ASA 106 Syllabus Requirements Flashcards

1
Q

Describe theory of true and apparent winds

A

I’m ok on this

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2
Q

Describe theory of sailing using force diagrams. Graphically find the Center of Effort and Center of Resistance.

A

Find COE of each sail, then COE between those. CLR is built in to boat design. Ideally, CE is forward of the CLR to create that 3 degree weather helm.

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3
Q

Describe with aid of diagrams the causes of lee and weather helm and methods to correct them. Include reasons for preferred weather helm, sail selection, mast position and mast rake

A

Weather helm - CAUSES: CE too far aft , CLR too far forward; main over trimmed, jib under trimmed; boat healing over too far, asymmetry of the hull; FIXES: mainsail traveller down, easing sheet to spill air, unrake the mast, unrake the mast, crew and other weight on board to windward and aft Lee helm - CAUSES: CE too far forward, CLR too far aft. mast raked too far forward, capped leach on the jib or to far inboard, main untrimmed, FIX: more power in mainsail, rake the mast, adjust jib cars back to increase jib twist/spill,move weight on boat forward

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4
Q

Describe sail shapes and sail interactions for different wind conditions and points of sail. Describe the effects on sail shape and interaction when adjusting the following (luff tension, leech line, backstay tension, mainsteet, outhaul, boomvang, jib fairleads, traveller, downhaul, cunningham, jib sheet tension

A
  • mainsheet trimming – angle of attack, twist decrease, tighting leech, watch cupping as it impedes airflow and adds weather helm
  • luff tension increase - larger more fuller draft
  • leach line increase - stop fluttering but cupping
  • backstay tension increase – fuller draft
  • outhaul tensioning - pulls mainsail foot aft, flatter sail, impacts bottom 1/3rd of sail
  • boom vang tensioning - pulls down on boom, reduces twist, particularly used on reaches and runs; set so boom parallel to deck, with 5-10% twist above
  • traveller – narrowing angle of attach, no change to twist, improves pointing ability, increases weather helm
  • downhaul -
  • cunningham - stretches mainsail or jib’s luff to change fore-aft position of highest camber; tighter more forward
  • jib sheet tension - tightens jib foot and leech
  • jib fairleads – move forward pulls down more to tighten leech, pulls horizontally less so deeper foot
  • topping lift – supports boom when main is lowered
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5
Q

Identify how to use a barometer and thermometer either singly or together to assist in weather predicting

A
  • If barometer rises or falls quickly, prepare for increasing winds. Head to harbor. Change of 1 millibar (0.03 inches) per 3 hours, substantial change. Change of 1 millibar per 1 hour, dangerous “bomb” conditions imminent.
  • In general, lower the barometric pressure, the worse the weather. The faster it falls, the higher the wind.
  • Great chart on 131 of Rousmaniere
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6
Q

Describe cirrus, cirrostratus, altocumulus, stratocumulus, cumulonimbus and cumulus clouds and the weather to be expected from each

A

Other 106 deck

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7
Q

Describe local weather in relation to thermal winds and prevailing winds

A
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8
Q

Describe three sources of weather for US yachtsmen

A

NOAA online; VHF radio; SSB radio; local weater reports

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9
Q

Describe the proper selection of sails on a given boat for all weather conditions and give reasons for selection made

A

Wind strength current and expected

Likely points of sail

Light winds lighter sails; prep a pole

Full sails versus stay sails / reefed sails

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10
Q

Describe appropriate boat precautions when expecting heaving weather

A
  • Cabin ready? - stow everything, particularly heavy and sharp things; lockers locked; stove fuel; tools, tape, flashlight, and light line at the ready; food ready for length of storm;
  • Water tightness ready? – bilge checked emptied; hatches and portlights secured; secocks & valves; companionway/washboards closed and latched;
  • Navigator ready? – barometer reading; current position; risks ahead; plan; back-up plan; log book up-to-date; radio/comms ready; running lights proper
  • On deck ready? – everything secured; jack lines in-place;lines recoiled to ensure run free; lazerettes locked; manual bilge handle secured; winch handles secured; double check all fittings, cleats, jammers, etc.; check chafe points
  • Sails ready? – smaller sails; reefed sails; tight sails; traveller position
  • Emergency ready? – emergency equipment, raft, ditch bag, MOB all secured but readily accessible;
  • People ready? – clothing; PDFs; harnesses; roles; schedule;
  • Special equipment ready? – drogues; sea anchors;
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11
Q

What’s the difference between a drogue and a sea anchor? How attach a drogue to the boat? When using a droque, ahead-of-time consideration should be given to….

A
  • Drogue – to slow DOWN the boat down when running; on a bridle so can be adjusted to pull more on one side of the boat or the other; how going to retrieve the drogue, given large pressures on it
  • Sea anchor – used when hove-to to slow down drift; keep bow into the wind or current; larger than a drogue, as meant to STOP boat, not slow it;
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12
Q

Describe forereaching vs. heaving-to vs. lying ahull

A
  • Heaving-to – sail on close reach; back-winding the jib (a small one, not genoa), put up trysail or heavily reefed main; adjust helm to create slow scalloped motion and fix in that position;
  • Forereaching – sail close hauled under reefed mainsail alone; mainsail not luffing when helm is centered; Slow speed upwind scalloping up and down off wind. No jib used. Less leeway
  • Lying ahull – no sails, no drogues, no anchor.. just drifting… risk is boat turning broadside to a wave
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13
Q

Describe the methods of rafting att anchor and the possible problems with day and night rafting

A
  1. Center boat drops biggest anchor and extends more rode than usual, at max one or two other boats raft
  2. Boats tie up alongside, using fenders and full set of bow, stern, and spring lines to keep boats from sliding fore and aft, and to keep spreaders/masts from tangling if boats roll in sway
  3. Problems: Trickier in high winds; Must be prepared to unraft very quickly if dragging; have to like your neighbors; fenders must be strong

Why not use multiple anchors?

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14
Q

How does one anchor when sailing solo?

A
  1. Heave-to before entering anchorage
  2. Lead the rode properly through the chock; cleat off rode with enough distance to do the following
  3. Carry anchor aft outside the lifelines/stanchions to the cockpit
  4. When found spot, drop anchor from the cockpit and then back down on it, testing hold.
  5. Adjust rode.
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15
Q

Describe how to prevent the tender/dinghy from riding up and bumping the vessel’s hull while anchored at night

A

??

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16
Q

Describe step by step how to secure a boat overnight with one anchor and stem made fast to the shore or dock

A
  1. Understand anchorage in advance - depth, currents, dangers, shores
  2. Prepare anchor in advance – ensure easy to release; inspect shackles; rode is free running; rode uplimately cleated; run rode over windlass with brake on; crew directions;
  3. Approach slowly and scope out available spots, noting other boats, wind conditions, bottom conditions, lee shores.
  4. Noting other boats – big ones, lay to the wind, smaller ones to the current; best to anchor in proximity and similarly spaced as comparable boats already there; note angle of their rode into water – vertical, long; sharper - shorter
  5. Approach upwind if possible. Drop and then back down.
    1. If downwind, then drop and drift, boat will spin
  6. Drop two anchors by sailing an arc with desired lie at the midpoint, backing down after the second one. Need lots of rode out on the first one to place second one, but once done, less overall rode needed.
    1. Or drop two, bow and aft connected. The first one dropped should be opposite to boats general direction to settle. 4:1 scope ultimately, but 8:1 when dropping the first.
  7. Alternatively, drop an anchor then back into a wharf alongside other boats. Board and leave boat by planks.
  8. Clean up the deck; attach snubber line.
  9. Adjust lights; running lights off; masthead 360 or hang a white light from headstay; one black ball there in daytime.
  10. Set GPS and alarm; take visual bearings or transits
  11. Leave anchorage and coast charts open on nav table.
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17
Q

Swinging radius formula

A

length of boat + sq. root of [rode length^2 + (depth + freeboard)^2]

essentially the length of the boat + distance over ground of from anchor to bow

Above using a2 + b2 = c2

18
Q

How to weigh anchor (normal)

A
  1. Remove snubber line; make deck clear
  2. Power boat forward, collecting rode as you go.
  3. Stop boat when rode is vertical.
  4. Cleat road / lock brake.
  5. Power forward in direction opposite of how flukes are dug in (think back to how it was dropped backed down when achoring;
  6. Feel anchor break free and the bow bobbing
  7. Retrieve and try to clean anchor (if needed) before bringing aboard. Caution not to have anchor bang the gelcoat
    8.
19
Q

Describe two ways of using two anchors

A
  1. Sail an arc between two points, dropping an anchor at each one.
  2. After backing down on second one, adjust rodes to lie amidst them. Rode of 4:1 instead of 7:1 ok.
  3. Drop two anchors, fore and aft. Drop first one away from the direction the boat will move or drift. Let out 8:1 rode. Drop second one, then back down toward the first until front and back both have 4:1 rodes.
    1. WAIT – one of these lines has to be 7:1 to hold. So maybe let out 11:1 rode on the first, drop second then back down to a mix of 7:1 and 4:1
  4. Drop one anchor then take a line ashore to achor a second line to a dock, piling, tree, etc.
20
Q

Describe four ways to retrieve a fouled anchor

A
  1. Use pre-set buoy and trip line
  2. Power away from the diretion the flukes set
  3. Use boat hook, grapnel, or weighted line try and move the obstruction, lift an overlying cable, etc.
  4. Dive to it
21
Q

When and how to use a trip line and buoy

A

When – some expectation of a stuck anchor – “rky” botton, area of cables, old anchors, et.

How, tie a trip line at the crown of the anchor so line will pull in the directino of the flukes. Tie buoy at point of line each to depth so that it floats over the anchor.

When ready to retrive, may have to disconnect rode from boat and float it off separately. You want shank lying flat on bottom, reducing any resistance.

Then use trip line to pull away from the diretion the flukes set.

22
Q

Describe when and how to set an anchor watch and the responsibilities of such a watch

A
  1. Ensure GPS set to thousands of min and alarm is set (if available). Record GPS position. Could record Not to Exceed values – allowing for swing, etc.
  2. Determine bearings, transits, other markers of position
  3. Check weather for changes in wind, current, conditions
  4. Based on that, plan anchor watch interval
  5. Set alarm

Responsibilities

  1. Determine if position secure, reset alarm
  2. If position not secure
    1. Determine severity of situation
    2. Wake others if severe; alert other boat(s) if severe
    3. If not severe, plan out actions first, wake when needed
      1. More rode
      2. Second / third anchor
      3. Re-anchor
      4. Leave
    4. Ensure doing safely, particularly when alone – PDFs, harnesses if needed
23
Q

If coming alongside another boat, approach from the _____ side while both boats moving ahead slowly, and try to have the two boats’ _______ meet before the bow.

A

leeward; quarters

24
Q

Describe how to perpare a towing bridle

A

A line between two strong points on rear of boat.

Long enough to distribute load of two line.

Tow line fastened to the middle of the bridle.

All lines clear of anything on deck (stanchions, etc.)

KEEP LINES AWAY FROM PROPELLERS

25
Q

Describe how to pass a tow line

A

Pass a tow line as you would any dock line rope, splitting the coil into two hands, the non-tossing hand open to allow uncoiling, the other coil thrown.

BE MINDFUL OF PROPELLERS

Potentially use polypopylene line as a feeder line to then pull across a heavier line line the rode

26
Q

Describe how to get underway and what speeds to use

A
  1. Establish hand signals. Ahead slow, ahead, stop, reverse, reverse slow
  2. If pulling off grounding, move crew or weight to most favorable position to help.
  3. If pulling off grounding, consider a kedge anchor or another line to heel the boat.
  4. Be careful of reverse direction or anything else that might harm the rudder.
  5. Everyone out of the way of a snapping line. On both boats!
  6. Slowly draw lines taught. Check lines.
  7. Begin tow. May need rocking if coming off grounding.
  8. Slow speed until moving.
  9. Higher speeds at limitation of boat being towed.
  10. Lengthen line between boats as speed increases.
27
Q

Describe how to avoid fouling the rudder while towing

A
  1. Use polypropylene lines
  2. Keep lines held snug between boats before actually towing
  3. Slowly let out line as boats move apart slowly
  4. Stay out of the direction of potential line breakage
28
Q

Describe how to make proper lookout arrangements

A

One or two crew always designated as lookout.

Doesn’t have to be helmsman.

Assign most conscientious crew to this job

Remember the Titanic…

29
Q

Question to ask if offered a tow

A
  1. Are you a tow service? If yes, then how much do you charge?

If no, ask if they have experience towing?

30
Q

Tow preparation considerations

A
  1. Consider strongest line (maybe rode)
  2. Small boat, attach to a keel stepped mast (never to a deck-stepped)
  3. Larger boat, attach to the mast or strong through hull cleat at bow
  4. Wrap excess line around strongest cockpit winch a few times and tighten to offset load about to be pulled forward on the cleat or mast
  5. Pass through a chock or fairlead, using protection against chafe.
  6. Contact towwer on VHF, explain need, condition of boat, max speed under tow
  7. Ensure towwer is using a bridle
31
Q

Why is it important to remain aboard during a tow?

A

To avoid claims of a salvage ownership

32
Q

List from memory the visual distress signals from USCG publications

A

Orange only in the day; Red either in the day or night

three red self-propelled rocket flares or pistol-projected

three handheld red flares

three floating orange smoke (white is merely a location marker, not distress)

three handheld orange smoke

strobes, electric light, flashlight

orange flag with black square and circle

33
Q

How should boat be handled?

A
  1. Ensure everyone ok. Don emergency equipment, Jacklines, Harnesses.
  2. Keep any aspect of broken spar from further harming the hull or boat. Temporary fenders, etc.
  3. Get it back on board (better option), or
    1. Cut it lose (lines, sails, shackles, turnbuckles) then let it sink
    2. # 1 a better options as you may need all those parts in a jerry-rigged ride home, it takes longer to cut it lose, doing so may require hanging overboard
  4. Begin thinking of jerry rigged approach
    1. Creatively use remaining sails to get some seaway
      2.
34
Q

What to do when shroud breaks

A
  1. IMMEDIATELY depower ALL sails.
  2. Remove all stresses from the side of the mast which broke.
  3. Move broken side to leeward side of the boat
  4. Consider using a halyard to take up side pressure, potentially running it through the end of the spreader now empty. Tighten very hard.
  5. Nurse the boat along using jerry-rigged approach
35
Q

What should be done when water doesn’t flow out of exhaust

A
  1. Stop engine immediately
  2. Check thru-hull in right position
  3. Check raw-water strainer
  4. Check nothing under boat blocking in-flow
  5. Check water pump operational; impeller ok
  6. Bypass thermostat?
36
Q

What to do when engine fails in an crowded anchorage

A
  1. Determine dangerous areas, channels, wind direction
  2. Hoist some sail to give leeway
  3. Someone on the boathook
37
Q

What to do when engine fails in busy channel

A

1.

38
Q

State fuel capacity and impacts on range

A

Argo II ~28 gallons

Impacts on the range

  1. Amount of engine use / start/stop impact / needed for charging when not moving
  2. Engine tuning / health
  3. RPMs when in use; not over “best” for optimal speed forward
  4. Wind, waves and current vs. general course planned
  5. Motorsailing or not
  6. Differential weight aboard likely a small impact
39
Q

What is water tank capacity and allowance for water use each day

A

Argo II 85 gallons

Allowance:

  1. Consumption 1/2 gallon per day (in normal temperatures) per person
  2. 5 gallons per day for showers, cleaning, cooking (is this per person?)

10 day trip, four people:

Consumption = 10*4*1/2 = 20 gallons

Daily usage = 5*10 = 20 gallons

Total = 70 gallons

40
Q

Describe different flags and uses

A
  1. National flag – The Ensign (two choices in US –> national flag or yacht ensign)
    1. The horizontal measurement being 1” for each 1’ of boat length
    2. 8 a.m. to sunset with three exceptions
      1. Not flown on a sailing boat
      2. Out-of-sight of other boats
      3. Also flown at night when entering or leaving a port
  2. The Burgee – yacht club or sailing organization, usually at top of mast
  3. Private flag – of meaning to the owner
  4. Yellow quarantine flag – flown in foreign waters pre-pratique
  5. Courtesy flag – host country only flow post-pratique
41
Q

List the documents required and procedures when entering/leaving US waters

A
  1. Documentation
    1. Boat hull numbers + certificate + registration
    2. Passports / visas of those aboard
    3. Clearances for pets
    4. Exit paperwork from last place visited
    5. (Placard aboard on oil and waste management)
    6. (Navigation rules aboard)
  2. Procedures
    1. Review cruising guide for points of contact
    2. Contact harbor or dock officials for anchorage
    3. Fly Q flag on starboard spreader
    4. Take documents and cash ashore in a water tight holder
      1. Either just captain or entire crew goes
    5. Check in with dock master then proceed to customs/immigration
      1. No other activities before that
    6. Replace Q flag with Courtesy flag