1.2 Flashcards
1
Q
What are the properties of constructive waves?
A
- low height
- large wavelength
- 6-8 waves per minute
2
Q
What are the properties of destructive waves?
A
- tall
- short wavelength
- 13-15 per minute
3
Q
What is the gradient of sand beaches usually?
A
- Large
- due to lack of percolation
- means that backwash is stronger
- more material removed
4
Q
What is the gradient of shingle beaches usually?
A
- Shallow
- water percolates through rocks
- backwash is weaker
- less material taken away
5
Q
How is sediment distributed along a beach?
A
- Larger material at back
- Smaller at front
- Coarser at back
- Finer at front
Pattern is translated further down (forward) the beach if destructive dominated
6
Q
How does the placement of the ridge vary between constructive and deconstructive waves?
A
- ridge is further up beach for constructive waves
- ridge is further offshore for destructive waves
7
Q
What are swell waves?
A
- Waves observed during a windless period
- remnants of previous waves
8
Q
How do waves vary over a day?
A
- plunging waves may become swell waves
- tides change
9
Q
How do waves vary over seasons?
A
- Summer is dominated by constructive
- Winter by destructive
