Fish

Question 1

Freshwater Aquariums

Environmental

Answer 1

A well-made aquarium is essential for supporting the weight of all the water. Most aquariums consist of glass or acrylic.

Range in sizes from 7.6 L (2 US Gal) to 760 L (200 US Gal).

larger the aquarium, the easier it is to maintain and the the healthier the environment is for your fish.

A tank between 38 L (10 US Gal) and 125.4 L (33 US Gal) is ideal for someone starting their first aquarium.

Aquarium Stand – Water is heavy! It weighs more than 3.63 kg (8 lbs) per 3.8 L (1 US Gal). _{Many bookshelves or side tables will not support that much weight.} As well, you will require a place to put your filter and other equipment.

Aquarium Canopy – A well fitting cover protects the fish from outside contaminants and helps to reduce temperature fluctuation and evaporation.

Gravel – Simulate your fishes’ natural environment. It will retain solid debris and provide substrate for live plants to grow in.
— Average amount of gravel required is 0.6 to 0.9 kg per 3.7 L of water (1 ½ to 2 lbs per gallon), creating approximately 5 cm (2 in.) on the bottom of the aquarium.

Heater and Thermometer – A heater is necessary to maintain a constant temperature of 24°–25°C (76°–78°F), which is comfortable for most freshwater fish.
— Fish are sensitive to temperature fluctuations, so investing in a quality heater that is easy to set and adjust is good sense. You need a thermometer to read the temperature of the water.

Question 2

Environmental

Light bulbs

Answer 2

Light Fixture and Bulb(s) – Light fixtures are available in LED, fluorescent or incandescent. LED lighting is an energy efficient light source that produces a bright light, which provides amazing colour and shimmering effects for fish.

LEDs are used in aquarium light fixtures as supplementary or independent light sources.

Fluorescent lights create a bright, natural appearance to any aquarium.

Both LED and fluorescent bulbs operate at a cooler temperature, which is less likely to affect the temperature of an aquarium.

Incandescent lights do not illuminate your tank as well, and they create heat. Although they are less expensive to purchase initially, you must replace incandescent bulbs more often.

Question 3

Freshwater

NUTRITIONAL

Answer 3

A Variety of Food – All fish are constantly searching for food. In their natural habitat they will find many varieties of tasty morsels.
— Flake foods and pellet foods provide a staple diet and you should offer these daily.

Adding different foods, such as freeze-dried tubifex worms, frozen blood worms or algae discs will help to keep your fish healthy and colourful! You should feed your fish two to three times a day.

Ensure that your fish eat all the food, since uneaten food may pollute the aquarium.

Question 4

Freshwater

BEHAVIOURAL

Answer 4

These are necessary to give your fish a place to retreat and swim around.

Just as you would be uncomfortable in a room without furniture, your fish need their decorations for security.

Live, silk or plastic plants, driftwood, artificial decorations and aquarium safe rocks enhance the beauty of your freshwater aquarium.

The general rule is to create one hiding spot per fish.

Question 5

Freshwater

MAINTENANCE

Answer 5

Filter Systems – A filter serves to remove toxic waste in the water created by your fish and decaying fish foods.

Power Filters – We offer these filters in many styles that can be placed inside (internal), hang-on (external) or underneath (canister) the aquarium. An internal motor powers these for quiet operation. They have convenient cartridges to clean or replace. Power filters use three styles of filtration: mechanical, chemical and biological.

Gravel Cleaning Siphon – A gravel cleaner is like a vacuum. It sucks up dirt, debris and toxins that you may not see, which are present in the water and gravel. Gravel cleaning your aquarium by removing 20 – 25% of the water every three to four weeks will reduce the accumulation of toxic waste. Partial water changes are the single most important procedure you will perform on your aquarium.

Water Conditioner – This removes the chlorine and neutralizes heavy metals in the water. Many also have a natural additive that replaces “slime” lost by stressed out fish.

Bacteria Supplement – the use of a bottled bacteria additive will help kick start your aquarium by eating up the harmful toxins produced by your fish and assist in developing a biological cycle.

Algae Scraper – This removes unwanted algae growth that may appear on your ornaments and tank glass.

Question 6

Freshwater

Setting up the tank

Answer 6

Since you are setting up a new environment for your fish, you may need to wait a couple of days to allow the aquarium to acclimatize before adding fish. Start populating your tank with just a few hardy fish.

Your aquarium will take up to two months to create a healthy biological environment. Be patient, add fish and live plants slowly.

Question 7

Freshwater

Introducing New Fish into Your Aquarium

Answer 7

Travelling from one aquarium to another can be very stressful for fish. Extreme temperature changes (hot or cold) can adversely affect your fish’s health

During this period fish may be unable to produce or repair their slime coat. A fish’s slime coat is their natural protection against injury to skin, scales and parasitic infestations such as Ich (which can be present in established aquariums).

Wrapping up your fish bag in paper or keep them inside your warm jacket. Go directly home to lessen the transport time.

When you arrive at home, float the sealed bag of fish in your aquarium for 10 – 15 minutes to allow the water temperature in the fish bag to adjust to the aquarium’s temperature.

While you are waiting, add new decorations or rearrange the decorations in your aquarium to create new hiding places for all your fish.

Use an aquarium fish net to transfer only the fish from the fish bag into your aquarium. Discard the water and the bag. Then add a bacterial supplement to boost the biological filtration in your aquarium, which will benefit all your fish.

To help reduce health problems, we recommend adding a full dose of water conditioner as a slime coat additive, and aquarium salt (if permitted) as an electrolyte booster.

Monitor your new arrivals, along with your other fish, for the first 48 hours. Look for signs of stress, such as loss of colour, clamped or frayed fins, unusual grey patches or white spots and a lack of appetite.

Question 8

Freshwater

Check list

Answer 8

Aquarium

Aquarium stand

Substrate (gravel or sand)

Plants (live or artificial plants)

Decorations – driftwood, rocks or artificial resin-based decorations (you should create at least one hiding spot per fish)

Aquarium heater and thermometer

Water conditioner (chlorine remover)

Aquarium filter (submersible, hang-on style and canister models available)

Bacteria supplement (for biological filtration)

Water test kits

Mineral and pH supplements

Aquarium canopy, lights and programmable timer

A variety of fish food

Gravel cleaning siphon

Fish net

Question 9

Aquarium Salt - A Healthy Prevantative

Adding Aquarium Salt Can:

Answer 9

_{It does not contain iodine like ordinary table salt. It does not contain trace minerals like that of sea salt.}

Aid in the treatment or control many parasitic populations (including Ich) when added to the aquarium if used properly.

Enhance your fish’s ability to produce a protective slime coat. This is especially helpful if your fish are recovering from a bacterial infection or an injury, such as a torn fin.

Prevent intake of lethal nitrites during the nitrogen cycle when starting a new tank.

Lessen stress by aiding gill function. Fish kidneys are designed to excrete the water absorbed through the fish’s skin and gills. This is a big job and a constant one necessary for your fish’s survival.

By adding aquarium salt to the water, the fish’s kidneys do less work, because the amount of water absorbed into the blood by way of gills is reduced.

Question 10

Aquarium Salt

When and How To Add Salt

Answer 10

Products give usage instructions on their aquarium salt packages.

Some hobbyists use aquarium salt only as a general tonic or preventative. Others use it in higher concentrations to treat for existing parasites. It can even be used to hatch brine shrimp eggs.

As An Illness Preventative:

It is not necessary to add aquarium salt all the time, although some fish like

Goldfish and Livebearers benefit from maintaining a constant level of one tablespoon for 5 gallons of aquarium water.

Aquarium salt should always be pre-dissolved in a container of water before being added to the aquarium.

The salt concentration in an aquarium increases with evaporation. Do not add aquarium salt when replacing water due to evaporation.

When you are performing a water exchange on your aquarium, you can add more aquarium salt. Only add the amount of salt based on the amount of water you removed while syphoning with your Gravel Cleaner.

Preventative Dosage:
One teaspoon of Aquarium Salt to 1 ½ gallons of water.

Two teaspoons of Aquarium Salt to 3 gallons of water.

One Tablespoon of Aquarium Salt to 5 gallons of water.

Question 11

Aquarium Salt

When Aquarium Salt is Used as a Disease Treatment:

Answer 11

Salt is most beneficial when used in combination with other medications when treating ill fish.

The concentration of aquarium salt used can slowly be increased for aiding ill fish.

As a general rule, start with one tablespoon of salt for 5 gallons of aquarium water. This is a safe dosage for all fish.

Observe the aquarium for 24 hours. The addition of aquarium salt increases the fishes’ activity level, decreases laboured gill movement and the fish should show signs of improved coloration.

If there is no improvement, the salt dosage can be repeated for up to four days.

On the fifth day, perform a 25% water exchange.

Repeat the water exchange once a week for four weeks without adding more aquarium salt to slowly reduce the salt concentration.

Question 12

Aquarium Salt

Aquarium Plants, Bottom-Feeders & Delicate Species

Answer 12

Although the benefits of aquarium salt are many, there are a few drawbacks that freshwater hobbyists need to consider before adding it to their tanks.

Live plants cannot survive in treatment concentrations of aquarium salt. Some plant species should not be kept in aquariums containing aquarium salt.

Fish spawning, as well, can be affected by addition of salt because it can dehydrate eggs and kill sperm emitted by male species.

Some fish species, especially bottom feeders like Chinese algae eaters and Corydoras catfish, are sensitive to aquarium salt and may become distressed if concentrations are too high.

These fish may adjust to a low concentration of aquarium salt in their water if the desired concentration of aquarium salt is added over several days.

Therefore, hobbyists should avoid dumping all the aquarium salt into the tank at one time if delicate species are in the tank.

Question 13

Setting Up Your New Aquarium

Checklist

Answer 13

Aquarium

Aquarium stand

Substrate (gravel or sand)

Plants (live or artificial plants)

Decorations – driftwood, rocks or artificial resin-based decorations (you should create at least one hiding spot per fish)

Aquarium heater and thermometer

Water conditioner (chlorine remover)

Aquarium filter (submersible, hang-on style and canister models available)

Bacteria supplement (for biological filtration)

Water test kits

Mineral and pH supplements

Aquarium canopy, lights and programmable timer

A variety of fish food

Gravel cleaning siphon

Fish net

Question 14

Setting Up Your New Aquarium

Answer 14

_{1. Before you start setting anything up, take an inventory of your supplies. Rinse all your equipment (including the aquarium) in clear tap water to remove any contaminants.}

_{2. Place the aquarium on an appropriate aquarium stand, away from direct sunlight, as well as heating and cooling vents. Be sure the tank is sitting level. Fill the aquarium with 4 cm (1 ½ in) of water. Rinse the substrate (gravel/sand) thoroughly. The gravel should be sloped higher in the back to allow for better decoration anchorage.}

_{3. Fill the tank half full of water. Pouring the water into a temporary container (2 cups), placed inside the aquarium, will prevent the gravel from being disturbed and reduce a cloudy appearance. Next, add plants, rocks and driftwood to create an environment your fish will thrive in. The decorations should be arranged in a horseshoe-shaped diorama to provide adequate hiding places for your “wet pets.” Oddly enough, the more decorations you have, the more visible your fish will become. The centre of the aquarium should be mainly open to allow for a free swimming area.}

_{4. Finish filling the tank with water and then remove the temporary container. Place the aquarium heater in the tank but do not turn it on at this time. Allow the heater glass to acclimate to the water temperature in the aquarium for one hour before plugging it in. You can camouflage the heater behind the decorations. Put the thermometer in a place opposite of the heater.}

_{5. Equip the aquarium with a filter system. If using an internal filter, place it in the tank toward the back and hide the filter using plants or driftwood. If you are using an external filter, place it at the back of the tank or underneath. Hide the intake tube, which draws water from the tank to the filter, with decorations, but still allow for circulation. Add water conditioner to the aquarium, and turn on the filtration system. Be sure to prime any pumps with water, prior to starting.}

_{6. Test the pH and water hardness of your aquarium using an aquarium test kit. Make any necessary adjustments to the water using the proper water condition supplements to recreate an environment specific for your fish. Creating a similar pH and hardness to your fish’s natural habitat will help to alleviate stress and produce brighter colours in your fish.}

_{7. Now place the aquarium canopy in position and make any adjustments (cut outs in the back) to accommodate the heater, filter and cords. Plug the canopy light into an automatic light timer and set the timer for 10 to 12 hours a day.}

_{8. Plug in the aquarium heater and make any final adjustments to the heater in order to stabilize a temperature between 24°–25°C (76°–78°F) depending on the fish you have chosen. Make adjustments every half hour until the desired temperature is achieved.}

_{9. Wait one to two days before adding fish, to ensure the correct water temperature and everything is running properly. Adding fish too soon after the initial set up can be unsafe for them. Constantly fluctuating temperatures or too much suspended debris dangerously increases their stress level.}

Question 15

Setting Up Your New Aquarium

Testing the water

Answer 15

All new aquarium set ups need to develop beneficial bacteria to create a biological cycle in the aquarium.

This filter conditioning process is referred to as “New Tank Syndrome.”

This takes approximately five to seven weeks to develop, depending on the specifics of each aquarium.

We recommend using a bacteria supplement to assist in developing a biological cycle in the aquarium.

Over the next several weeks, we recommend weekly water quality testing.

When the water tests of ammonia and nitrite reach zero, more fish species can be added.

For your convenience, we recommend the appropriate water test kits which will allow you to accurately test your aquarium water at home.

Question 16

Setting Up Your New Aquarium

Water exchanges

Answer 16

Partial water changes are the single most important procedure you will perform on your aquarium.

For the first two months, remove 20 – 25% of the water every week using a gravel cleaning siphon.

Replace it with freshwater that has been treated with a water conditioner.

As the aquarium matures (two – three months), the period between water changes can be increased to every three to four weeks.

Periodic water testing will help to determine a water change schedule that is right for your aquarium.

Adding water (due to evaporation) weekly will reduce fluctuations in water chemistry.

Question 17

How to Feed Your Fish

Answer 17

Improper feeding techniques are the number one cause of fish health problems.

Uneaten fish foods quickly spoil. If your fish eats spoiled food, they could become sick or disinterested at feeding time.

As fish food decays in the aquarium, it can create dangerously high levels of ammonia.

Fish become excited at feeding time, quite often missing the opportunity to eat all the food before it sinks to the bottom or gets drawn into the filter.

Having a fish net is very handy to remove any excess food your fish may have missed.

Offer very small amounts of food at a time.

Once the food is consumed, repeat the same procedure and continue to watch them eat.

You can repeat this feeding method three to four times to ensure that even shy fish can participate at feeding time

Question 18

Guideline for starting amount of fish in a new tank

Answer 18

In the beginning, only a small number of fish can be added to the tank.

As a guideline, we recommend one 3 cm (1”) length of fish to 38 L (10 US gal.) of tank water to safely start your new aquarium.

Question 19

Do Your Fish Look Hungry?

Variation in food

Answer 19

Feed your fish like they would naturally eat in the wild.

Fish spend all day foraging for something to nibble on to satisfy their incurable appetite.

It keeps them busy and provides a balanced diet to make them healthy, happy and colourful.

If your fish are fed the same food at the same time everyday, their behaviour will begin to change.

Some aquarium fish float motionless all day rather than hunt.

Others become more aggressive toward tank mates when boredom sets in.

Aquarium fish fed only old, dry staple food can encounter health problems and lose their colours, which are so vibrantly displayed in natural waters.

Offering a mix of flakes, pellets, crisp flakes along with frozen or freeze-dried fish foods can improve your fish’s disposition and health.

Give your fish a different food at every feeding.

Question 20

Do Your Fish Look Hungry?

Natural Foods to Consider:

Answer 20

Brine Shrimp – This little crustacean is a favourite among all small tropical fish. they are available in frozen or freeze-dried states. Live brine shrimp eggs can easily be hatched at home in salt water kept at 25°C (77°F) and aerated with a common air stone. Once the eggs hatch, the baby brine shrimp need only be rinsed in tap water before offering them to your fish.

Krill and Other Plankton – These great treats have enormous benefits for your fish. They are available in frozen or freeze-dried states. Krill are rich in omega 3, omega 6 and provide a powerful antioxidant called astaxanthin. These are supplements which are not found in sufficient quantities in basic fish food. Planktons are a source of beta-carotene, which will increase the red factors in fish colouration. _{Central and South American cichlids will benefit from krill.}

Red Grubs (Blood Worms) – Due to their bright red colouring, these fly larvae are fantastic for improving the colouration of your fish. They are available in frozen or freeze-dried states. _{They are a favourite food among bettas, gouramis and livebearers.}

Spirulina Flakes, Pellets and Discs – Spirulina is considered a super food because it contains the most remarkable concentration of nutrients known in any food, plant, grain or herb. The perfect food for your herbivourous fish and a great supplement to any diet.

Tubifex Worms – In their live form, these worms have gotten a bad rap in the past, having been known as disease transmitters. Freeze-dried and frozen tubifex worms are a clean and healthy alternative fish food. The compacted worms can be stuck to the inside glass of the aquarium to offer a feeding challenge to your fish. _{Catfish and loaches dream of feasting on tubifex.}

Question 21

Do Your Fish Look Hungry?

Shape and Texture

Answer 21

Flake-style food are best for small to medium-sized fish and provide the cleanest source of food for your aquarium.
The flake shape remains floating on the surface for better visibility. Do not crush fish foods into smaller pieces.
Larger sizes are more visible to the fish. Once flake food becomes wet, the texture becomes soft and easy for the fish to bite.
Small crumbs and dust will settle into the gravel or become clogged in the filter.

Pellet-style food are less processed and usually offers better nutritional value. Pellets foods are available in sinking and suspended formats to allow fish to eat in a more natural behaviour. Select a pellet size smaller than your fishes’ mouths, but large enough to be visible. Pre-soaking pelleted foods in freshwater for two minutes will soften the pellets to allow delicate eaters to readily consume the food.

Crisp-style flakes and crumbles are best for medium to large species and offer similar benefits to both flakes and pellets. The different textures are greatly appreciated by your “wet pets.”

Freeze-dried foods offer a natural food source without the need for refrigeration or the hassle of keeping them alive. Rehydrating small portions of freeze-dried foods prior to feeding is recommended.

Frozen foods provide all the nutritional values of their live counterparts. Even picky eaters find frozen foods hard to resist. It is recommended to thaw out small portions before offering these foods to your fish.

Question 22

Do Your Fish Look Hungry?

Food Storage

Answer 22

All fish foods are properly packaged to maintain nutritional quality.

Once the container is opened, vitamin content and freshness begin to deteriorate.

Always store dry foods in a sealed container in a cool and dark location to maintain the quality as long as possible.

Purchase food containers that will be consumed in a two-month period.

Question 23

New Tank Syndrome

Answer 23

_{When starting a new aquarium, you have to introduce your new fish slowly into the aquarium. but you have to allow nature and its biological processes to develop properly for the health and safety of the inhabitants.}

_{One of the most important aspects of a successful aquarium is the nitrogen cycle and its ability to act as a biological filtration. This filter conditioning process takes between five to seven weeks to develop in new aquarium setups. This initial period is referred to as “New Tank Syndrome.”}

Question 24

New Tank Syndrome

Selecting Your First Fish

Answer 24

They are needed to consume food and produce waste to start the biological cycle. They have to be able to withstand the temporary high levels of ammonia and nitrite, which occur during New Tank Syndrome.

The initial type and quantity of fish will depend on the size of your aquarium and the overall species your are planning to have.
Some fish species are too sensitive to these conditions and do not react favourably to New Tank Syndrome.

Question 25

What Happens During New Tank Syndrome

Answer 25

First, you should set up your aquarium and let it run for 24-48 hours (to allow debris to settle and ensure your aquarium heater is maintaining the correct water temperature).

Now you can introduce your first fish. Follow the recommended landing procedures as instructed by your pet counsellor. Your fish can be fed one to three times daily by using small quantities of food

In the first week as the fish secrete their waste, it will accumulate as ammonia in the aquarium.

A colony of beneficial bacteria (Nitrosomonas), in the water, will begin to “feed” off the ammonia and convert it to nitrite. In some aquariums the bacteria may not develop successfully in the first couple of days.

This bacteria bloom will present itself as cloudy water but shouldn’t be a cause for concern and will clear up within a few days.

Question 26

Ammonia in the Aquarium

Answer 26

If the ammonia rises too high (above 10 mg/L), it may pose a deadly threat to the fish and the Nitrosomonas colony.

To reduce the ammonia, we recommend placing ammonia removing zeolite in your aquarium filter especially during the starting period of your new aquarium. It is also beneficial to perform a 20% water exchange using an aquarium gravel cleaner.

The Nitrosomonas usually takes approximately seven days to establish a sufficient colony for your aquarium. This process can take longer in cold water or marine aquariums, or if the fish were not fed properly. We recommend daily ammonia water testing to accurately observe this stage of New Tank Syndrome.

Question 27

Nitrite in the Aquarium

Answer 27

Nitrite is not as harmful to most fish as ammonia, but over a prolonged period can dangerously compromise their oxygen-absorbing capabilities.

After seven days a second beneficial bacteria (Nitrobacter) will colonize within the aquarium filter media. These bacteria “feed” on nitrite and create the common plant fertilizer ingredient nitrate.

This second bacteria takes quite a bit longer to multiply and establish in the aquarium. The average time is from four to six weeks.

In the first two months of your aquariums’ operation, we recommend using an aquarium bacteria supplement on a weekly basis to assist in the development of both beneficial bacteria. The development period of Nitrobacter differs from one aquarium to the next depending on the aquarium size, specific water conditions and fish feeding procedures.

If the nitrite rises too high (above 25 mg/L), it can dramatically prolong the development of the Nitrobacter colony.

We recommend performing a 20% water exchange once a week (during this period) using an aquarium gravel cleaner to dilute the nitrite level.

Aquarium filters can be rinsed in de-chlorinated water, but should not be replaced during this cycling period.

When the Nitrite Aquarium Water Test returns to 0 mg/L, it is safe to add more fish to your aquarium. Introduce only a few fish at a time on a weekly basis until you have reached a safe capacity for your aquarium.

Question 28

Nitrate in the Aquarium

Answer 28

Nitrates, unless found in high levels, are usually not harmful to the fish. It will, however, increase the growth rate of algae and aquarium plants.

The most common methods of reducing nitrates, is to perform a 20-25% water exchange using an aquarium gravel cleaner every three to four weeks to dilute the nitrate level.

We recommend growing live aquarium plants whenever possible. It is a natural method of reducing the nitrate in your aquarium and slowing down the growth of algae.

Question 29

Alleviating Stress in the Aquarium

Answer 29

The stress created from elevated ammonia and nitrite can have some ill effects on your fish.

Testing your aquarium’s water quality is the best method to identifying these stressors.

Having your own aquarium test kits at home is beneficial and convenient.

Question 30

Keeping Live Plants

Answer 30

Aquatic plants are a natural benefit to your aquarium:

They convert carbon dioxide into oxygen. Oxygen is essential to the inhabitant of your aquarium. The increased oxygen levels will also boost your aquarium’s biological filtration capability.

Nitrates are plant nutrients, which are created by natural biological filtration. Phosphates are also plant nutrients found in fish waste. Without live plants in the aquarium, these nutrients would build-up causing algae to grow faster.

Question 31

Keeping Live Plants

Environmental

Answer 31

Lighting – All plants require light to grow, but sunlight shining through the window can cause problems in the aquarium. Intense sunlight would cause an increased growth of unsightly algae. The heat coming off the window can also cause the water temperature to fluctuate. Incandescent lights are not recommended for live plants, because they are either not bright enough or produce too much heat.

Flourescent lighting is suitable for growing live plants. To calculate how much flourescent light is needed, average about two watts of light per gallon (3.8 L) of water. A combination of plant growth and daylight bulbs are recommended. To maintain the optimum amount of light for your plants, replace your bulbs once a year.

Temperature – Most plants do not demand a specific temperature, as long as it does not exceed 82°F (28°C).

Aquarium Gravel – The best gravel for a plant’s root development is a fine to medium grade. The gravel base should be at least 2 ½ inches for proper root development.

Fluorite® and Laterite – This natural type of river clay (rich in fertilizers) can be used in combination with aquarium gravel. This type of mix will provide a base of necessary nutrients for good root growth and development of the plants planted in the gravel.

Question 32

Keeping Live Plants

Nutritional

Answer 32

Plant foods should be added to the aquarium for the growth and health of aquatic plants. Each aquarium utilizes these nutrients at different rates. Water testing is the best method of judging when and how much to add.

Nitrogen and Phosphate Fertilizers – Adding extra nitrogen and phosphates is necessary for new set-ups. As these nutrients are created, the plant life will absorb them. The quantity of live plants and adversely live fish will determine whether it will be necessary to supplement in established aquariums.

Iron and trace element fertilizers are necessary for plant growth and vibrant plant colours and should be added to the water on a regular basis.

Question 33

Keeping Live Plants

Aquarium Gardening

Answer 33

Bunch Plants – remove the rubber band or lead weight so that each strand can be prepped and planted. To prep the plant strand, a 1 ½ inches bare stem is needed. Pull off all the leaves down to the node (where the leaf connects to the stem), which will allow the bare stem to grow roots. The plant stems can now be floated in the aquarium for a few days to develop roots or be wrapped in rock wool and planted.

Bare Root Plants – These plants need to be planted like house plants. Dig a hole in the gravel large enough to accommodate the roots. Gently place the plant roots in the hole and spread them out. Carefully cover the roots with enough gravel to secure it in place. Make sure you don’t push the crown of the plant (the node from where all the plant stems radiate) below the gravel surface, doing so can damage the crown and alter growth.

Mounted Plants – Some plant species root on wood and rocks and will require a little help. Use fishing line to attach the plant base and roots to the driftwood rocks you wish to grow plants on. After the plant roots have grown and attached themselves securely to the wood or rock, the fishing line can be carefully cut away.

Question 34

Keeping Live Plants

MAINTENANCE

Answer 34

Pruning – Just like the plants in your household, aquatic plants (especially bunch plants) require trimming. As an aquarium plant grows, it will become thick with leaves and will block the light from reaching the other plants below. Aquatic plant trimmers have extended handles which allow you the easily reach into your aquarium and prune your plants.

Leaf Removal – Periodically plants will lose leaves due to lack of lighting or damage caused by fish nibbling on them. Decaying leaves can cause excess pollution and a decrease in pH.

On a weekly basis, remove any decaying or damaged leaves to maintain healthy plants and a clean aquarium.

Question 35

Keeping Live Plants

Checklist

Answer 35

Fluorescent lights

2 ½” aquarium gravel

Laterite gravel additive

Nitrogen & phosphate fertilizer

Iron & trace element fertilizer

Aquatic plant trimmer or rocks you wish to grow plants on. After the plant roots have grown and attached themselves securely to the wood or rock, the fishing line can be carefully cut away.