RA 2 Cosmetics Flashcards
Goal of Cosmetics & Cosmetology
to simulate the natural, non-cosmetic look appearance of color of skin coming through of the deceased.
The purpose of restorative art
to recreate the natural form and color on the visible parts of a body
: Postmortem cosmetology accomplishes this recreation of natural form and color by:
- Replacing color in the skin
- Counteracting color changes in the skin caused by the graying
- Covering discolorations in the skin
- Accenting positive facial features.
- De-emphasizing negatively appearing features.
- Compensating for artificial funeral home lighting.
An embalmer should try to recreate a natural appearance by using the ___ amount of cosmetics as necessary.
least
: a natural, non-cosmetic effect… simulating the appearance of color coming from within the skin
Naturalism in Cosmetology
Identify Differences In:
- Human complexions
- Highlight & shadow areas
- Warm color areas
Two Methods of Complexion Coloring:
- INTERNAL
- EXTERNAL
___ method involves the use of an arterial injection solution that contains a dye. Imparts pinkish color to skin and counteracts the gray color of formaldehyde on tissue & blood. Dis advantage is can be blotchy (uneven) distribution of arterial fluid to tissue.
Internal Method of Complexion Coloring
___ method of coloration is through the application of cosmetics to skin and embalmer can choose rather to use creams, powders, or liquids or all 3.
External Method of Complexion Coloring
3 Types of external coloring
Creams
Powder cosmetics
Liquid cosmetics
semi-solid consistency
Creams
- solid substance in the state of fine, loose particles, produced by crushing or grinding
Powder cosmetics
- fluid colorant in which pigments are dissolved or suspended.
Liquid cosmetics
Classification of Cosmetics
- Transparent
- Translucent
- Opaque
– transmitting rays of light through its substance so that a body situated beyond or behind it can be distinctly seen. (Liquid / Cream / Powder)
Transparent
- (somewhat transparent) transmitting light but not causing sufficient diffusion to eliminate perception of distinct images. (Liquid / Cream / Powder)
Translucent
(NOT transparent or translucent) not allowing light to pass through, concealing cosmetic. (Liquid / Cream)
Opaque
Transparent Liquid Pros Does not cake Does not rub off Dries quickly Easily removed from hair
Transparent Liquid Cons limited color choice does not cover discoloration does not cover wax well collect in deep pores & appear darker
Opaque Cream Pros
many help prevent dehydration Choice of thickness Covers discoloration Covers wax Mixes with wax
Opaque Cream Cons
can look pasty can color hair clumps rubs off easily powder application to dry stain clothing
4 Colors needed to match (reproduce) skin color
- DARK BROWN
- YELLOW
- RED
- WHITE
Skin Pigments
- Melanin:
- Carotene:
- Hemoglobin:
- Ruddy:
- Florid:
- Swarthy:
brown to black-brown pigment of the hair and skin, in all races
Melanin
yellow pigment of skin, found in adipose (fat) tissue
Carotene
red pigment gives blood color; bright red gives pinker look skin and darker red appear bluish
Hemoglobin
red complexion
Ruddy
flushed with red
Florid
dark-colored complexion
Swarthy
Pigments of the skin:
cells produce melanin, the more melanin, the darker the skin.
the color and texture of the skin within and under the epidermis and dermis
Complexion
– heredity absence of pigment in the skin, hair and eyes.
Albinism
– pigment that gives the blood color; bright red gives pinker look skin and darker red appear bluish
Hemoglobin
– uneven concentrations of melanin appearing as a dark spot usually on face. Not considered a discoloration that needs covering
Freckles
Normal Complexion variables
- AGE – skin color becomes duller and grayer
- CLIMATE – abundance or lack of sunshine will change the melanin of the skin
- HEALTH – degree of redness of the complexion is affected by quantity of blood in superficial capillaries
- GENETICS – determined in part by the genes we are born with.
unusual deviations from one’s normal complexion due to: Blood discoloration & Pigmentary discoloration
Abnormal Complexion Variable
– escape of blood into the intercellular spaces due to trauma or hypostasis.
Blood discoloration
Blood discoloration
- Ecchymosis: bruise purple
- Contusion: aka Ecchymosis
- Post mortem lividity (livor mortis)
- Hemolysis (actually post mortem stain)
Pigmentary discoloration
- Yellow to greenish discoloration of jaundice
- Bronze discoloration of Addison’s disease
- Green discoloration – early decomposition
- Gray discoloration – caused by the arterial fluid “formaldehyde gray”
- Purple caused by postmortem stain, hospital markings
- Yellow–brown – caused by dehydration
- Cherry red – caused by carbon monoxide poisoning
Changes in skin moisture
- From the sallow appearance of emaciation
- To light and medium browns, indication of dehydration
- To darker browns, typical of desiccation of the tissues
- To dark brown and black, of friction thermal & chemical burns
- To putty gray, of embalming fluids
complexion cosmetic, base coat, 1st layer of makeup , conceals minor imperfections; may act as moisturizer & add color to skin
Foundation:
cheek color (cream/powder) & other warm areas to impart natural color
Blush/Rouge:
color lips (stick/cream)
Lip color:
darken the eyelashes
Mascara:
colored cosmetic in powder form for upper eyelid
Eye Shadow
cosmetic liquid, cake, or pencil applied as line where eyelashes join eyelid
Eyeliner:
cosmetic soft solid powdered form to give color to eyebrows
Eyebrow pencil:
Methods of applying external
cosmetics Gloved hand, Brush, Sponge, Puff/pad, Spray.
Cosmetic Brushes
- Purpose of Operation:
- Style of Ferrule:
- Setting Compound:
- Design of Handle:
going to be used for and not the way it looks
.Purpose of Operation:
metal part where brush hair fastened on end of handle
Style of Ferrule
determined by type of brush hair, will not shed when correct & vulcanized in rubber or bakelite compound.
Setting Compound
proper balance & feel from polished finish, weight, length, and shape
Should be selected according to quality and use. Should be springy in character and securely set in ferrule so permanently holds its shape.
Design of Handle
Cosmetic Brushes
- Spreading brushes
- Stippling brushes
- Powder Dusting & Tampering brushes
- Tinting brushes
- Blending, Lining, Highlighting brushes
from tail of Kolinsky (Red Tartar Marten)
finest quality of hair, uniform in length, strength, thickness, and spring. Price increase as length increases
• Red Sable
from tail of Wood Marten/Stone Marten/Civet-Cat;
black with white bristles and very useful
• Black Sable
from ears of Oxen of different qualities
; hair is light or dark in color, springy in character, better quality brushes
• Ox Hair
from Camel Hair (wool)
unsuited and not used in cosmetics; soft silky fine hair & most widely known name to general public
• Camel Hair
from Russian Fitch or North American Skunk
color hair is black with grey or white end tips. for hair & ferrule (shape) of brush
• Fitch Hair
from neck ridge of Badger of Turkey & Southern Russia
; color is white with black stripes 4th way down then white again; stiffer with lots of spring
• Badger Hair
from back & chin whiskers of Goat
rather coarse & used in less expensive brushes
• Goat Hair
“China Bristle” from Hogs & Boars worldwide
different colors & grades & lengths; bristle most common to public is classified as “China Bristle” white and good quality.
• Bristle
from Nylon Bristle
high gloss & resilient texture; NOT recommended for postmortem cosmetic cause of stiffness
• Synthetic Bristle
Foundations
- Liquid,
- Cake powder,
- Cream in a jar,
- cream in a stick.
- May be applied with brush, sponge, or fingers
- Light skin choose shade darker to more accurately mimic normal skin color
- Darker skin should match skin color
- Blend into skin to avoid pasty look
- Blend short distance into non-foundation area to avoid distinct line of demarcation
Blush or Rouge (over foundation)
- Liquid & Cream: most common in mortuary cosmetology; use brush, sponge, or fingers before drying powder
- Cake powder: use brush, cotton puff or pad before drying powder
- Loose powder: use cotton puff or brush
- Used to recreate the natural red coloring in warm color areas of skin caused by blood
- Light color muted pink , small beige
- Medium color warmer pink, brownish tint
- Dark color rich colors ie: cinnamon, nutmeg, reddish brown
Warm color areas of the skin FACE –
- cheeks,
- chin,
- ears,
- mucous membranes of the lips
- forehead on males.
Warm color areas of the skin THE HANDS –
- knuckles,
- fingernails,
- cuticles
Blush to the cheeks
- YOUNG Child
- OLDER child
- YOUNG or middle aged child
- ELDERLY adults
- ALL AGES
– pat of blush, front plane of the cheek below the center of the eye.
YOUNG Child
–point halfway between the center of the eye and the end of the line of closure.
OLDER child
– below the end of the line of eye closure
YOUNG or middle aged child
– pat of color moves down the cheek below the frontal cheekbone.
ELDERLY adults
– blush to chin, blush to ear, blush to forehead, blush to hand, blush to adult cheek.
ALL AGES
– defines as a cosmetic that is used to color the mucous membrane of the lips. No one color should be used on lips for all bodies.
LIP Color
Types of lip color
- liquid,
- cream in a jar,
- cream in stick form
- Creams made dual purpose ie: blush/rouge or lip color
- Liquid & cream is translucent, no concealing, not adhere to waxed areas
- Lip color composed of 3 complexions: red, melanin, carotene
- Melanin is key element to adjusting lip cosmetics properly
- Must be clean, dry, & loose dead or fever-blistered skin should be removed
- Use small chisel-shaped brush
- Not naturally symmetrical
- Apply after draw line from line of closure toward lip line in vertical strokes
- One of most expressive features of face; slightest change will affect entire facial appearance.
- Usually grows angled/obliquely upward and outward towards the distal edge of the brow. In youth follow well-defined line of supraorbital margin (most flattering than straight or too slanted). In advance age growth pattern change and become thinner.
- Starts medial from wing of nose to and ends lateral past lateral end of eye up to the brow.
- Remove using tweezers or forceps one hair at a time
- Eyebrow pencil make look longer following natural direction of growth
Eyebrows
Types of eye shadow
- soft powder,
- cake powder,
- liquid cream,
- cream sticks.
- Brush or sponge tip applicator to apply eye shadow.
- Pressed powders are easiest to use.
- Apply from inner to outer blending up and outward blending to remove line of demarcation if apparent in different colors
• used to create a line on the eyelid close to the lashes to make the eyes appear larger and the lashes longer.
Eyeliner
TYPES of eye liner
- Liquid, very fine brush
- Cake, very fine damp brush or drop of water
- Pencil, sharp soft point
1
TYPES of Mascara
- Cake, wet brush or wet cake
- Semi-liquid, wand applicator with bottle or tube
Mascara
• used to darken eyelashes
• most useful black or dark brown
• Start at roots of lashes and work out to tip
- Used to dry and set cosmetics
- Absorbs oil from cream foundation or blush & reduces shiny moist look
- Allows cosmetics to adhere better to skin, difficult to rub off
- Most embalmers prefer loose than cake as easy to control & remove
- Pink face pink powder increase pinkness & yellow reduce it
Powders
Types of powders 1. Cake 2. Loose Color of powders 1. White 2. Tinted – yellow, pink, brown, black
Powder applicators
- Brush
- Pad, pressed powder, do not rub in
- Puff
- Cotton ball
- Atomizer
Corrective Cosmetizing
- Ideal face shape is oval
- Area of face lightened (highlighted), it appears emphasized or brought forward
- Area of face darkened (shadowed), it appears to recede
- Corrected shaping not practiced for everyone
- Too thin & full lips, cover with foundation then draw new line & color
- Too wide nose light bridge & dark sides Too thin nose dark bride & light sides
- Too long nose dark tip & wing Too short dark sides & light tip
– hand – held applicator, compressor and hose, cosmetics.
Spray Cosmetics
