ASA 106 Syllabus Requirements Flashcards
Describe theory of true and apparent winds
I’m ok on this
Describe theory of sailing using force diagrams. Graphically find the Center of Effort and Center of Resistance.
Find COE of each sail, then COE between those. CLR is built in to boat design. Ideally, CE is forward of the CLR to create that 3 degree weather helm.
Describe with aid of diagrams the causes of lee and weather helm and methods to correct them. Include reasons for preferred weather helm, sail selection, mast position and mast rake
Weather helm - CAUSES: CE too far aft , CLR too far forward; main over trimmed, jib under trimmed; boat healing over too far, asymmetry of the hull; FIXES: mainsail traveller down, easing sheet to spill air, unrake the mast, unrake the mast, crew and other weight on board to windward and aft Lee helm - CAUSES: CE too far forward, CLR too far aft. mast raked too far forward, capped leach on the jib or to far inboard, main untrimmed, FIX: more power in mainsail, rake the mast, adjust jib cars back to increase jib twist/spill,move weight on boat forward
Describe sail shapes and sail interactions for different wind conditions and points of sail. Describe the effects on sail shape and interaction when adjusting the following (luff tension, leech line, backstay tension, mainsteet, outhaul, boomvang, jib fairleads, traveller, downhaul, cunningham, jib sheet tension
- mainsheet trimming – angle of attack, twist decrease, tighting leech, watch cupping as it impedes airflow and adds weather helm
- luff tension increase - larger more fuller draft
- leach line increase - stop fluttering but cupping
- backstay tension increase – fuller draft
- outhaul tensioning - pulls mainsail foot aft, flatter sail, impacts bottom 1/3rd of sail
- boom vang tensioning - pulls down on boom, reduces twist, particularly used on reaches and runs; set so boom parallel to deck, with 5-10% twist above
- traveller – narrowing angle of attach, no change to twist, improves pointing ability, increases weather helm
- downhaul -
- cunningham - stretches mainsail or jib’s luff to change fore-aft position of highest camber; tighter more forward
- jib sheet tension - tightens jib foot and leech
- jib fairleads – move forward pulls down more to tighten leech, pulls horizontally less so deeper foot
- topping lift – supports boom when main is lowered
Identify how to use a barometer and thermometer either singly or together to assist in weather predicting
- If barometer rises or falls quickly, prepare for increasing winds. Head to harbor. Change of 1 millibar (0.03 inches) per 3 hours, substantial change. Change of 1 millibar per 1 hour, dangerous “bomb” conditions imminent.
- In general, lower the barometric pressure, the worse the weather. The faster it falls, the higher the wind.
- Great chart on 131 of Rousmaniere
Describe cirrus, cirrostratus, altocumulus, stratocumulus, cumulonimbus and cumulus clouds and the weather to be expected from each
Other 106 deck
Describe local weather in relation to thermal winds and prevailing winds
Describe three sources of weather for US yachtsmen
NOAA online; VHF radio; SSB radio; local weater reports
Describe the proper selection of sails on a given boat for all weather conditions and give reasons for selection made
Wind strength current and expected
Likely points of sail
Light winds lighter sails; prep a pole
Full sails versus stay sails / reefed sails
Describe appropriate boat precautions when expecting heaving weather
- Cabin ready? - stow everything, particularly heavy and sharp things; lockers locked; stove fuel; tools, tape, flashlight, and light line at the ready; food ready for length of storm;
- Water tightness ready? – bilge checked emptied; hatches and portlights secured; secocks & valves; companionway/washboards closed and latched;
- Navigator ready? – barometer reading; current position; risks ahead; plan; back-up plan; log book up-to-date; radio/comms ready; running lights proper
- On deck ready? – everything secured; jack lines in-place;lines recoiled to ensure run free; lazerettes locked; manual bilge handle secured; winch handles secured; double check all fittings, cleats, jammers, etc.; check chafe points
- Sails ready? – smaller sails; reefed sails; tight sails; traveller position
- Emergency ready? – emergency equipment, raft, ditch bag, MOB all secured but readily accessible;
- People ready? – clothing; PDFs; harnesses; roles; schedule;
- Special equipment ready? – drogues; sea anchors;
What’s the difference between a drogue and a sea anchor? How attach a drogue to the boat? When using a droque, ahead-of-time consideration should be given to….
- Drogue – to slow DOWN the boat down when running; on a bridle so can be adjusted to pull more on one side of the boat or the other; how going to retrieve the drogue, given large pressures on it
- Sea anchor – used when hove-to to slow down drift; keep bow into the wind or current; larger than a drogue, as meant to STOP boat, not slow it;
Describe forereaching vs. heaving-to vs. lying ahull
- Heaving-to – sail on close reach; back-winding the jib (a small one, not genoa), put up trysail or heavily reefed main; adjust helm to create slow scalloped motion and fix in that position;
- Forereaching – sail close hauled under reefed mainsail alone; mainsail not luffing when helm is centered; Slow speed upwind scalloping up and down off wind. No jib used. Less leeway
- Lying ahull – no sails, no drogues, no anchor.. just drifting… risk is boat turning broadside to a wave
Describe the methods of rafting att anchor and the possible problems with day and night rafting
- Center boat drops biggest anchor and extends more rode than usual, at max one or two other boats raft
- Boats tie up alongside, using fenders and full set of bow, stern, and spring lines to keep boats from sliding fore and aft, and to keep spreaders/masts from tangling if boats roll in sway
- Problems: Trickier in high winds; Must be prepared to unraft very quickly if dragging; have to like your neighbors; fenders must be strong
Why not use multiple anchors?
How does one anchor when sailing solo?
- Heave-to before entering anchorage
- Lead the rode properly through the chock; cleat off rode with enough distance to do the following
- Carry anchor aft outside the lifelines/stanchions to the cockpit
- When found spot, drop anchor from the cockpit and then back down on it, testing hold.
- Adjust rode.
Describe how to prevent the tender/dinghy from riding up and bumping the vessel’s hull while anchored at night
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Describe step by step how to secure a boat overnight with one anchor and stem made fast to the shore or dock
- Understand anchorage in advance - depth, currents, dangers, shores
- Prepare anchor in advance – ensure easy to release; inspect shackles; rode is free running; rode uplimately cleated; run rode over windlass with brake on; crew directions;
- Approach slowly and scope out available spots, noting other boats, wind conditions, bottom conditions, lee shores.
- Noting other boats – big ones, lay to the wind, smaller ones to the current; best to anchor in proximity and similarly spaced as comparable boats already there; note angle of their rode into water – vertical, long; sharper - shorter
- Approach upwind if possible. Drop and then back down.
- If downwind, then drop and drift, boat will spin
- Drop two anchors by sailing an arc with desired lie at the midpoint, backing down after the second one. Need lots of rode out on the first one to place second one, but once done, less overall rode needed.
- Or drop two, bow and aft connected. The first one dropped should be opposite to boats general direction to settle. 4:1 scope ultimately, but 8:1 when dropping the first.
- Alternatively, drop an anchor then back into a wharf alongside other boats. Board and leave boat by planks.
- Clean up the deck; attach snubber line.
- Adjust lights; running lights off; masthead 360 or hang a white light from headstay; one black ball there in daytime.
- Set GPS and alarm; take visual bearings or transits
- Leave anchorage and coast charts open on nav table.