References from Essay Flashcards

1
Q

1) Quote about fashion and its complex nature

2) Reference

A

Rarely ever a spontaneous purchase, or reflection of supply and demand (Entwistle, 2000; Tokatli, 2011; Crewe (2013), fashion can be understood as a complex mélange of material and cultural production within which a plethora of economic, technological, commercial and aesthetic factors operate

2) Twigg (2013).

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2
Q

1) Quote about fashion and modern civilization

2) Reference

A

1) Fashion is an outstanding mark of modern civilisation and its domain continues to expand rather than diminish
2) Blumer (1969)

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3
Q

‘fertile ground for the proliferation of abuse’ reference

A

Solyom (2012)

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4
Q

1) Individuals purchasing identity line

2) Reference

A

1) Individuals ‘purchase’ an identity according to whichever brand message grabs one’s attention from the streams of print, visual and digital information that bombard consumers daily
2) Milburn (2015)

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5
Q

1) Opinion of Post modern fashion lacking meaning

2) Reference

A

For some, post-modern fashion is a mere “carnival of signs with no meanings attached”, an eclectic ‘bricolage’ haphazardly appropriated together from a variety of sources in an attempt to attribute authenticity to that, which supposedly is “no longer imbued with meaning”

2) Tseëlon (1995: 124)

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6
Q

1) Quote about heart of the rhetoric of fashion

2) Reference

A

1) Despite the abundance of cheap clothes readily available, at the heart of the rhetoric of fashion is the language of self-renewal
2) Twigg (2013)

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7
Q

1) Body and self-identity relationship

2) Reference

A

1) Here is an increasingly prominent relationship between the body and self-identity, as manifested in a growing tendency to treat the body as a ‘project’ through which a sense of self-identity is continuously constructed.
2) Shilling (1993) and Giddens (1991)

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8
Q

1) Dressing oneself and tool for self-management

2) Reference

A

1) Dressing oneself thus can be considered a tool for self-management through which one ‘performs’4 identities whilst acting back on the self, reinforcing and endorsing the identity we perform
2) Craik (1994)

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9
Q

1) Link between eroticism and fashion

2) Reference

A

1) Fashion is indeed closely linked to the erotic – to the extent that for some scholars, eroticism is the engine force of fashion and the key to its meaning and deep appeal
2) Twigg (2013)

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10
Q

Who wrote ‘Lolita’ ?

  • How are young girls portrayed?
A

Nabokov (1958)

  • as enticing and willing in their own sexual exploitation (which as fueled male fantasies)
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11
Q

1) Main Lolita article to reference

2) Central message from advertisers and the mass media to girls was that they should be…

A

1) Merskin (2004)

2) … sexually available, and prepared to be gazed upon as mere sexual objects

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12
Q

case study of Calvin Klein

A
  • In 1980, 15-yr old model Brooke Shields informed us nothing came between her and her Calvins” - however, CK flourished and media hysteria surrounding the brand focused upon whether the models were under-age and on the suitability of young boys and girls posing n beds with one another in their underwear
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13
Q

Accumulation theory

1) Reference
2) Description
3) Extension to foucauldian theory

A

1) DeFleur & Dennis (1994)
2) Suggests that if messages are diffused across media platforms, they are likely to have long-term effects on audiences, the negative effects of which include; high teen pregnancy rates, eating disorders and suicide
3) This accumulation process desensitizes the act of looking at females and normalizes them as sexually available

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14
Q

We have witnessed the advent of online activism ranging from ____ to ___, from the scale of the ___ to ___ scale

Reference

A
  • persuasive to confrontational
  • individual to collective scale

Postmes and Brunsting (2002)

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15
Q

1) Recently, the democratisation of fashion and the rise of street styles have…
2) References (2)

A

… challenged the dominance of class in sociological accounts of fashion and allowed for a ‘bottom-up’ diffusion of styles

2) Davis (1992); Crane (2000)

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16
Q

1) Birth of ‘homeless’ fashion

2) Celeb and fashion show

A

1) John Galliano’s spring 2000 couture collection for Christian Dior
2) Tyra Banks ‘will pose for change’ in 2006 and Vivienne Westwood featured models pushing shopping carts down the runway in her menswear show in 2010