waves Flashcards
What is wavelength?
Distance between two peaks.
What is amplitude?
Point from maximum to minimum displacement.
What is frequency?
How many waves pass a point per second.
What is waveperiod?
Time taken from A to B.
What creates waves?
Solar input from sun causes evaporation, wind blows across a surface.
What does friction with the sea bed cause in waves?
Orbitals that become more elliptical in their cycles.
What factors affect waves?
Wind strength, length of time wind blows for, distance the wind has blown.
Strength or time cause what?
More friction , higher wave height and higher frequency.
What waves have the biggest fetch?
The biggest waves.
Describe constructive waves:
Surge and spill with a powerful swash, they have a steep wave front and long wavelength and deposit sediment to the beach.
Describe destructive waves:
Destroy and erode the beach with a powerful backwash and wave height. They have a shorter wavelength and a gentler wave front.
