The Marine Environment Flashcards

1
Q

What are the 3 parts of the sea

A

Waves, Currents and Tides

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2
Q

What 3 factors do wave size depend on

A

Speed of the wind, Duration of the wind and the fetch

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3
Q

What is Fetch

A

The distance the wave has traveled

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4
Q

What are waves created by

A

Friction between wind and the sea

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5
Q

Why do waves get higher the closer to the coast

A

The sea beds slows the base of the waves

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6
Q

When waves break, what do they send water up a beach as

A

Swash

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7
Q

What is the water flowing back called from a wave wash

A

Backwash

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8
Q

What is the high point of a wave called

A

Crest

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9
Q

What is the low point of a wave called

A

Trough

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10
Q

What are the 2 types of waves

A

Destructive and Constructive waves

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11
Q

What height do Destructive waves have

A

Steep, high and break rapidly

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12
Q

Where do Destructive waves break

A

Shores with steep gradients

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13
Q

Where is the energy focused in Destructive waves

A

Small areas

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14
Q

What kind of a backwash do Destructive waves have

A

Strong backwash

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15
Q

Do Destructive waves cause weathering, erosion or decomposition

A

Erosion

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16
Q

When are Destructive waves common

A

During the winter

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17
Q

What height do Constructive waves have

A

Flat, low and break gently

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18
Q

Where do Where do Constructive waves break

A

Shores with gentle gradients

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19
Q

Where is the energy focused in Constructive waves

A

Over a wide area

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20
Q

What kind of a backwash do Constructive waves have

A

Little as water soaks through the sand

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21
Q

Do Constructive waves cause weathering, erosion or decomposition

A

Decomposition

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22
Q

When are Constructive Waves common

A

During the Summer

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23
Q

What is wave retraction

A

the bending of waves around an obstacle

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24
Q

What causes a wave to slow down in wave retraction

A

The waves move into shallow water

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25
Q

What are the 6 processes of erosion
hurlers
are
awful
at
cooking and
soccer

A

Hydraulic
action
abrasion
attrition
compressed air
solution

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26
Q

What is hydraulic action in waves

A

force of breaking waves on the coastline

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27
Q

What is abrasion in waves

A

Rocks carried by waves that hit against the coastline

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28
Q

what is attrition in waves

A

rocks hitting off eachother

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29
Q

what is compressed air in waves

A

air that is compressed into cracks in rocks and the decompression

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30
Q

what is solution in waves

A

chemical reaction between sea and rocks

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31
Q

What 4 factors effect the rate of erosion

A

Size and speed of wave
shape of coastline
rock type and joints
rising sea level

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32
Q

Name 2 Irish features of erosion

A

Bays and headlands in tramore bay
sea cliff in cliffs of mohar co.clare

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33
Q

How are bays and headlands eroded

A

waves crashing against a coast of rocks

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34
Q

What determines the speed of which a rock is eroded at

A

The hardness of the rock

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35
Q

Why do bays often have a beach

A

Because the waves are slower due to refraction causing decomposition

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36
Q

What is a headland

A

land jutting out into the sea

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37
Q

What is a bay

A

An inlet in the coast

38
Q

Where can a bay and a headland be seen

A

Tramore bay and wicklow head

39
Q

Where is the notch on a sea cliff formed

A

Near the high water mark

40
Q

What stops the notch on a sea cliff from being formed

A

When the notch is undercutted until overhanging rock collapses

41
Q

Give a location of a sea cliff in Ireland

A

Cliffs of Moher

42
Q

What type of sea cliffs are most impacted by erosion

A

Softer boulder clay cliffs

43
Q

What does vegetation on a sea cliff show

A

That it is inactive

44
Q

Where does a sea cliff develop

A

at a weak point on a headland

45
Q

How is sea stack formed

A

When the arch gets bigger and the roof collapses

46
Q

Give an Irish example of a sea stack

A

Old head of Kinsale

47
Q

How are blow holes formed

A

When compressed air escapes through weak points in the roof of caves

48
Q

What are GEOS

A

Ling, narrow, steep inlets that develop when the roof of a cave collapses

49
Q

Give an Irish Location of a blowhole and Geo

A

Bridges of Ross, Clare

50
Q

where do sediments come from

A

Marine activity and rivers

51
Q

What 3 factors transports sediments

A

swash, currents and tides

52
Q

what are currents

A

movement of water within the sea

53
Q

How are currents brought on shore

A

By the breaking of waves

54
Q

Where do rip currents move

A

Away from the coast line

55
Q

Where do longshore currents move

A

Close to the coastline

56
Q

What is the main role of currents

A

to transport sediments

57
Q

What is longshore drift

A

the movement of sediments (sand)

58
Q

Give an example of a beach and dune

A

tramore beach

59
Q

Give an example of a sand spit, bar and lagoon

A

Inch Co.Kerry

60
Q

Give an example of a tombolo

A

Sutton Co.Dublin

61
Q

What are beaches

A

gently sloping deposits of loose material

62
Q

How are beaches formed

A

by longshore drift and constructive waves

63
Q

What are the 2 sections of a beach

A

Backshore and foreshore

64
Q

What is a backshore

A

steep gradient and coarse material

65
Q

what is foreshore

A

gentle gradient and fine material

66
Q

What is a berm

A

A ridge of sand that is slowly moved up a beach by successive incoming tides

67
Q

What are beach cups

A

semi circular features of sediments in an arc pattern

68
Q

What produces ridges

A

The spreading out of the waves energy across a wide are of beach

69
Q

Where can sand dunes be seen

A

Tramore

70
Q

How does sand get to the dunes from the beach

A

Prevailing winds

71
Q

What helps anchor sand dunes

A

Marram grass

72
Q

What are sand spits

A

long, narrow ridges of sand with one end attached to land and the other jutting across a bay

73
Q

Give a location of sand spit

A

Inch, Co,Kerry or tramore

74
Q

What shapes can sand spits be

A

hooked or curved

75
Q

How do double sand spits occur

A

When a second spit develops on the other side of a bay

76
Q

What is responsible for a double sand spit

A

A change in wind direction

77
Q

How are sand bars developed

A

When a sand spit closes the mouth of a bay

78
Q

What is a Tombolo

A

A ridge of beach material that extends outwards to join with an offshore island

79
Q

What creates a Tombolo

A

Longshore drift and wave refraction

80
Q

Give a location of a Tombolo

A

Sutton Co. Dublin

81
Q

What is coastal management

A

Managing coastal areas to balance environmental, economic and human activities

82
Q

What are the 2 methods to prevent human interaction

A

Hard and soft engineering

83
Q

What is slow engineering

A

Used to slow down erosion in a natural way

84
Q

What is Hard engineering

A

Used to prevent erosion destruction clogging up a shipping lane

85
Q

What prevents marram grass trampling

A

fences in sand dunes

86
Q

What are placed in front of Dunes to trap sand and encourage plant growth

A

Bach mats

87
Q

What is it called to pump sand on a beach to replenish its stock

A

Bach nourishment

88
Q

What are built to prevent erosion of valuable land

A

Sea walls

89
Q

What is built to absorb energy of the waves

A

Rock armour

90
Q

What are built to reduce the force of the waves before they are hit

A

Breakwaters

91
Q

What are wooden or concrete walls which are built at right angles to rap sand carried by longshore drift

A

Gryones

92
Q

What are wire mesh cages filled with large stones to absorb energy called

A

Gabions