Waves 2 Flashcards

1
Q

Sea state is the ___ at sea

A

degree of turbulence

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2
Q

What three things are needed to get BIG waves?

A
  1. Fast wind speed
  2. Sustained wind (blow for long time)
  3. Long fetch
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3
Q

Long fetch

A

large, uninterrupted distance (fetch) over which wind blows

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4
Q

As wind speed, blowing time, or long fetch increases, what happens to the waves?

A
  • more energy is added
  • wave height increases = bigger waves
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5
Q

The Beaufort scale rates ___

A

relates wind speeds
to observed conditions at sea & on land
- from 0 to 12

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6
Q

Waves develop in a ___ sea state

A

turbulent

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7
Q

Is there a maximum sea state?

A

Yes
- the fully developed sea

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8
Q

In a fully developed sea, there is a practical limit for ___

A

EVERY wind speed

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9
Q

The practical limit for a wind speed means that

A

extra time or distance will NOT produce larger waves

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10
Q

The biggest wind waves are found in ___ because ___

A

Southern ocean around Antarctica
- cuz nothing affects their flow = large fetch

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11
Q

How big are wind waves usually in the open ocean?

A

About 2-6m height

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12
Q

What happens when waves become too steep in the open ocean?

A

they become unstable and break or fall over

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13
Q

How can we calculate when a wave will break?

A

steepness (H/L) > 1/7 (0.14)

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14
Q

Wind waves may have wavelengths of up to ___ meaning they will break at max ___ m high

A
  • L about 150 m
  • break at 21m
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15
Q

Swells are waves that move ___ a storm region and can travel distances of ____

A
  • away from
  • thousands of km
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16
Q

What happens when swells from diff directions run into each other?

A

they interact thru constructive & destructive interference

  • height of resulting wave is a sum of individual interacting waves
  • result of this produces complex mixture of waves
17
Q

Rogue waves

A

unusually large waves created by constructive interference

  • monster or freak wave
  • super random and fast (seconds)
  • can be 3-4 times larger than other waves in the same area
18
Q

How to calculate whether a wave is rogue?

A

H ÷ Hs > 2.2
OR
Crest height ÷ Hs > 1.25

(Hs is Height of sea state)

19
Q

True or False: rogue waves are only hazardous for ships at sea

A

False :O
- most hazardous for ships at sea, but can also hit coast & drown ppl on shore

20
Q

What place is notorious for rogue waves and why?

A

Cape of Good Hope in south coast of Southern Africa, becuz strong currents collide with large wind waves

(Angulhas current flow from north
Antarctic storm waves from south)

21
Q

Seiche

A

standing wave oscillating in a closed/semi-enclosed body of water

  • time btwn high and low can be hrs
22
Q

The properties of a standing wave depend on ___

A

the properties of the basin

23
Q

For seiches, a longer length of a basin means

A

a longer period of the standing wave

24
Q

How are seiches generated?

A

mostly change of atmospheric pressure !

  1. Seismic
    - fault motion or landslides into water
    - ex/ lake tahoe
  2. Meterological
    - wind
    - change in atmos pressure
    - ex/ Great Lakes
  3. Tsunami entering a harbor / bay
25
Q

Seiches normally have what kinds of properties?

A

long wavelengths and periods

26
Q

The period of a seiche is determined by?

A

the natural resonant period of the basin

27
Q

The natural resonant period of a basin is determined by?

A

its size, depth, and contour

28
Q

Resonance is the tendency of ___

A

a system to oscillate with greater amplitude at a given period

29
Q

Resonance is longer for ___ bodies of water

A

larger

ex/ Coffee cup < 1s
Lake ~ mins to hrs

30
Q

What happens when a force is applied at intervals that coincide with the natural resonant period of a system?

A

the response amplitude will be at its relative max

31
Q

True or False: every object and system has a natural resonant period

A

true

32
Q

Equation to calculate the period of a seiche

A

T = 2L / (√g x d)
OR
T = 0.64 x (L / √d )

L = longest length of body
d = average water depth