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16
Q

Harvesting/vinifying more plots

A

Many producers vinify plot by plot

  • for optimum ripeness (different harvest times)
  • creating material for blending
  • requires more smaller vessels (adds cost)
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17
Q

Fermentation of red wine

A

Closed vats with pump-overs

Mostly cultured yeast

Vessels: wood, stainless, concrete (with temp control)

Temperature - depends on style and vintage

  • inexpensive - mid temp (5-7 days of maceration)
  • Premium - mid to warm (14-30 days of maceration)

Post-ferment maceration is reduced in poor vintages if fruit is not fully ripe

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18
Q

Pressing

A

Pneumatic press or modern hydraulic, vertical press
- gentle extraction

Winemaker decides on % of press wine (adds structure and tannin)

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19
Q

Size of Barrique

A

225l

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20
Q

Malolactic

A

in tank or barrel

Many producers go for rapid completion (cellars may be heated)
- for wines to be tasted following spring by journalists

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21
Q

Maturation

A

Simple styles

  • steel, concrete or large vats
  • 4-6 months
  • oak chips may be added

Premium

  • French oak barriques
  • mix of first, second and three year old
  • up to 100% new (trend is decreasing)
  • usually med to med plus toasting
  • 18-24 months (depending on quality)
  • more concetrated wines need longer
  • traditionally racked each 3 months
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22
Q

Blending

A

2 approaches:

Early (spring after harvest)

  • to present wines in spring
  • blending over winter
  • near-final blend
  • deselection of wine for second or third label and bulk to sell

Few months before bottling

  • blending team can assess evolution of each variety and lot before making decision
  • winemaking consultants
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23
Q

Muscadelle

A

Very prone to botrytis

Contributes with flowery, grapey notes

Not related to Muscat

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24
Q

Planting density

A
  1. 000 vines per hectare
    - suitable for relatively infertile soils
    - moderates vigour
    - adds cost for plants and trellising
    - special over the row tractors
    - more time needed for management
    - best use of expensive land

Less prestigious appellations often planted at lower density

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25
Vine training
Cane pruning - canes trained along wires - Double Guyot (Left Bank) - Single Guyot (Right Bank) Cordon-pruned (rare) - spur-pruned - natural reduction of yield and aeration to bunches
26
Canopy management
Important to reduce incidence of downy mildew, powdery mildew and botrytis bunch rot Leaf removal in summer - improve aeration and deter rot - aids ripening 'Soft pruning' to fight Eutypa dieback and Esca Pruning short in winter instead of greenharvesting - better vine balance
27
Average yield
50 hl/ha average
28
Harvest
Teams are hired for longer periods - expected paid idleness Workers from other EU countries Remote or high yielding sites are picked by machine
29
Rose winemaking
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon mainly In the past made by bleeding off (by-product) Now direct pressing 2 styles: - deeper coloured Clairet - lighter coloured rose
30
White winemaking
Pressed directly at arrival or left on skins (up to 24h) Inexpensive - cold ferment in steel Mid range - left on fine lees for 6-12 months Higher quality - fermented and aged in barriques (proportion new) - many block malo - may use batonnage Prof. Denis Dubourdieu and Andre Lurton - focus on Sauvignon Blanc - skin contact - less new oak
31
Viticulture for sweet wine in Bordeaux
Usually 1/3 of yield for still wines - pruning to low levels of buds - removal of any fruit showing disease or damage - below 10 hl/ha is common - max yield 25 hl/ha (Sauternes and Barsac) - high production cost Harvest can lst from September to November - up to 12 passages
32
Level of Botrytis depends on:
Whether conditions are correct for spread of noble rot Proximity to areas where mist forms Willingness to wait for the best times to harvest and risk losing some fruit due to weather Willigness to pay pickers for multiple passes
33
Winemaking options for sweet wine in Bordeaux
Once picked, handled as white wine Ferment in steel, concrete or barriques Aged for varying periods in any of those containers Top-quality typically barrel-ferment with high proportion of new oak and barrel aged for 18-36 months - encouraging gentle oxidation - new oak from 30 to 50% - Yquem 100% new oak Less prestigious wines are often unoaked
34
Bordeaux generic appellations
Bordeaux AOC - max yield white 65hl/ha Rose 62 hl/ha Red 60 hl/ha Bordeaux Superieur AOC - max yield 59 hl/ha for red wine for still red, rose and white Covers whole region Together 50% of wine in Bordeaux Mainly Merlot ``` Med intensity red fruit high acidity med+ tannins med body and alcohol Inexpensive to mid priced, acceptable to good ```
35
Left bank red wine appellations
``` Médoc AOC Haut-Médoc AOC Saint-Estèphe AOC Pauillac AOC Saint-Julien AOC Margaux AOC Listrac-Médoc AOC Moulis AOC ```
36
Graves appellations
Graves AOC | Pessac-Leognan AOC
37
Right Bank red wine appellations
``` Saint-Émilion AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru AOC Saint-Émilion satellites - Montagne Saint-Émilion AOC - Lussac-Saint-Émilion AOC Pomerol AOC Lalande-de-Pomerol AOC ```
38
Cotes de Bordeaux appellations
``` Blaye Cotes de Bordeaux Cadillac Cotes de Bordeaux Castillon Cotes de Bordeaux Francs Cotes de Bordeaux Cotes de Bourg AOC ```
39
Sweet wine appellations
``` Sauternes AOC Barsac AOC Sainte-Croix-du-Mont AOC Louplac AOC Premieres Cotes de Bourdeaux AOC ```
40
Médoc AOC and Haut-Médoc AOC
Left bank of Gironde Red wine only Max yield 55 hl/ha Can only be sold fro mid-June after harvest Médoc - far north end Haut-Médoc - includes Laft Bank individual communes - warm gravelly sites - 50% Cebernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot - Gironde moderating influence - high proportion of gravel - communes 57 hl/ha - pronounced blackcurrant, green bell pepper, red plum, vanilla and cedar - med to high alcohol, high tannins, med+ bodied Wide range of prices and quality
41
Max yield and when can the wine be sold in: | Médoc AOC and Haut-Médoc AOC
Max yield 55 hl/ha (!57 hl/ha in communes) Can only be sold fro mid-June after harvest Red wine only
42
Expression of top Left Bank Bordeaux
Pronounced blackcurrant, green bell pepper, red plum, vanilla and cedar Med to high alcohol, high tannins, med+ bodied
43
Saint-Estèphe AOC
Most northrly and coolest More Merlot than other communes - more clay (better water retention - dry years) Rustic wines which need many years in bottle (cool climate) to soften tannins No first growth Château Montrose (2nd)
44
Pauillac AOC
High proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon planted (62%) - many top estates have 70-80% of Cabernet in blend High concentration and longevity Most structured wine of Left Bank High tannins, High acidity 3 first growths (85% of classified wines) Château Lafite Rothschild Château Latour Château Mouton Rothschild
45
Saint-Julien AOC
High proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon High proportion of classified growth Homogenous gravel soils Mid-way between powerful structure of Pauillac and finesse of Margaux No first growth but 5 second growths Château Léoville-Las Cases (2nd) Château Léoville-Poyferré (2nd) Château Léoville-Barton (2nd)
46
Margaux AOC
high proportion of classified growth 1 first growth Slightly less Cabernet Sauvignon Further south - vines ripen few days earlier - can be advantage againt autumn rains Bit of clay - additional investment into drainage Perfumed wines with silky tannins Château Margaux Château Rauzan-Ségla (2nd)
47
Listrac-Médoc AOC and Moulis AOC
Further from the riveer - benefit less from moderating influence of river - less gravel Typically good to very good, mid priced to premium
48
Graves AOC
for white (max 58 hl/ha) and red (max 55 hl/ha) Graves Superieures AOC - late picked and/or botrytis affected sweet wines
49
Pessac-Léognan AOC
Sub region of Graves AOC Gravel soils and moderating effect of Garonne - known for high quality - also high quality barrel fermented and aged whites One First Growth (and all Cru classee of Graves) Reputation for best whites in Bordeaux Max yield 54 hl/ha for both white and red White - Blend of SB and Semillon - pronounced gooseberry, lemon, grapefruit, vanilla, clove - med + body, med+ (high) acidity, med (high) alcohol Reds are similar in style to Medoc Château Haut-Brion
50
Entre-Deux-Mers AOC
White wine only (red wine is produced but labelled Bordeaux) max yield 65 hl/ha acceptable to good
51
Saint-Émilion AOC and Saint-Émilion Grand Cru AOC
Both cover the same area Red wine only Saint-Émilion AOC (max yield 53 hl/ha) Saint-Émilion Grand Cru AOC (max yield 46 hl/ha) Dominated by Merlot (60%) and then Cabernet Franc Has its own classification system Wide range of quality Best examples have pronounced black plum, vanilla, clove, full body, high alcohol, med+ (high) acidity, med +(high) tannins Château Angélus Château Ausone Château Cheval Blanc Château Pavie
52
Saint-Émilion Satellites
4 AOC close to Saint-Émilion but further away fro Dordogne same rules as Saint-Émilion Montagne-Saint-Émilion AOC Lussac-Saint-Émilion AOC
53
Pomerol AOC
Red wine only (Merlot dominated - 80%) Max yield 49 hl/ha No classification system but many top-quality estates - in style similar to Saint-Émilion Small size estates - small production Pronounced black plum, vanilla, clove, full body high acohol, med+ (high) acidity, med+ (high) tannins Ages very well Château Pétrus Château L'Évangile
54
Côtes de Bordeaux
``` Red and white Right bank Number of communes can connect their name before the AOC - Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux - Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux - Casillon Côtes de Bordeaux - Francs Côtes de Bordeaux ``` Max yield - red wine 55 hl/ha (52 hl/ha if commune name appears) Côtes de Bourg AOC - Under Côtes de Bordeaux AOC - Merlot dominated - similar in style and price to Medoc AOC - Focus on Malbec with 10% of hectares
55
Côtes de Bourg AOC
- Under Côtes de Bordeaux AOC - Merlot dominated - similar in style and price to Medoc AOC - Focus on Malbec with 10% of hectares
56
Sauternes and Barsac AOC
80% Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle Cold Ciron River meets with warmer Garonne River - promoting morning mist - mist burns off by midday - afternoon sunshine Max yield 25 hl/ha (in reality much lower) Pronounced citrus peel, honey, mango, vanilla, full body, high alcohol, med (med+) acidity, sweet finish Lack of demand - dry wines also produced now Château d'Yquem
57
Alternative sweet wine appellations and their yields
``` Sainte-Croix-du-Mont AOC (40 hl/ha) Louplac AOC (40 hl/ha) Premieres Cotes de Bourdeaux AOC (45 hl/ha) ```
58
Classification of Château d'Yquem
Premier Cru Supérieur
59
1855 Classification
60 leading properties from Medoc and Graves Ranked into 5 tiers Must be bottles at the estate
60
Classification system in Graves
'The Graves classification' based on fame and quality judged by tasting 16 classified chateaux red white or both
61
Classification system in Saint-Émilion
Revised at aprox 10 yearly intervals Judged on: - their terroir - methods of production - reputation and commercial considerations - blind tasting of at least 10 vintages 4 tiers: - Premier Grand Cru Classe A - Premier Grand Cru Classe B - Grand Cru Classe - Grand Cru
62
The Crus Bourgeois du Medoc classification
Level below Cru Classe (still superior quality) - awarded annually to individual wines not to chateaux - any proporty in Medoc can apply Since 2018 3 tiers: - Crus Bourgeois Exceptionnel - Crus Bourgeois Superieur - Crus Bourgeois
63
Top quality appellation without classification system at all
Pomerol AOC
64
Problems of classification systems in Bordeaux
Controversial Grand Cru - for lowest quality Misleading Many high quality estates are not included Saint-Émilion lawsuit dented its reputation
65
Business forms in Bordeaux
Number of estates is shrinking (taken over by larger neighbours) Average size is around 17ha Annual production over 800 mil bottles Cooperatives are important (1/4 of production from 40% of growers) Majority of wine is inexpensive or mid-priced
66
What does raise price in premium bottlings
``` vine density harvest costs higher viticulture costs lower yield rigorous grape selection barrel ageing land price ```
67
La Plac de Bordeaux
Chateau - broker (courtier) - negociant - wholesaler - retailer - final customer Each party charges % for their services Chateau sells to number of negociants (allocation system)
68
French expression for broker
Courtier
69
En Primeur
Classed growths and other high quality wines Wine is sold a year to 18 months before it is bottled - spring following harvest - consumers secure hard-to-buy bottles at lower price - estate benefits from early payment Price includes transportation - it is ex-cellar - excludes any taxes that will be due in the final market
70
En Primeur procedure
April following harvest - barrel samples are provided for journalists and buyers May/June - Chateau releases prices (usually through negociant) - first tranche (to test what market is prepared to pay) - Depending on sales of first tranche, second tranche is released and price adjusted
71
Complications of allocations for negociants
Certain amount of wine negociant is allowed to buy from chateau - must buy to secure future allocations in great vintages - poor vintages may end up unsold
72
All of the top Left Bank estates are planted on gravel mounds. What are these mounds called?
croupes
73
Which hazards are there to grape growing in Bordeaux?
``` Botrytis bunch rot Frost Downy mildew Powdery mildew Hail Excessive rain ```
74
Vintages with severe frost
2017 1991 1956
75
Vintages with extreme heat
2003 | 2005
76
he tradition in Bordeaux for top quality vineyards is to plant closely spaced vines. How many vines are typically planted per hecatre?
10.000
77
Are vines in Bordeaux usually cane pruned or spur pruned?
Cane pruned
78
Match the trellising systems to the areas where they're most commonly used in Bordeaux.
Left Bank ---- Double Guyot Right Bank ------- Single Guyot Cordon trained, spur pruned is rare in Bordeaux, although some prestigious estates favour it, arguing that it reduces yields naturally and gives better aeration to the bunches.
79
Effects of excessive rain at key moments of growing season
Flowering - poor fruit set Through growing season - increased disease pressure At and following veraison - unripe fruit and fungal diseases Harvest - dilution of flavours
80
Advantages and disadvatages of high density
Advantages - suitable for relatively infertile soils - moderating vigour - best use of expensive land Disadvantages - adds cost for plats and trellising - specialist over-the-row tractors needed - more time spent on vine training, and spraying
81
What four factors determine the level of botrytis in the final sweet wines of Bordeaux?
whether conditions are correct for spread of noble rot position of estate (proximity to areas where mist forms) Willingness of estates to wait for the best times to harvest and risk loosing some crop due to adverse conditions willingness to pay several passes to select botrytis affected grapes
82
What is the name of the unique commercial system in Bordeaux?
La place de Bordeaux
83
Briefly describe why the Saint-Émilion classification has proven controversial.
2006 Lawsuits from demoted properties Use of the term “Grand Cru” for the lowest tier of the classification, which is deemed misleading by many outside the region.
84
Why is classified growth so expensive
``` Vine density Harvest costs Hugely higher viticultural costs Lower yields Rigorous grape selection Barrel ageing (both the cost of a higher proportion of new barrels and extended time in barrel). ```