Waves Flashcards
What is a wave?
A disturbance on the surface of the ocean which forms a moving ridge or swash
What are 3 factors affect the size of a wave?
-Wind strength
-Wind duration
-Fetch
What causes waves?
An energy transfer from wind to sea
What is the fetch of a wave?
The distance a wave has travelled?
What is swash?
The movement of a wave up the beach
what is backwash?
The movement of a wave down the beach, back to the sea
What are the characteristics of a destructive wave?
-Backwash is stronger than its swash
-Steep wave front
-height over 1 metre. -Short wave length.
-High frequency
When are destructive waves most common?
Winter
What are the characteristics of a constructive wave?
-Long wave length
-Low frequency
-Swash stronger than backwash
-Low wave height.
When are constructive waves most common?
Summer