21 - Portugal Flashcards

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1
Q

How has Portugal’s turbulent history influenced its wine industry today?

A

Alliance with England cemented long trading relationship esp. Fondness for Port in UK

Civil War damaged industry in c19th - loss of productive capacity and market

Phylloxera destroyed many vineyards in 1867 - permanently damaging many regions

Salazar’s 40-year rule 1930-70s → prioritised co-ops, quantity production, tarnished reputation

EU accession in 1986 - increase competition for co-ops, access to capital for new winemakers, improvement in viti and vini and better quality

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2
Q

Describe the growing conditions throughout Portugal with reference to different regions.

A

Climate

Maritime with more continental climates inland e.g. Vinho Verde is moderate maritime, Douro is warm and continental

Rainfall varies based on proximity to coast e.g. Baixo Corgo gets 900mm, Douro Superieur gets 450mm

Southerly regions are warmed and drier e.g. Tejo has a Mediterranean climate

Topography

Mountain ranges limit maritime influence inland e.g. Serra do Marão rises to 1400m

South is flatter with plains and hills

Soils

Schist and granite are common in mountainous regions e.g. VV, Douro, Dao and some parts of Alentejo

Varied soils in the south including clay and limestone and sand in Bairrada, Lisboa, Tejo and Península de Setúbal

Alluvial soils in Tejo

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3
Q

What has happened to the area under vine in Portugal? (3)

A

Reduced by 30% - currently 190,000ha → mainly high yielding vineyards in Tejo and VV

Some replanting with HQ vines but limited to avoid surpluses

Alentejo has seen area under vine grow due to warm, sunny climate and flat landscape → ideal for ripe, soft style for domestic and export markets + lots of money for investment esp. in large estates

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4
Q

Outline the main viticultural hazards experience in Portugal (6)

A
  1. Drought esp. Inland and in south Douro, Dão, Alentejo
  2. Hail and storms
  3. Wildfires e.g. Dao is 2017
  4. Untimely rain in regions like VV can create problems with fruit set, fungal disease
  5. Trunk disease e.g. esca
  6. Grapevine moths
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5
Q

While most vineyards are cordon/RCP with VSP, there is a significant number of bush vines found where? How are these used to make wine?

A

Old bush vines in Douro and Alentejo in particular - often co-planted and picked as field blends

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6
Q

To what extent is irrigation permitted?

A

Generally allowed but only to enable ripening, not to boost yields

Growers in Douro must notify Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e Porto (IVDP) when they irrigate

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7
Q

To what extent is organic viticulture practised?

A

Widely practised but as few as 500 growers are certified due to cost

Warm, dry climate esp. Inland suits itself to this method

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8
Q

To what extent are native and int’l varieties planted in Portugal? How has this changed?

A

Of top 12 planted varieties, 11 are native with Syrah #10

Plantings on int’l varities more popular in south esp. Lisboa, Alentejo, Tejo → movement back to natives esp. from small, quality focused producers

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9
Q

How has EU-related investment improved winemaking in Portugal? Are there any traditional winemaking techniques that are still used? Are there any new wave practices being adopted?

A

Modern innovation

Destemming machines have improved tannin mngt

French oak barrels for maturation - also has improved tannin mngt, use has become more subtle in with int’l trends

Traditional techniques

Use of large format (3,000-5,000L) Portugese oak - still popular in Bairrada

Foot treading using Lagares made from local stone or stainless steel

New wave

Amphora for reds and whites e.g. DOC Vinho de Talha in Alentejo

Pre-ferment skin contact (cold soak) for premium whites w/ some interest in fermentation on skin

Natural wine e.g. Filipa Pato

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10
Q

Briefly outline the PDO/PGI system in Portugal.

A

Denominação de Origem Protegida (DOP) 31 in all with grape growing/winemaking restrictions and official tasting

Vinho Regional (VR) 14 in all, allowing int’l varieties and less strict on viti/vini

Vinho all others

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11
Q

To what extent has Portugal been successful in exporting its wines? What opportunities exist to promote its wines further? (3)

A

Fairly successful - 12th largest producer but 9th largest exporter with growth in both volume and value for unfortified wine across past 20yrs

  • Very successful brands e.g. Mateurs and Lancers rosé
  • Strong soft brands e.g. Vinho Verde
  • Historical ties with UK, largest export market

Opportunities

  1. Improved quality due to investment and increased viti/vini integration
  2. Wines of Portugal Trade body est. 2010
  3. Increased tourism to establish first contact with consumers
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12
Q

How does the climate(s) of Vinho Verde influence viticulture and the style of wine produced?

A

Up to 1500mm of rainfall → rot and mildew

  1. Modern vineyards use RCP with VSP or lyre, trained high for circulation, summer pruning to thin canopy, some vineyards use traditional tree training
  2. Significant VV esp. in yield e.g. 25% reduction in 2018
  3. Mainly white varities planted 70% of production
  4. Mid-ripening Loureiro is most widely planted → mid-ripening so avoids worst of harvest rains
  5. Early picking resulting in low ABV wines

Warmer, drier in Baião → late ripening varieties e.g. Avesso → full body with citrus and stone fruit

Poor soils e.g. grant bedrock with thin decompomsed granite is well drained and poor in nutrients → supports large training system like Lyre → prevents overly vegetative growth

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13
Q

Describe how summer pruning is performed (3).

A
  1. Remove lateral shoots - non-fruit bearing
  2. Remove leafs - can be done mechanically
  3. Green harvesting - removing bunches before veraison to moderate yield
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14
Q

Name and briefly describe the five main grapes that go into white Vinho Verde.

A
  1. Loureiro mid-ripening; med(+) acid; citrus, pear, floral, herbal
  2. Alvarinho high quality with growing plantings; med(+)-high acid and some body; citrus, peach, tropical
  3. Pederna (Arinto) mid-ripening; neutral
  4. Avesso late-ripening, lower in acid/fuller in body; citrus and stone fruit
  5. Trajadura low in acid, apple and peach
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15
Q

Describe the winemaking for white Vinho Verde and the style of wine produced.

A

Majority of production is inexpensive, high-vol made from blend of grapes sourced from across region.

Protective with cool ferment in SST, bottled soon after ferment and CO2 may be added for spritz.

Some RS may be retained for balance

Apple, citrus, peach

Min of 8% ABV with med(+) to high acid

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16
Q

Describe how winemaking and regulations differ for higher quality Vinho Verde (4).

A

May be labelled with sub region e.g. Monção e Melgaço

May be made from single variety esp. Alvarinho

Min 11.5% ABV

May use ambient yeast, old oak fermentation and maturation with lees ageing

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17
Q

Describe red Vinho Verde.

A

14% of production - made from Vinhão - deep colour with cherries and high acid

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18
Q

Describe the production structure of Vinho Verde.

A

Very fragmented - average holding 1/10th ha → co-ops and negociants dominate e.g. Soalheiro

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19
Q

Where is VV sold?

A

35% exported with German, US, Brazil and France top export markets

20
Q

Can VV be a rosé style?

A

Oh yeah - 5% of prodution. Potential new style?

21
Q

What are the challenges of growing grapes in the Douro? (3)

A

1. Drought/heat can cause hydric stress and/or overripeness esp. in the free-draining schist soils and in hotter, drier east

2. Soil erosion on steep slopes –> terraces but expensive to maintain

3. Lack of skilled labour

22
Q

Under what circumstances is irrigation permitted in the Douro? What factor mitigates the dry conditions and free-draining soil?

A

If hydric stress threatens ripeness e.g. quality –> this is less strict than previous, producer need only inform the IVDP

Schist bedrock has vertical cracks for roots to bury deep

23
Q

Which grapes are commonly used in the production of red wines in Douro? What does each contribute?

A

Blends are common

Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional both retain acid and have ripe (not jammy) black fruits

- Franca gives med body and alcohol

- Nacional mid-ripening, deep colour and high tannin with floral notes

Sousão prized for its high acid

Tinta Roriz an early-ripening variety that yields well but liable to water stress, contributes body and colour

24
Q

Which grapes are commonly used in the Douro for white wine? What does each contribute?

A

Viosinho floral, stone fruit, low acid, full body

Rabigato floral, citrus, high acid

Gouveio (Godello) citrus, stone fruit, med(+) acid

Moscatel Galego Branco grape, floral, well-suited to heat

25
Q

Why are blends so popular in the Douro?

A

Allows for producers to control for extreme growing conditions by varying aspect, altitude and sub-region

26
Q

Reds account for 70% of unfortified wine production

How do producers in the Douro manage the tannin levels from grapes like Touriga Nacional? (5)

A
  1. Grapes are destemmed
  2. Relatively cool fermentation temps 24-28c mean extraction slower and more easily controlled
  3. Some use lagares where tannin can be carefully monitored
  4. Post ferment maceration only for top quality wines destined for further maturation
  5. Maturation in large, old oak or small, new oak
27
Q

Almost all Port houses make unfortified wine. Many can be premium or super-premium in price. What aspects of viti and vini would you associate with these wines? (4)

A

1. Old vines i.e. vinhas velhas

2. Field blends promotes compexity and often old vines

3. Post ferment maceration

4. Extended ageing in oak either large or small

28
Q

Outline trends in the production of unfortified Douro wine. Who produces inexpensive and premium wine?

A

Significant growth accounting for 40% of production by vol

Inexpensive wines made by region’s co-ops via co-ops

Premium via Port houses e.g. Niepoort

29
Q

Why is the cost of grapes for unfortified wines lower than for fortified wines?

A

Prices determined by the market for Douro DOC whereas port grapes are regulated by beneficio system

30
Q

Dao is located to the south of VV and the Douro and inland. Describe the growing environment (6).

A

Mediterranean climate, protected from cool Maritime weather by mountains on all sides

Rainfall high between 1600m in west and 1100m in east

Eucalyptus forests influence style of wine

Most vineyards planted at altitude ~450m but can be much higher

Soils are granite based and free draining

Some vineyards are bushed trained

31
Q

Most wine production in Dao are red blends including Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz. Which other two grapes are also widely blended and what do they bring?

Compare Douro and Dao reds.

A

Jaen (Mencia) raspberry, blackberry flavours with moderate acid

Alfrocheiro strawberry, blackberry with medium tannin and body

Both these tend to soften TN and TR which have more tannin and deep colour

Overall, Dao reds are fresher and lighter bodied than Douro

32
Q

How has oak maturation in Dao evolved? (3)

A

Astringent red wines required extended maturation

Careful tannin management means less ageing required

New oak is more common today although return to old oak

33
Q

What is Encruzado? Describe the wine that it produces.

A

A grape for HQ white wine in Dao with lemon, peach and floral, med-med(+) acid and full body

Made protectively or with oxygen exposure, lees stirring and ageable etc.

Sometimes blended with Malvasia, Bical, Cercial

Good - outstanding quality

34
Q

How is the production structure of Dao evolving? (2)

A

Most land held by small growers - 90% less than 0.5ha –> production dominated by co-op Sogrape

Change in legislation forced by EU has enabled the growth of quality-focused merchants and estates

35
Q

How does the growing environment of Bairrada differ/compare from Dao? (3)

A

Close to coast

Rainfall much the same as Dao ~1000mm –> mainly falls in spring or autumn (why an issue for Baga?)

Soils are alluvial in west with limestone-clay in south

36
Q

Baga is Bairrada’s signature grape variety. Describe its ripening and how it yields - what challenges do these present?

Where are the best examples planted?

Describe the style of wine produced.

How may some styles be labelled and what does this indicate?

A

Late ripening which makes it vulnerable to autumn rain

Productive so inspid when grown on alluvial soils

Best examples are on warm, relatively infertile soils

  • planted on clay + limestone in Cantanhede
  • soils pebbles and rocks which reflect heat
  • south west slopes protected from northerly winds

Style Cranberry, cherry, plum with high acid and tannin, med body

Labelling Baga Classico >50% Baga with other Portugese black grapes

37
Q

How has the winemaking approach to Baga changed over time?

A

Cheap grown at high yields, high acid useful for rosé e.g. Mateus

Traditional fermented on stems with extended old oak maturation to soften tannin e.g. toneis Portugese/Brazilian wood

Modern destemmed but with some wholebunch or stems for fruity character / tanninic structure, mix of vessels from SST and lagares for fermentation and usually large oak for maturation (500-600), sometimes foudres

38
Q

White wines in Bairrada are made from a blend of Maria Gomes, Bical, Arinto and Cercial. Briefly describe each variety.

What soil types are inexpensive and HQ grapes usually grown on respectively?

Maria Gomes and Bical are both early-ripening, why is this useful in Bairrada?

A

Maria Gomes early ripener and yields well, med(+) acid, citrus, floral

Bical early ripener, med(+) acid, peach and tropical fruit

Arinto and Cercial both have apple, citrus and add acid to blends

Inexpensive wine grown on sandy soil, HQ wine grown on limestone-clay

Bairrada damp climate means greater risk of disruption to flowering and fruit set, early ripening extends growing season if this is delayed

39
Q

Which other varieties may be grown and blended with Baga in Bairraida?

A

Local varieties like Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro

Int’l varieties like Cab and Merlot –> used to add body and soften tannin

40
Q

Why do producers like Luis Pato / Filipa Pato label their wines as VR despite making wine eligible for the Baiarrada DOC?

A

They objected to the inclusion of int’l varieties so label as Beira Atalntico VR

41
Q

Describe the size, situation and growing environment of the Alentejo.

A

Size large 23,000ha inc DOC and VR Alentejano,

Climate Med with inlands experiencing extreme temps

Topography vaires as Alentejo is 8 non-contiguous areas including Poralegre that is 800m and located in north –> distinctly cooler; many plains and gentle slopes

Rainfall varies from 800mm in north - 500mm in south –> irrigation widely used

Soils various - schist, granite and limestone from sand to clay

42
Q

Briefly describe notable styles of wine, including the grapes commonly used, produced in Alentejo.

A
  1. Red blends from Aragonez (Tinta Roriz), Alicante Bouschet and Trincadeira

Aragonez early ripening so harvest early

Alicante Bouschet adds colour, acid tannin and red and black fruit

Trincadeira high yields, rot, med acid/tannin and black berry and spice

Int’l varieties may also be added esp. Syrah

Wines are in all styles from inexpensive - premium

  1. White blends from Roupeiro, Arinto and int’l like Chardonnay and Viognier in range of quality and styles

Roupeiro rot, retains acid, citrus and stone which go with age

Arinto retains acid

3. Antao Vaz drought tolerant, made in range of styles from early-harvest to late-harvest with tropical fruit and oak and talha with skin contact, may also be blended with above –> can lack acid in warmest regions

43
Q

How important is the Alentejo to Portugese wine sales and exports?

Is production growing or shrinking?

A

Largest region for sales ~40% of domestic market, 20% of exports

Rising - unlike in other regions

44
Q

Why is Alentejo suited to the production of high vol wine?

What else has helped the region grow?

A

Flat topography and plains –> mechanisation

High sunshine + dry summer –> reliable ripening, low disease pressure

Proximity to Lisbon and other products e.g. olive oil, Iberian ham

45
Q

Describe the growing conditions of Lisboa VR and the style of wines it produces.

A

Large area 18,000ha split into two by mountain range

Western side maritime with winds

Eastern side protected, riper wines

Reds Touriga Nacional

46
Q

Which regions in Portugal have the best potential for export growth?

A

Douro ~30% exported, well-established brands and distribution channels

Dao small <20% exported, increase in HQ production and distinctive grape Encruzado

47
Q
A