Beach Profiles Flashcards
Name the 3 sections of a beach profile
- Nearshore; zone below low tide influenced by wave action
- Foreshore; zone between high and low tide
- Backshore; beach above high tide
Why do sand beaches have a gentle profile (beach angle of less than 5%)?
Small particle size results in low surface area as sediment is compacted resulting in strong backwash
Name the 5 main landforms on a beach profile
- Ridge and runnel
- Ripples
- Cusp
- Berm
- Storm beach
Give a description, location and explanation of ridges and runnels
Description: Depositional landform with raised bank of sand and trough forming runnel
Location: Lower foreshore
Explanation: Strong backwash with low gradient causes sand to be transported and deposited back at base of foreshore
Give a description, location and explanation of ripples
Description: Small ridges
Location: Lower beach at base of foreshore
Explanation: Repeated orbital movement of water in the waves
Give a description, location and explanation of cusps
Description: Temporary semi-circular depression
Location: Form in foreshore where gradient begins to steepen
Explanation: Repeated action of swash scours out dept Dion and circular shape form strong backwash accelerating erosion from centre
Give a description, location and explanation of berms
Description: Ridges of deposited material
Location: Back of foreshore
Explanation: Formed by deposition from top of swash during high tide
Give a description, location and explanation of storm beaches
Description: Ridge of larger sediment and material
Location: Rear of backshore near cliff line
Explanation: Thrown by swash during extreme condition and is above level of high spring tides
