influences on the coastal landscape (BOOKLET 1B AND 1C)

Question 1

name the two types of waves

Answer 1

• constructive
• destructive

Question 2

what type of waves would characterise a depositional coastline

Answer 2

constructive

Question 3

what are the 2 ways, that the wind is able to shape the coastline in

Answer 3

• firstly the frictional drag, that it has on the surface of the ocean is able to create waves, which are capable of carrying out coastal marine erosion, transport and deposition
• secondly, the wind itself is able to carry out erosion, transport and deposition. These processes combine to create aeolian landforms, such as coastal dunes.

Question 4

what type of waves would characterise a erosional coastline

Answer 4

destructive

Question 5

how are wave cut platforms formed

Answer 5

where a Seacliff is eroded by marine action, meaning waves, resulting in the deposition of cliff material and formation of a bedrock area where erosion occurred.

Question 6

what are the main sources of sediment

Answer 6

• fluvial inputs, from the river
• inputs from the sea
• aeolian process, carrying small amounts of sediment

Question 7

what is fetch

Answer 7

The area in which ocean waves are generated by the wind.

Question 8

why does Clacton on sea struggle to get waves, compared to somewhere like Maui in Hawaii

Answer 8

due it having a relatively short fetch distance, compared to that of the top surf spots

Question 9

wave length =

Answer 9

distance from crest to crest

Question 10

wave crest =

Answer 10

highest point of the wave

Question 11

wave trough =

Answer 11

lowest point of the wave

Question 12

swash =

Answer 12

movement of water, up the beach after a wave has broken

Question 13

spilling breaker =

Answer 13

long wave length, gentle bottom slope

Question 14

plunging breaker =

Answer 14

moderate slope, high crest and large backwash

Question 15

surging breaker =

Answer 15

steep slope, short wave length, high wave height

Question 16

why does wind allow waves to growth in size?

Answer 16

due to transferring its’ energy, into fluvial energy meaning that there is a larger force behind the waves

Question 17

name 3 characteristic of constructive waves

Answer 17

• weak backwash
• low, flat waves
• pushes sediment on to the beach (causes a buildup of sediment)

Question 18

name 4 characteristics of destructive waves

Answer 18

• strong back wash
• large steep waves
• plunges over pulling sediment of the beach
• erodes cliffs

Question 19

what creates large waves

Answer 19

• large fetch
• large bodies of water

Question 20

what is a sediment cell

Answer 20

A sediment cell is a largely self-contained stretch of coastline. They are regarded as closed systems as sediment is not usually transferred from one to the other. In reality, some sediment does get transferred between neighbouring cells. Each major sediment cell typically has many smaller sub-cells.

Question 21

know how to calculate standard deviation

Answer 21

Question 22

concordant

Answer 22

A concordant, or longitudinal type coastline occurs where beds, or layers, of differing rock types are folded into ridges that run parallel to the coast.

Question 23

discordant

Answer 23

A discordant coastline occurs where bands of different rock type run perpendicular to the coast. The differing resistance to erosion leads to the formation of headlands and bays.

Question 24

lithology

Answer 24

the study of rocks. : the character of a rock formation. also : a rock formation having a particular set of characteristics.

Question 25

geology

Answer 25

a science that deals with the history of the earth and its life especially as recorded in rocks.

Question 26

what is the angle of dip

Answer 26

the angle of the strata (layers) in sedimentary rocks. when compared to horizontal, is important because it influences the cliff profile

Question 27

why does warmer water speed up erosion

Answer 27

due to substances dissolving quicker meaning that more solution could be present, that could weaken the rock thus making hydraulic action and abrasion more effective.

Question 28

what influences the tide

Answer 28

the moon

Question 29

when can one expect spring and neap tides

Answer 29

in each lunar month one can expect 2 neap tides and 2 spring tides.

Question 30

Macro tides

Answer 30

on the edge of large continents and seas

Question 31

micro tides

Answer 31

on the edge of enclosed areas

Question 32

what effects tidal range

Answer 32

• ocean size
• land formations
• the depth of the oceanic basin (how shallow or deep it is)

Question 33

how does the tide effect erosion

Answer 33

depending on the type of tide, depends on what part of the rock is more target by erosional process

Question 34

what is a closed coastal system

Answer 34

there is input, transfer and output of energy but not of matter. I.e. everything stays within the system

Question 35

what is a open coastal system

Answer 35

there are, inputs, output’s of energy and matter. most environmental system are open systems

Question 36

two types of coastlines

Answer 36

• drift aligned
• swash aligned

Question 37

what is terrestrial sediment

Answer 37

Land-derived sediment can be provided by mass movement (e.g., rockfalls, landslides, and debris flows), especially where cliffs composed of material susceptible to such processes are being actively undercut.

Question 38

what is offshore sediment

Answer 38

Constructive waves bring sediment to the shore from offshore locations and deposit it, adding to the sediment budget. Tides and currents do the same. Wind also blows sediment from other locations, including exposed sandbars, dunes and beaches elsewhere along the coast.

Question 39

what is a positive feedback loop

Answer 39

A positive feedback loop occurs in nature when the product of a reaction leads to an increase in that reaction. , a positive feedback loop moves a system further away from the target of equilibrium

Question 40

what is a negative feedback loop

Answer 40

A negative feedback decreases the amount of change by reducing some of the inputs, returning the system to stability

Question 41

does the moon or the sun have more influence on the tide and why is this?

Answer 41

the moon, due to it being closer, causing it to have more gravitational potential

Question 42

how are waves created

Answer 42

waves are created, by wind blowing over the surface of the water. Out to sea this creates oscillation waves which will have no forward momentum of water, only energy is transferred forward. The wave height depends on the strength and duration of the wind, the depth of the water and the length of the fetch. The fetch, is defined as the uninterrupted distance, across the ocean over which the wind blows and therefore the distance the waves have had to grow.