Central Italy - Abruzzo

Question 1

One slide on Abruzzo

Answer 1

• Abruzzo is on east coast, south of the Marche and north of Puglia
• 5th largest region in Italy by volume, led by co-ops (ahead of Piedmont & Tuscany)
• Main grape is Montepulciano
• Region produces three main wines, a white, a rosé and a red
  
  • Trebbiano d’Abruzzo (crisp, high acid white, typically unoaked)
  • Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo (med to med(+) bodied rosé from Montepulciano)
  • Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (also made from Montepulciano)
• Also make single varietal Pecorino & Passerina

Question 2

Climate of Abruzzo

Answer 2

• Split between i) hillside vineyards under high Apennines and ii) flatter coastal zone
• Hillsides continental climate with cold snowy winters, warm, short summers cooled by mountains
  
  • these cooling influences mean a longer season for ripening grapes, slowing sugar accumulation and allowing more time for development of aromas and flavours
  • risk of spring frosts, autumn rains at harvest
• Coastal zone is maritime and Mediterranean (lower risk of frost/ harvest rain)
• Soils are more fertile, temperatures higher
  
  • better suited to high volume

Question 3

Viniculture in Abruzzo

Answer 3

• Used to be high yields on pergolas at low planting density (2500 vines ph)
  
  • high volume of medium to low concentration
• Now denser planting, newer forms of training, lower yields = better quality
  
  • coastal zone: cordon-trained spur-pruned or Guyot is more common - allows mechanisation (brings down cost of wine)
  • hills mainly by hand, though some tractor work. Harvesting by hand.

Question 4

one slide on Trebbiano Toscano (aka Ugni Blanc)

Answer 4

• Late budding white - avoids spring frost
• vigorous and high yielding (so v popular in past)
• prone to powdery mildew, eutypa dieback but otherwise good resistance
• reliable, ripens well in sunshine and heat, whilst retaining high acidity
• neutral flavours - medium(-) lemon and herbal (used for brandy in France as Ugni Blanc)
• Declining in popularity as lack of fruitiness and low flavour intensity/ demand for red wine in Tuscany
• High acidity makes it important part of sweet (apassimento method) Tuscan Vin Santo, where regularly blended with other local varieties (esp Malvasia)

Question 5

Top 6 grapes of Abruzzo by percentage of plantings

Answer 5

1. Montepulciano (over half of all plantings)
2. Trebbiano Toscano (about 20%)
3. Trebbiano Abruzzese (5% - Trebbiano d’Abruzzo is the DOC, though often confused)
4. Chardonnay
5. Sangiovese
6. Percorino

Question 6

Viniculture of Montepulciano (key black grape in Marche and Abruzzo)

Answer 6

• Key black grape for quantity and quality
• Often blended with Sangiovese (adds acidity) in Marche, though best wines 70-85% Montepulciano
• resistant to botrytis bunch rot and downy mildew, but prone to powdery mildew
• needs long season to ripen fully (otherwise bitter), also ripens unevenly within bunches = careful selection (added cost) or lower quality
• Prone to reduction (sulphur compounds) during winemaking: frequent aeration required
• deep ruby
• two styles made (in Marche and Abruzzo)
  
  • fruity, unoaked
  • intense, long aged in oak

Question 7

What are the two contrasting styles of Montepulciano made in both Marche and Abbruzzo?

Answer 7

1. Fruity, unoaked: ripe, medium intensity red cherry with no oak flavours, medium body, medium tannins (short maceration 4-5 days)
2. Intense, oak aged: deep ruby, more pronounced intensity of red cherry, black plum and oak aromas. The tannins will be medium (+) (long maceration up to 20 days) and some of the best wines will be aged in small oak vessels.

Question 8

Two things to be aware of in winemaking with Montepulciano

Answer 8

1. Prone to reduction (sulphur compounds) during winemaking, so frequent aeration is required
2. Be careful not to extract too much tannin

Question 9

One slide on Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC

Answer 9

• Can use either or both of Trebbiano Abruzzese (better) and Trebbiano Toscano (aka Ugni Blanc)
• High yields up to 98 hL/ha so many wines light to medium intensity at best
• Trebbiano d’Abruzzo is mid/late budding (avoids spring frost), vigorous, high yielding, good resistance except powdery mildew, reliable, ripens well heat yet retains high acidity.
• Suited to pergola - high training suits vine size and gives shade
• Made protectively, cool fermentation, ambient or cultured yeast. Malo blocked to keep acidity, aged in stainless steel
• most is acceptable to good neutral flavours - medium(-) lemon and herbal
• some outstanding (eg Valenti - 5% of grapes, 100% T Abruzzese, old 5500l oak, super premium, Masciarelli)

Question 10

One slide on Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC

Answer 10

• 100% Montepulciano
• Traditionally medium intensity pink (ie much deeper than modern rosés), but now lighter
• Either short maceration (up to 12 hrs: still produce medium colour, because rich in anthocyanins)
  
  • or direct pressing
  • or saignée (as by-product of red)
• medium to medium(+) body
• Valenti’s Cerasuolo is outstanding

Question 11

Describe a typical Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC

Answer 11

• minimum 85% Montepulciano
• deep ruby
• ripe, medium intensity (yields up to 98hL/ha) red-cherry and plum fruit with no oak flavours
• a medium to (+) body and medium(+) to high tannins.
• For the inexpensive style for earlier drinking, naturally high tannins of Montepulciano are softened by light extraction - a short 4-5 day maceration. Some producers also use 15% of softer Merlot or Primitivo.
• Higher quality wines will have extended time in barrel to soften tannins and also bottle ageing.
• Usually large ok, but some small French barriques for top wines (which will be very good and premium priced)

Question 12

the three levels of reds made from Montepulciano in Abruzzo

Answer 12

1. Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC must be grown on hilly sites
   
   • minimum 85% Montepulciano
   • yields up to 98hL/ha (at this maximum level will be light to medium concentration)
2. Wines from the 5 official DOC subzones
   
   • yields 66 hL/ha
   • 18mths ageing at least half in oak
3. Colline Teramane Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG (new, best quality zone)
   
   • yields (66hL/ha)
   • 2 years ageing, half in oak

Question 13

why do some people accuse Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC of lowering standards and facilitating the use of their wines to add colour and alcohol to red wines in other regions?

Answer 13

Because, unusually, the DOC wines do not have to be bottled in the region of origin

Question 14

wine business of Abruzzo

Answer 14

• Three quarters of production is from region’s 40 co-operatives
• Sold in Italy and exported to N Europe, USA & Canada, because good value for money
• Majority are inexpensive
• Small number of premium & super-premium wines in specialist shops in Italy & abroad
• Significant producers
  
  • Valenti (incl super premium)
  • Masciarelli
  • cooperative Cantina Tollo (exports 35% of its production)