Waves 5 Flashcards

1
Q

Are coastlines temporary?

A

Ya they’re subject to change cuz affected by

  • erosion
  • sediment transport
  • hurricanes and storms
  • uplift and subsidence
  • sea level changes
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2
Q

Groins

A

elongated structures perpendicular to shoreline to trap sediments
- fight against longshore drift

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3
Q

label a and b as erosion or deposition:
-> -> -> downcurrent
b || a
[shore]

A

a = erosion (downdrift)
b = deposition (updrift)

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4
Q

Jetties

A

preserve inlet or harbour from closing

  • built in pairs on each side of opening
  • deposition on updrift, erosion on downdrift
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5
Q

Breakwaters

A

protects shoreline against wave action / erosion

  • built a distance away parallel to shore
  • dissipate energy as waves hit it
  • safe harbour for ships behind it
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6
Q

Tethered float breakwater

A

dissipates wave energy but allow flow of sediments
- less common
- more expensive

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7
Q

Sea wall

A

defend coast by reflecting strong waves energy

  • sand below wall erodes so wall would collapse eventually
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8
Q

storm surges result from

A

hurricanes

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9
Q

In the Southern Hemisphere, hurricanes have a ___ rotation. Which side do storm surges hit?

A

clockwise
storm surges hit on left side

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10
Q

In the Northern Hemisphere, hurricanes have a ___ rotation. Which side do storm surges hit?

A

counterclockwise
storm surges hit on right side

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11
Q

___ close to the eye wall of the hurricane increases sea surface height by ___

A

low pressure
pulling up the water

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12
Q

Storm surge

A

mound of seawater that spills onto land
associated with hurricanes

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13
Q

Storm surges are generated due to

A
  • low pressure in hurricane eye (SMALL surge)
  • wind with very high speed (LARGE surge, offset from eye)
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14
Q

are storm surges waves?

A

not a true wave, just a local change in sea level
of 10m+

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15
Q

how long do storm surges last?

A

hours to days

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16
Q

Which surge is larger, wind-driven surge or pressure surge?

A

wind-driven

17
Q

Where is wave energy most concentrated?

A

At headlands

  • less energy in bays
18
Q

A resonant wave in a body of water is called

A

Seiche

19
Q

Storm surges may last

A

Few hours to days