Lecture 4 - Fashion in Premodern and Modern Era Flashcards
When and where was fashion born?
Fashion was born in Europe during the Middle Ages, with two hypotheses: Italy in the 14th century (Florence, the Renaissance) or France in the 15th century (court of Burgundy).
How did societies approach clothing before fashion emerged?
Before this period, clothing was referred to as “costume” rather than fashion. Societies looked to the past as a reference model for behaviors, including dress.
What major value shift in the Middle Ages contributed to the birth of fashion?
During the Middle Ages, values changed, particularly with the Renaissance (14th/15th century), leading individuals to have greater power to make personal choices, including in aesthetics.
What was the Renaissance?
A historical period that developed in Italy between the end of the Middle Ages and the beginning of the Modern Age, marked by changes in religion, culture, and economy, along with a flourishing of arts and sciences.
What new way of thinking emerged during the Renaissance?
Humanism, which emphasized rediscovering Latin and Greek classics and developing an anthropocentric culture instead of a theocentric one.
What was the goal of Humanism?
To rediscover Latin and Greek classics in their historical context and use culture as an instrument of civil life.
Which key figures influenced Humanism?
The Italian poet Francesco Petrarca (Petrarch) and, to a lesser extent, Giovanni Boccaccio.
How did Humanism redefine the conception of man?
Man was seen as different from the rest of creation, capable of self-determination and cultivating individual talents.
How did Humanism view the body and spirit?
It rejected the separation of spirit and body, praising the pursuit of worldly pleasure and happiness instead of condemning them.
How did the Renaissance impact the role of women?
Upper-class women received an education based on the classics, and some gained prominence in social and political life (e.g., Lucrezia Borgia).
What were the characteristics of traditional medieval dress?
Medieval dress covered the entire body, hiding anatomy. Social distinction was shown through color, fabric type, and decorations.
What change in women’s dress began at the end of the 13th century?
The tightening of the waist became common, marking a cultural revolution where body lines were suggested rather than concealed.
What were the initial reactions to waist-tightening in fashion?
It was considered unseemly and obscene, and some authorities attempted to make it illegal.
What new geometry developed in women’s fashion in the 13th century?
A clear separation between upper and lower body emerged:
The bust was slim, rigid, and corseted
The skirt was wide, long, and flowing
What materials were corsets made from?
Corsets were made of iron or whalebone.
How did corsets alter the body?
Applied bones supplemented the chest structure, artificially shaping the body to fit fashionable silhouettes.
What medical problems did corsets cause?
Squeezed ribs together, overlapping them, preventing the stomach from expanding properly, leading to forced vomiting and starvation.
What were farthingales used for?
Petticoats with rigid slats and cords were used to make skirts larger and more voluminous.
How were women’s legs and feet perceived?
Legs were completely covered, creating an aura of mystery, while smaller feet were considered more graceful.
What was the main function of women’s clothing in this period?
To make women appear elegant and beautiful but also restrict movement, reinforcing a passive social role.
What were the communicative aspects of women’s clothing?
Clothing symbolized gracefulness, delicacy, spirituality but also vanity, superficiality, and fragility that suggested male protection.
What clothing did aristocratic men wear?
Knee-breeches, tights, wide-sleeved shirts, wigs, feathered hats, and high-heeled shoes.
What was more important in fashion during this era: gender or status?
Status differences were emphasized over gender differences, distinguishing members of different social classes.
How did lower-class fashion compare to upper-class fashion?
It had the same shape but used cheaper materials (e.g., hemp, wool blends).
What alternative to farthingales did lower-class women use?
Small pillows placed under the skirt for volume, offering cost savings and improved movement.
How were marginalized people distinguished by clothing?
They were forced to wear specific marks to separate them from “respectable people.”
What clothing rules were imposed on prostitutes?
They were forced to wear yellow elements, rattles on their hoods, or wooden clogs (tappini).
What were chopines, and how did they function?
High-heeled shoes that made women appear monumental and kept their feet above the filth of the streets.
What social shift occurred with chopines?
Noblewomen began wearing them, making them a status symbol rather than just a mark of prostitution.
What clothing rules were imposed on Jews?
Jews were required to wear a brightly colored mark such as a rotella (fabric circle) or a pointed hat.
What historical event led to Jewish segregation in Venice?
In 1516, Jews were forced to live in an enclosed area, giving rise to the term “ghetto.”
Who Were the Marginalized People?
Those with certain illness, criminals, people considered of “low morality” (e.g. prostitutes, homosexuals), or people of other religions (e.g. Jews, Muslims)
