Lecture 8: Fashion During and After the War (1940 - 1965) Flashcards
What happened to women’s employment policies in Italy at the outbreak of WWII?
In 1940, all restrictions on women’s access to employment were suddenly abolished. Women aged 18–45 were ordered to seek employment in place of men while still managing their households.
How did WWII impact women’s roles in society?
Social and political activities mostly mobilized elite aristocratic and middle-class women. Lower-class women supported their emancipation, but this limited female solidarity.
What was the Utility Clothing Scheme?
A state fashion program in Anglo-Saxon countries promoting simple and cheap clothing with the slogan: “Fewer, simpler, better.”
How did Italy approach fashion at the start of WWII?
Italy maintained fashion’s high propaganda value. Fashion magazines like Bellezza continued publishing and avoided mentioning the war until late 1941.
What was the clothing rationing system introduced in Italy in 1941?
Clothing purchases required a points card, issued by municipalities, with different colors and scores based on sex and age.
What were the clothing point values in Italy’s rationing system?
Women’s suit – 69 points
Men’s suit – 75 points
Blouse – 6 points
What was wardrobe mobilization?
Women were encouraged to prioritize essential clothing. Magazines advised versatile clothing choices, such as the “two-faced” dress and cloak, which created the illusion of a larger wardrobe.
How did women adapt their clothing during WWII?
Used accessories (caps, lace, ties) to vary outfits.
Refreshed old clothes with embroidery and added details.
Painted legs to replace tights.
How did skirts and jackets change in WWII fashion?
Skirts returned to knee-length, and fitted jackets with shoulder pads became popular, evoking military uniforms.
How did upper-class women balance wartime austerity in fashion?
They compensated with marked makeup and elaborate hairstyles.
What fashion advice did Dea magazine give during WWII?
It focused on recycling used fabrics and suggested altering old clothes or making garments from bedspreads and curtains.
What was Christian Dior’s New Look?
A return to elegance and femininity, with clothes highlighting women’s waist, breasts, and hips.
What was the representative garment of Dior’s New Look?
The Jacket Bar.
What was the cocktail dress, and when did it emerge?
Introduced in the 1950s, it was worn for cocktail parties and was between daywear and evening gowns in style.
What are the two sides of London fashion?
Tailoring – Serious, masculine fashion (businessmen, bowler hats).
Transgressive – Eccentric youth fashion, miniskirts, music culture.
What was the shift in fashion focus during the 1960s?
It moved from designer-centric fashion → consumer-centric fashion, driven by street style and youth culture.
What were the three main fashion trends in 1960s Europe?
Ladylike elegance (Jackie Kennedy, Audrey Hepburn).
Swinging London & Youthquake fashion (Mary Quant, Twiggy, miniskirts).
Space Age influence (futuristic designs).
What was Jackie Kennedy’s signature fashion style?
Boxy skirt suits, luxurious coats, white gloves, pearls, matching hat.
How did Audrey Hepburn influence 1960s fashion?
She collaborated with Hubert de Givenchy to create stylish, simple wardrobes, including the iconic black dress in Breakfast at Tiffany’s.
How did Mary Quant revolutionize 1960s fashion?
Opened the Bazaar boutique in 1955 in London.
Invented the miniskirt in 1963.
Promoted youthful, accessible fashion with vibrant designs.
What was Swinging London?
A cultural phenomenon (1955–mid-60s) focused on youth, music, and fashion.
Who was Twiggy
Also linked to another symbol of 60s fashion: Twiggy, future supermodel who was the first to wear the miniskirt - Linked to Mary Quant
How did men’s fashion change in the 1950s?
Moved toward informality for the first time.
Inspired by working-class youth rather than the elite.
Who were the Teddy Boys, and what did they wear?
Young working-class men in Britain who readapted New Edwardian suits.
Wore narrow trousers, velvet-collared jackets, and greased-back quiff hairstyles.
What was the influence of Hollywood stars on men’s fashion?
James Dean (Rebel Without a Cause) → White t-shirt, jeans, red jacket.
Marlon Brando (A Streetcar Named Desire) → Tough, rebellious look. also White t-shirt and jeans
The Beatles (1963 debut) → Collarless jackets, signature haircuts.
What was the biggest change in men’s formal wear in the 1950s?
The increasing presence of color in daywear, including Hawaiian shirts.
What was new in men’s suits in the early 1960s?
Slim-fitting trousers, collarless jackets, heeled boots.
How did the influence on men’s fashion shift in the 1960s?
Rock stars became the primary fashion icons, replacing movie stars.
