Perming Flashcards
What are the three layers of the hair
Cuticle
Cortex
Medulla
The hair Structure
The polypeptide chains within the
medulla which are linked by
three kinds of cross-linkages:
- Hydrogen bonds
- Salt linkages
- Disulphide bonds (Di = 2)
How does perming work
Disulphide bonds are in the cortex.
Each disulphide bond is made up of two sulphur atoms (S-S also known as a cystine molecule).
Applying perm lotion to the hair opens and swells the cuticle scales.
The perm lotion adds hydrogen, which breaks down some of the disulphide bonds (approximately 20%)
As the disulphide bonds are broken each cystine molecule (S-S) is reduced to form two cysteine molecules (S-H).
The softened hair takes on the shape of the rod.
How does neutraliser works?
When development is complete, the hair should take on an “S” shape.
The hair is now ready to be rinsed.
Blot the hair before applying the neutraliser.
Neutraliser adds oxygen, which attaches to the hydrogen, and together they are removed in the form of water.
The neutralising process allows the new disulphide bonds (cystine molecules) to form and fix the hair in the new position.
What are the Chemical rearranging process
Perms for type 4 (very curly hair) are usually dual action perms, which contain ammonium thioglycolate and are gentler on the hair
The first application is usually a cream, and is referred to as a chemical rearranger. The rearranger should be applied and developed following manufacturers instructions
This process softens the hair (breaks down disulphide bonds), allowing the natural curl to be straighten
A Strand Test should be used to monitor the straightening process and condition of the hair
Once the hair is sufficiently straightened, the hair should be thoroughly rinsed and towel dried
What are the chemical rearranging process? part 2
Following manufacturer’s instructions, apply the second application of ammonium thioglycolate, which is usually a lotion
Comb the lotion through the hair, prior to winding
Develop and monitor the hair following manufacturers instructions
Once the required curl pattern is achieved, the hair should be thoroughly rinsed
Applying the neutraliser following manufacturers instructions
The neutralising process allows the new disulphide bonds to form and fix the hair in the new curl position
Types of perm lotion and neutraliser
Types of perm lotion include:
Alkaline perms
Acid perms
Exothermic perms
Types of neutraliser include:
Hydrogen peroxide
Sodium bromate
Sodium perborate
Skin Test
Why: To check for an allergic reaction to the
perm lotion if required by the manufacturer
When: 24/48 hours before a perm service
(Following manufacturer’s instructions)
How:
Cleanse test area (behind the ear or inside
the elbow)
Apply intended perm lotion with cotton buds; leave undisturbed for 24-48 hours, as per manufacturer’s instructions
Positive result:
Reaction may include: redness, swelling, itching
Incompatibility Test
Why: To test for metallic salts on the hair
When: Before a chemical service, if you
suspect colour on hair contains metallic salts
How: Cut off a few hair strands and place in mix of: 20 parts hydrogen peroxide 1 part ammonia Let sit for up to 30 minutes
Positive result:
Discoloration, heat, bubbles or hair breakage
Porosity Test
Why: To check if the cuticle is raised/damaged
When: Before the perm or relax service
How: Run the thumb and finger along a strand of hair (points to roots)
Results:
Hair feels rough (cuticle is open/hair is porous)
Hair feels smooth (cuticle is closed)
Elasticity Test
Why: To assess any damage to the internal
structure of the hair (the cortex)
When: Before the perm or relax service
How: Gently pull a few strands of wet hair
and check result
Results:
Good elasticity – The hair will stretch and spring back
Poor elasticity – The hair may not stretch, or will stretch and not spring back, or may break
What is Texture?
Texture refers to the thickness of hair
Fine hair may be resistant because of tightly packed cuticle
Medium hair has on average 7-10 layers of cuticle and generally accepts products well
Coarse hair may be resistant due to the
increased number of cuticle layers
What is Density?
Density refers to the amount of hair and affects:
Amount of lotion to be used
Techniques to be used
Size of the sections
Pre-Perm Test
Why: To determine the suitability of product and
help identify suitable products, rod size and
development time
When: Before the perm service
How:
Can be carried out on the head or using
a cutting of hair
The hair is wound, the lotion applied, developed, neutralised and removed
Results:
Required result achieved
Required result not achieved
Development Test Curl
Why: To check a curl development
When: During the development of the perm
How:
Unfasten and carefully unwind the curl one
to two turns of the rod
Do not let the hair loosen or unwind
completely from the rod
Gently push the perm rod towards the head
Results:
Required result achieved
Required result not achieved and further development is needed
Strand Test
Why: To determine when the desired degree of straightness has been achieved and check the condition of the hair
When: During the development of a chemical rearranging service
How: Gently wipe the product away from
strands of hair
Results: Desired degree of straightness has been achieved
Chemical rearranger requires further development
Health, Safety and Infection Control
Divided into four areas
Client care prior to the service: Includes conducting an elasticity test to help determine the strength of the hair.
Client care during the service: Includes protecting the client’s skin with barrier cream and then cotton wool around the hairline.
Personal care: Includes wearing Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) when working with perm lotion, relaxer and neutraliser.
Salon care: Includes discarding any leftover product (down the sink with plenty of water).
The 4Cs- Connect
Connect refers to:
Meeting and greeting clients with a welcoming smile and pleasant tone
Communicating to build a rapport and develop
a relationship with
the client
The 4Cs- Consult
Consult refers to:
Asking questions to gain valuable information
Analysing the hair
and scalp
Identify a suitable service to meet the needs of the hair type
Carrying out or checking test results
The 4Cs- Create
Create refers to: Making sure the client is protected Making sure the client is comfortable Staying focused and delivering the service to the best of your ability Being cost-effective when using products and working within scheduled appointment times
The 4Cs- Complete
Complete refers to: Checking that the client is happy with the service Providing good aftercare advice Booking clients’ next appointment Ending visit with a warm and personal goodbye Tidying work area and cleaning, disinfecting or sterilising tools and equipment Completing client service record
How to Comb the Hair?
Comb the hair in the direction
selected.
Section the hair in the
direction of the wind.
How to section?
Nine Section (basic wind)
Allows the hair to be styled
in any direction
Directional wind
Follows the direction in which the hair is to be styled
Brick wind
Helps avoid partings in fine hair
What does Winding do?
The desired size and shape of new movement is determined by the perm rods and length of the hair.
Perm rods come in various lengths, diameters and shapes, and each size is colour-coded.
Why use End Papers?
End papers are used to: Control the hair ends Keep the hair smoothly wound around the perm rod (preventing “fishhook” ends) Techniques include:
How to position your rod?
Refers to the placement of the wound perm rod in relation to its base
Determined by the size of the base and the angle at which the hair is elevated while winding
Affects the degree of lift from the base, which is important because base lift creates volume
How long should you develop the perm lotion?
Manufacturers give guidelines on timings for:
Development of the perm lotion or relaxer
(but you should also test to see how the service is progressing)
Rinsing
Neutralising development
Any further development following rod removal
Final rinsing
Perm Problems and Solutions- Weak or limp Curl
Cause:
Underprocessing (perm lotion not left on the hair
long enough)
Using perm rods that are too large for desired curl
Hair is wound too loosely around perm rods
Incorrect choice of perm product
Uneven application
Solution:
Re-perm if condition allows
Perm Problems and Solutions- Uneven Curl
Cause:
Inconsistent application of perm lotion and/or neutraliser
Incomplete rinsing or blotting
Too much hair wound on perm rods or sections too large
Solution:
Re-perm in area needed if condition allows
Perm Problems and Solutions- Fizziness
Cause:
Overprocessing (perm lotion left on the hair too long; may look curly when wet, but frizzy when dry)
Hair is stretched or manipulated too much after perm when styling
Solution:
Deep reconstructive treatments
Perm Problems and Solutions- Breakage or dryness
Cause:
Hair is wound on perm rods with too much tension
Hair is too fragile for perming
Perm rod band places pressure on hair during processing
Rearranger or perm lotion applied to hair that has previously been permed (product overlap)
Solution:
Deep reconstructive treatments and a haircut
Perm Problems and Solutions- Skin irritation
Cause:
Cotton wool or neck towel is allowed to remain on skin after it was saturated with perm lotion
Solution:
Replace with fresh cotton wool or towel as needed; do not allow lotion-soaked cotton wool to remain on skin, especially under plastic cap
If client feels any discomfort or irritation terminate the service immediately
Cool skin with cold compresses
Perm Problems and Solutions- Fishhooks
Cause:
Ends not wound smoothly around the rod
Solution:
Trim the ends
Perm Problems and Solutions- Perm did not last as long as expected
Cause:
Incomplete neutralising, insufficient blotting after rinsing perm lotion, which dilutes the neutraliser
Rod selection too large
Solution
Re-perm if condition allows
Perm Problems and Solutions- Curl drops after the perm
Cause:
Incomplete neutralising
Over processed hair
Rearranger too strong or left on too long (hair overprocess)
Solution
Re-perm if condition allows
Deep reconstructive treatments
Hydroxide Relaxers- Part 1
Hydroxide relaxers penetrate the cortex and break down the disulphide bond into separate sulphur bonds.
Unlike thio relaxers, one of the sulphur bonds is removed and the remaining bond rejoins to form a new substance (amino acid or component) called lanthionine.
The process is irreversible and also means that the relaxed hair cannot be permed.
When the hair has relaxed sufficiently a neutralising shampoo is used.
This is acidic and will: Remove the relaxer product from the hair Close the cuticle Return the hair to its normal pH
Hydroxide Relaxers- Part 2
Hydroxide relaxers are strong alkaline products that have a pH of 10 to 13
Designed to straighten tightly curled hair
Manufacturers have divided them into two types:
Lye, the stronger
No-lye, the weaker
Sodium relaxers are lye and the rest are no-lye.
No-lye relaxers are usually recommended for less resistant hair and require frequent follow-up conditioning treatments.
What are The five types of hydroxide relaxers?
Sodium hydroxide Calcium hydroxide Potassium hydroxide Guanidine hydroxide Lithium hydroxide
Ammonium Thioglycolate
The ammonium thioglycolate (thio) relaxer, with a pH of 8.5 to 9.5, is a chemical reducing agent that causes the hair to soften and swell.
Hydrogen and disulphide bonds in the hair are affected during thio processing.
With the thioglycolate relaxer, the disulphide bonds break down in the same way as a perm, to allow the shape of the hair to be changed.
What are the different strengths of Ammonium Thioglycolate?
Relaxer strengths for ammonium thioglycolate and hydroxide are usually categorised as:
Mild (delicate) – Used on healthy, colour-treated hair, fine textured or porous hair
Regular (normal) – Used on curly to medium textured hair
Super (resistant) – Used on tightly curled, coarse textured or resistant hair
The pH scale relaxers
Ammonium Thioglycolate Relaxers: 8.5 to 9.5
Hydroxide Relaxers: 10.0 to 13.0
Neutralisers and treatments for Hydroxide Relaxers
Neutralisers for Hydroxide Relaxers
Neutralising shampoos, also known as normalisers, are used for neutralising hydroxide-based relaxers.
They are used when the degree of straightening has been achieved and all the relaxer product has been rinsed out of the hair.
They will:
Neutralise any remaining alkali in the hair
Close the cuticle
Bring the hair back to its normal pH
Neutralisers and treatments for Ammonium Thioglycolate Relaxers
Neutralisers for Ammonium Thioglycolate Relaxers
Neutralisers for ammonium thioglycolate relaxers reform the disulphide bonds while lowering the pH of the hair.
The main ingredient found in most neutralisers is hydrogen peroxide, sodium perborate or sodium bromate.
The pH can range from 2.5 to 7, depending on the type of neutraliser.
Neutralising is also known as rebonding or oxidation.
Pre-Relaxers Treatment
Pre-relaxer treatment is used prior to the relaxing process to coat the hair with a polymer film that acts as a buffer to protect dry or porous hair from the relaxer product.
These products even out the porosity, giving a more
even result.
Always follow manufacturer’s instructions.
Post-Relaxer Treatment
Post-relaxer treatments are used after the relaxer service to help:
Return the hair to its natural pH
Replace moisture
Development Strand Test or Comb Test
Why: To monitor the development of the relaxer and condition of the hair
When: During the development of the relaxer
How:
Remove product from the root of the hair using the back of the comb
Then press the back or tail of the comb
against the root area to determine the
degree of relaxation that has taken place
Results:
Required result achieved
Required result not achieved
Pre-Relaxing Strand Test
Why: To determine the suitability of products and identify the potential result
When: Before relaxing
How:
Take a small section of the hair
Apply the selected product strength to the hair
Smooth and check regularly
Results:
Required result achieved
Required result not achieved
Relax Problems and solutions - Extreme breakage shortly after relaxing
Cause:
Overprocessing and overlapping with previously chemically treated hair
Chemical product not rinsed off thoroughly
Solution:
Deep restructuring treatments and trimming
Relax Problems and solutions - Hair breakage in nape after relaxing
Cause:
Overprocessing
Relaxer product left in the neck of the backwash or left on the towel and comes in contact with client’s nape at the basin after rinsing product from hair
Solution:
Rinse the relaxer from the neck of the basin before leaning the client back into the basin after rinsing product from the hair; change the towel
Relax Problems and solutions - Irritation, sensitivity or burning on the scalp
Problem: Irritation, sensitivity or burning on the scalp
Cause:
Client cleansed their face and extended cleansing into the hairline before the relaxer service
A lack of basing at hairline
Product was left on for too long
Solution:
Rinse immediately and refer to manufacturer’s instructions
Relax Problems and solutions - Discoloration of the hair after chemical process
(e.g. white hair becoming yellow/green)
Cause:
Using chemical relaxers on white or previously coloured hair
Solution:
Apply semi-permanent or temporary colour
Check manufacturer’s instructions
Relax Problems and solutions - Hair too straight after relaxing
Cause: Incorrect product choice Incorrect development time Hair over-combed Hair over-smoothed
Solution:
Style for more volume
