physical processes 2 Flashcards
What primarily shapes coastal landscapes?
Coastal landscapes are shaped by complex physical processes, primarily the action of waves.
What happens when waves reach the shore?
Waves carry out a series of actions that both transport and deposit sediment along the coastline.
What is longshore drift?
Longshore drift is the process where sediment is moved along the beach in a zigzag pattern.
Why do waves approach the shore at an angle?
Waves approach the shore at an angle due to the prevailing wind direction.
What occurs during the swash?
During the swash, waves push up the beach and carry sediment at a 45° angle.
What occurs during the backwash?
In the backwash, sediment is pulled back down the beach at a 90° angle.
What are the methods of sediment transport by waves?
Waves transport sediment through traction, saltation, suspension, and solution.
What is traction in sediment transport?
Traction is when large boulders are rolled along the seabed.
What is saltation in sediment transport?
Saltation is when smaller stones are bounced along the seabed.
How are finer materials transported by waves?
Finer materials can be carried through suspension.
How can certain minerals move in seawater?
Certain minerals may dissolve in seawater, moving along in a solution.
What influences sediment transport processes?
The energy of the waves significantly influences sediment transport processes.
What are constructive waves?
Constructive waves are long and less steep waves that tend to transport sediment forward and deposit it.
What factors affect deposition?
Factors affecting deposition include wave energy and the gradient offshore.
How does calm conditions affect wave energy?
Wave energy is reduced in calm conditions or at sheltered spots like bays.
