Spain Flashcards

1
Q

Spain’s history of wine to 13th Century

A
  • Phoenecians founded port of Cadiz 1100 BCE, made wine (stone lagares found)
  • Invading Cathargians, then invading Romans improved wine-making. Exported across empire.
  • Then invading Moors 711 (didn’t drink, but let others)
  • Gradually overthrown by Christians over centuries from north to south. Exports to English ports from Bilbao in 13th C.
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2
Q

How did Spain maintain wine trade despite numerous wars in 14th-18th centuries?

A
  • Exported to its newly founded colonies in America
    • sherries from Jerez
    • Fondillón from Alicante (high alcohol late-harvest unfortified Monastrell made from solera system)
    • raisined wines of Malaga
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3
Q

Who was Manuel Quintano and what did he do, when?

A
  • A canon in holy orders who brought back wine-making and cooperage expertise from Bordeaux to Rioja, including oak barriques
  • in late 18th C
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4
Q

Why did few Rioja producers follow Manuel Quintano’s Bordeaux practices in the late 18thC

A
  • Because it was ruled that there should be no price difference between the various wines produced in Rioja and his practises (incl oak barrels) were expensive
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5
Q

Who convinced the local government to mature Rioja in oak barrels (and when)?

A
  • Luciano de Murrieta (later the Marqués de Murrieta) and the Marqués de Riscal sought exile in Bordeaux during Spanish civil wars of mid 19thC. They returned with expertise, incl maturation in barriques.
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6
Q

What acclerated the growth of the new style oak aged Rioja in the late 19thC?

A
  • Phylloxera arrived in France.
  • Rioja close to France and Rioja style close enough to Bordeaux.
  • New wineries founded close to Haro railway station, for easy bulk shipment to France
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7
Q

What factors caused a huge decline in Spain’s wine business in early 20th C?

A
  • Phylloxera
  • Much less demand as Spain lost its overseas colonies and France’s vineyards recovered from own phylloxera damage
  • Caused massive unemployment, poverty, emigration
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8
Q

How did Spain recover from phylloxera?

A
  • Replanted
  • 1907 founded Rioja Wine Exporters’ Syndicate to guarantee authenticity in export markets
  • 1926 Rioja became first Spanish wine region to establish regulatory body (Consejo Regulador)
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9
Q

What hampered Spain’s quality wine production for much of 20th C

A
  • Civil War 1936-39 meant dictatorship for nearly 40 years
  • Spanish economy devastated by
    • civil war
    • loss of export due to 2nd World War
    • economic isolation of General Franco’s govt
  • Wine production was cooperatives making high volume cheap wines.
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10
Q

Explain why the quality of Spanish wines has increased dramatically over the last few decades

A
  • Quality wine hampered by civil war then economic isolation enforced by Franco’s government
  • co-operatives focused on quantity over quality
  • winemakers no experience of winemaking practices in other countries.
  • the return of democratic rule in the mid-1970s brought greater freedom, and 1986 accession into the EU brought investment.
  • Modernisation swept the country, including temperature controlled stainless steel tanks, research, experience
  • In 1996 irrigation legalised - more vineyards could produce a viable crop and production has risen.
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11
Q

Latitude of Spain

A

36-43ᵒN (therefore warm)

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12
Q

Why does Spain have a varied climate?

A
  • Extensive coastline, Atlantic and Mediterranean
  • Several significant mountain ranges
  • a large raised plateau (the meseta) in centre
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13
Q

Spain’s topgraphy

A

High plateau tilted from north-east (Pyrenees) to south-west (Andalucia) with lower ground formed by several major rivers, along which many wine-growing regions are found

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14
Q

Spain’s climate (broadly)

A
  • north-west is Atlantic influenced - maritime, high rainfall throughout year
  • north/ north-east sheltered by mountains, more of a continental climate (though some maritime, and in north-east Mediterranean influences
  • south and east face Mediterranean. Vineyards close to sea have moderated climate with warm dry summers, mild winters
  • meseta, 600-900m, covers vast area over central Spain. Continental; hot days, cool nights, though altitude helps moderate heat.
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15
Q

Why is Spain not the biggest producer of wine by volume, even though it has the highest area under vine globally?

A
  • Many regions of Spain have a low annual rainfall (as little as 300mm), so low density planting eg La Mancha 1000 vines pha v eg with 10,000 vines in Mosel/ Left Bank
  • Irrigation was nationally legalised in 1996, but each region’s Consejo Regulador sets its own limitations: eg in extremes of drought/ establishing your vines/ at start of the growing season but not during ripening.
  • Even with irrigation, there needs to be a source of water and this is a challenge - drought is annual feature in regions of central Spain.
  • In addition bush vines are v old, giving intense fruit, but v low yields, further reducing production volumes,
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16
Q

Spain’s area of vineyards and volume produced

A
  • 967,000 ha (world’s largest)
  • (5yr average) 39m hL (third behind Italy and France)
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17
Q

Growing risks in Spain

A
  • Drought
  • Heavy rain-storms, temperature rising quickly so risk of mildew
  • Spring frosts where climate is continental
  • European grapevine moth
    • managed with pheromone traps
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18
Q

Why are many wine producers in Spain organic, but not certified as such?

A
  • Cost
  • Producers do not believe consumers both domestically and in export markets will pay the premium required to attain and retain certification as organic
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19
Q

Why is mechanisation in Spain still relatively limited?

A
  • About 66% of vineyard plots are under 0.5ha
  • Another 22% are between 0.5 and 3ha
  • ie the vineyards are too small to warrant mechanisation
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20
Q

Top 6 grapes in volume in Spain

(slightly more black than white)

A
  1. Airen
  2. Tempranillo
  3. Bobal
  4. Garnacha
  5. Macabeo
  6. Monastrell (Mourvedre)
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21
Q

Airen (in brief!)

A
  • Spain’s most planted grape
  • Mainly in Castilla- La Mancha in centre of Spain
  • makes inexpensive white for early consumption
  • much is distilled into Brandy de Jerez
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22
Q

Tempranillo generally (in Spain)

A
  • Most planted black grape in Spain (only behind Airen)
  • Planted widely
  • Its dominance is recent and down to association with Rioja, as Spain’s leading wine region
  • Makes inexpensive fruit to super premium Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Toro
  • Can produce high yields (popular with growers), but best limited/ more concentrated
  • Early-ripening, so best in warm climates with cooling influence (altitude, cool winds)
  • Single varietal and blended
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23
Q

What is Cencibel?

A

(synonym for) Tempranillo in Castilla - La Mancha

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24
Q

What is Macabeo called in Rioja?

A

Viura

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25
Q

Wine-making in Spain generally

A
  • Has evolved considerably in last 40 years
  • Youthful, fruity white, rosé and reds made protectively
    • fermentation in stainless steel, termperature-controlled, using inert gases, cultured yeasts, fining and/or filtration. Inexpensive/ mid-priced reds may undergo carbonic or semi-carbonic maceration to enhance fruity character
  • Mid-priced or above reds usually oaked
  • Best whites usually fermented and or matured in oak
    • if not may be stored on lees after fermentation to enhance texture
  • Some very good whites unoaked (but it’s not the norm)
26
Q

National ageing legislation in Spain for red wines

A
  • Generic - no ageing requirement
  • Crianza - minimum 6 months in oak, minimum total ageing 24 months
  • Reserva - minimum 12 months in oak, minimum total ageing 36 months
  • Gran Reserva - minimum 18 months in oak, minimum total ageing 60 months
27
Q

National ageing legislation in Spain for white and rosé wines

A
  • Generic - no ageing requirement
  • Crianza - minimum 6 months in oak, minimum total ageing 18 months
  • Reserva - minimum 6 months in oak, minimum total ageing 24 months
  • Gran Reserva - minimum 6 months in oak, minimum total ageing 48 months
28
Q

The criticism of Spain’s legislation for minimum ageing requirements

A
  • It is both too prescriptive and not prescriptive enough
    • It suggests a hierarchy of excellence that Gran Reserva is the highest quality wine.
    • This also suggests that longer in oak and bottle is the criteria for higher quality (not true for certain styles of wine)
  • Yet there are no quality requirements for the wines in each category beyond those set by the DO
    • Beyond max oak barrel size of 330L, there are no specifications on the type or age of oak vessel used for ageing (new, American, old, French, a mix?)
  • Therefore the legislation gives little guidance to consumers of the style, quality or value
29
Q

Why do some Spanish wine producers eschew the national ageing regulations?

A
  • Because they do not meet them (eg prefer to age for less time in oak, or in larger than 330L barrels (225L in Rioja)
  • Because they do not believe they will help them sell their wines (regulations are very traditional and not necessarily a reflection of their modern, fruit forward wine)
30
Q

What does roble or joven mean on a Spanish wine label?

A
  • roble means oak and is used for wines, typically red, which have been matured in oak for an unspecified time, usually less than that required for a Crianza (ie 6 mths in barrel plus 18 months)
  • joven (young) is used for wines released young, often with no or minimal oak ageing
31
Q

Spain’s relationship with oak

A
  • Traditionally used American (coconut, vanilla, dill) because
    • cheaper
    • good trading relationships with US (often at war with France)
  • More and more use French (more subtle, cloves, smoke)
    • especially Penedès, Priorat and Ribera del Duero
  • Some use both, depending on flavours seeking
32
Q

Much of Spain’s rosé (rosado) is inexpensive and sold in bulk, but better rosado is being made. Why?

A
  • Better understanding of vineyard management and harvesting times
  • Improvements in wine-making (eg temperature controlled stainless steel fermentation)
  • Understanding of market trends (away from high alcohol, jammy flavours)
  • Most expensive may be fermented/ matured in oak or stored on lees for texture/complexity
  • Traditionally deep in colour through longer skin contact, but some pale, Prevencal styles now
33
Q

How does Bodega López de Heredia make its rosado?

A
  • the traditional way ie
    • mix of (mainly) black and white grapes macerated, sometimes beyond the beginning of fermentation, pressed and then fermented together
    • matured in oak vessels
    • sometimes for a long time, which leads to reduction in fruit flavours, but greater texture and increased complexity from secondary and tertiary flavours
34
Q

Location and climate of Jumilla DO

A
  • In Murcia on flat plains an wide valleys between Alicante in East and La Mancha in West
  • Warm continental climate - hot summers, cold winters.
  • Altitudes range from 400-800 m, providing cooling influence and large diurnal range
  • 25,000 ha of vine plantings
  • very low rainfall 250-300mm, but soil is sand over limestone which aids retention of ground water and makes grape growing viable. Many vineyards not equipped with irrigation.
35
Q

Why don’t most vineyards in Jumilla DO have irrigation despite a very low rainfall (250-300mm)?

A
  • Because the soil (sand over limestone) helps retain ground water
  • The main grape (80% of plantings) is Monastrell, well suited to extreme heat and low rainfall
36
Q

When and why did Jumilla start improving the quality of its wines?

A
  • Jumilla used to produce solely inexpensive wines sold in bulk
  • in 1989 devastated by phylloxera - significant proportion grubbed up & replanted with virus-free better quality Monastrell clones
  • Also improved vineyard management, improved winemaking techniques (earlier harvesting, cooler fermentation temperatures)
  • Some old vines unaffected and produce low yields of high quality fruit
37
Q

Flavour profile of Monastrell (Mourvdre) in Jumilla & Yecla

A
  • Full bodied
  • High alcohol
  • Ripe, concentrated blackberry and cherry fruit with spice from oak maturation
  • Balanced by medium (+) acidity
  • Also makes some rosé
38
Q

The eight black grape varieties permitted in Jumilla

A
  1. Monastrell (80% of plantings)
  2. Cencibel (Tempranillo)
  3. Garnacha Tintorera (Alicante Bouschet)
  4. Garnacha
  5. Cabernet-Sauvignon
  6. Merlot
  7. Syrah
  8. Petit Verdot
39
Q

Why are the other grapes in Jumilla blended with Monastrell?

A

To lower Monastrell’s tannin levels

40
Q

wine business in Jumilla

A
  • 2000 growers
  • 40 wineries (incl co-ops)
  • Mainly high volume, inexpensive (though better quality than used it be)
  • Some v good, premium wines from eg Bodegas El Nido, Casa Castillo)
  • Majority of wines (esp expensive ones) are sold on export markets
41
Q

One card on Yecla DO

A
  • Between Jumilla & Alicante
  • 6000 ha under vine
  • Similar climate to Jumilla, 500-900m cooling altitude, rainfall 300mm, but more moderation from Mediterranean
  • Similar soils to Jumilla (sand & limestone retains water)
  • Same 8 grapes, but mainly Monastrell (same flavour profile, usually mass market, some premium)
  • La Purisma is a co-op responsible for 60% of Yecla DO’s total output, both bulk and bottled wines
  • 95% of wine is exported
42
Q

Flavour profile of Verdejo

(key grape in Rueda DO, Spain)

A
  • medium to medium (+) acidity
  • medium alcohol
  • apple, pear and peach characteristics
  • often with a herbal note (fennel)
  • a slight bitterness on the finish
43
Q

Permitted grapes in red Rioja (and percentage of plantings)

A
  • Tempranillo (88% of plantings)
  • Garnacha (8%)
  • Graciano (2%)
  • Mazuelo (aka Carignan 2%)
  • Maturano Tinta (aka Trousseau, tiny)
  • Cabernet-Sauvignon (tiny)
44
Q

main permitted grapes in white Rioja (and percentage of plantings)

A
  • Viura (aka Macabeo) 70% see separate slide
  • Tempranillo Blanco (12%) discovered ‘68, high acidity, lemon, grapefruit & pineapple
  • Malvasia and Garnacha Blanca (adds acidity) blending components add diversity of flavours
  • Verdejo and Sauvignon Blanc are either single varietals, or add aromas to Viura in inexpensive, unoaked
45
Q

one slide on Viura (Macabeo elsewhere in Spain & in Roussillon) in Rioja

A
  • most planted white in Rioja (70% white,6.5% total grapes)
  • late budding, late ripening, susceptible to botrytis, so best on warm, dry sites
  • relatively neutral, makes range of styles
    • high yields, stainless steel = simple, early drinking
    • lower yields, oak maturation = complex with long ageing potential
46
Q

location and climate of Rioja

A
  • Rioja DOCa is 100km (x 40km) n-w to s-e on River Ebro
  • in north of Spain about 100km from Bilbao/ Bay of Biscay
  • protected from cold north Atlantic by Sierra de Cantabria
  • from warm south meseta by Sierra de la Demanda
  • bit Mediterranean (400km) influenc via open Ebro valley
  • Rioja Alta - continental with some maritime
  • Rioja Alavesa - relatively cool and wet
  • Riola Oriental (ex Baja = low) - warm and dry (climate change means drought risk low altitude vineyards here)
47
Q

why has it been suggested a re-mapping/ renaming of Rioja’s zones would be helpful?

A

because the topography and soils are so varied

48
Q

briefly compare the climate of the three zones of Rioja

A

Rioja Alta - biggest, s. of River Ebro w. of Logrono city. Continental, maritime influences. By river low, warm, alluvial. N-w corner, cool, wetter, calacareous clay. S altitudes of 700m, relatively cool, clay

Rioja Alavesa - smallest, w of Logrono, n of river above Rioja Alta, relatively cool, wet (like n-w Alta), up to 700m, calacareous clay.

Rioja Orientale - e of Logrono, n & s of river. Northern part low, warm, driest in Rioja (suits Garnacha). South 500-1000m, clay soils, highest as cool as those in other 2 zones.

49
Q

although styles are varied now, what are known as the two styles of Rioja?

A
  • traditionally focussed on long ageing in Amercian oak; blends different, mixed vineyards = wines with aromas of dried fruit, mushrooms, cured meat, vanilla, coconut.
  • 1990s (vinos de autor) premium wines, no ageing category, low yields, very ripe parcels, concentrated, structured, in new French oak
  • nowadays somewhere in between, though all styles still made
50
Q

location and climate of Ribera de Duero DO

A
  • s-w of Rioja, within vast Castilla y León autonomous community in River Duero (upper) valley
  • cut off from any maritime influence by ring of mountains
  • continental, hot summers, very cold winters, vineyards up to 750-1000m
  • frosts an issue in spring and autumn,
  • rainfall q low (400-600mm), no irrigation during ripening
  • range of altitudes & aspects, east side cooler/higher
51
Q

Vineyard management in Ribera del Duero

A
  • most growers have plots under 1 ha
  • range of altitudes and aspects. Site selection is key: blending of different plots of Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) for balance, complexity & consistent yields (frost)
    • flat sites and north-facing sites at risk of frost in spring and autumn (limit time grapes can be left on vine: heaters, spray vines with water, helicopters)
  • 50% bush vines, 25% over 50 years old, some 100+
  • newer vineyards trellised as quicker to establish
52
Q

grapes of Ribera de Duero

A
  • TEMPRANILLO
  • DO is only red and rosé (vast majority is Tempranillo)
  • reds must be min 75% Tempranillo, but most are 100%
  • other permitted grapes, Cab Sav, Merlot, Malbec, Garnacha and white Albillo for freshness, rarely used)
  • most wines 100% Tempranillo
  • did I mention Tempranillo?
53
Q

classic style of Ribera de Duero DO wine

A
  • must be red (DO only for red/rosé)
  • 75% often 100% Tempranillo (CS, M, Malbec, Garn poss)
  • full bodied, high alcohol, ripe blackberry, plum, vanila and chocolate from new oak, usually French (some mix American)
  • premium/ super-premium (eg Pingus, Bodegas Aalto, Vega Sicilia) 50-100% new oak
  • general trend for less extraction, less time of skins post fermentation, less new oak
  • minority use Crianza (bit) Reserva, Gran Reserva (rare)
54
Q

Ignoring viticulture and wine making, why did Ribera Del Duero become a fine wine producing area?

A
  • Vega Sicilia establised late 19th C (v high quality)
  • but Alejandro Fernandez’s Pesquera in 1980s international acclaim inspired producers (who’d been selling to local co-op) to make/bottle own wine
  • DO formed in 1982 when 9 wineries. 280+ today
  • Madrid quite close for Spanish fine wine drinkers
  • Investment from wineries in Rioja and Catalunya
  • such rapid growth, risk to overall quality of region
55
Q

wine sales of Ribera Del Duero (volume) and % exported

A
  • 600-700,000 hL
  • 2017 20% exported
    • Switzerland, US, Germany, Mexico & China
56
Q

Rueda DO shares a similar continental climate to Duero River Valley neighbours Toro to west and Ribera del Duero to east. What makes it different?

A
  • it makes almost entirely white wines
    • from local Verdejo and/or Sauvignon-Blanc
57
Q

Climate and vineyards of Rueda

A
  • continental: hot summers, cold winters, little rain
  • vineyards 700-800m - cool nights retain acidity
  • soil generally very stony/ some sand = free draining, low in nutrients, reducing vigour
  • key grape Verdejo, q drought tolerant
  • new vines VSP trellised: allows harvesting at night, cool picking and harvesting grapes
  • but 10% area v old bush vines on sand pre-phylloxera retained for quality of fruit
58
Q

flavour profile of Verdejo in Rueda

A
  • medium to med+ acidity (as cool nights), med alcohol
  • apple, pear, peach characteristics, often with herbal note (fennel), slight bitterness on finish
  • better, lees ageing (few mths to year) for body/texture
  • no malo to preserve acidity
  • more expensive (still mid-priced) often fermented and/or matured in oak giving more body, texture, aromatic complexity (toasty, smoky), good to very good (eg Ossian, Bodega Belondrade y Lurton)
  • sometimes blended with Sauvignon-Blanc
59
Q

wine making in Rueda

A
  • acceptable/ good cheapest made protectively, cool fermentation stainless steel, bottled to be sold soon after
  • cultured yeasts (as for most of Spain’s whites) i) for reliability and ii) to promote fruity flavours
  • mid-priced often lees aged with regular stirring few mths to year (body, texture) - good quality
  • best wines (still mid-price) fermented and/or matured in oak for texture/body, aromatic complexity (toasty, smoky)
  • avoid malo to retain acidity
  • sometimes blended with Sauvignon-Blanc
60
Q

why does Rueda focus so much on white wines?

A
  • in early 70s Marqués de Riscal winery in Rioja saw demand for inexpensive fresh, fruity whites and identified Verdejo in Rueda as opportunity if handled protectively
  • everyone making red (eg neighbouring DOs Toro & Ribeira del Duero)
  • this was catalyst to transform region (used to make oxidative, fortified)
  • 1996 - 2006 production x 2, since 2006 doubled again
61
Q

Wine business of Rueda

A
  • 1996 - 2006 production x 2, since 2006 doubled again
  • 60% made by local producers, but several wineries owned by companies outside region (eg Rioja/ Ribera producers have Rueda white in their portfolio)
  • sales up sevenfold in 20 years to 2016
  • mainly domestic 2016: 55,000 hL
  • export 8000hL
    • Netherlands, Germany, US, UK, Switzerland
62
Q

proportion of Verdejo or Sauvignon Blanc required in DO Rueda to label wine that variety

A

85% (though common for it to be 100% one variety)