21.hair Coloring Flashcards
Diameter
Determined hair texture in an individual strand of hair
High porosity
Cuticle is lifted allowing the hair to take the color quickly
Hair color levels
Arranged on a scale of 1 to 10
Hair color tones
Described as warm cool or neutral
Natural
Warm tones that are described as sandy or tan
Blue
Helps balance orange tones in the hair
Primary colors
Pure or fundamental colors that cannot be created by combining other colors
Blue
Strongest and only cool primary color
Lighter
Caused by adding red to blue based colors
Tertiary color
Achieved by mixing a secondary color and its neighboring primary color
Color theory
When all 3 primary colors are present in equal proportions, the resulting color is black or dark muddy gray depending on the saturation of the pigment
Complimentary colors
A primary and secondary color positioned directly opposite each other on the color wheel
Temporary haircolor pigment molecules
Do not penetrate the cuticle layer because they have large pigment molecules
Traditional semi permanent haircolor
Only lasts 4 to 6 weeks depending on how frequently the hair is shampooed
Demipermanent haircolor
Type of hair color that is formulated to deposit but not lighten color
Permanent hair color
Type of hair color lightens and deposits color at the same time in a single process because Becuase It is more alkaline than demipermanent color and is usually mixed with a higher volume developer
Maximum lift
In one step color service 40 volume peroxide is recommended
Decolorizing process
Natural hair can go through as many as 10 stages
Overlapping color
Can cause breakage and can create a line of demarcation
Hair lighteners
3 different forms are oil, powder and cream
Weaving
Selecting strands are picked up from a narrow section of hair with a zig zag motion of the comb and lightened or the color is applied only to these strands
Blond shade
Hair color is generally flattering for clients with 80 to 100% gray hair
Salt and pepper hair
To cover, the color formulation should be one or two levels darker than the natural level
Pre-softening
The process of treating gray or very resistant hair to allow for better penetration of color
Lightener retouch
New growth must be lightened first
Three
Primary colors must be present to produce a hair color that looks natural
Double process blonding
The best way to obtain pale blond results
Violet hair
Recommended that you use yellow to balance it
Blue hair
Recommended that you use orange to balance it
Warm base color
Creates brighter colors
Demipermanent hair color
Deposits but does not lift
Hair color consultation
Look at the customer directly
Toners
Traditional semi permanent, demipermanent and permanent hair color products that are used primarily on pre-lightened hair to achieve pale and delicate colors
Patch test
You should use the same color that will be used for the haircolor service
A greater degree of porosity
Is hair that has previously received a color service
A greater degree of porosity
Is hair that has previously received a color service
Under lightened hair
Will appear to have more red, yellow or orange than the intended color
Cortex
The layer of hair that gives the hair the majority of its strength and electricity
Pheomelanin
The melanin the gives blond and red colors to hair
Activators
The powdered persulfate salts added to the haircolor to increase its lightening ability
Soap cap
Technique that refers to a combination of equal parts of a prepared permanent color mixture and shampoo used during the last five mins of a hair color service and worked through to refresh the ends
Contributing pigment
Refers to varying degrees of warmth exposed during permanent color or lightening process
Reverse high lightening
Technique of coloring strands of hair darker than the natural color
Level
The unit of measure used to identify the lightness or darkness of a color
Patch test
Identified a possible allergy in a client
Lightened
A chemical compound that lightens hair by dispersing, dissolving and decolonizing the natural hair pigment
Volume
Measures the concentration and the strength of hydrogen peroxide
Natural haircolor
Colors obtained from the leaves or bark of plants
Glaze
A non ammonia color that adds shine and tone to the hair
Resistant
Means it is difficult for moisture or chemicals to penetrate hair
Conditioner filler
Used to recondition damaged overly porous hair and equalize porosity so that the hair accepts the color evenly from stand and from scalp to ends
Hydrogen peroxide developer
Is an oxidizing agent that when mixed with oxidation haircolor, supplies the necessary oxygen gas to develop the color molecules and create a change in natural haircolor
Color filler
Is used to equalize porosity and deposit color in one application to provide uniform contributing pigment on pre-lightened hair
Slicing
Is a process that involves taking narrow 1/8 in (0.3 cm) section of the hair by making a straight part in the scalp, positioning the hair over the foul and applying lightening or color
The law of color
System for understanding color relationships
Virgin application
Refers to the first time the hair is colored
Eumelanin
Is a melanin that blends black and brown colors
An off the scalp lightener
Also known as a quick lightener is a powdered lightener
Progressive haircolors
Contains metal salts that change hair color gradually by progressive buildup and exposure to air, creating a dull metallic appearance
Strand test
A test performed to determine how the hair will react to color formula and how long the formula should be left on the hair
Color wheel
Your most valuable tool identified natural levels for a haircolor service
Red
A medium primary color
Semipermanent haircolor
Color that adds subtle color results
To raise the cuticle of the hair
Is an alkalizing ingredient in permanent haircolor
Natural haircolor
Also know as henna
20 volume
Standard hydrogen peroxide volume
A legally binding contract
Is not considered to be a release statement
Deposit color
Also known as semi permanent
Cap technique
Involves pulling clean dry strands of hair through a perforated cap with a thin plastic or metal hook
Non oxidative toner
Contains no ammonia, requires no developer and is gentle in the hair and scalp
Highlighting shampoos
Known as colors prepared by combining permanent haircolor, hydrogen peroxide and shampoo
Color penetration
Is when coating compounds such as hair sprays, styling agents and alms conditioners interfere in hair color
Oxidize and fade
Can’t be caused by daily shampooing, blowdrying, and a permanent wave or a few days in a pool
Creamy
An application of lightener as part of a double process hair coloring, consistence provides best control
