Lecture 5 - Fashion Between the French Revolution to the Bourbon Restoration Flashcards
What was the Enlightenment?
A cultural, intellectual, and philosophical movement that developed in the 18th century, rooted in 17th-century Europe.
When did the Enlightenment begin and end?
It traditionally began with the death of Louis XIV of France and ended with the French Revolution or the death of Immanuel Kant.
What did the study of corpses reveal about fashion?
Doctors identified the deformations caused by corsets through the study of corpses.
What historical movement preceded the Enlightenment?
The Scientific Revolution, which transformed society’s views on physics, chemistry, astronomy, and biology.
What were the key ideals of the Enlightenment?
Natural rights
Liberty
Progress
Toleration
Fraternity
Empiricism (knowledge based on reason and evidence of the senses)
How was the Enlightenment defined in a broad sense?
Any rationalist form of thought that seeks to illuminate the mind and dispel ignorance and superstition through criticism, reason, and science.
How did science influence the Enlightenment?
Many Enlightenment thinkers had scientific backgrounds and studied man with an empirical and inductive approach, including anatomy and physiology.
How did medical studies impact fashion?
Through the study of corpses, doctors identified deformations caused by corsets, leading to the belief that clothing must respect human morphology and anatomy.
Why were tight clothes viewed negatively?
Tight clothes were seen as diminishing energy and strength.
How were skirts mocked in fashion writings?
Skirts were compared to church bells.
How were bodices criticized?
Bodices were said to squeeze breasts like oranges.
How were women’s bodies described in fashion critiques?
Women’s bodies were described as being “as fixed as sphinxes”.
How did the concept of beauty change?
Beauty was no longer linked to artifice and fixity—clothing needed to be functional to be considered beautiful.
How did English fashion influence France?
The “Made in England” style combined technical progress with an appreciation for the countryside and the outdoors.
What was prioritized in English fashion?
Comfort and simplicity were key principles.
Did English influence change clothing shapes?
No radical change in shape, but softer silhouettes emerged.
How did corsets evolve?
The corset persisted but became softer, often made from canvas without whalebones.
What materials became popular in fashion?
Muslin, gauze, linen, and percale became widely used.
How did the dressing gown change in use?
It transitioned from being worn only during toilette to being worn at intimate private meetings.
What did the deshabillé symbolize?
It was an aristocratic imitation of nature, but also challenged monarchy and power.
What was the French Revolution?
A radical period of change (1789–1799), starting with the Estates General and ending with the French Consulate.
What were the causes of the French Revolution?
A mix of social, economic, and political factors, poorly managed by King Louis XVI.
What event marked the Revolution’s turning point?
The Storming of the Bastille on July 14, 1789.
What radical measures did the Assembly implement?
Abolition of feudalism
State control over the Catholic Church
Extension of voting rights
What was the Declaration of the Rights of Man and of the Citizen?
A foundational human rights document issued in August 1789, emphasizing liberty, equality, and private property.
Who was Olympe de Gouges?
A French playwright and activist who wrote the Declaration of the Rights of Woman and the Female Citizen.
What did de Gouges advocate for?
Equality of civil and political rights between sexes
Divorce rights
Recognition of children born out of wedlock
Welfare system for maternal and child protection
What happened to de Gouges?
She was guillotined in 1793 for her political views.
What happened after the French Revolution?
The Bourbon Restoration re-established absolute monarchy, attempting to return to the Ancien Régime.
How did fashion change under the Bourbon Restoration?
Oversized skirts and corsets made a comeback, reflecting pre-revolutionary styles.
How was women’s role in society affected?
Women were seen as purely decorative, with limited civil and social autonomy.
What was the “doctrine of separate spheres”?
Men = Public sphere, independence, work
Women = Private sphere, dependence, reproduction
What was the ideal image of a woman in the Victorian era?
The “Angel of the Hearth”—a modest, respectable domestic figure.
How were women’s rights restricted?
Married women couldn’t vote, sue, or own property.
How were trousers perceived for women?
Wearing trousers was mocked, and the Bloomer costume was ridiculed as too masculine.
How did men’s fashion evolve in the 19th century?
It became simpler and more functional, reflecting bourgeois values.
What was the “Great Resignation” in fashion?
What was the “Great Resignation” in fashion?
How did gender differences appear in clothing?
Men’s fashion = Simple, dark, serious
Women’s fashion = Pastel, decorative, delicate
How did the Enlightenment affect the “spirit” of fashion?
It partially transformed the idea of dress without changing its shape, since the status of women remained the same—they were still viewed as decorative.
How did the French Revolution change the idea of clothing?
Clothing became associated with freedom and function, as tight, constraining garments were viewed as obstacles to taking an active role in public life.
How did the French Revolution impact men’s clothing?
It led to greater freedom in dress, with clothing taking on political significance.
What political meanings were associated with different fashions?
Jacobins and supporters of democracy → English fashion
Girondins and monarchists → French fashion
How did revolutionary ideals influence fabric choices?
Revolutionary fashion embraced simpler fabrics like cotton and wool while rejecting luxurious embroideries and decorations.
Why did powdered wigs go out of style during the Revolution?
They were seen as symbols of aristocracy and a waste of flour, which was scarce among common people.
What happened to traditional aristocratic shoe styles?
Buckled shoes were considered aristocratic symbols, so black cords were sometimes used instead.
How did the tricolor become a fashion symbol?
The French tricolor (white, red, and blue) was incorporated into clothing details and worn as a cockade on jackets.
Who were the sans-culottes?
Radical revolutionaries who rejected aristocratic culottes and instead wore long trousers, associated with the working class.
What was the Carmagnola jacket?
A short work jacket with pockets, commonly worn by sans-culottes.
How were sans-culottes depicted in revolutionary art?
They were shown with muscular, idealized bodies, contrasting with the thin or obese aristocrats.
What footwear did sans-culottes wear?
They sometimes wore hooves as a rejection of aristocratic fashion.
What patterns were common in sans-culottes clothing?
They often wore striped clothing to symbolize revolutionary ideals.
How did women’s clothing change in the 1790s?
Clothing became looser, with sagging dresses, disappearing bodices, and soft, flowing fabrics.
How did women’s waistlines change during the Revolution?
The belt moved higher, turning into a thin string positioned just below the breast.
What did the shift in women’s fashion symbolize?
A move towards self-liberation, as women sought greater rights and participation in public life.
What were the communicative aspects of clothing during the Revolution?
Clothing reflected freedom, functionality, and sensuality, but the masculine/feminine distinction remained, keeping women within the domestic sphere.
How were women used as symbols in revolutionary art?
Women’s bodies were used as allegories to represent both positive and negative political ideas.
What were the positive symbolic representations of women in revolutionary art?
Classical female bodies represented Liberty, Republic, Victory, Philosophy, Reason, Nature, and Truth.
What were the negative symbolic representations of women in revolutionary art?
Grotesque female figures were used to symbolize discord, enmity, vengeance, and anarchy, warning men about the dangers of women’s involvement in politics.
Did the French Revolution achieve equality between men and women?
No—men and women were still seen as having different destinies, with men belonging to public life and women to domestic life.
What political changes followed the Napoleonic era?
The Bourbon Restoration sought to re-establish absolute monarchy and undo revolutionary progress.
How did Romanticism challenge Enlightenment ideas?
Romanticism rejected rationalism, instead believing history was controlled by God, not by human will.
How did Romanticism influence fashion?
The return to traditional aesthetics brought back oversized skirts and corsets.
How did the Bourbon Restoration affect women’s roles?
Women’s roles became even more restricted, with limited job opportunities and no access to divorce.
How were men’s and women’s roles defined in the Victorian era?
Men = Public, independent, engaged in work
Women = Private, dependent, focused on home and reproduction
What was the legal status of married women in the Victorian era?
They had no right to vote, sue, or own property, making them legally similar to children.
What were the key characteristics of women’s Victorian fashion?
Voluminous skirts (supported by crinolines)
Modest clothing with few accessories
The Victorian era
a historical period roughly corresponding to queen Victorias reign (1837 – 1901)
How were women who wore trousers perceived?
They were mocked and seen as violating gender norms.
Who was George Sand, and what was her significance in fashion?
A writer who smoked, wore jackets and trousers, and was ridiculed for dressing in a masculine way.
What was the Bloomer costume?
A loose-fitting, trouser-like dress introduced by Amelia Bloomer, inspired by Oriental fashion.
Why did the Bloomer costume fail?
It was seen as too radical, too masculine, and closely linked to the women’s rights movement, which made it controversial.
How did men’s fashion change in the 19th century?
It became simpler and more functional, emphasizing utility over beauty.
What did Flugel call men’s shift away from fashion?
“The Great Resignation”—men prioritized pragmatism over aesthetics.
What was the core contrast between men’s and women’s fashion?
Men = Seriousness, simplicity, uniformity
Women = Frivolity, decoration, pastel colors
How did fashion function as a display of status?
A middle-class man’s wealth and prestige were reflected through the elegance of his wife and daughters.
