Beach Profiles Flashcards

1
Q

Name the 3 sections of a beach profile

A
  • Nearshore; zone below low tide influenced by wave action
  • Foreshore; zone between high and low tide
  • Backshore; beach above high tide
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2
Q

Why do sand beaches have a gentle profile (beach angle of less than 5%)?

A

Small particle size results in low surface area as sediment is compacted resulting in strong backwash

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3
Q

Name the 5 main landforms on a beach profile

A
  • Ridge and runnel
  • Ripples
  • Cusp
  • Berm
  • Storm beach
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4
Q

Give a description, location and explanation of ridges and runnels

A

Description: Depositional landform with raised bank of sand and trough forming runnel
Location: Lower foreshore
Explanation: Strong backwash with low gradient causes sand to be transported and deposited back at base of foreshore

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5
Q

Give a description, location and explanation of ripples

A

Description: Small ridges
Location: Lower beach at base of foreshore
Explanation: Repeated orbital movement of water in the waves

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6
Q

Give a description, location and explanation of cusps

A

Description: Temporary semi-circular depression
Location: Form in foreshore where gradient begins to steepen
Explanation: Repeated action of swash scours out dept Dion and circular shape form strong backwash accelerating erosion from centre

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7
Q

Give a description, location and explanation of berms

A

Description: Ridges of deposited material
Location: Back of foreshore
Explanation: Formed by deposition from top of swash during high tide

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8
Q

Give a description, location and explanation of storm beaches

A

Description: Ridge of larger sediment and material
Location: Rear of backshore near cliff line
Explanation: Thrown by swash during extreme condition and is above level of high spring tides

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