wave formation Flashcards
1
Q
what is the term for what happens when wind moves across the surface of the water?
A
frictional drag
2
Q
what does frictional drag create?
A
small ripples and waves leading to circular orbital motion of water particles in the ocean
3
Q
what happens as the seabed becomes shallower towards the coastline?
A
the orbit of the water particles becomes more elliptical, leading to more horizontal movement of the waves
