Dessert & Sparkling production

Question 1

Madeira

Answer 1

1. Estufa

De-Stemming and Crushing: 100% of the harvest is de-stemmed.

Addition of SO2 and pectolytic enzymes.

Pressing: Generally, Tinta Negra destined for dry or medium dry styles of Three Year Old Madeira is pressed prior to fermentation, whereas grapes intended for sweeter styles are pressed during fermentation.

Fermentation: Fermentation occurs in large temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. All houses rely on ambient rather than cultured yeasts. Fermentation temperatures for Tinta Negra range from a cool 68° F to nearly 90° F, depending on the house style.

Monitoring Residual Sugar Levels: Depending on the desired sweetness of the final wine, the winemaker may allow fermentation to continue for a day to a week or more. During this period, the winemaker keeps careful watch over the level of remaining sugar by measuring density with a hydrometer.

Fortification: Once the wine achieves the desired level of sugar the winemaker adds wine alcohol (96% abv) to fortify the wine to at least 17% abv. Generally, producers add alcohol directly to the fermentation tank to fortify the wine.

Clarification: After fortification, the wine is fined (usually with bentonite) and it may be filtered as well.

Estufagem: The fortified, clarified wine is now placed in an estufa for a period of 3 months. The estufas resemble stainless steel fermentation tanks, but they incorporate an interior heating element (either hot water coils or a heating “jacket”). During its time in the estufa, the wine heats to 45-50° C (113-122° F). The heat caramelizes sugars in the wine over time, and causes color to precipitate. Some houses may add tannins and enzymes to the wine in order to stabilize color.

The Cool Down: At the conclusion of the estufagem process, the wine must cool prior to being exposed to air, or severe oxidation and excessive volatile acidity may result. The wines typically cool to ambient temperature within 3 weeks, at which point they are clarified again. Justino’s, for instance, will often fine the wines at this point with a mixture of bentonite, silica gel, and gelatin. Sugar and alcohol levels may be corrected.

Following the cool-down, the wines are usually transferred to neutral casks of varying sizes to rest for the next 2-3 years.

Blending: Once the wine has rested, the winemaker will assemble a lote, or blend, on a small scale. Samples will be analyzed, tasted, corrected, and finally performed on a large scale. The blended wine rests for approximately 6 months. For a young Madeira, the blend may include some older wines to add complexity.

Cold Stabilization: The wine is transferred to a cold stabilization tank and held at -8° C (17.5° F) to remove tartrates prior to bottling.

IVBAM Approval: Prior to bottling, the IVBAM will taste and analyze samples of the finished wine. If approved, individually numbered seals will be issued for the wine.

Bottling: The wine is bottled within 6 months of the IVBAM’s approval. Bottling may not occur until 12 months after the conclusion of the estufagem process.

2. Canteiro

Every production company on the island reserves some Tinta Negra and all noble white grapes—Sercial, Boal, Verdelho, Malvasia, and Terrantez—for canteiro aging. Winemaking through fortification is in many ways identical to the steps outlined above, except that the noble grapes are generally pressed prior to the start of fermentation.

Barbeito actually uses a robotic lagar and skin maceration for Malvasia, and Justino’s is experimenting with similar skin macerations for the grape, but such treatment is uncommon.

After fortification, the wines are transferred to neutral casks. Casks vary in size and origin, depending on the producer. The Madeira Wine Company and D’Oliveira use only American oak casks, the traditional wood used for Madeira barrels, as they believe it lends the wines better color and complexity. Justino’s uses a mixture of American, Portuguese, and French oak–the latter in the form of used Cognac barrels. At Justino’s, casks range from 300 liters to 650 liters—the traditional size—to immense 40,000 liter wooden vats. Barbeito uses only French oak.

Legally, Canteiro wines may be released after only two years in wood, but producers generally reserve this method for 5 Year Old, 10 Year Old, 15 Year Old, 20 Year Old, and vintage styles.

Wines mature much more slowly in the canteiro method than in estufas, and often take a minimum five years to show an inkling of complexity. Sercial is often the slowest to develop, needing seven or eight years in cask before its character becomes apparent. During this lengthy cask aging, the island’s warmth and humidity affects the wines, and canteiro rooms are often designed to naturally intensify heat, through large windows or specially designed roofs. The canteiro rooms usually get into the high 80s and low 90s during the summertime, with humidity levels around 70-90%. Evaporation accounts for a loss of around 5% each year; as the wines age sugar, alcohol, and acidity are concentrated.

Blending processes for the 5, 10, 15, and 20 year old wines are similar to those outlined above. These age designations are averages rather than minimums, and some older and younger wines may be incorporated into each.

If they carry a variety on the label, it is still likely that a little Tinta Negra is present, as regulations permit up to 15% of other grapes in the wine—a concession not afforded to vintage-dated varietal wines.

Regardless of the harvest outlook, a wine only reveals its potential for Frasqueira or Colheita quality after a lengthy period of aging.

Unlike Port, Colheita (vintage-dated) wines may be released after only five years in cask, but few producers choose to produce this style with less than seven years of aging.

True vintage Madeira, the Frasqueira, requires a minimum of twenty years in canteiro, but it may remain in cask for a century or more prior to bottling. Some producers choose to transfer certain old stocks to glass in order to halt the aging (and evaporation) process.

As wines age slowly in cask, fruit gives way to oxidative flavors. Sotolon, a lactone produced through oxidation processes, is a powerfully aromatic compound responsible for some of the aromas of Sherry, Vin Jaune, and mature Madeira. The aroma of sotolon can be likened to curry (fenugreek) or maple syrup. Color darkens as sugars caramelize and the wines oxidize. Volatility is common.

Question 2

Champagne

Answer 2

NV = 15 months aging on lees
Vintage = 36 months aging on lees

Other facts:

• only 80% of a year’s wine may be sold as Vintage
• 100% of a vintage wine must come from that vintage (excepting what is in tirage and liqueur d’expedition)

Question 3

Prosecco, Sekt, + other

Answer 3

Prosecco:
Charmat method
Serious ones are Spumante, min 3.5 bars pressure

Sekt: Can be any method, from any grape. Best are traditional method Riesling. Not very regulated.

Clairette de Die:
Methode Ancestrale (pet nat) from Muscat

Moscato d’Asti:
weird fusion of techniques between Charmat and Methode Ancestrale. Only one fermentation, in tank, arrested and pressurized when 4.5-6.5% ABV reached, which leaves RS.

Lambrusco:
Can be frizzante or spumante
Frizzante = 1 - 2.5 bars pressure
Spumante = min. 3 bars pressure

Brachetto:
Traditional or Charmat method. Brachetto grape.

Question 4

Non-Champagne traditional method sparkling wines

Answer 4

Vouvray = Chenin, cannot be released until 12m after tirage

Cremant = Various

Cava:

 - Blanca = Parellada, Macabeo, Xarel-lo with Chardonnay and Subirat Parent (Malvasia)
 - Tinta = Pinot Noir, Monastrell, Garnacha Tinta, Trepat (only for rose)
 - aging: Cava = 9m on lees; Reserva = 30m on lees; de Paraje = 36m on lees

Question 5

Sherry

Answer 5

All the kinds of sherry

Question 6

Port

Answer 6

Port

Question 7

VDNs

Answer 7

All the VDNs

Rutherglen Muscat

Question 8

Dried berry wine

Answer 8

Dried Berry Wine

Question 9

Botrytis wines

Answer 9

botrytis wines.