North-East Italy Flashcards

1
Q

Grapes permitted in (all) Soave

A
  • at least 70% Garganega
  • up to 30% Trebbiano di Soave (aka Verdicchio) or Chardonnay
  • up to 5% any other authorised variety
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2
Q

Recioto di Soave DOCG

A
  • Grapes from delimited hilly zone (as Soave Superiore DOCG))
  • at least 70% Garganega, up to 30% Trebbiano di Soave or Chardonnay, up to 5% any other authorised
  • made from semi-dried grapes, so max yield low 36 hL/ha
  • rich, floral, honeyed, sweet wines with high balancing acidity
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3
Q

Soave Classico DOCG wine laws

A
  • Introduced as yields in other Soave DOCs very high (DOC105hL/ha, DOC Classico 98hl/ha)
  • Production tiny compared to other Soave DOCs
  • Grapes from delimited hilly zone (as Recioto)
  • at least 70% Garganega, up to 30% Trebbiano di Soave or Chardonnay, up to 5% any other authorised
  • Max yield still q high 70 hl/ha
  • Min alcohol 11.5%
  • Can sell after Sept 1 of year after harvest
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4
Q

Soave Classico DOC wine laws

A
  • Production is 20% of all Soave
  • Grapes from hilly Classico region
  • at least 70% Garganega, up to 30% Trebbiano di Soave or Chardonnay, up to 5% any other authorised
  • Max yield high 98 hl/ha
  • Min alcohol 11.0%
  • Can sell young, after Feb 1 year after harvest
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5
Q

Soave DOC wine laws

A
  • Production is 80% of all Soave
  • Grapes from entire Soave region
  • at least 70% Garganega, up to 30% Trebbiano di Soave or Chardonnay, up to 5% any other authorised
  • Max yield high 105 hl/ha
  • Min alcohol 10.5%
  • Can sell v young, after Dec 1 of year of harvest
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6
Q

Viticulture of Garganega

A
  • Vigorous, very productive
  • Late-ripening
  • Originally grown on pergolas, but now trellis
  • Sensitive to winter cold, mildew and botrytis
  • Handpicked on hillside sites, machine on plains
  • can produce fully flavoured wines at high yields (70hL/ha for best Soave DOCG) on favoruable sites
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7
Q

Flavour profile of Garganega

A
  • High acidity
  • Medium body
  • Medium intensity lemon, apple/pear, white pepper, stone fruit when v ripe
  • No oak unless v high end
  • Best examples age, develop almonds & honey
  • Good to v good, inexpensive to mid-priced
  • (Top wines v good to outstanding, mid to premium priced)
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8
Q

Climate of Trentino

A
  • in north of Italy in sight of Alps
  • moderate continental climate, but with cooling influences.
  • Day time temps high:
  • protected by mountains from cold north winds
  • moderating effect of Lake Garda to south and
  • heat building up on valley floor during growing season.
  • Cold air descends from mountains at night providing high diurnal, so grapes retain acidity and prolongs growing season, allowing flavours to intensify.
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9
Q

describe the two different areas of Soave

A
  • Soave is east of Verona and has
  • i) foothills in north
    • naturally cool soils (limestone and clay and/or volcanic rocks (basalt) which, together with altitude slow down ripening = full flavour plus high acidity
    • hand harvested
  • ii) flat plain to the south near River Adige
    • fertile, sandy and alluvial soils
    • machine harvested
    • fruity, med acidity, acceptable to good, drink young
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10
Q

wine business of Soave

A
  • small growers (av vineyard 2 ha) large bottlers (less 10% family bottled)
  • largest coop Cantina di Soave bottles half total
  • Soave peaked 60-70s but now Pinot Grigio (Veneto) dominates - poor Garganega replanted with Pinot Grigio
  • but Soave still 80% exported (Germany, UK) and value constant in last 10 yrs, despite lower vol: price increased
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11
Q

how has the Soave Consorzio recently tried to improve communciation of quality?

A
  • used to be Classico zone or name of producer (eg Pieropan, Inama)
  • now single vineyard classification across whole of Soave
    • follows study of soils, aspects, elevation and their combined effect of wine style
    • “cru” vineyards are all on hilly sites, but not all are in Classico zone
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12
Q

one slide on Veneto

A
  • extends from (west) south Lake Garda to (east) Venice, (north) foothills of Alps (south) flat plains of Po Delta
  • Italy’s biggest producing region (Prosecco & Pinot Grigio)
  • also DOC(G)s of Valpolicella and Soave
  • warm, moderate continental, moderate rainfall. Cooling from altitude (in foothills), Lake Garda breezes in west
  • flat plain moist air/fog from River Adige & broad Po River Valley, Italy’s largest flat land (regular sprays). Also Esca.
  • range of quality. Plain is rich, fertile high yields; hills better drainage, poorer soils, better quality
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13
Q

top 6 grapes of Veneto and whether grown on hills or plain

A
  1. Glera (Prosecco)
  2. Garganega (Soave, hills and plain)
  3. Merlot (cheap, plain, blend local varieties - local market)
  4. Corvina (Valpolicella, hills and plain)
  5. Pinot Gris (plain)
  6. Cabernet-Sauvignon (plain)
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14
Q

what is passito?

A

wine made from the appassimento process (semi-dried grapes) eg in Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG

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15
Q

the two distinctly different climates and soils of Valpolicella

A

i) foothills in north

  • naturally cool soils (limestone and clay or volcanic rocks which (plus altitude) slow down ripening = ripeness + high acidity wines of greater concentration
  • hand harvested

ii) flat plain to the south near River Adige

  • fertile, gravel, sandy and alluvial soils - warmer, so grapes are fruitier with less acidity, lower concentration
  • machine harvested
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16
Q

where is Valpolicella?

A

immediately north of Verona

in Veneto

in north east Italy

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17
Q

the four grape varieties of Valpolicella

A
  1. Corvina Veronese (Corvina, main grape of Valpolicella)
  2. Corvinone (“big Corvina” big clusters, but no relation!)
  3. Rondinella (useful in Recioto, as accumulates sugar fast)
  4. Molinara (blended in Bardolino)
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18
Q

viticulture of Corvina (Corvina Veronese)

A
  • vigorous, dependable, high yielding
  • mid to late ripening
  • thick skinned, so suitable for drying (Appassimento)
  • prone to downy mildew, botyrtis, esca, and sunburn
  • drought sensitive
  • often pergola trained, as doesn’t fruit on first few buds, shade prevents sunburn, height of pergola gives more air, reducing disease. Pergolas are cooler, but lose more water trhough evaporation.
  • if careful, can be grown on trellises.
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19
Q

flavour profile of Corvina

A
  • mostly blended in Valpolicella (and related wines)
  • violets, (sour) red cherries, red plums with herbal note
  • low to medium tannins
  • high acidity
  • a few single variety Corvinas (eg Allegrini’s La Poja, a concentrated barrel-aged red £75 92/100)
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20
Q

one slide on Corvinone

A
  • not related to Corvina (“big Corvina refers to big clusters)
  • good complement to Corvina - in blends it supplies tannins, while also contributing red cherry fruit flavours.
  • Must be hand harvested bunch by bunch as berries do not ripen uniformly (adds to cost)
  • Also dries well (appassimento)
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21
Q

one slide on Rondinella

A
  • very reliable and productive black grape in Valpolicella
  • can grow on variety of soils
  • Can be rather neutral with light, simple cherry fruit.
  • It accumulates sugar very fast and so is useful for Recioto
  • Good disease resistance, so good for drying (appassimento)
  • but prone to esca
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22
Q

one slide on Molinara

A
  • Black variety in Valpolicella
  • In blends it contributes acidity, red-berried fruit and lightness.
  • Important part (up to 40%) of the Bardolino blend
  • Produces pale wines so has fallen out of popularity
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23
Q

winemaking of inexpensive Valpolicella

A
  • aim to create fresh, fruity wine for early consumption
  • after crushing grapes, fermentation at controlled temp of 20-25oC to retain primary aromas
  • short maceration (5-7 days) for light to medium tannins
  • wines aged in stainless steel or large neutral oak barrels for 6-8 months before release
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24
Q

explain the appassimento method

A
  • it’s the process of natural partial dehydration of grapes resulting in higher concentration of sugars in the berries.
  • grapes often picked a little earlier to ensure no disease on berries - clean fruit is vital for this process.
  • Once picked, the bunches are hung up/ placed 1 deep in drying loft (may be specially designed room) for 3-4 months. Must be well aerated, ventilated and the temperature and humidity will be well controlled.
  • This is to ensure rot does not develop during the drying process.
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25
Q

what happens to the grapes during the appassimento method?

A
  • they lose 1/3 of their weight through water evaporation leads to higher levels of sugar, potential alcohol, acidity, anthocyanins (colour), tannins and flavour concentration
  • because all the grape components are concentrated, the resulting wines are kept in balance: v good quality
  • in addition, process causes chemical changes in grapes which can enhance complexity - dried fruit, more glycerol for softer mouthfeel
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26
Q

what is the next stage after the grapes are dried in the appassimento method?

A
  • the grapes are crushed and fermented in the usual way, albeit with the challenges of fermenting and extracting juice from semi-dried grapes
  • (not pressed, which is the method of removing the skins from the grapes)
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27
Q

how is Valpolicella Ripasso made?

A
  • make young fresh Valpolicella (want to retain fruit & aromatics), store cool for 4-6 mths
  • add young wine to unpressed grape skins (with some resid sugar) from end of fermentation phase of Amarone or Recioto. Yeasts in skins ferment the sugar and skins add more colour, flavour, tannins to the wine.
  • in addition may add up to 15% intense Amarone wine
  • press off skins, age in neutral to retain fruit - new oak flavours not desired or affordable in mid-priced wine
  • finished wine min 12.5% or 13% Superiore, often more.
28
Q

When can Valpolicella Ripasso DOC be released?

A

from Jan 1 two years after harvest

29
Q

flavour profile of Valpolicella Ripasso DOC?

A
  • mid to deep ruby
  • mid(+) to pronounced fresh and stewed red and black cherries, plums, floral and herb notes
  • dry, high acidity, med to full body, med(+) soft tannins
  • medium alcohol (min 12.5%, 13 for Superiore, oft higher)
  • medium to medium(+) finish, good to v good
  • made to be drunk from release (aged in neutral vessel) but can develop positively in bottle and take on tertiary characteristics
30
Q

flavour profile of Amarone dell Valpolicella DOCG?

A
  • two styles, traditionally off dry (5-10g/L res), modern dry
  • deep ruby, pronounced intensity cherry and dried fruit flavours, spice and wood notes
  • med(+) to high, ripe tannins, fresh red fruits, dried (figs, plums), plain chocolate, cloves, vanilla from oak balanced by high acidity, full bodied, high (15%) alcohol, smooth glycerol mouthfeel, long intense finish.
  • some have nutty, volatile, oxidative note
  • high volume merely good, but best are outstanding with concentration to develop more complexity with age
31
Q

flavour profile of Recioto dell Valpolicella DOCG

A
  • sweet style, deep ruby with pronounced cherry and plum fruit, both fresh and dried, spice and herbs
  • sweet (min 50g/L resid sugar, but usually much higher)
  • high acidity, full bodied, med(+) to high smooth tannins
  • pronounced intensity sweet, fresh, and dried red fruits, hints of spice
  • med alcohol, well-integrated, luscious mouthfeel, long, elegant finish
  • has concentration of fruit, tannins and acidity to develop over 20-30 years. V good to outstanding quality
32
Q

why has production of Valpolicella dropped significantly

(40% in the last decade or so)

A
  • because Ripasso and Amarone have become so popular
    • Ripasso x 4 since mid 1990w
    • Amarone x 6
    • Recioto remains a niche market
  • growers recieve 3 x the price for Amarone grapes v basic Valpolicella
  • 65% Amarone exported (Germany, US, Switzerland, UK)
33
Q

describe Pinot Grigio delle Venezie DOC

A
  • new DOC introduced 2017 replacing the IGP with stricter production requirements (max yield 152 to 126hL/ha)
  • grapes must be grown in the 3 regions of the Veneto, Fruili-Venezia Guilia and s Trentino (Trentino-Alto Adige)
  • this area produces 85% Italian PG and 40% world’s
  • new DOC proving popular with growers because yields still high and can charge more for DOC than IGP
  • light to med intens apple & lemon fruit, light to med(-) body, med alcohol, med(+) acidity, good to v good, inexp to mid price.
34
Q

what is the main grape of Lugana DOC (now called Turbiana)

A
  • Verdicchio (was called Trebbiano di Lugana)
35
Q

why does Bardolina DOC in the Veneto taste like Valpolicella?

A
  • because it is made from 35-80% of Corvina blends (though with up to 20% other varieties, max 10% of single eg 10% Merlot can boost red fruit character)
36
Q

Although Trentino and Alto Adige are technically one region, they are often considered separately due to marked differences, including the grape varieties grown there. Which grape variety is most widely grown in Alto Adige but not in Trentino?

A

Schiava

37
Q

one slide on Schiava

A
  • black grape, most grown (15%) in Alto Adige
  • typically pergola grown: natural vigour, high yields
  • pale ruby, perfumed violet and strawberry aromas, med to light body, low tannins
  • in Santa Magdalena DOC blended with 15% Lagrein for deeper colour and fuller body
38
Q

vineyards in the north of Italy were traditionally planted with high yielding plants at low densities. What was the system used and what were its benefits?

A
  • pergola
  • high yields
  • the vine canopy is trained high with grapes hanging down below a horizontal canopy of leaves
    • protected the grapes from sunburn
    • allowed air circulation, minimising risk of rot
39
Q

what is the more common system of trellising in northern Italy nowadays?

A
  • high density plantings using VSP training
    • allows mechanisation (unlike pergola system)
    • still gives good ventilation
    • vines in competition reduces yields and concentrates flavours and tannins
40
Q

when do the Italians still use the pergola system and why?

A
  • either when high acidity and low sugar levels are required (eg sparkling wine) and the high yields(lower quality) are a benefit
  • or when the wines will be made from dried grapes, which must be free from damage or disease (eg Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG)
41
Q

overview of the climate of northern Italy

A
  • vineyard regions located in foothills of the Alps and extensive plain of the River Po.
  • overall moderate; dry, short summers, Alps form a barrier length of Italian border and shelter vineyards from rain
  • local rivers, incl Po, and glacial lakes (eg Garda) moderate inland areas
  • those close to the sea can have higher rainfall, so fungal diseases more common
42
Q

what is the difference between DOP, DOC and DOCG in Italian wine law?

A
  • DOP (Denominazione di Origine Protetta) is PDO but not used as much as the other two
  • DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) subject to geographical boundaries, grape varieties & production methods
  • DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) in addition to requirments of DOC
    • must be bottled in area of production
    • subject to Ministry of Agriculture tasting
43
Q

what does Classico mean on an Italian wine label?

A
  • grapes solely from the original classified wine area (as so many have expanded); usually includes the best wines
44
Q

what does Riserva mean on an Italian wine label?

A
  • higher alcohol and longer ageing than the minimums stipulated by the appellation laws
45
Q

overview of Trentino-Alto Adige

A
  • Italy’s most north wine region, vineyards following River Adige from Alto Adige in foothills of Alps (town Bolzano) down to Trentino which ends east of Lake Garda
  • Alto Adige higher vineyards, cooler, ideal for aromatic whites (Pinot Grigio & Bianco, Gewurz, Sauv B, Chard and elegant light-bodied reds (Schiava, Lagrein, PN)
  • Trentino valley wider, vineyards on valley floor as well as sides, slightly warmer than Alto A. Whites from floor (Chard, Pinot Grigio) fuller bodied, riper; incl blacks Merlot and Teroldago. Those on slopes are like Alto A
46
Q

climate of Alto Adige

A
  • mild Alpine continental, vineyards 300-700m protected from cold winds by mountains to north
  • warm air currents in valleys, 300 sunshine days, large day/night temp diff = excellent ripening/ acidity retention
  • sufficient rain (low in winter, can be issue at harvest)
  • great variety of soils (volcanic porphyry, quartz, mica rock, Dolomitic limestone) for variety of grapes (sep card)
47
Q

grape growing in Alto Adige

A
  • pergola or Guyot
  • leaf picking to encourage exposed bunches to ripen, but careful with climate change - risks sunburn
  • growing zones according to topography, climate, soils eg
    • Bassa Atesina (south, warmer, all main varieties except Schiava. Muller-Thurgau at high altitude)
    • Oltradige inlc Lake Caldaro - Schiava. Merlot & Cab Sav in valleys. PN and whites at altitude
48
Q

compare grapes grown between Alto-Adige and Trentino

A
  • AA slightly more white than red, Trentino 75% white
  • REDS Top 3 AA: Schiava, Lagrein, Pinot Noir
  • Top 4 Trentino: Teroldego, Merlot, Marzemino, Lagrein
  • WHITES
    • Both regions grow Pinot Grigio most & Chardonnay
    • also Pinot Bianco, Sauv-Bl, Gewurz, Muller-Thurgau, Riesling
49
Q

why is Alto-Adige also known as Südtirol?

A
  • because most of the population speak German as a first language (South Tyrol)
  • all bottle capsules are branded “Sudtirol”
50
Q

white wine-making in the north of Italy is broadly similar across all regions. What is it and why?

A
  • soft pressing of grapes, fermenting the juice in stainless steel at low temperatures (12-16o) with commercial yeasts to retain primary fruit character
  • possibly briefy aged on lees, released promptly for their fruitiness
  • some top whites may be aged in small oak barrels, a small proportion new, for added layer of vanilla & spice
51
Q

how did Friuli become the go-to region for clean, unoaked whites from the late 60s?

A
  • Mario Schiopetto (and others) drew on German technical expertise (esp stainless steel for fermentation and ageing, temperature control, cultivated yeasts and, latterly, pneumatic presses)
52
Q

one slide on Teroldego (black cherry)

A
  • most grown black grape in white dominated Trentino
  • vigorous, mid-late ripening, deeply coloured, med tannin
  • good to v good, inexpensive to mid priced
  • once pergola for high yields, now more Guyot
  • best clones are 145 and 152 for intense aromas
  • best on sandy/ gravel soils in north (Teroldego Rotliano DOC)
  • oddity: if not grown there, cannot be bottled as Trentino DOC: must be Vini delle Dolomiti IGT (covers wines from Alto A & Trentino)
53
Q

name and describe the other two local black grapes in Trentino related to Teroldego

A
  • Marzemino (best, ripest trained on spurred cordons in Ziresi subzone on rich calcareous/clay soils
  • Lagrein (needs warm site/sun to ripen fully; often shorter maceration /oak aging to address bitterness, deep colour so used for rosés too)
  • both are
    • vigorous, mid-late ripening, deeply coloured, med tannin
    • good to v good, inexpensive to mid priced
54
Q

name the white grape grown in the Valley of the Lakes (the warmest area of Trentino DOC) which makes an unoaked wine with a hazelnut flavour and a semi-dried version called Vino Santo (not Van Santo)

A

Nosiola

55
Q

one side overview of Friuli

A
  • Italy’s most n-e region, bordering Austria and Slovakia
  • under 4% Italy’s wines, but known for high quality whites
  • Pinot Grigio is still 25%, but Fruilano more important.
  • International: Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauv-Bl, Cab Franc, Carmenere, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, Cab Sav
  • Local grapes: Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia di Istria, Verduzzo and Picolit (both used to make sweet wine)
  • others from Austria/Middle Europe: Riesling, Welschriesling (Riesling Italico), Gewurz, Muller-Thurgau, Blaufrankisch (called Franconia)
  • Huge range of styles and quality.
56
Q

what are the key similarities between all the white wine regions in north-east Italy?

A
  • all produce fresh, unoaked, mainly international, mainly single varietal whites
  • all produce inexpensive, high volume/early drinkers from warmer, flatter fertile plain areas (eg 85% of Italy’s Pinot Grigio)
  • all produce small premium high quality from higher/slope vineyards, diurnals, varied soils (Friuli Collio DOC Friulano, Veneto Soave Superiore Garganega, Trentino-Alto Adige Sauvignon-Blanc/ Pinot Bianco)
57
Q

why is Friuli-Venezia Giulia (commonly known as Friuli, thank God) influenced by German-speaking and Slavic countries?

A

because it borders both Austria and Slovakia

58
Q

climate of Friuli

A
  • two zones, flat plains and low hills
  • flat plains near Adriatic Sea: warm maritime climate, where warm sea air meets cool Alpine influences
  • rainfall 1200mm pa (1/3 more than Bordeaux), so humid
    • extra work in vineyard, organic viticulture difficult
  • everyday wines (esp Pinot Grigio & Merlot) higher yield on alluvial plain esp Grave del Friuli DOC
  • better quality Friuli Isonzo DOC (r bank river Isonzo)
  • best quality hillsides Collio DOC and Collio Orientali del Friuli DOC on compacted calcareous marl known as ponca with excellent drainage, 200m, but wind exposure lowers yields, raises quality
59
Q

where is the best expression of Fruilano (aka Sauvignon Vert) found?

A
  • hillsides of Collio DOC and Collio Orientali del Friuli DOC on compacted marl (ponca) with excellent drainage
  • some altitude (200m), slopes and wind exposure lowers yields (max 77hL/ha) raises quality, costs and price
  • Friulano good disease resistance (important with high rainfall) most commonly entirely steel to preserve aromatics but some lightly oaked and best will age
  • med(-) intensity floral/apple, med to high alcohol, med(+) acidity
  • typically good to v good, mid-priced to premium
60
Q

what is Oslavia, the small sub-region of Collio, famous for?

A
  • orange wine production (like neighbour Brda, Slovakia)
  • long-maceration (up to 8mths) on white skins then lomg ageing (2-6 ys) in large oak barrels.
  • Pioneers (return to trad wine-making) Josko Gravner (introduced amphora) Dario Princic & Stanko Radikon
  • wines are amber, orange or gold, pronounced citrus rind, marzipan & honey, muted varietal character, med tannins
  • prem priced, loved by somms, natural & adventurous
  • Ribolla Gialla is the star grape (citrus, pepper, high acidity), only grown on hillside Collio as otherwise too vigorous
61
Q

what do Josko Gravner, Dario Princic & Stanko Radikon share a commitment to

A
  • orange wine made in the traditional way….
    • organic methods in the vineyard
    • use of local varieties (esp Ribolla Gialla) alongside international
    • long maceration on skins
    • no temperature control during fermentation
    • long maturation in large format oak/ other wood
    • minimum or no fining or filtration
    • low or no added SO2
62
Q

one brief slide on Refosco

A
  • most planted local black grape in Friuli, but becoming more important as
    • diversifying from clean, modern, white dominance as Alto-Adige challenging at a lower price (and indeed inexpensive Pinot G across Italy/ cheaper E Europe)
    • local variety, point of difference
  • another vigorous variety, best on hillside with lower fertility. Late ripening. Red cherries with herbal aromas, high tannins best smoothed by time in barrel
63
Q

what do Colli Orientali del Friuli Picolit DOCG and Ramandolo DOCG have in common apart from their obscurity?

A
  • two of the four DOCGs in Friuli
  • both sweet wines
  • Picolit only 10-15 berries per bunch (as fruit set issues), so volumes tiny. Used to compete with Tokaj.
  • Ramandalo is air-dried from Verduzzo variety
64
Q

how important are co-operatives in north east Italy?

A
  • huge
  • In Trentino 80% (60% from just one, Cavit, 4600 growers)
  • Alte Adige 70%, emphasis on quality (av vineyard 1h, which drives economic need for better quality/ higher prices, but makes hand-picking more viable)
  • Veneto co-op Cantina di Soave bottles half all Soave
65
Q

wine laws in Alto Adige

A
  • proudly 98% DOC
  • 11 white and 7 black varieties permitted
  • within Alto Adige DOC
    • Bianco (min 75% Chard, Pinot Bl or Pinot Grigio - two must be present but not >70% of blend)
    • single variety min 85% of named variety
    • dual variety eg Cabernet-Lagrein in which both must be >15% of blend
  • max yields 90hL/ha (lower than Trentino)
66
Q

which Alto Adige sub-zone is devoted to Schiava?

A

Lago di Caldaro DOC