Poultry & Aviary Birds > Prac Exam > Flashcards
Prac Exam Flashcards
Taking blood
Which bones are pneumatic?
Humerus, femur, keel
If the heart fills more than 60% of the thoracic cavity = heart disease
Testicles of a duck, normal– care not to diagnose testicular tumour
Hernia in a duck with barium contrast
Peritonitis, ascites– because you can’t make out the organs
* calcification is the gizzard
* Bones are calcified
Malunion of the humerus
Osteomyelitis or osteosarcoma– take cytology
Hypocalcaemia or hypothyroidism, etc.?
Equipment, history and clinical symptoms post mortem
euthanasia
post mortem system
* weigh the birds, external exam of plumage, skin and various appendages
* Soaked in water and detergent to minimize risk of cross contamination and also to facilitate the PM process
Submission of specimens and report
Best foods to feed birds?
* studying them in the wild, many of the foods they do not have access to in the wild e.g. seeds
How do birds e.g. Australian parrots get protein?
Legumes- for proteins (seed diets are low in vitamins, minerals, and amino acids
Why are pellets helpful?
Can’t pick out what they want, receive all the nutrients
Eclectus unique birds?
Larger need for vitamin A
Cockatoos or cockatiels do not need??
Do not need fruit
Australian companies that make bird food that aren’t top end but good quality feed?
Passwell and Vetfarm
Why feed birds cuddlefish?
Calcium, important to soak and wash well as covered in high concentration of salt… better to buy from a store
Legumes that don’t need to be cracked, who would eat??
pigeon (with a mineral block, things they add in the water)
Food: River sand? Shell grit?
River sand- insoluble grit– for the gizzard for birds that eat hard foods or grainy foods
Shell grit– Calcium
Common problem with backyard chicken diets?
Need to supplement with Calcium– high quality e.g. liquid Calicium as it is absorbed quickly… but you can overdose
General diet ideas….
Pellets + Veggies
Unique Budgie issues
Goiter… budgie seed is heavily fortified with iodine, so generally not an issue anymore
* Budgies you can get away with feeding seed, they are tolerant of low quality feeds
Common treatments post findings in a crop wash?
*Baytril- Enrofloxacin– better with gram negatives (also Mycobacterium, Chlamydia)
Amoxyclav- gram positives
*Itraconazole, Fluconazole, Amphotericin B- fungal, yeast
*Ronidazole, Metronidazole- protozoa (Trichomoniasis)
Bird physical exam
Examine them in their cage relaxed- notice droppings, take a history including feed and husbandry
Weigh them in clinic– in towel or may have perch on scale
Looking at head– making sure feathers aren’t matted above nostrils
Look inside the mouth at the choanae– slit– look for the papillae
Ensure no white or yellow plaques in mouth may indicate– vitamin A found in fruits and veggies- not in seed diets–affects respiratory, digestive and repro tracts– white patches or plaques on tongue or mouth…. C. ablicans (birds on broad spectrum antibiotics)– weight loss, lethargy, dull plumage.– white plaques in oral cavity. Tritrichomonas causes respitory and GI disease in birds– or Canker (pigeons and doves)–white or yellow plaques
Seeds and fluids in crop
Keel bone– looking at muscling to condition score– U shape too thin– W shape too fat
Check feet for pressure sores
Abdomen for eggs or tumours + vent to ensure no staining
Uropygial gland– preening gland
Pressing and releasing wing vein to check blood pressure
Crop wash
Epithelial cells- tell us we have a diagnostic sample
** Budding yeast– turn into a fulminant yeast infection (lots)… non budding yeast- not concerned
** Yeast, Flagellates (protozoa), Bacteria– likely pathological
** 3 finger hold on neck
* Crop sits at the thoracic inlet– so premeasure…. otherwise you’d be taking an oesophageal sample
* Aiming for right thumb
* Start on the birds left hand side, go into the mouth– roll over top of the tongue, underside of the top beak on the right side– stabilize with three finger grip… feel trachea (fairly firm pinch around the neck)– put fluid in, smoosh around the crop, and drag it out under negative pressure
Three components of droppings
Urates- white
Urine
Faeces
** look at general appearance in the cage, polyuria?? If urates aren’t white.
* consistency of faecal part
Why use saline?
Tap water would lyse cells
Kidney disease biochem parameter in birds?
* Uric acid– but won’t increase until severe kidney disease
* Creatinine is useless
* Urea only helpful with dehydration
Common treatments
* Protozoa- Toltrazuril
* Fungal treatment, yeast- Itraconazole, Fluconazole, Amphotericin B (Macro– Avian Gastric)
* Antimicrobials– amoxyclav– gram negatives
Baytril- enrofloxacin- gram positives (Chlamydia, Mycobacterium?)
Penicillin- gram positive
* Parasites- MLs– Moxidectin
Bloods
Faecals
Parasite treatment options
Crop Wash
Wing Trim
Primaries have shaft off centre and curve away from the bird, secondaries curve towards the bird. Only trim the primaries because the secondaries are important for gliding. Different numbers of feathers are required to be trimmed in different species- maybe four on each side for chickens and may need to trim all primaries on cockatiels.
nail trim
Use human toenail clippers or an emory board for small birds, and a dremel for larger birds.
nutrition
A very important aspect of all exotics. Always think about what they would eat in the wild then how to replicate this diet in captivity. Wild passerines and finches are insectivores, lorikeets are nectar-feeders, honeyeaters eat nectar and insects, raptors are meat eaters, many seabirds are fish-eaters. Granivores have a preference for fresh seeds (most bird feeds are too old). Animals need proteins, fats, and carbohydrates for tissue regeneration and energy, vitamins and minerals, with Ca and NaCl important. Fibre is needed for digestive health. Wild bird mixes include: Sunflower seeds- black seeds have high oil and fat, high in sugar and carbohydrates. Safflower seeds- also high in fat. Canaries and finches need oils- linseeds etc. For proteins soak seeds so they start to produce protein, provide nuts (but high in fat), legumes. For vitamins provide fresh veggies and fruits (but high sugar). Yellow, orange, and red veggies are high in Vitamin A. Green veggies are good for trace minerals, some Ca, higher fibre, but less energy density. B Vitamins are found in only fresh veggies. Seeds should be a much smaller component of pet feeds. For Ca can use Ca blocks, cuttlefish bones (wash salt off if from beach), soluble grit (seashells etc), or pellets- all nutrients included but specific to species. Pigeons- don’t dehusk their seeds so rely on stones in the gizzard, require more protein (peas, etc). Can also use mineral blocks. Lorikeets- fruit, flowering natives, wet-dry mixes (make up fresh each day). Raptors etc- meat and bones, whole carcasses, dog and cat food if short term. For crop feeding sick birds baby bird mixes are ideal- high in protein and energy (Wombaroo mixes). For insects mealworms, raid the garden, use a bug zapper in aviary without the zapper. Good to use food as a behavioural enrichment- turn feeding time into forage time.
Anaesthesia:
Premed: Generally it is better to get the bird in earlier so they get used to the environment and are less stressed. Fast most birds around 2-3 hours depending on the species and metabolic rate. Can feel for feed in the crop prior to anaesthesia. Baseline bloodwork may or may not be indicated the night before. Pre-anaesthetic loading with fluids is typically subcutaneous around 50 ml/kg/day (5%). Pre-meds: Butorphanol for pain relief (variable in sedative effect), Ketamine more for field situations and pigeons, Midazolam but take a long time to wake up.
Induction: Typically gas down (Iso,Sevo) with a good premed instead of IV induction. Use mask or crash induction- more stress with box induction. Anaesthetic gas should be delivered at 200 ml/kg but because birds are so small you need to keep the oxygen flow at at least 1 L/min, with Iso at about 2-2.5% (higher with Sevo).
Intubation: Birds have complete and narrowing tracheal rings so use a small endotracheal tube without cuff, for small birds can adapt catheters but they are rigid and can cause trauma that result in granulomas. Blow out ET tube, glottis is located just behind the tongue and is quite mobile. The tongue is quite delicate so don’t grasp with forceps- push the tongue forward by pushing up midline behind the bottom beak and then expose the glottis. Intubate by pulling the tongue forward with fingers or gauze. Masking tape is good enough to tie the ET tube on.
Anaesthesia: Heat is very important during the procedure- have a high ambient temperature, minimise alcohol use, use a layered bear hugger and/or blankets. Try to plan procedures to minimise time in sternal recumbency due to the pressure on their abdomen/thorax (opposite of large animals). Birds have voluntary control of palpebral reflex, don’t close their eyes so protect the down eye with a donut cushion. A ventilator can be very helpful for long or deep procedures.
Radiographs and recovery
Radiographs: You probably won’t need premed for simple procedures like rads. Can tape bird into position on a board and move the whole board to radiography. Positioning is very important- tape down with plenty of masking tape. For V/D get wings symmetrical, keel directly over backbone, and legs straight back with the toes spread. For laterals get hips over acetabulum, the right wing and the right leg slightly in front of the left.
Recovery: Turn off the gas and continue the oxygen- birds recover extremely fast. For pet birds you can recover in your arms, for wild birds in a warm dark room. Always give nutrition prior to leaving the hospital.
injections
IM Pectoral Injections: Give one third of the muscle down from the thoracic inlet, change the depth based on the size of the bird- boundaries are the thoracic inlet, the top and bottom of the keel bone, and either side of the keel bone. In practice will have to find the anatomy through the feathers- wet down slightly with CHG, part the feathers, and insert the needle.
SQ Injections: Be very careful of the air sacs. Potential sites are between the legs, between the shoulders (be very careful of air sacs), the skin over the pectorals (more safe but only small amount of space). Try not to put more than 1% BW in any one place.
Intraosseous Injections: Like delivering straight into an artery. Can be used for treating a bird in shock or for small bird catheters. Site 1- Tibiotarsal: With leg parallel to table place with the needle parallel to the table. Site 2- Ulnar bone: Point the wing to the roof and insert the needle straight down. Can use a spinal needle, as the stylet avoids getting plugged with bone core. Quite painful so ideally should be placed under GA, local anaesthetics are good idea, check placement with radiographs.
Skin biopsy
Take a spot from the affected and non-affected (back of the neck) areas. Take at least one feather follicle. Suture together- Vicryl is ideal, they often don’t chew but check up on it. Can leave in soft stitches (Vicryl) without much problem.
Crop Surgery
Pluck feathers in direction of the skin. Can use a tube to isolate the crop or visualise it without, then conduct surgical prep. Usually tent the skin and enter with scissors. Separate the crop from the skin wall- do not enter or suture them up together. Place stay sutures with a good bite to minimise spillage, hold them from out of the surgical field and be gentle. Scoop out the crop contents. Close the crop with two continuous inverting layers (horizontal or vertical mattress). Usually use 4/0 monofilament for internal sutures.
Bandages
Figure of 8 bandage supports the radius, ulna, and manus against the humerus. Figure of Y bandage stabilises whole wing (humerus fractures) against the body wall. It is important to check the bandage every week- if you don’t recheck can get deformity, ankylosis, etc.
Intubating air sacs
Best is caudal thoracic air sac. Landmarks are a triangle formed by the backbone, femur, and last rib. Cut the skin with scissors, insert curved haemostats and open them a small amount, insert a small ET tube into the air sac, attach a tag of tape, and suture it to the skin. Check for airflow with a feather.
Euthanasia
Always dilute Lethobarb 50/50 with water, otherwise it clots the blood and causes convulsions in birds. Lethobarb causes pathology such as a congested liver and spleen, thickened air sacs, and clotted blood. Other options are Halothane inhalation or cervical dislocation. Cervical dislocation must be done properly- disarticulate at the atlantoaxial joint.
Crop wash
Crop tube over the base of the tongue from the left side to the right side, you can feel it with your thumb– until it is at the level of the crop. Making sure he is upright. Aspirate 1 mL of saline, then syringe out. Prepare thin smear
Gram stains purple-blue
Crop- expanded muscular pouch– enlargement of the oesophagus temporarily stores food (crop stasis)
Proventriculus- first part of the bird’s stomach where digestive enzymes are mixed with food before it goes down to the gizzard.
Gizzard- hind part of the stomach– grinding food– located between the crop and the intestine– thick, muscular wall– may contain small stones or gastroliths that function in the mechanical breakdown of seeds and other foods
Tolturazil
Metronidazole
Budgie male or female?
Male- blue cere
Female- white or pale brown cere- can become dark tan or brownish pink as she becomes more fertile and ready to produce eggs
Air sac intubation is possible if tracheal intubation is not possible
For most birds over 350g a 3mm tube will work well
For birds less than 100g may be best to use a mask
Endotrachel tube length can be determined by measuring the distance from the thoracic inlet to the tip of the beak
Constituents of bird droppings
Faeces, urates, and urine
Diet of a pigeon
Pellets 50%
Fruits and vegetables (high water content such as iceberg lettuce very little nutritional content, kale not easily digested)
Legumes– dried field peas
Base racing diet of 30 to 40% peas
15% each of maize, sorghum, wheat and safflower
One to two handfuls of mixed small seed (millet, canary, rape, and linseed) per 12-liter bucket
Complete multivitamin/trace element drink one day per week in the drinking water (Multivite Plus)
Free access to pink mineral and balanced grit (PVM Powder and the Australian Pigeon Company’s Health Grit)
Wheat germ oil-based supplement together with yeast on seed for two or more feeds weekly (eg Polyseed Oil)
Chopped green vegetables with diced carrots weekly (or diluted carrot juice)
Low numbers of polychromatophils (<5%) may occur in healthy birds and are characterized by a pale blue color of the cytoplasm of the RBC
Anaemic if PCV < 35% (>55% is suggestive of polycythaemia or dehydration)
Cnemidocoptes- the scaly face/ leg mite
Feeds on keratin- skin, beak, and feet
Tunnels into these layers creating a honeycomb appearance
Chickens- lesions on the feet
TX: Moxidectin
For control, affected birds should be culled or isolated, and houses cleaned and sprayed frequently as
Mallophaga- biting lice- many different species
Bedraggled and thin plumage– feed on feathers– itching, lack of sleep
Light shy
Mainly pigeons and wild birds
Tx: pyrethroids
Green droppings DDX
Liver disease (or yellow, plus ascites)– could be bacterial or fatty liver
High fat diets (seeds, nuts, table foods)
Body condition or keel score of 4/5
Clinical signs include lameness (pododermatitis and/or arthritis) and respiratory issues from excessive abdominal fat
Convert to pelleted diet with portion control, larger cage with multiple food bowls around the cage to encourage movement, rope perfches encourage climbing and balance
More prone to arthritis, hepatic lipidosis, atherosclerosis, and cardiac disease
Diet of a budgie
40% Canary - (Phalaris Canariensis) as pictured here, not to be confused with the seed mix sold to feed canaries.
50% Millet – (Setaria Italica) made up of a mixture of White, Panicum, Yellow and Japanese millets. Millets are high in important nutrients, including silica, important for healthy bones, ligaments and many other body systems. Millet is considered a healthy addition to human diets also and some cultures have it as the basis of their diet.
10% Oats – I prefer whole oats to groats or hulled oats, which have had the outer hull removed, I see no reason they shouldn’t have to do a little bit of work to eat this high energy grain. Groats (hulled oats) are useful for chicks or unwell birds needing an easy energy boost though. A high fat grain such as oats or sunflower seeds is important for such active birds, but if yours is one that doesn’t get much exercise or has weight issues then you should manage how much of this sort of feed they get.
The best way to add greens to your budgie diet is to provide fresh greens that you have collected for them. In spring you can gather small bunches of seeding grasses at various stages of development from still very green through to mature dry seeds still on the stalk. You can also feed various ‘weeds’ such as chickweed (Stellaria media) seen below, dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) and shepherds purse (Capsella bursa-pastoris). Of course in Australia budgie also chew on eucalyptus trees so if you can find a branch or two of that they will appreciate it.
Apple cider vinegar is a wonderful antibiotic and immune boost and I usually spray a little onto the soaked seed, or a piece of fruit.
Cuttlefish is usually available from a pet store. It provides calcium and helps keep the beak in order. Hang one in the cage and let your budgie help itself when needed. I would consider this a necessity so your budgie can always get the calcium it needs. Even if it does not touch it for months, you will find that one day it needs it. Birds are good at balancing their calcium needs if they are allowed. So, I would only offer calcium in water if you know what you are doing and are sure it is needed (such as during breeding). If you have it in the water they are unable to avoid it if there is more than they need. Too much calcium is not healthy, just like too little. For a pet budgie a cuttlefish is all they should need.
Mineral mixes specifically for birds are also an option. These should be offered in a separate dish and the budgie can help themselves as needed. I believe they will have a better idea of how much and how often they need it than we do!
Vitamin supplements these are usually made to be added to the water. I prefer not to do this as then your budgie has no choice but to drink them whether needed or not. If you are offering (and your bird is eating) a mixed diet with daily intake of fresh greens or veges and regular sprouted seed, then you shouldn’t need to use a vitamin supplement. However if you are worried you can use one very occasionally. Perhaps one day in a fortnight or a month you could put some in the water and then remove the next day.
Grit - this topic, it seems, is a real can of worms! So, I am going to do a separate page on this topic - click here for it.
Diet of a cockatiel
Pellets Vs. Seeds
This has been a controversial subject among cockatiel owners. You don’t have to convert your tiel to pellets, as long as you are giving them a variety foods. We have had cockatiel living up to 22 years on this diet, a diet of variety.
Water
Your cockatiel’s water should always be clean and changed daily or any time it gets dirty with droppings or food particles. The water trays should always be washed and cleaned with hot soapy water to avoid bacteria and fungus to grow. The rule of thumb here is that you should only give your cockatiel water that you think you can drink too, so if you only drink bottle water so should your cockatiel as well.
Seeds
Again nothing wrong with a seed diet as long as you have variety. Do make sure you clean the seed tray as well with hot soapy water to avoid bacteria and fungus to grow, and do make sure that the seed tray is completely and totally dry before serving seeds. Any time moisture is on the seed tray, you are inviting fungus and bacteria. Your cockatiel will extract the seed from the husks and the bowl may in fact be full of empty husks that your cockatiel does not consume, so it’s important that you refresh the seed tray as often as you can.
Veggies
Sprouts, Spinach, Turnip Greens, Swiss chard, Mustard Greens, Broccoli, Escarole, Chicory, Dried Tomatoes, Beet Greens, Bok Choy, Grated Carrots, Collard greens, Corn on the Cob, Endive, Kale, Yams, Pumpkin, Sweet potato, (cockatiels like Yams, Pumpkin and Sweet Potato better when they are cooked).
Fruits
Mangos, Cantaloupe, Apricots, Nectarines, Papayas, Peaches Apples, Bananas, Grapes, Oranges. Make sure your cockatiel does not have any seeds from fruits, some can be very dangerous, like Cherry pits as they may contain trace amounts of cyanide.
Protein and Meat
It’s OK for your cockatiel to eat chicken, fish or beef, again we are talking here very small amounts. Other sources of protein are cooked eggs (hard boiled or scrambled), yogurt, cottage cheese and peanuts.
“NEVER give your cockatiel any of the following foods, as they are extremely TOXIC:
Avocado, Chocolate, Any Fruit Seeds, Onions, Garlic, Alcohol, Mushrooms, Honey, Salt, Caffeine, Dried or Uncooked Beans, Rhubarb, High-Fat, High-Sodium, High-Sugar Foods. Any type of food that might be advertised as ‘sugar free’, like sugar free peanut butter, candies etc. These sugar free products might contain Xylitol, which has been associated with severe hypoglycemia and liver damage. “