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Restorative Art 2 > RA 2 Cosmetics > Flashcards

RA 2 Cosmetics Flashcards

1
Q

Goal of Cosmetics & Cosmetology

A

to simulate the natural, non-cosmetic look appearance of color of skin coming through of the deceased.

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2
Q

The purpose of restorative art

A

to recreate the natural form and color on the visible parts of a body

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3
Q

: Postmortem cosmetology accomplishes this recreation of natural form and color by:

A
  • Replacing color in the skin
  • Counteracting color changes in the skin caused by the graying
  • Covering discolorations in the skin
  • Accenting positive facial features.
  • De-emphasizing negatively appearing features.
  • Compensating for artificial funeral home lighting.
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4
Q

An embalmer should try to recreate a natural appearance by using the ___ amount of cosmetics as necessary.

A

least

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5
Q

: a natural, non-cosmetic effect… simulating the appearance of color coming from within the skin

A

Naturalism in Cosmetology

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6
Q

Identify Differences In:

  1. Human complexions
  2. Highlight & shadow areas
  3. Warm color areas
A

Two Methods of Complexion Coloring:

  1. INTERNAL
  2. EXTERNAL
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7
Q

___ method involves the use of an arterial injection solution that contains a dye. Imparts pinkish color to skin and counteracts the gray color of formaldehyde on tissue & blood. Dis advantage is can be blotchy (uneven) distribution of arterial fluid to tissue.

A

Internal Method of Complexion Coloring

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8
Q

___ method of coloration is through the application of cosmetics to skin and embalmer can choose rather to use creams, powders, or liquids or all 3.

A

External Method of Complexion Coloring

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9
Q

3 Types of external coloring

A

Creams
Powder cosmetics
Liquid cosmetics

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10
Q

semi-solid consistency

A

Creams

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11
Q
  • solid substance in the state of fine, loose particles, produced by crushing or grinding
A

Powder cosmetics

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12
Q
  • fluid colorant in which pigments are dissolved or suspended.
A

Liquid cosmetics

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13
Q

Classification of Cosmetics

A
  1. Transparent
  2. Translucent
  3. Opaque
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14
Q

– transmitting rays of light through its substance so that a body situated beyond or behind it can be distinctly seen. (Liquid / Cream / Powder)

A

Transparent

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15
Q
  • (somewhat transparent) transmitting light but not causing sufficient diffusion to eliminate perception of distinct images. (Liquid / Cream / Powder)
A

Translucent

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16
Q

(NOT transparent or translucent) not allowing light to pass through, concealing cosmetic. (Liquid / Cream)

A

Opaque

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17
Q 
Transparent Liquid Pros					
Does not cake				
Does not rub off			
Dries quickly				
Easily removed from hair
A 
Transparent Liquid Cons
limited color choice
does not cover discoloration
does not cover wax well
collect in deep pores & appear darker
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18
Q

Opaque Cream Pros

many help prevent dehydration
Choice of thickness			
Covers discoloration			
Covers wax				
Mixes with wax
A

Opaque Cream Cons

can look pasty
can color hair
clumps
rubs off easily
powder application to dry
stain clothing
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19
Q

4 Colors needed to match (reproduce) skin color

A
  1. DARK BROWN
  2. YELLOW
  3. RED
  4. WHITE
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20
Q

Skin Pigments

A
  1. Melanin:
  2. Carotene:
  3. Hemoglobin:
  4. Ruddy:
  5. Florid:
  6. Swarthy:
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21
Q

brown to black-brown pigment of the hair and skin, in all races

A

Melanin

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22
Q

yellow pigment of skin, found in adipose (fat) tissue

A

Carotene

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23
Q

red pigment gives blood color; bright red gives pinker look skin and darker red appear bluish

A

Hemoglobin

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24
Q

red complexion

A

Ruddy

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25
Q

flushed with red

A

Florid

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26
Q

dark-colored complexion

A

Swarthy

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27
Q

Pigments of the skin:

A

cells produce melanin, the more melanin, the darker the skin.

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28
Q

the color and texture of the skin within and under the epidermis and dermis

A

Complexion

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29
Q

– heredity absence of pigment in the skin, hair and eyes.

A

Albinism

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30
Q

– pigment that gives the blood color; bright red gives pinker look skin and darker red appear bluish

A

Hemoglobin

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31
Q

– uneven concentrations of melanin appearing as a dark spot usually on face. Not considered a discoloration that needs covering

A

Freckles

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32
Q

Normal Complexion variables

A
  1. AGE – skin color becomes duller and grayer
  2. CLIMATE – abundance or lack of sunshine will change the melanin of the skin
  3. HEALTH – degree of redness of the complexion is affected by quantity of blood in superficial capillaries
  4. GENETICS – determined in part by the genes we are born with.
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33
Q

unusual deviations from one’s normal complexion due to: Blood discoloration & Pigmentary discoloration

A

Abnormal Complexion Variable

34
Q

– escape of blood into the intercellular spaces due to trauma or hypostasis.

A

Blood discoloration

35
Q

Blood discoloration

A
  • Ecchymosis: bruise purple
  • Contusion: aka Ecchymosis
  • Post mortem lividity (livor mortis)
  • Hemolysis (actually post mortem stain)
36
Q

Pigmentary discoloration

A
  • Yellow to greenish discoloration of jaundice
  • Bronze discoloration of Addison’s disease
  • Green discoloration – early decomposition
  • Gray discoloration – caused by the arterial fluid “formaldehyde gray”
  • Purple caused by postmortem stain, hospital markings
  • Yellow–brown – caused by dehydration
  • Cherry red – caused by carbon monoxide poisoning
37
Q

Changes in skin moisture

A
  • From the sallow appearance of emaciation
  • To light and medium browns, indication of dehydration
  • To darker browns, typical of desiccation of the tissues
  • To dark brown and black, of friction thermal & chemical burns
  • To putty gray, of embalming fluids
38
Q

complexion cosmetic, base coat, 1st layer of makeup , conceals minor imperfections; may act as moisturizer & add color to skin

A

Foundation:

39
Q

cheek color (cream/powder) & other warm areas to impart natural color

A

Blush/Rouge:

40
Q

color lips (stick/cream)

A

Lip color:

41
Q

darken the eyelashes

A

Mascara:

42
Q

colored cosmetic in powder form for upper eyelid

A

Eye Shadow

43
Q

cosmetic liquid, cake, or pencil applied as line where eyelashes join eyelid

A

Eyeliner:

44
Q

cosmetic soft solid powdered form to give color to eyebrows

A

Eyebrow pencil:

45
Q

Methods of applying external

A 
cosmetics 
Gloved hand, 
Brush, 
Sponge, 
Puff/pad, 
Spray.
46
Q

Cosmetic Brushes

A
  1. Purpose of Operation:
  2. Style of Ferrule:
  3. Setting Compound:
  4. Design of Handle:
47
Q

going to be used for and not the way it looks

A

.Purpose of Operation:

48
Q

metal part where brush hair fastened on end of handle

A

Style of Ferrule

49
Q

determined by type of brush hair, will not shed when correct & vulcanized in rubber or bakelite compound.

A

Setting Compound

50
Q

proper balance & feel from polished finish, weight, length, and shape
Should be selected according to quality and use. Should be springy in character and securely set in ferrule so permanently holds its shape.

A

Design of Handle

51
Q

Cosmetic Brushes

A
  • Spreading brushes
  • Stippling brushes
  • Powder Dusting & Tampering brushes
  • Tinting brushes
  • Blending, Lining, Highlighting brushes
52
Q

from tail of Kolinsky (Red Tartar Marten)

finest quality of hair, uniform in length, strength, thickness, and spring. Price increase as length increases

A

• Red Sable

53
Q

from tail of Wood Marten/Stone Marten/Civet-Cat;

black with white bristles and very useful

A

• Black Sable

54
Q

from ears of Oxen of different qualities

; hair is light or dark in color, springy in character, better quality brushes

A

• Ox Hair

55
Q

from Camel Hair (wool)

unsuited and not used in cosmetics; soft silky fine hair & most widely known name to general public

A

• Camel Hair

56
Q

from Russian Fitch or North American Skunk

color hair is black with grey or white end tips. for hair & ferrule (shape) of brush

A

• Fitch Hair

57
Q

from neck ridge of Badger of Turkey & Southern Russia

; color is white with black stripes 4th way down then white again; stiffer with lots of spring

A

• Badger Hair

58
Q

from back & chin whiskers of Goat

rather coarse & used in less expensive brushes

A

• Goat Hair

59
Q

“China Bristle” from Hogs & Boars worldwide
different colors & grades & lengths; bristle most common to public is classified as “China Bristle” white and good quality.

A

• Bristle

60
Q

from Nylon Bristle

high gloss & resilient texture; NOT recommended for postmortem cosmetic cause of stiffness

A

• Synthetic Bristle

61
Q

Foundations

  1. Liquid,
  2. Cake powder,
  3. Cream in a jar,
  4. cream in a stick.
A
  • May be applied with brush, sponge, or fingers
  • Light skin choose shade darker to more accurately mimic normal skin color
  • Darker skin should match skin color
  • Blend into skin to avoid pasty look
  • Blend short distance into non-foundation area to avoid distinct line of demarcation
62
Q

Blush or Rouge (over foundation)

  1. Liquid & Cream: most common in mortuary cosmetology; use brush, sponge, or fingers before drying powder
  2. Cake powder: use brush, cotton puff or pad before drying powder
  3. Loose powder: use cotton puff or brush
A
  • Used to recreate the natural red coloring in warm color areas of skin caused by blood
  • Light color muted pink , small beige
  • Medium color warmer pink, brownish tint
  • Dark color rich colors ie: cinnamon, nutmeg, reddish brown
63
Q

Warm color areas of the skin FACE –

A
  • cheeks,
  • chin,
  • ears,
  • mucous membranes of the lips
  • forehead on males.
64
Q

Warm color areas of the skin THE HANDS –

A
  • knuckles,
  • fingernails,
  • cuticles
65
Q

Blush to the cheeks

A
  • YOUNG Child
  • OLDER child
  • YOUNG or middle aged child
  • ELDERLY adults
  • ALL AGES
66
Q

– pat of blush, front plane of the cheek below the center of the eye.

A

YOUNG Child

67
Q

–point halfway between the center of the eye and the end of the line of closure.

A

OLDER child

68
Q

– below the end of the line of eye closure

A

YOUNG or middle aged child

69
Q

– pat of color moves down the cheek below the frontal cheekbone.

A

ELDERLY adults

70
Q

– blush to chin, blush to ear, blush to forehead, blush to hand, blush to adult cheek.

A

ALL AGES

71
Q

– defines as a cosmetic that is used to color the mucous membrane of the lips. No one color should be used on lips for all bodies.

A

LIP Color

72
Q

Types of lip color

  1. liquid,
  2. cream in a jar,
  3. cream in stick form
A
  • Creams made dual purpose ie: blush/rouge or lip color
  • Liquid & cream is translucent, no concealing, not adhere to waxed areas
  • Lip color composed of 3 complexions: red, melanin, carotene
  • Melanin is key element to adjusting lip cosmetics properly
  • Must be clean, dry, & loose dead or fever-blistered skin should be removed
  • Use small chisel-shaped brush
  • Not naturally symmetrical
  • Apply after draw line from line of closure toward lip line in vertical strokes
73
Q
  • One of most expressive features of face; slightest change will affect entire facial appearance.
  • Usually grows angled/obliquely upward and outward towards the distal edge of the brow. In youth follow well-defined line of supraorbital margin (most flattering than straight or too slanted). In advance age growth pattern change and become thinner.
  • Starts medial from wing of nose to and ends lateral past lateral end of eye up to the brow.
  • Remove using tweezers or forceps one hair at a time
  • Eyebrow pencil make look longer following natural direction of growth
A

Eyebrows

74
Q

Types of eye shadow

  1. soft powder,
  2. cake powder,
  3. liquid cream,
  4. cream sticks.
A
  • Brush or sponge tip applicator to apply eye shadow.
  • Pressed powders are easiest to use.
  • Apply from inner to outer blending up and outward blending to remove line of demarcation if apparent in different colors
75
Q

• used to create a line on the eyelid close to the lashes to make the eyes appear larger and the lashes longer.

A

Eyeliner

76
Q

TYPES of eye liner

  1. Liquid, very fine brush
  2. Cake, very fine damp brush or drop of water
  3. Pencil, sharp soft point
A

1

77
Q

TYPES of Mascara

  1. Cake, wet brush or wet cake
  2. Semi-liquid, wand applicator with bottle or tube
A

Mascara
• used to darken eyelashes
• most useful black or dark brown
• Start at roots of lashes and work out to tip

78
Q
  • Used to dry and set cosmetics
  • Absorbs oil from cream foundation or blush & reduces shiny moist look
  • Allows cosmetics to adhere better to skin, difficult to rub off
  • Most embalmers prefer loose than cake as easy to control & remove
  • Pink face pink powder increase pinkness & yellow reduce it
A

Powders

79
Q 
Types of powders
1.	Cake
2.	Loose
Color of powders
1.	White 
2.	Tinted – yellow, pink, brown, black
A

Powder applicators

  1. Brush
  2. Pad, pressed powder, do not rub in
  3. Puff
  4. Cotton ball
  5. Atomizer
80
Q

Corrective Cosmetizing

A
  • Ideal face shape is oval
  • Area of face lightened (highlighted), it appears emphasized or brought forward
  • Area of face darkened (shadowed), it appears to recede
  • Corrected shaping not practiced for everyone
  • Too thin & full lips, cover with foundation then draw new line & color
  • Too wide nose light bridge & dark sides Too thin nose dark bride & light sides
  • Too long nose dark tip & wing Too short dark sides & light tip
81
Q

– hand – held applicator, compressor and hose, cosmetics.

A

Spray Cosmetics

Restorative Art 2 (14 decks)

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