Colour Flashcards
What is the colour wheel?
As hairdressers we put the information together with the “Colour wheel”. It is important to know which colour sits opposite each other. For example; if colour is too yellow we know that we need to use purple to cancel the yellow- this is why we use purple shampoo.
Primary colours
Red
Blue
Yellow
Secondary colours
Yellow + Red = Orange
Red + Blue = Purple
Blue + Yellow = green
Primary, Secondary and Tertiary Colours
Red –> Vermillion –> Orange –> Amber –> Yellow
Yellow –> Chartreuse –> Green –> Aquamarine –>Blue
Blue – > Indigo –> Violet –> Violet Red - Red
Inside a Hair
Outer layer= cuticle layer
Inner layer = cortex
Middle = medulla (not everyone has this)
The cortex is where the chemical changes take place during colouring and perming
Hair Colour Pigments
The colour pigment melanin is produced in the cortex by melanocytes
There are two types of melanin:
Eumelanin (black/brown pigment)
Pheomelanin (red/yellow pigment)
What is Depth?
the lightness or darkness of your hair.
What is Tone?
Tone refers to the colours we see in the hair – be they natural colours or artificially added. Tonal colours are classed as warm, neutral or cool
Colour pigment
Pheomelanin is mainly responsible for the underlying tones found within hair. When going lighter in colour, certain natural tones called undertones will be apparent. These are important to identify when analysing hair colour during a consultation, as the primary undertone will influence final hair colour. In certain cases these may need to be bleached, or counteracted with an opposing tone from the colour wheel, in order to achieve a target colour. (again, if hair is too yellow we use purple to counteract the yellow.)
Using a Colour Chart
As hairdressers we use a colour chart to help us with our colour choices.
At the start of every colour chart you will see numbers from 1 to 10. This number is to identify the “natural base colour” . To identify how dark or light the hair is.
The second number is the tone.
(If there is a third number this is weaker than the other numbers).
ICC = International Colour Chart
What the numbers mean;
All hair colours are numbered on a level system between 1 and 10; as the number gets higher, the colour gets lighter. For example, level 1 is black, level 5 is medium brown, and level 10 is lightest blonde.(at this stage we are only looking at the first number between 1 to 10). Eg; 2/0, 3/0 etc. This is known as the base shade.
Identifying natural hair depth
10 Lightest blonde 9 Very light blonde 8 Light blonde 7 Blonde 6 Dark blonde 5 Light brown 4 Brown 3 Dark brown 2 Darkest brown 1 Black
The ICC (International Colour
Chart) uses a number system
(1-10) to identify the depth
1 is the darkest and
10 is the lightest
Temporary Colours
Larger colour molecules coat the surface of the cuticle
Remain on the hair until the next shampoo
Do not chemically change the hair
Add tone and depth
Semi-Permanent Colours
Small molecules penetrate the cuticle and enter the cortex
Do not chemically change the hair
Add tone and depth only
Cover a small percentage of white hair and help blend larger percentage
Skin testing may be recommended by manufacturer
Last up to 6-8 washes
Quasi-Permanent Colours
Small molecules penetrate the cortex
Mixed with low-level hydrogen peroxide
Add tone, darken, cover or blend a percentage of white
Clients will experience colour fade and a regrowth may appear
Lasts up to 24-26 washes
Skin test is required
Permanent Colours
Small molecules are oxidised in the cortex to form permanent coloured molecules
Mixed with hydrogen peroxide
Add tone, darken, lighten and cover 100% white hair
Lasts…. permanently!
A skin test is required
How Permanent colours work
Permanent colour molecules are small so they can enter the hair. When mixed with peroxide this causes them to swell and become big molecules so once they are inside the cortex they are then too big to escape. Trapped! PERMANENTLY inside the hair.
This is a process called “oxidisation”
Oxygen (from peroxide) causes the colour molecule to swell.
When mixing peroxide with Permanent colour it is mixed 1;1 ratio
eg; 30mls colour with 30 mls peroxide.
Always follow Manufacturers instructions
Wella Tone Numbers :’)
ASH = 1 GREEN = /2 YELLOW = /3 ORANGE = /43 OR /34 RED = /4 VIOLET = /6 BLUE = /8
/5 falls between red and violet
/9 falls between violet and blue- wella call it cedre
Peroxide and its uses
In order to get colour to enter the Cortex we need to mix it with a developer.
Developers are hydrogen peroxide.
This comes in different strengths depending on what we want to do .
What Does Vol or % Mean?
VOL = Actual oxygen released
present
% = Amount of hydrogen peroxide
Hydrogen peroxide
for Permanent hair colours, We use;
6% (also known as 20vol)
9% (also known as 30vol)
12% (also known as 40 vol)
Using Peroxide
To limit damage to the hair it is always best to use the lowest strength you can. Only use 9% or 12% when you really have to, to get the levels of lift you want.
When adding colour in (rather than lifting colour out) use either 4% or 6% with permanent tint.
What happens when you use too strong of a peroxide?
When too strong a peroxide is used the cuticle is damaged and this can result in colours fading - colour molecules escape out of the open cuticle.
Developers For Quasi colours
Quasi colours are colours which last up to 24 washes. These are great for adding Tone. They are mixed with much lower level peroxides. Either 1.9% or 4% only.
These are mixed 2;1 with Quasi colour -eg; 30mls colour to 60mls developer.
(Quasi colours dont cover grey hair very wel)
In the Wella range the blue labels are peroxides for permanent colours and the red labels are for Quasi colours.
White Hair
When the melanocytes stop producing melanin, the result is white hair.
A mix of white hair and pigmented hair makes the hair appear grey.
We measure the amount of white hair as a percentage.
Percentage of white hair
If a client has 25% white hair we need to use 25% of the natural base shade to cover the white hairs.
If a client has 50% white hair then we need to use 50% natural base shade to cover the white hair.
If a client has 75% (or above) white hair then we need to use 75% natural base to cover the white hairs.
High Lift Tint
Indicated by a depth number level of a 11 or 12
The lightest achievable level from normal tint is a 10
Special blonde colours are corrective giving up to 4 levels of lift
When using special blonde high lift tints on a full head application, please develop for a full 60 minutes
Corrective tone is only deposited in the last ten minutes of development! This means that all you get before is just lifted undertone . So it is really important to time development accurately.
Lighteners
The Lightner we use is the Wella Blondor Bleach. It is a blue powder bleach.
This is then mixed with developer. Either 6%,9%,12% depending on the results you want to achieve.
Mixed with hydrogen peroxide (adds oxygen)
Remove or diffuse the colour pigment in the hair
Can lift up to 7 levels
Lightening hair and Undertones;
When we think of lightening hair we need to understand the “undertone” in hair. These are tones which become exposed at each stage of lightening hair.
Toning
Toners are used to neutralise unwanted tone or add tone to
pre-lightened hair.
Each manufacturer will recommend colour products from their temporary, semi-permanent, quasi-permanent and permanent colour ranges, which can be used to tone the hair.
Undertones
When lightening hair we need to know which “UNDERTONE” will be exposed. Make yourself familiar with this scale so you know what to expect.
(Please check Slide ‘UNIT 207 COLOUR- SESSION 3’ to see the scale)
What would happen if you ran out of 6%/20vol Peroxide
There may be times when you need to know how to dilute peroxide.
If you have 12%/40 vol peroxide you could turn this into 6%/20 vol simply by diluting with water.
Example:
40 vol diluted to 10vol, how many parts water/peroxide?
3 parts water with only 1 part peroxide.
40-30=10
In otherwords 3-1 =4
Diluting questions
30 vol dilute to 10 vol? 40 vol dilute to 30 vol? 20 vol dilute to 10 vol? 30 vol dilute to 20 vol? 40 vol dilute to 20 vol? 40 vol dilute to 10 vol?
Skin Tests
Why? To Check for an Allergic Reaction to Colour
When? 24/48 Hours Before a Colour service
How?
Clean the area to be tested, this ensures there are no other chemicals that the client may be allergic too, use a cotton wool bud with a small amount of product, then place on the skin
Positive result:
Reaction may include: redness, swelling, itching
Incompatibility Tests
Why: To test for metallic salts on the hair
When: Before a colour service if you
suspect colour on hair contains metallic salts
How:
Place a small cutting of hair in the solution and wait. If heat is given off, the lotion fizzes and the hair breaks, dissolves or changes colour
Positive result:
Discoloration, heat, bubbles or hair breakage
Porosity Tests
Why: to test the cuticle layer to identify if the cuticles are smooth or rough
When: Before the colour service
How: Run the thumb and finger along a strand of hair (points to roots)
Results:
Hair feels rough (cuticle is open/hair is porous)
Hair feels smooth (cuticle is closed)
Elasticity Tests
Why: To assess any damage to the internal
structure of the hair (the cortex)
When: Before the colour service
How: Gently pull a few strands of wet hair
and check result
Results: checks the condition of the cortex, the tensile strength of the hair
Colour Tests
Why: to check if the client’s skin will react to the chemicals in the colouring product
When: Before the colour service
How: Can be carried out on the head or using a cutting of hair The intended colour is mixed, applied, developed and removed
Results:
Required result achieved
Required result not achieved
Strand Tests
Why: To monitor the colour development and the condition of the hair
When: During the development of the colour
How: Gently wipe the product away from
strands of hair
Results: helps you determine the final colour results, so theres are no suprises when you dye your full head
Hair Colour problems and solutions:
Colour fades quickly
Cause:
Incorrect peroxide used
Uneven porosity and insufficient development
Poor homecare maintenance
Solution:
Pre-treat the hair and recolour if the condition allows; recommend shampoo and conditioner for colour- treated hair and good homecare maintenance
Hair Colour problems and solutions
Result is too Light
Cause:
Incorrect peroxide used
Incorrect colour choice
Solution:
Reassess the depth of the hair and recolour if the condition of hair and scalp allows; recommend good homecare maintenance
Hair Colour problems and solutions
Colour result too dark
Cause:
Incorrect colour choice
Hair too porous
Peroxide strength too low
Solution:
Refer client for specialist colour correction
Hair Colour problems and solutions
Stained skin `
Cause:
Poor application
Failure to emulsify when removing colour
Solution:
Gently apply stain remover at the backwash
Note some clients are sensitive to stain remover
Hair Colour problems and solutions
Insufficient coverage of white hair
Cause: Incorrect product selection Insufficient product used Colour not applied evenly Not left on long enough Poor analysis of percent of white hair
Solution:
Select suitable products and recolour if the condition of hair and scalp allows; follow manufacturer’s instructions for development on white hair
Hair Colour problems and solutions
Deterioration of hair condition
Cause: Overlapping Colouring hair too frequently Strength of peroxide used too high Over-processing
Solution:
Intensive treatment to improve the condition and advise client to have the hair cut
Hair Colour problems and solutions
Product seepage
Cause:
Too much hair in the packet or foil (e.g. sections not precise)
Too much product on the section
Incorrect handling during application and processing
Excessive heat causing the colour to expand in the foil/packet
Solution
If condition allows spot colour affected areas
Hair Colour problems and solutions
Uneven/patchy colour
Cause: Poor application Poor mixing of product Sections too large Overlapping, causing colour build-up Insufficient development
Solution:
Spot colour
Hair Colour problems and solutions
Result too warm
Cause:
Incorrect peroxide used
Incorrect colour selection
Insufficient development
Solution:
Apply ash toner (green to neutralise red, blue to neutralise copper or violet to neutralise yellow)
