Waves Flashcards

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1
Q

What is a wave?

A

A disturbance on the surface of the ocean which forms a moving ridge or swash

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2
Q

What are 3 factors affect the size of a wave?

A

-Wind strength
-Wind duration
-Fetch

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3
Q

What causes waves?

A

An energy transfer from wind to sea

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4
Q

What is the fetch of a wave?

A

The distance a wave has travelled?

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5
Q

What is swash?

A

The movement of a wave up the beach

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6
Q

what is backwash?

A

The movement of a wave down the beach, back to the sea

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7
Q

What are the characteristics of a destructive wave?

A

-Backwash is stronger than its swash
-Steep wave front
-height over 1 metre. -Short wave length.
-High frequency

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8
Q

When are destructive waves most common?

A

Winter

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9
Q

What are the characteristics of a constructive wave?

A

-Long wave length
-Low frequency
-Swash stronger than backwash
-Low wave height.

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10
Q

When are constructive waves most common?

A

Summer

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