The Marine Environment Flashcards
What are the 3 parts of the sea
Waves, Currents and Tides
What 3 factors do wave size depend on
Speed of the wind, Duration of the wind and the fetch
What is Fetch
The distance the wave has traveled
What are waves created by
Friction between wind and the sea
Why do waves get higher the closer to the coast
The sea beds slows the base of the waves
When waves break, what do they send water up a beach as
Swash
What is the water flowing back called from a wave wash
Backwash
What is the high point of a wave called
Crest
What is the low point of a wave called
Trough
What are the 2 types of waves
Destructive and Constructive waves
What height do Destructive waves have
Steep, high and break rapidly
Where do Destructive waves break
Shores with steep gradients
Where is the energy focused in Destructive waves
Small areas
What kind of a backwash do Destructive waves have
Strong backwash
Do Destructive waves cause weathering, erosion or decomposition
Erosion
When are Destructive waves common
During the winter
What height do Constructive waves have
Flat, low and break gently
Where do Where do Constructive waves break
Shores with gentle gradients
Where is the energy focused in Constructive waves
Over a wide area
What kind of a backwash do Constructive waves have
Little as water soaks through the sand
Do Constructive waves cause weathering, erosion or decomposition
Decomposition
When are Constructive Waves common
During the Summer
What is wave retraction
the bending of waves around an obstacle
What causes a wave to slow down in wave retraction
The waves move into shallow water
What are the 6 processes of erosion
hurlers
are
awful
at
cooking and
soccer
Hydraulic
action
abrasion
attrition
compressed air
solution
What is hydraulic action in waves
force of breaking waves on the coastline
What is abrasion in waves
Rocks carried by waves that hit against the coastline
what is attrition in waves
rocks hitting off eachother
what is compressed air in waves
air that is compressed into cracks in rocks and the decompression
what is solution in waves
chemical reaction between sea and rocks
What 4 factors effect the rate of erosion
Size and speed of wave
shape of coastline
rock type and joints
rising sea level
Name 2 Irish features of erosion
Bays and headlands in tramore bay
sea cliff in cliffs of mohar co.clare
How are bays and headlands eroded
waves crashing against a coast of rocks
What determines the speed of which a rock is eroded at
The hardness of the rock
Why do bays often have a beach
Because the waves are slower due to refraction causing decomposition
What is a headland
land jutting out into the sea