Southern Italy Flashcards
what 5 regions comprise WSET’s Southern Italy?
- Campania s of Lazio between w Med coast & Appenines
- Basilicata between Campania on west & Puglia on east
- Puglia“heel of Italy, s of Abruzzo, Med on 3 sides
- Sicily large island at the toe of Italy
- Sardinia island off Tuscan coast, south of Corsica
one slide on Falanghina
- Campania’s most grown white (2nd to black Aglianico)
- once workhorse variety, popular hospitality since 80s
- good disease resistance, but harvest date crucial, since fruit can shrivel at end of harvest
- mid to late ripening (autumn rains)
- medium intensity apple/ white peach, herbaceous (grass) notes, medium (+) acidity, unoaked, acceptable to very good quality, entry level to mid-price.
- Falanghina del Sannio DOC 1/3 plantings; Campi Flegrei Falanghina lower 12-13% alc, as coastal winds; both max yields 84 hL/ha
benefits and challenges of growing Primitivo (Zinfandel) in Puglia
- ripens early (often August) avoiding autumn rains
- early budding (spring frosts)
- prone to drought, poor flowering/ fruit set in rain/ humid
- variable vol challenge to supplying customers/ cashflow
- looser bunches/ smaller berries than California means more disease resistance
- typically uneven ripening in bunch, so strict sorting - cost
- accumulates sugar easily, so often high alcohol
- grapes tend to dry on vine near harvest (+ alcohol), so must pick date to avoid overly jammy, dried fruit flavours
vineyard management of Primitivo in Puglia
- older (deep) vines bush-trained, low density, providing some shade for the fruit and making most of low rainfall
- newer vines/ inexpensive wine are trellised (cordon trained or cane-pruned+ VSP) to enable mechanization
- early budding (spring frosts)
- ripens early (often August) avoiding autumn rains
- prone to drought, poor flowering/ fruit set in rain/ humid
- looser bunches/ smaller berries than California means more disease resistance
- typically uneven ripening in bunch, so strict sorting - cost
- pick date to avoid overly jammy, dried fruit flavours
wine-making of Primitivo in Puglia
- inexpensive vinified at warm fermentation temperature with maceration on skins 7-10 days to extract flavour, colour and medium to high tannin
- aged short period (6 mths) in stainless steel/ large casks
- premium wines macerated longer for greater structure
- often aged 12 mths in French barriques (cost)
- Primitivo di Manduria DOC Riserva min 9mths in wood, 2.5yrs age, 14% abv
differences between the two main DOCs for Primitivo in Puglia
- Primitivo di Manduria DOC min 85% Primitivo (as grape variety named) max yield 63hL/ha, Riserva aged 2.5 yrs, 9 mths in oak,
- (cooler up to 500m) Gioia del Colle DOC must be 50-60% Primitivo, blended with Montepulciano, Sangiovese and/or Negroamaro, up to 10% Malvasia. Max yield 52hL/ha, min 2 yrs aging (no wood requirement)
- both min 14% abv
- both full bodied, high alcohol
Flavour profile of Primitivo (Zinfandel) in Puglia
- dry
- med(+) to pronounced ripe to jammy red cherry and strawberry fruit, perhaps hints of prune
- med acidity
- med to med(+) tannins
- acceptable to very good (some outstanding)
- top producers Gianfranco Fino (Primitivo di Manduria), Polvanera (Gioia del Colle)
Primitivo in Puglia’s chequered history in 3 brief points
- originally used to add alcohol and body to wines from cooler regions further north
- suffered under the EU wine pull scheme, losing many old vines with quality potential.
- now more popular again, partly due to success of Californian Zinfandel
top six planted grapes in Puglia
- Sangiovese (15%) red
- Primitivo (14%) red
- Negroamaro (14%) red
- Montepulciano (11%) red
- Trebbiano Toscano (6%) white
- Trebbiano Giallo (4%)
climate of Puglia and effect on wine-growing
- “heel” of Italy, surrounded by Mediterranean on 3 sides
- hot Mediterranean climate, moderated by sea breezes
- well suited to volume wine production as
- low rain fall reduces fungal threat
- soils are fertile and irrigation is permitted
- still inexpensive vol:60% simply “wine”, <10% wine PDO
- historically added body/alcohol to cooler areas of Italy, now growers are seeking to raise quality and prices
- range of mainly black Italian + local grapes grown (esp Sangiovese, Primitivo, Negroamaro, Montepulciano)
wine business in Puglia
- inexpensive, large volumes: 60% simply “wine”
- <10% wine PDO
- co-ops very important
- invest in equipment and large enough to market throughout Italy eg Cantina du Palme 1000 members, access to 2500 ha vineyard
- quality recently driven by local companies and investment from well-established Italian wine cos eg Antinori at Tormaresca
one slide overview of Sicily
- toe of Italy, 1st wine making ancient Greek settlements
- produces large volume bulk, distinctive PDOs
- local varieties dominate (white Catarratto, black Nero d’Avola); fortified wine, Marsala popular
- generally warm Mediterranean climate, low rainfall means irrigation, esp in high volume production areas
- particular microclimates eg altitude on slopes of Etna
- local inexpensive whites are Catarratto, Grillo and Inzolia blended with each other or Chardonnay, fermented medium temp, 6 mths in steel, early release, primary fruit
top six grapes of Sicily (4 white, 2 red)
- Catarratto (1/3)
- Nero D’Avola 16% (black)
- Grillo (6%) Inzolia (6%)
- Syrah (4%) Chardonnay (4%)
- others incl Muscat of Alexandria (known as Zibibbo)
one slide on Catarratto
- white, most grown grape, 1/3 Sicily’s plantings
- high yielding, disease resistant
- light intensity lemon/ herbal notes
- high acidity
- medium alcohol
- inexpensive, acceptable to good quality
one slide on Grillo
- natural cross of Sicily’s Catarratto and Moscato
- white, 3rd most grown grape in Sicily
- q high yielding, heat & disease resistant - good for Sicily
- over-exposing bunches will lead to loss of aroma
- the must oxidises easily, so made protectively
- full bodies, med intenisty lemon and floral notes, med alcohol, high acidity
- usually good to very good, inexpensive to mid price
- Marco de Bartoli, early champion of the variety produces oak aged version, premium
viticulture of Nero D’Avola (aka Calabrese) in Sicily
- by far most planted black grape in Sicily (16% total)
- late-ripening, likes heat, oft grown close to ground to maximise heat, though OK in damper, cooler sites too.
- very vigorous (canopy manage, cost), powdery mildew, uneven flowering can affect yields
flavour profile of Nero d’Avola in Sicily
- medium to deep ruby colour, red cherry to black plum
- medium(+) to high tannins, medium to med(+) acidity
- high yields acceptable to good wines, stored 6 mths in stainless steel, inexpensive to mid priced
- low yields v good to outstanding, concentrated, typically aged in small oak, mid to premium priced
- top producers incl Gulfi
- usually single varietal, but blended with Frappato for Sicily’s only DOCG Caresuolo di Vittoria
name and describe Sicily’s only DOCG
- Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG
- rad and rosé
- red is 50-70% Nero D’Avola, 30-50% Frappato
- max yield 52hL/ha which means v concentrated
- Frappato adds fresh red strawberry fruit and herbals to Nero D’Avola’s black plums, high tannins and med+ acidity.
- top producers include Planeta and Cos