Ch. 2 – Bordeaux Flashcards
Bordeaux
Bordeaux
History of Bordeaux
17th century - land unsuitable for viti was drained by Dutch residents
Bordeaux - long been centre of wine exports
- created class of merchants and brokers
- established international reputation
1855 Exposition Universelle de Paris
- classification based on price in Medoc and Graves
- 5 bands (Sauterrnes 3 bands)
- essentially unaltered till today
111,000 ha planted (70% inexpensive or mid-priced)
- 3% premium
Two rivers flowing through Bordeaux
Garonne and Dordogne which flow into Gironde
Bordeaux climate
Moderate maritime climate
- cooling influence of Atlantic
- sufficient rainfall
- relatively dry autumn
Left bank - partially protected from Atlantic by pine forests (Landes) - cooler and more marginal
- norhtern Medoc is more open to Ocean
Rainfall is variable (950mm)
- excessive rain is factor of vintage variation
- climate change - drier conditions
- fungal disease threat
Right bank - less maritime influence (still a factor)
Frost risk further from Gironde (river has moderating effect)
Climatic conditions supporting balance of wine in Bordeaux
Cooling influence of Atlantic
Gentle heat during growing season
Sufficient rainfall to promote ripening
Relatively dry autumn for steady and complete ripening
Rainfall in Bordeaux and its consequences in growing season
- excessive rain is factor of vintage variation
950mm on average
Flowering - poor fuit set Through growing season - increased disease pressure Following veraison - unripe fruit and fungal diseases Harvest - diluted flavours
Soils Left bank
and its qualities
deposits of gravel (mixed with clay, sand and minerals) and stony soils
(from floodwaters from Pyrenees and Massif Cetral)
All top estates are planted on gravel mounds (croupes)
Soil is not very deep
Drains well - roots dry out fast after rain
- in hot years can mean risk of drought stress (especially on shallow soils)
Great heat retention (releases heat at night to promote slow ripening)
More robust (less acclaimed) wines on clay pockets
Soils Right bank
Far more clay but still with significant patches of gravel
- dominated by Merlot
Limestone plateau and gravel section on borders of Pomerol
Merlot
Early budding (vulnerable to frost) Mid ripening (picked before autumn rain)
Susceptible to coulure, drought, botrytis
- sorting necessary
Can ripen fully in colder years
Dominant on Right bank and cooler northern Medoc
- waterholding capacity of clay enables it to produce large berries - higher alcohol potential
Contributes with med to pronounced intensity
- cold years: strawberry, red plum, herbaceous flavours
- hot years: cooked blackberry, black plum
Med tannins
Med to high alcohol
Cabernet Sauvignon
Late budding (protected from frost) Ripens late (needs warmer soils, vulnerable to autumn rains)
Small, thick-skinned (high tannin content)
Prone to fungal diseases
- powdery mildew
- trunk diseases Eutypa and Esca
Highest quality on warm, well-drained soils - gravel of Medoc
Contributes with violet, blackcurrant, black cherry, menthol or herbaceous flavours
med alcohol
high acidity
high tannin
Cabernet Franc (contribution to Bordeaux blend)
Contributes with:
Red fruit
high acidity
medium tanin
Malbec
mainly replanted with Merlot after frost of 1956
Petit Verdot
Buds early, ripens later than Cabernet Sauvignon
- difficult to grow in Bordeaux (but valued)
Prone to spring frost
Fails to ripen in cool years
Vulnerable to rain around harvest
Does best on warmer parts of Medoc
Often less than 5% of blend
Powerfull, deeply coloured wines
Spice notes
High tannins
Semillon
Mid-ripening
Susceptible to botrytis and noble rot in right conditions
High yields
Light intensity apple, lemon, grassy
Med body, med alcohol, med (med+ acidity)
- often softens Sauvignon Blanc’s more intense flavours and acidity
Strong affinity with vanilla and sweet spice from French oak
Botrytis affected: honey, dried fruit (lemon, peach) waxy texture
Ageability - toast, honey
(Sauvignon Blanc flavours do not evolve)
Sorting
Depends on value of wine and quality of te vintage
High quality wine
- sorted in the vineyard
- by hand on vibrating belt
- optical sorting
If vintage is good - less sorting
Harvesting/vinifying more plots
Many producers vinify plot by plot
- for optimum ripeness (different harvest times)
- creating material for blending
- requires more smaller vessels (adds cost)
Fermentation of red wine
Closed vats with pump-overs
Mostly cultured yeast
Vessels: wood, stainless, concrete (with temp control)
Temperature - depends on style and vintage
- inexpensive - mid temp (5-7 days of maceration)
- Premium - mid to warm (14-30 days of maceration)
Post-ferment maceration is reduced in poor vintages if fruit is not fully ripe
Pressing
Pneumatic press or modern hydraulic, vertical press
- gentle extraction
Winemaker decides on % of press wine (adds structure and tannin)
Size of Barrique
225l
Malolactic
in tank or barrel
Many producers go for rapid completion (cellars may be heated)
- for wines to be tasted following spring by journalists
Maturation
Simple styles
- steel, concrete or large vats
- 4-6 months
- oak chips may be added
Premium
- French oak barriques
- mix of first, second and three year old
- up to 100% new (trend is decreasing)
- usually med to med plus toasting
- 18-24 months (depending on quality)
- more concetrated wines need longer
- traditionally racked each 3 months
Blending
2 approaches:
Early (spring after harvest)
- to present wines in spring
- blending over winter
- near-final blend
- deselection of wine for second or third label and bulk to sell
Few months before bottling
- blending team can assess evolution of each variety and lot before making decision
- winemaking consultants
Muscadelle
Very prone to botrytis
Contributes with flowery, grapey notes
Not related to Muscat
Planting density
- 000 vines per hectare
- suitable for relatively infertile soils
- moderates vigour
- adds cost for plants and trellising
- special over the row tractors
- more time needed for management
- best use of expensive land
Less prestigious appellations often planted at lower density
Vine training
Cane pruning
- canes trained along wires
- Double Guyot (Left Bank)
- Single Guyot (Right Bank)
Cordon-pruned (rare)
- spur-pruned
- natural reduction of yield and aeration to bunches
Canopy management
Important to reduce incidence of downy mildew, powdery mildew and botrytis bunch rot
Leaf removal in summer
- improve aeration and deter rot
- aids ripening
‘Soft pruning’ to fight Eutypa dieback and Esca
Pruning short in winter instead of greenharvesting
- better vine balance
Average yield
50 hl/ha average
Harvest
Teams are hired for longer periods - expected paid idleness
Workers from other EU countries
Remote or high yielding sites are picked by machine
Rose winemaking
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon mainly
In the past made by bleeding off (by-product)
Now direct pressing
2 styles:
- deeper coloured Clairet
- lighter coloured rose
White winemaking
Pressed directly at arrival or left on skins (up to 24h)
Inexpensive - cold ferment in steel
Mid range - left on fine lees for 6-12 months
Higher quality
- fermented and aged in barriques (proportion new)
- many block malo
- may use batonnage
Prof. Denis Dubourdieu and Andre Lurton
- focus on Sauvignon Blanc
- skin contact
- less new oak
Viticulture for sweet wine in Bordeaux
Usually 1/3 of yield for still wines
- pruning to low levels of buds
- removal of any fruit showing disease or damage
- below 10 hl/ha is common
- max yield 25 hl/ha (Sauternes and Barsac)
- high production cost
Harvest can lst from September to November
- up to 12 passages
Level of Botrytis depends on:
Whether conditions are correct for spread of noble rot
Proximity to areas where mist forms
Willingness to wait for the best times to harvest and risk losing some fruit due to weather
Willigness to pay pickers for multiple passes
Winemaking options for sweet wine in Bordeaux
Once picked, handled as white wine
Ferment in steel, concrete or barriques
Aged for varying periods in any of those containers
Top-quality typically barrel-ferment with high proportion of new oak and barrel aged for 18-36 months
- encouraging gentle oxidation
- new oak from 30 to 50%
- Yquem 100% new oak
Less prestigious wines are often unoaked
Bordeaux generic appellations
Bordeaux AOC
- max yield white 65hl/ha Rose 62 hl/ha Red 60 hl/ha
Bordeaux Superieur AOC
- max yield 59 hl/ha for red wine
for still red, rose and white
Covers whole region
Together 50% of wine in Bordeaux
Mainly Merlot
Med intensity red fruit high acidity med+ tannins med body and alcohol Inexpensive to mid priced, acceptable to good
Left bank red wine appellations
Médoc AOC Haut-Médoc AOC Saint-Estèphe AOC Pauillac AOC Saint-Julien AOC Margaux AOC Listrac-Médoc AOC Moulis AOC
Graves appellations
Graves AOC
Pessac-Leognan AOC
Right Bank red wine appellations
Saint-Émilion AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru AOC Saint-Émilion satellites - Montagne Saint-Émilion AOC - Lussac-Saint-Émilion AOC Pomerol AOC Lalande-de-Pomerol AOC
Cotes de Bordeaux appellations
Blaye Cotes de Bordeaux Cadillac Cotes de Bordeaux Castillon Cotes de Bordeaux Francs Cotes de Bordeaux Cotes de Bourg AOC
Sweet wine appellations
Sauternes AOC Barsac AOC Sainte-Croix-du-Mont AOC Louplac AOC Premieres Cotes de Bourdeaux AOC
Médoc AOC and Haut-Médoc AOC
Left bank of Gironde
Red wine only
Max yield 55 hl/ha
Can only be sold fro mid-June after harvest
Médoc - far north end
Haut-Médoc - includes Laft Bank individual communes
- warm gravelly sites
- 50% Cebernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot
- Gironde moderating influence
- high proportion of gravel
- communes 57 hl/ha
- pronounced blackcurrant, green bell pepper, red plum, vanilla and cedar
- med to high alcohol, high tannins, med+ bodied
Wide range of prices and quality
Max yield and when can the wine be sold in:
Médoc AOC and Haut-Médoc AOC
Max yield 55 hl/ha (!57 hl/ha in communes)
Can only be sold fro mid-June after harvest
Red wine only
Expression of top Left Bank Bordeaux
Pronounced blackcurrant, green bell pepper, red plum, vanilla and cedar
Med to high alcohol, high tannins, med+ bodied
Saint-Estèphe AOC
Most northrly and coolest
More Merlot than other communes
- more clay (better water retention - dry years)
Rustic wines which need many years in bottle (cool climate) to soften tannins
No first growth
Château Montrose (2nd)
Pauillac AOC
High proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon planted (62%)
- many top estates have 70-80% of Cabernet in blend
High concentration and longevity
Most structured wine of Left Bank
High tannins, High acidity
3 first growths
(85% of classified wines)
Château Lafite Rothschild
Château Latour
Château Mouton Rothschild
Saint-Julien AOC
High proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon
High proportion of classified growth
Homogenous gravel soils
Mid-way between powerful structure of Pauillac and finesse of Margaux
No first growth but 5 second growths
Château Léoville-Las Cases (2nd)
Château Léoville-Poyferré (2nd)
Château Léoville-Barton (2nd)
Margaux AOC
high proportion of classified growth
1 first growth
Slightly less Cabernet Sauvignon
Further south - vines ripen few days earlier
- can be advantage againt autumn rains
Bit of clay - additional investment into drainage
Perfumed wines with silky tannins
Château Margaux
Château Rauzan-Ségla (2nd)
Listrac-Médoc AOC and Moulis AOC
Further from the riveer
- benefit less from moderating influence of river
- less gravel
Typically good to very good, mid priced to premium
Graves AOC
for white (max 58 hl/ha) and red (max 55 hl/ha)
Graves Superieures AOC - late picked and/or botrytis affected sweet wines
Pessac-Léognan AOC
Sub region of Graves AOC
Gravel soils and moderating effect of Garonne
- known for high quality
- also high quality barrel fermented and aged whites
One First Growth (and all Cru classee of Graves)
Reputation for best whites in Bordeaux
Max yield 54 hl/ha for both white and red
White
- Blend of SB and Semillon
- pronounced gooseberry, lemon, grapefruit, vanilla, clove
- med + body, med+ (high) acidity, med (high) alcohol
Reds are similar in style to Medoc
Château Haut-Brion
Entre-Deux-Mers AOC
White wine only
(red wine is produced but labelled Bordeaux)
max yield 65 hl/ha
acceptable to good
Saint-Émilion AOC and Saint-Émilion Grand Cru AOC
Both cover the same area
Red wine only
Saint-Émilion AOC (max yield 53 hl/ha)
Saint-Émilion Grand Cru AOC (max yield 46 hl/ha)
Dominated by Merlot (60%) and then Cabernet Franc
Has its own classification system
Wide range of quality
Best examples have pronounced black plum, vanilla, clove, full body, high alcohol, med+ (high) acidity, med +(high) tannins
Château Angélus
Château Ausone
Château Cheval Blanc
Château Pavie
Saint-Émilion Satellites
4 AOC close to Saint-Émilion but further away fro Dordogne
same rules as Saint-Émilion
Montagne-Saint-Émilion AOC
Lussac-Saint-Émilion AOC
Pomerol AOC
Red wine only (Merlot dominated - 80%)
Max yield 49 hl/ha
No classification system but many top-quality estates
- in style similar to Saint-Émilion
Small size estates - small production
Pronounced black plum, vanilla, clove, full body high acohol, med+ (high) acidity, med+ (high) tannins
Ages very well
Château Pétrus
Château L’Évangile
Côtes de Bordeaux
Red and white Right bank Number of communes can connect their name before the AOC - Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux - Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux - Casillon Côtes de Bordeaux - Francs Côtes de Bordeaux
Max yield
- red wine 55 hl/ha (52 hl/ha if commune name appears)
Côtes de Bourg AOC
- Under Côtes de Bordeaux AOC
- Merlot dominated
- similar in style and price to Medoc AOC
- Focus on Malbec with 10% of hectares
Côtes de Bourg AOC
- Under Côtes de Bordeaux AOC
- Merlot dominated
- similar in style and price to Medoc AOC
- Focus on Malbec with 10% of hectares
Sauternes and Barsac AOC
80% Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle
Cold Ciron River meets with warmer Garonne River
- promoting morning mist
- mist burns off by midday
- afternoon sunshine
Max yield 25 hl/ha (in reality much lower)
Pronounced citrus peel, honey, mango, vanilla, full body, high alcohol, med (med+) acidity, sweet finish
Lack of demand - dry wines also produced now
Château d’Yquem
Alternative sweet wine appellations and their yields
Sainte-Croix-du-Mont AOC (40 hl/ha) Louplac AOC (40 hl/ha) Premieres Cotes de Bourdeaux AOC (45 hl/ha)
Classification of Château d’Yquem
Premier Cru Supérieur
1855 Classification
60 leading properties from Medoc and Graves
Ranked into 5 tiers
Must be bottles at the estate
Classification system in Graves
‘The Graves classification’
based on fame and quality judged by tasting
16 classified chateaux red white or both
Classification system in Saint-Émilion
Revised at aprox 10 yearly intervals
Judged on:
- their terroir
- methods of production
- reputation and commercial considerations
- blind tasting of at least 10 vintages
4 tiers:
- Premier Grand Cru Classe A
- Premier Grand Cru Classe B
- Grand Cru Classe
- Grand Cru
The Crus Bourgeois du Medoc classification
Level below Cru Classe (still superior quality)
- awarded annually to individual wines not to chateaux
- any proporty in Medoc can apply
Since 2018 3 tiers:
- Crus Bourgeois Exceptionnel
- Crus Bourgeois Superieur
- Crus Bourgeois
Top quality appellation without classification system at all
Pomerol AOC
Problems of classification systems in Bordeaux
Controversial
Grand Cru - for lowest quality
Misleading
Many high quality estates are not included
Saint-Émilion lawsuit dented its reputation
Business forms in Bordeaux
Number of estates is shrinking (taken over by larger neighbours)
Average size is around 17ha
Annual production over 800 mil bottles
Cooperatives are important (1/4 of production from 40% of growers)
Majority of wine is inexpensive or mid-priced
What does raise price in premium bottlings
vine density harvest costs higher viticulture costs lower yield rigorous grape selection barrel ageing land price
La Plac de Bordeaux
Chateau - broker (courtier) - negociant - wholesaler - retailer - final customer
Each party charges % for their services
Chateau sells to number of negociants (allocation system)
French expression for broker
Courtier
En Primeur
Classed growths and other high quality wines
Wine is sold a year to 18 months before it is bottled
- spring following harvest
- consumers secure hard-to-buy bottles at lower price
- estate benefits from early payment
Price includes transportation
- it is ex-cellar - excludes any taxes that will be due in the final market
En Primeur procedure
April following harvest
- barrel samples are provided for journalists and buyers
May/June
- Chateau releases prices (usually through negociant)
- first tranche (to test what market is prepared to pay)
- Depending on sales of first tranche, second tranche is released and price adjusted
Complications of allocations for negociants
Certain amount of wine negociant is allowed to buy from chateau
- must buy to secure future allocations in great vintages
- poor vintages may end up unsold
All of the top Left Bank estates are planted on gravel mounds. What are these mounds called?
croupes
Which hazards are there to grape growing in Bordeaux?
Botrytis bunch rot Frost Downy mildew Powdery mildew Hail Excessive rain
Vintages with severe frost
2017
1991
1956
Vintages with extreme heat
2003
2005
he tradition in Bordeaux for top quality vineyards is to plant closely spaced vines. How many vines are typically planted per hecatre?
10.000
Are vines in Bordeaux usually cane pruned or spur pruned?
Cane pruned
Match the trellising systems to the areas where they’re most commonly used in Bordeaux.
Left Bank —- Double Guyot
Right Bank ——- Single Guyot
Cordon trained, spur pruned is rare in Bordeaux, although some prestigious estates favour it, arguing that it reduces yields naturally and gives better aeration to the bunches.
Effects of excessive rain at key moments of growing season
Flowering
- poor fruit set
Through growing season
- increased disease pressure
At and following veraison
- unripe fruit and fungal diseases
Harvest
- dilution of flavours
Advantages and disadvatages of high density
Advantages
- suitable for relatively infertile soils
- moderating vigour
- best use of expensive land
Disadvantages
- adds cost for plats and trellising
- specialist over-the-row tractors needed
- more time spent on vine training, and spraying
What four factors determine the level of botrytis in the final sweet wines of Bordeaux?
whether conditions are correct for spread of noble rot
position of estate (proximity to areas where mist forms)
Willingness of estates to wait for the best times to harvest and risk loosing some crop due to adverse conditions
willingness to pay several passes to select botrytis affected grapes
What is the name of the unique commercial system in Bordeaux?
La place de Bordeaux
Briefly describe why the Saint-Émilion classification has proven controversial.
2006 Lawsuits from demoted properties
Use of the term “Grand Cru” for the lowest tier of the classification, which is deemed misleading by many outside the region.
Why is classified growth so expensive
Vine density Harvest costs Hugely higher viticultural costs Lower yields Rigorous grape selection Barrel ageing (both the cost of a higher proportion of new barrels and extended time in barrel).
