10.1 Wave types and their Characteristics

Question 1

How are waves formed?

Answer 1

➢ By the wind blowing over the sea

Question 2

What is the fetch?

Answer 2

➢ The distance the wind blows across the water

Question 3

What are the steps when the waves reach the coast?

Answer 3

➢ The prevailing winds blow over the water to form circular orbits in open water
➢ Friction with the seabed distorts the circular orbit motions
➢ As the water becomes shallower the crest of the wave rises and becomes more elliptical
➢ Then it eventually breaks and collapses onto the beach

Question 4

What is swash?

Answer 4

➢ The water that rushes up the beach

Question 5

What is backwash?

Answer 5

➢ The water that flows back towards the sea is called the backwash

Question 6

What are the features of constructive waves?

Answer 6

➢ Low waves with wave crests far apart
➢ Gentle sloping wavefront
➢ Strong wash and a weak backwash
➢ Constructs the beach by depositing large amounts of sand and pebbles
➢ Breaking waves gently spill forwards