Ch. 11 – Germany Flashcards

1
Q

History of German wine

A

Back to 12th century

16th century - widely exported through river Rhine

Decline in early 16th century (thirty years war) - plains planted with grains and vineyards pushed into steep slopes.

1830 new wine laws based on must weight

early 20th century - foundation of wine institutes (Hochschule Geinsenheim University and Julius Kuìhn-Institute) - wave of modernizing

19th century established reputation for world class wines followed by Phylloxera, mildew, world wars

After war - production of inexpensive wine
Flurbereinigung - program of restructuring - consolidating small vineyards and building access roads

1971 modern German wine law - establishing geographical labeling and classification of styles based on must weight.

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2
Q

Flurbereinigung

A

Program of restructuring

Consolidating small vineyards and building access roads

Making easier mechanization and reducing costs

Without which viticulture would not be financialy viable.

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3
Q

Climate

A

49-50 degrees North (excluding Baden)

Cool continental climate

Site selection is essential - along river Rhine and tributaries (radiating heat, moderating temperature, extending growing season)

Warm but wet summers (500-800mm most fall in summer) -risk of fungal diseases, dilution of grapes, storms, hail

Long, dry autumns - long ripening periods to accumulate sugar. Morning mists along river ideal for Botrytis

Mountain ranges - Taunus and Haardt - shelter vineyards from cold winds and worst of rain.

Vineyards planted in relatively low altitudes around 200m

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4
Q

Effect of proximity to Rhine

A

Radiating heat

Moderating temperature

Extending growing season

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5
Q

Location of best vineyards

A

Steep south-facing slopes (to maximum sun exposure)

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6
Q

Climate of Baden

A

Noticeably drier, warmer and sunnier

Spring frost can be concern in cold areas

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7
Q

Soils

A

Wide variety - plays important role in ripening

Mosel and Ahr - dark coloured slate retains heat during the day and radiates back at night

Calcaire pockets in Baden, Pfalz, Rheinhessen (planted with Pinot Noir, Weissburgunder and Chardonnay)

Franken calcaire - Silvaner
Franken clay - Grauburgunder

Erosion is major problem (adding cost)

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8
Q

Vineyard management

A

Considerable vintage variation (grapes can fail to fully ripen)

High maximum yields

Ripeness was improved by better clonal selection, summer pruning, green harvesting and selective hand harvesting

Canopy management is essential - maximising sun exposure and improve air circulation.

Single or double replacement cane pruned with VSP and Pendelbogen (canes arched at trellis - improved flow of sap - improved yields)

Difficult or impossible mechanisation (increased labour)

Not well suited to organic viticulture (only 8% certified)

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9
Q

Common pruning and trellising

A

Single or double replacement cane pruned with VSP and Pendelbogen (canes arched at trellis - improved flow of sap - increased number of buds and improved yields)

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10
Q

Steps taken to improve ripeness

A

Better clonal selection

Summer pruning

Green harvesting

Selective hand harvesting

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11
Q

Proportion of white/black grapes

A

in 1980 - 90% of grapes were white

2017- 39% black 61% white

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12
Q

Does grape variety need to be mentioned on label?

A

No, but usually they are

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13
Q

German crosses

A

To cope with cool climate

Muller-Thurgau - ripens earlier than Riesling

Scheurebe - full bodied wines with intense grapefruit and peach aroma. High acidity (possible for ageworthy wines)

Kerner - quality wines with high acidity and fruity floral notes of Riesling

Dornfelder

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14
Q

German Riesling

A

23% of all plantings

Winterhardy, late budding, relatively frost resistant.

Late ripening (needs good sun exposure and dry autumns)

May not fully ripen in cool years

High quality wide range of wines

High acidity even when fully ripe

Significant ageing potential

Can produce high natural levels of sugar and is susceptible to Botrytis

Pronounced intensity, great aromatic complexity

Green to tropical aromas, floral (white flowers, honeysuckle.

With age - toast, honey, petrol aromas

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15
Q

Muller-Thurgau

A

Also Rivaner

Ripens earlier than Riesling

Can produce high yields in any almost conditions

used in inexpensive blands such as Liebfraumilch

Lower acidity than Riesling (medium), less structure, simple floral and fruity aromas for early drinking

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16
Q

Spatburgunder

A

German most planted black variety 11.5%

Warmer areas such as Baden

Increasingly recognised as high quality, complex wine often with barrel ageing

Whole bunch ferment sometimes used

Less new oak tendencies

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17
Q

Dornfelder

A

Most significant black German cross

Second most planted black variety

Deep colour, high acidity, fruity and floral aromas

2 styles - one fruity simple with residual sugar and complex ageworthy style with focus on tannin and structure, fermented or aged in oak.

Mostly Rheinhessen and Pfalz

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18
Q

Silvaner

A

spelled Sylvaner in Alsace

Lower in acidity and aromas than Riesling

Large amounts of simple wines with fruity aromas (green to tropical)

Where yields are controlled (Franken) can produce high quality dry, med bodied wine with med (+) acidity and disctinctive earthy characteristics.

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19
Q

Grauburgunder

A

Rheinhessen, Pfalz and Baden

some aged in oak

likes heavier soils

medium acidity, stone fruit aroma, tropical fruit and honey
Med bodied dry style to full bodied sweeter (often labeled Rulander)

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20
Q

Weissburgunder

A

Rheinhessen, Pfalz and Baden

med + acidity delicate citrus and stone fruit aroma

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21
Q

Chardonnay

A

allowed since 1990

plantings are low

Warmer areas such as Pfalz and Baden

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22
Q

Other grapes

A

Portugieser

Schwartzriesling (Pinot Meunier)

Trollinger (Schiava)

Lemberger (Blaufrankisch)

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23
Q

Vessels for production of wine

A

Traditionally produced in large old oak (Central European oak)

  • 1000L Fuder (Mosel)
  • 1200L Stück (oval shaped)

Stainless is becoming norm now

New oak is rarely used for Riesling, but proportion is used for Grau, Weissburg and Chardonnay

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24
Q

Sussreserve

A

unfermented or partialy-fermented grape must to sweeten the wine

Must be produced from grapes from the same region and same quality level as the wine produced

It is common for sussreserve to come from the same must as the wine where it is added

Added to dry wine before bottling

Minimal or no alcohol - lowers the final alcohol level

Thought to produce less balanced wines

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25
Options for sweetening wine
Sussreserve RCGM (only for Deutscher Wein) Stopping fermentation by adding SO2, filtereng or rackling Fermentation for Beerenauslese, Eiswein or TBA usually stops itself because of high sugar level around 5-8% Sweetness was often used to cover unbalanced acidity or underipe grapes
26
Winemaking progress and adjustments
Significant advance in knowhow and technology Lot of experimentation with Grau and Weissburg. with lees and oak, natural ferm. Enrichment is common practice (BUT not allowed for Pradikatswein) Zone A up to 3% (Baden zone B up to 2%) De-acidification permitted (as well as acidification)
27
Production of inexpensive red wines
Often termovinification to extract colour and flavour Fermented off skins to produce low tannin wine
28
Production of premium Pinot Noir
Cold maceration, whole bunch fermentation, maturation in oak
29
Proportion of rose production
11% sold mostly domesticaly
30
Creation of German wine law
1971
31
General German wine law
Increasing must weight with few rules regarding growing and winemaking Deutscher Wein Landwein Qualitatswein Pradikatswein
32
Deutscher Wein
Without geographical indication Exclusively from grapes from Germany Alcohol must be between 8.5 and 15% Any style Enrichment is permitted Only tiny proportion of German wine production
33
Landwein
equivalent to PGI At least 85% of grapes has to come from the region on label Alcohol between 8.5% - 15% In most regions only Trocken and Halbtrocken style allowed Enrichment is permitted Only tiny proportion of annual production
34
Qualitatswein
PDO category Grapes come exclusively from one of 13 wine regions (Anbaugebiete) - name must appear on label All styles allowed Minimum alcohol 7% (to allow sweeter styles) No maximum alcohol Enrichment is permitted Must undergo laboratory test and blind tasting before release. Those who pass are given AP number (amtliche Prufungsnummer) which must appear on label (when and where tasted, lot number, location of vineyard)
35
Anbaugebiete
13 PDO regions in germany
36
Amtliche Prufungsnummer
Appears on label of Qualitatswein Mandatory lab test and blind tasting before release Indicates when and where tasted wine was tasted, lot number, location of vineyard
37
Pradikatswein
PDO category but with stringent rules Grapes must come from one of the 40 Bereich (wine producing districts smaller than Asbaugebiete) which number does NOT need to appear on label However name of Anbaugebiete must appear on label Wines with highest must weight Enrichment is not permitted Any grape variety but mainly associated with Riesling About half of the production of Qualitatswein Strongly depends on vintage ``` Six levels of Pradikatswein ('distinction') Kabinett Spatlese Auslese Beerenauslese Eiswein Trockenbeerenauslese ```
38
Kabinett
light in body, highest in acidity dry to medium sweet with residual sugar can have alcohol as low as 7% dry wines reach 12% Green and citrus aroma
39
Spatlese
Usually picked 2 weeks after Kabinett Greater concentration of ripe fruit flavour (stonefruit for Riesling) Slightly higher alcohol and fuller body dry to medium sweet Minimum alcohol is 7%
40
Auslese
Made from specialy-selected extra-ripe bunches of grapes Hand harvesting is not compulsory Honey characteristics, some grapes may be affected by Botrytis Can be dry, but usually sweeter in style with balance of sweetness and acidity which gives potential for long term ageing Alcohol can be as low as 7%
41
Beerenauslese (BA)
Individually selected berries - must be harvested by hand Always sweet Slow fermentation reaching low alcohol levels (min. 5.5%) Berries do not have to be affected by botrytis but it is very common Very ripe and dried stone fruits Only produced in years suitable for noble rot to form Yields are very low Rare and expensive
42
Eiswein
Minimum must weight same as BA Grapes must be picked frozen at temperature -7degrees any time between November and February (Vintage given by year where harvest started) Grapes must be pressed while still frozen, artificial freezing is not permitted Pressing releases small quantities of juice high in sugar and acid Grapes must be very healthy Some grapes are usually lost due to disease or predators High acidity, concentrated, peach, grapefruit flavours
43
Trockenbeerenauslese
Grapes must be affected by botrytis (very high must weight) Highly concentrated, extremely sweet wines, balanced by high acidity Long and slow fermentation often below 8% abv Extremely low yields, only in suitable years, some of the most expensive wines of Germany
44
Terms indicating sweetness
Trocken - no more than 4g/l (up to 9g/l where RS does not exceed total acidity by more than 2g/l) Halbrocken - between 4 and 12g/l (up to 18g/l where RS does not exceed total acidity by more than 10g/l) Lieblich - between 12 and 45g/l RS Suss - more than 45g/l Does not correspond to how dry or sweet the wine tastes
45
Feinherb
'Fine dry' used instead of halbtrocken halbtrocken got out of fashion
46
Goldkapsel
designates wines which are affected by Botrytis
47
Einzellagen
Individual vineyard site average of 38ha Sometimes several owners Name can only be used on Qualitatswein and Pradikatswein
48
German name for individual vineyards site
Einzellagen average of 38ha Sometimes several owners Name can only be used on Qualitatswein and Pradikatswein
49
German name for wine producing districts
Bereich
50
Collective vineyard site german name
Grosslagen
51
Grosslagen
Collective vineyard site usually between 600ha to 1800ha and including several Einzellagen Name can only be used on Qualitatswein and Pradikatswein
52
Labelling of vineyard names
Only for Name can only be used on Qualitatswein and Pradikatswein Village name + vineyard name Piesporter Goldtropfchen (Pietsport village) 'er' belonging to... Name of village can be skipped if it is very well known State Rheinland-Pfalz (Ahr, Mosel, Nahe, Pfalz, Rheinhessen) can add individual plots within vineyard site to the name of Bereich
53
Liebfraumilch
medium white wine of Qualitatswein level ith at lease 18g/l RS. Must contain at least 70% of Riesling, SIlvaner, Muller-Thurgau and Kerner Grapes must come from one of four regions (Rheinhessen, Pfalz, Nahe, Rheingau
54
Verband Deutscher Pradikatsweinguter (VDP)
Founded in 1910 - group of producers who wanted to promote wines without enrichment (at the time naturweine) Around 200 members (identified by the VDP logo which must appear on the capsule) only 5% of production. Stricter regulations for growing and winemaking including lower yields, higher minimum must weight and growing predominantly traditional grape varieties to their region Audited every 5 years Encouraging Sustainable viticulture Pradikatswein is used only for wine with RD other wines must be labeld Qualitatswein Introduced four-tier vineyard classification system
55
VDP vineyard classification system
VDP Gutswein - regional wines, max. yield 75hl/ha VDP Ortswein - village wines, produced from grape varieties typical to region, max. yield 75hl/ha VDP Erste Lage - 'first class' equivalent to premier cru, excellent quality wines with ageing potential, more growing and winemaking conditions apply, Only selected varieties for each region, max. yield 60hl/ha, grapes must be harvested by hand and ripe enough to qualify at least for Spatlese. Must be vinified by 'traditional winemaking techniques' and carry village and vineyard name on the label. VDP Grosse Lage - equivalent to Grand Cru. max yield 50hl/ha, Permitted varieties differ dependent on Anbaugebiete (Riesling in all, Spatburgunder in all but Nahe and Mosel) Dry white wine cannot be released until 1st September year following harvest. Red wines 12mths in oak and released after 1st September after that. Sweeter Pradikatswein may be released 1st May following harvest. Dry wines are designated Grosses Gewachts (only GG can appear on label) Only vineyard name appears on label not the village.
56
max yield for gutswein and ortswein
75hl/ha
57
max yield for Erste Lage
60hl/ha
58
Conditions for VDP Erste Lage
'first class' equivalent to premier cru, excellent quality wines with ageing potential, more growing and winemaking conditions apply, Only selected varieties for each region, max. yield 60hl/ha, grapes must be harvested by hand and ripe enough to qualify at least for Spatlese. Must be vinified by 'traditional winemaking techniques' village and vineyard name must be on the label.
59
Conditions for VDP Grosse Lage
Equivalent to Grand Cru Best parcels in the best vineyards Outstanding quality and long ageing potential max yield 50hl/ha, Permitted varieties differ dependent on Anbaugebiete (Riesling in all, Spatburgunder in all but Nahe and Mosel) Dry white wine cannot be released until 1st September year following harvest. Red wines 12mths in oak and released after 1st September after that. Sweeter Pradikatswein may be released 1st May following harvest. Dry wines are designated Grosses Gewachts (only GG can appear on label) Only vineyard name appears on label not the village.
60
The Rheingau Charta
1984 to promote dry wines from best vineyards of Rheingau Erste Gewachst status for the best vineyards in Rheingau and now it is legaly protected term Only Riesling or Spatburgunder Must be hand harvested from loy yielding vineyards Dry wines with must to classify at least to spatlese in 1999 joined VDP and growers who used Erste Gewachst now label wines GG
61
Climate in Rheinhessen
Warm and dry Shaltered by mountains - Hunsruck and Taunus Warm fertile valley floors (good for Liebfraumilch)
62
Rheinhessen grape varieties
Dominated by white wine Riesling, Muller-Thurgau, Silvaner, Grauburgunder, Weissburgunder, Dornfelder, Spatburgunder Bulk production dominates
63
Quality producing area in Rheinhassen
Rheinterrasse Steep sloping vineyards with east exposure - maximising sunshine Moderating influence from Rhine - long ripening season RIesling - ripe lemon and peach 'Roter Hang' Rotliegenden soil (iron rich - slate clay, sandstone) - Smoky Rieslings 'Wonnegau' south - Riesling and Spatburgunder (Weingut Keller and Weingut Gunderloch)
64
Pfalz terroir
Haardt Mountains (rain-shadow as in Vosges in Alsace) from west, Rhine from east Driest German region - drought is concern not centered around river
65
Pfalz grape varieties
dominated by white RIesling Muller-Thurgau, Grauburgunder, Weissburgunder Spatburgunder Fuller body than Rheinhessen and more ripe fruit
66
Renowed vineyards in Pfalz
'Mittelhaardt' northern part, south-east facing slopes - maximum sunshine and protection from winds - ripe full bodied Riesling. Wide variety of soils. 'Sudliche Weinstrasse' more fertile sandstone soils - inexpensive production in past, now great Spatburgunder, Grauburgunder and Weissburgunder. Producers: Dr. Burklin-Wolf and co-operative Winzerverein Deidesheim
67
Baden terroir
Split into multiple bereiche East to Rhine, opposit of Alsace benefits from rain shadow of Vosges. Relatively south latitude - sunniest, warmest, driest region
68
Grape varieties in Baden
Known for reds Spatburgunder (often oak aged, variety of styles thanks to variety of soils and microclimates) Around Kaiserstuhl (volcano) - fullest expressions, smoky, complex Cooler sites such as 'Ortenau' 'Tuniberg' 'Breisgau' more acidity and delicate fruit 60% plantings are white high volume of inexpensive Muller-Thurgau Developing reputation for good Grauburgunder, Weissburgunder and Chardonnay (often in oak) 75% of co-operatives (ex. Badischer Winzerkeller) Bernhard-Huber
69
Wurttemberg
Mainly light fruity reds Dominated by local co-op (Moglingen) warm summer temperature- ideal for red (70%) Spatburgunder, Trollinger, Lemberger, Schwartzriesling, Riesling Producers: Rainer Schnaitmann co-op: Wurttembergische Weingartner
70
Mosel terroir
Very notherly - site selection is very important Steep south-facing vineyards - best sun exposure, sunshine reflected from the river. Dark coloured slate soil - radiating heat Slate soins in variety of colours - grey, blue, brown, red Labour intensive
71
Grapes in Mosel
90% white | 60% Riesling
72
Sections in Mosel
Upper Mosel, Middle Mosel, Lower Mosel Middle - largest and best vineyards (village:vineyard) - Brauneberg (Juffer, Juffer-Sonnenuhr) - Erden (Treppchen, Pralat) - Graach (Himmelreich, Domprobst) - Urzig (Wurzgarten) - Wehlen (Sonnernuhr) - Bernkastel (Doctor) - Piesport (Goldtropfchen) co-op: Moselland (also source of grapes for Blue Nun) Producers: Ergon Muller, Markus Molitor
73
Mosel Riesling
Paler in colour, lighter in body, lower alcohol, higher acidity Pronounced floral and green fruit aroma Balance of acidity and flavour intensity for great potential to ageing. Strong reputation for sweeter styles Almost always cold enough to produce Eiswein
74
Franken terroir
W-shape around river Main the most continental climate of Germany - warmer summers but shorter growing season with coller autumns and hars winters Spring frost is particularly problem
75
Grapes in Franken
majority of white grapes Drier styles traditionally produced Muller-Thurgau, Silvaner, Riesling (relatively small proportion) Silvaner - most celebrated and distinctive, given the best sites around Wurzburg Spatburgunder (on steep sandstone terraces) - Weingut Rudolf Furst other: Horst Sauer
76
Silvaner
Verìy expressive in Franken Early budding, early ripening, Susceptible to spring frost Likes chalky soils Dry wines with floral and wet stone aromas
77
Bocksbeutel
Flat, round shaped bottle with short neck typical for Franken
78
Nahe terroir
relatively small number of vineyards on large area wide variety of soils and microclimates. Protected by Honsruck Mountains - mild temperatures and low rainfall Slopes can be as steep as in Mosel Slate and sandstone
79
Nahe grape varieties
predominantly white 30% Riesling - lower levels of acidity, but riper fruit, more body than Mosel but less than Rheingau Inexpensive Muller Thurgau on fertile gentle slopes. Grauburgunder, Weissburgunder Dornfelder, Spatburgunder Weingut Donnhof and Emrich-Schonleber
80
Rheinhau terroir
small but highly prestigious, some of Germany's highest quality and age worthy Rieslings Protected from cold northerly winds by Taunus Mountains South facing aspect - fuller bodied Rieslings than Mosel High humidity ideal for noble rot Soils - sand, loam, loess in east, Sandstone and slate in west
81
Best vineyards in Rheingau
focus on quality Around Geisenheim, Rudesheim, Johanisberg and Erbach Mid-slope - best sites Moderating influence from river
82
Grapes in Rheingau
Dominate white grapes 78% Riesling alone majority in dry style but also reputed for botrytised sweet wines at the western end Spatburgunder is key grape (Steep south, south-west facing Holenberg vineyard is renowed for full bodied Pinot Noir Schloss Johannisberg, Schloss Vollrads Dominated by small producers
83
Ahr
Very notherly but dominated by black varieties (83%) River Ahr cuts narrow sheltered valley with steep south facing slopes and soil is dominated by heat retaining back slate and greywacke (dark sandstone) Traditionally late harvested with RS (declined) Spatburgunder, dry, relatively high tannins, spice, barrel aged Dominated by co-ops. Jean Stodden Mayschoss (world's oldest co-op)
84
Wine business in Germany
Steep slopes - high cost, low yields, vintage variation - wines command high prices but still unsustainable for some producers Number of growers is declining Size of estates varies Co-operatives are very strong (30%) Domestic market is very important (fourth largest consumer in the world, also strong importer) Small export but growing value USA, Netherlands, Norway, UK, China Riesling weeks (German Wine Institute)
85
promotional Platform for Riesling growers under 35
Generation Riesling 2005 by German Wine Institute
86
German merchants
Weinkellerei
87
Weinkellerei
german merchants who buy grapes from growers
88
Rheingau vineyards such as Schloss Johannisberg and Kloster Eberbach are planted.
12th century
89
Wine industry goes into decline because of the Thirty Years War. The vineyards on flatter plains were taken over by agriculture.
Early 16th century
90
New wine laws are introduced, based on the must weight of grapes, a principle which dominates German wine law to this day.
1830s
91
Germany becomes unified, so states can begin to trade amongst each other.
1871
92
Some of Germany's wine institutes are founded e.g. Hochschule Geisenheim University in Rheingau and the Julius Kühn-Institut in Pfalz.
Late 19th early 20th century
93
Inexpensive, medium-sweet wines labelled as Liebfraumilch account for 60% of all German exports.
Late 20th century
94
Size of Stuck
1200L
95
Size of Fuder
1000L
96
Wurttemberg's largest cooperative
Moglingen