[Unit 2B: Enquiry Question 2] Flashcards
Coastal Landscapes
how do waves form
wind blows over the sea creating friction creating capillary waves. as wind continues capillary waves grow into swells formed by some water being pushed down and some water being pushed up. This creates an orbital motion within the wave. As the wave approaches the shore it will break as it can no longer gain energy.
what are the two types of waves
constructive and destructive
what are the key characteristics of constructive waves
less frequent (6-8wpm)
lower energy (weaker)
deposition > erosion
stronger swash than backwash
carry finer sediment (0.1-2mm)
usually in the summer - calmer
what are the key characteristics of destructive waves
more frequent (13-15wpm)
higher energy (stronger)
erosion > deposition
stronger backwash than swash
carry larger sediment (1-22mm)
usually in the winter - stormier
why might beach profiles change in the long term
- if sediment supply from rivers is reduced
- if sediment supply along coast is reduced
- changes to climate (stormier = winter beach profiles)
define “storm beach”
high energy deposition of coarse sediment during storms
define “berms”
summer swell wave depostion
define “offshore ridge”
destructive wave erosion that is deposited offshore
when does the most erosion occur
waves at their largest (wind speed and fetch)
waves approach coast at 90 degrees to cliff
tide is high
after heavy rainfall (permeable strata weak)
debris is removed from cliff foot
define “hydraulic action”
waves force and trap compressed air into cracks (only type of erosion that can break igneous rocks)
define “abrasion”
throwing lose sediment at base of cliff
define “attrition”
rocks bounce and reduce in size (softer rocks)
define “solution”/”corrosion”
weak acid in sea dissolves rock (limestone and chalk)
how does a wavecut platform form
hydraulic action and abrasion erode cliff face and create a notch. the notch grows and headland can no longer support weight. it collapses forming a wavecut platform
how does a cave, arch, stack and stump form?
hydraulic action erodes crack and forms a cave. hydraulic action and abrasion deepens cave and ultimately makes through the other side into arch. the arch weathers and collapses forming a stack. the stack continues to weather and erode forming a stump
what two other landforms can form from erosion on a headland
geo and blowhole
what are the four types of transportation
traction
saltation
suspension
solution
define “traction”
rolling
define “saltation”
bouncing
define “suspension”
held
define “solution”
dissolved
what did Hjulstrom’s curve show?
bigger sediment, more energy required to transport
smaller sediment, less energy required to transport
how does longshore drift work
prevailing winds drive waves in that direction. picking up sediment in same direction. it falls perpendicular to coast due to gravity
give an example of a wavecut platform in the UK
Kimmeridge wavecut platform, dorset