lesson 2 - energy input waves and winds Flashcards

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1
Q

crest?

A

highest point of a wave

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2
Q

trough

A

lowest point of a wave

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3
Q

backwash

A

any water returning down to the sea

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4
Q

wave height

A

the distance between crest and trough

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5
Q

swell

A

waves of low height, gentle steepness, long wavelength and period

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6
Q

wave velocity

A

speed of movement of crest in a given time

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7
Q

wave steepness

A

the ratio of wave height to wavelength

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8
Q

wave period

A

the time taken for one wave to travel through one wavelength

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9
Q

plunge line

A

the point where the wave breaks

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10
Q

swash

A

the body of foaming water rushing up from the beach

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11
Q

wavelength

A

the distance between two successive crests

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12
Q

what are constructive waves?

A

depositional waves as they lead to sediment build up

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13
Q

what are the characteristics of constructive waves?

A
low waves
strong swash 
weak backwash 
break on the shore and deposit material 
Common in summer 
6-8 waves per min
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14
Q

what are the characteristics of destructive waves?

A
Common in winter - storms 
Stronger winds 
Strong backwash 
Weak swash
12-14 per min
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15
Q

what is wave refraction?

A

shallow water around the headland
increases friction
causes wave to break at headland
energy is dissipated into bays

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16
Q

what are waves?

A

the main input into the coastal system

17
Q

what does energy obtained by the waves depend on?

A

wind velocity
length of fetch
period of time during which wind has blown
depth of water