Paper 1 - Coastal Landscapes and Processes Flashcards by Joanna Swainston

Which type of wave has a strong swash and weak backwash?

Constructive

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What do constructive waves cause? Erosion or Deposition?

Deposition

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What does destructive waves cause? Erosion or Deposition?

Erosion

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How frequent are constructive waves?

6-9 waves (per minute)

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How frequent are destructive waves?

11-15 waves (per minute)

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Describe the wave lengths of constructive waves

Long and Shallow

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Describe the wave lengths of destructive waves

Short and steep

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What defines the height and energy a wave has?

Wind speed & strength
The fetch (the distance over which the wind has been blowing
The length of time the wind has been blowing over the water

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Why does wind blowing over the sea cause waves?

Friction between the water and the air

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What is a concordant coastline?

Bands of resistant rock and less resistant rock run parallel to the coast line

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What is a discordant coastline?

Bands of resistant rock and less resistant rock run at a right angle to the coast

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What is an example of discordant coastline and what landform is there?

Swanage bay

* Headlands and Bays

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What is abrasion?

Rock fragments are picked up and thrown against the cliff face, making bits off rock fall off

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What is solution?

Rain water is slightly acidic and dissolves the calcium carbonate in the limestone

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What is attrition?

Rick fragments collide with eachother and the cliff face to create sand sized particles (easily transported)

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What is hydraulic action?

The sheer force of the waves hitting the cliff face breaks off parts of the rock, it also forces air onto cracks in the rock that wedges open and dislodges them

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What is a rock fall?

Pieces of rock from a weathered cliff fall -usually due to a lack of support at the bottom that causes it to collapse

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What is a slump?

After long periods of rainfall, the water sinks through permeable rock, like sand stone to impermeable rock, like clay. The soil is weaker and causes the body of rock to move along the curved surface

Define ‘landslide’

Movement of soil and rock rapidly down a slope

Order these: 
A) Stump
B) Arch 
C) Cacks in a headland
D) Stack
E) Sea Cave

C, E, B, D, A

Define a wave cut notch

A small indentation at the base of a cliff around the height of high tide, caused by erosion

Define wave cut platform

A wide, gently sloping rock surface at the foot of a cliff

Describe the process of long shore drift

Swash carries and deposits material at the angle of the prevailing wind
The materials is pulled back at 90° to the shore line due to gravity
The process repeats, forming a zig zag pattern, gradually moving the material laterally in the direction of the wind

Explain what a spit is

When a body of sand, carried by Long Shore Drift, continues past the edge of the land, protruding into the sea before curling or curving inwards and fading out - slat marshes are usually found behind them

Explain what a bar is

When a a body of sand continues past the edge of the land and protrudes into the sea, before joining with another piece of land, forming a sort of sandy bridge between the headlands -freshwater lagoons usually found behind them

What is costal recession?

The gradual retreat of a coastline due to erosion

What is a sea wall?

A giant concrete wall that reflects waves back to sea

What is a Groyne?

A wooden or rock, structure or divider, build along a beach at right angles to the shoreline

What is Rip Rap?

Large boulders piled at the foot of a cliff

What is Beach nourishment?

Adding imported sand or shingle to a beach where Long Shore Drift has removed too much of the material

What is Sand dune regeneration?

Grasses and bushes planted to stable dunes

What are the advantages of a sea wall?

* Effective at physically stopping the sea from attacking and eroding the land * Usually include a walkway or promenade

What are the advantages of groynes?

* Quick to construct * Physically stop sediment from travelling * Bigger beach attracts tourists

What are the advantages of rip rap?

* Force wave to break and dissipate it's energy | * Quick and cheap to maintain

What are the advantages of beach nourishment?

* Sediment blends in nicely * Easy and cheap to maintain * Attractive to tourists

What are the advantages of sand dune regeneration?

* Developed a natural coastal environment * Encourages wildlife * Relatively cheap

What are the disadvantages of a sea wall?

* Look unnatural and ugly * Restricts access to the beach * Expensive to build and maintain * Beach is eroded

What are the disadvantages of rip rap?

* Boulders are from other regions, so expensive to transport * Restricts access to the beach * The beach underneath may be eroded

What are the disadvantages of groynes?

* Interrupts natural movement - effects other areas further up the coast * They can be ugly

What are the disadvantages of beach nourishment?

* Needs constant replenishment and maintainence * Can become expensive * Occurs in summer, disrupting beach users

What are the disadvantages of sand dune regeneration?

* Areas of beach must be fenced off | * Takes a while to take effect

[CASE STUDY: Dawlish Warren] 1) What landform is there there?

A Spit

[CASE STUDY: Dawlish Warren] 2) What has been installed to try and control the spit?

* Groynes (18) * a sea wall * 'Backbone' or gabions * Beach nourishment