Week 8 Flashcards
Rate at which a fashion moves through the fashion cycle
Fashion Movement
Affected by what the product is, economic and social factors, advertising, etc
Fashion Movement
apparel/garments move the quickest; average of 10 weeks in cycle
Fashion Movement
Perfumes and handbags move the slowest; have a longer fashion cycle, which is why many designers opt for them.
Fashion Movement
Product can last up to 2 years or if becomes a classic, lasts even longer
Fashion Movement
6 different phases/stages of the fashion cycle: discovery, promotion, labeling, dissemination, loss of exclusiveness, displacement
Fashion Process/Fashion as a Process (Meyersohn and Katz)
Fashion cycle is bell curve; fashion process is cliff-like
Fashion Process/Fashion as a Process (Meyersohn and Katz)
Discovery
Fashion Process/Fashion as a Process (Meyersohn and Katz)
Promotion
Fashion Process/Fashion as a Process (Meyersohn and Katz)
Labeling- it’s not enough to discover and promote it, people need to know who wears it, how it’s worn, when, why, etc
Fashion Process/Fashion as a Process (Meyersohn and Katz)
Dissemination- How it is made available to consumers. Where can you buy it, how is it sold? Fashion brands have large control over this aspect.
Fashion Process/Fashion as a Process (Meyersohn and Katz)
Displacement
Fashion Process/Fashion as a Process (Meyersohn and Katz)
No role for decline/disappearance of fashion in this pattern
Fashion Roles (Everett Rogers, 1983)
Innovators
Fashion Roles (Everett Rogers, 1983)
Opinion Leaders
Fashion Roles (Everett Rogers, 1983)
Early Adopters
Fashion Roles (Everett Rogers, 1983)
Late Adopters
Fashion Roles (Everett Rogers, 1983)
Traditional model for fashion diffusion
Trickle-down model
Fashion in this model originates from a few fashion centres; clientele in this theory are wealthy, urban, women who are socialites who can display their exclusive fashion
Trickle-down model
Driven by status seeking
Trickle-down model
Fashion diffuses through society because it it the main indicator of social class
Trickle-down model
Still exists in luxury fashion market
Trickle-down model
Design is associated with art; designers exclusivity is important
Trickle-down model
Individuality of client is not considered but rather their taste
Trickle-down model
Focus is on the quality of materials, only incremental change
Trickle-down model
Couturiers make two levels of products now: ready to wear and haute couture
Trickle-down model
Opposite of trickle down
Bubble up model
No fashion centres/cities; originates from the margins of fashion society (non western)
Bubble up model
youth -driven
Bubble up model
“Poverty chic”
Bubble up model
Fashion change is driven by cool hunting: focused on lifestyle rather than the object itself
Bubble up model
Image is valued over quality of the garment
Bubble up model
Fashion moves horizontally across multiple socio-economic markets
Mass-Market/Trickle Across
Product is introduced in different stores at once (department stores, discount stores, boutiques)
Mass-Market/Trickle Across
Risky, because what’s shown on the runway doesn’t always become fashionable
Mass-Market/Trickle Across
Blumer rebutting/pointing out flaws of previous sociological theories
Fashion as Collective Selection (Blumer 1969)
Earlier sociologists have been wrong about fashion; they’ve looked at fashion as the same things as fads
Fashion as Collective Selection (Blumer 1969)
Argues fashion is more than fads: fashion applies to more than trendy clothes
Fashion as Collective Selection (Blumer 1969)
Previous social theories view fashion as trivial and socially insignificant: Blumer disagrees
Fashion as Collective Selection (Blumer 1969)
Earlier theories consider fashion irrational
Earlier theories have misunderstood the nature of fashion
Fashion as Collective Selection (Blumer 1969)
Earlier models over emphasize the role of the elites; Blumer believes elite ignore fashion trends; middle class are the drivers.
Fashion as Collective Selection (Blumer 1969):
Fashion and the elite
Innovators of contemporary fashion are not necessarily those with status
Fashion as Collective Selection (Blumer 1969):
Fashion and the elite
Zeitgeist (spirit of the times, eg Miami Vice cops created the fashionable menswear look of the 80s).
Fashion as Collective Selection (Blumer 1969):
Social Role of Fashion
Fashion is change; we must move on to what’s new.
Fashion as Collective Selection (Blumer 1969):
Social Role of Fashion
Fashion helps societies progress. Fashion prepares us for the future
Fashion as Collective Selection (Blumer 1969):
Social Role of Fashion
New participants (eg democratizing aspect of internet, style blogs)
Fashion as Collective Selection (Blumer 1969):
Changes in fashion
New social and cultural phenomena (eg sustainable and recycled dress)
Fashion as Collective Selection (Blumer 1969):
Changes in fashion
Internal changes in the fashion field (changes to manufacturing, auto cad, changes to supply chains, the way fashion is merchandised, more resale shops)
Fashion as Collective Selection (Blumer 1969):
Changes in fashion
Actual clothing + image-clothing + written-clothing = fashion. Written is most important.
Fashion as a Discourse (Roland Barthes)
Physical description
Circumstantial features
Evaluative statements
Fashion as a Discourse (Roland Barthes):
Written Clothing
Theory has been critiqued, because it is a linguistic model. According to Barthes, we are all manipulated by fashion, as it speak to wants over needs
Fashion as a Discourse (Roland Barthes):
Suggests fashion as linguistic model doesn’t work
Fashion as Code (Fred Davis)
Fashion codes are unstable; they change over time, their meanings are context-dependent, their meaning is dependent on the relationships between individuals
Fashion as Code (Fred Davis)
Dress is uncoded; the meanings are ambivalent
Only uniforms are the category that have a clear code
Fashion as Code (Fred Davis)
Fashion no longer originates with haute couture or on the street; it’s all personal expression
Populist Model of Fashion (Ted Polhemus)
Decline of traditional features of fashion; in contemporary fashion, we don’t see newness
Populist Model of Fashion (Ted Polhemus)
Fashion is consumer driven, not designer driven
Populist Model of Fashion (Ted Polhemus)
Fashion is seen through the formation of style tribes
Individuals who share an aesthetic but do not share values or beliefs
Populist Model of Fashion (Ted Polhemus)
Economic circumstances lead to fads
The Operation of Fashion
Humans have a herd mentality; “bandwagon effect”
The Operation of Fashion
Sees fads as fashionable dress that operates in an irrational way; not tied to practicality, no logical progression in fashion, only novelty drives change
The Operation of Fashion: Veblens
When aesthetic nausea sets in, the next trend is introduced
The Operation of Fashion: Veblens
Sees fashion as a way that reinstates social groups: an oscillation between imitation and individuality
The Operation of Fashion: Simmel