Colour Theory 2

Question 1

The darkening rule only applies to what type of hair?

Answer 1

The darkening rule is only for natural hair only

Question 2

What levels of hair does the darkening apply to?

Answer 2

Darkening rule only applies when you are on the same as natural base or when going darker.

Question 3

What is the darkening rule for 1-2 levels darker

Answer 3

1/4 tube of base or golden base + 3/4 of shade required

Question 4

What is the darkening rule for when going 3 or more levels darker?

Answer 4

1/2 tube of base or golden base + 1/2 of the shade required

Question 5

What situations would you use a high lift tint?

Answer 5

High lift tints lift the hair without using pre-lightener but they are generally quite warm in colour so perhaps avoid when going for ashy tones

Question 6

How do you apply a high lift tint?

Answer 6

Apply to dry hair only

Mix 1 tube (50mls) with 100 mls of 30 Vol or 40 Vol

Ratio 1:2

Develop for 50 minutes, then rinse shampoo and condition

Question 7

How much oxidant do you mix with pre-lightener

Answer 7

It seems to depend on the situation, where in most long hair highlights you would mix for 1:2 but on short hair where you need the mix to not be runny you might use 1:1.5. (But ask teacher this)

Question 8

What are the three different lengths and ends techniques and when do you use them

Answer 8

TT5/Emulsify - No loss of colour, just add shine

TT15 Same depth but replacing loss of tone

TTI Replacing depth and tone

Question 9

When do you do Colour matching vs TTI?

Answer 9

When the client is going 2-3 levels darker on coloured hair we use colour matching.

The hair must be in good condition.

Question 10

What does colour matching achieve?

Answer 10

It adds extra warmth to the lengths and ends mixture to support the hair going darker.

Question 11

How do you colour match the hair?

Answer 11

Apply the chosen colour to the roots then remix the colour for the lengths and ends (adding warm water) and add a neat 3-6 cm of the relevant colour match shade (see chart in booklet)

Develop for the full 35 minutes.

Question 12

When fo you precolour as opposed to colour match or a regular TTI?

Answer 12

Precolouring is used for a) going 3 levels darker with coloured hair b) going 1-2 levels darker on very sensitised hair

Question 13

How does precolouring work?

Answer 13

Precolouring works by colouring the lighter lengths and ends with a chosen shade in order to replace the missing undercoat from the hair, BEFORE applying the actual shade required to the hair.

Question 14

Put these colours in the order of their intensity

9. 33
10. 30
11. 03
12. 3

Answer 14

Soft 
9.03
9.3
9.33
9.30 
intense

Question 15

What are the cool versus the warm colours on the precolouring chart?

Answer 15

Cool = Ash, Beige, Gold

Warm = Copper, Mahogany, Red

(Intense is same as warm but have different undercoat)

Question 16

how do you prelighten the hair

Answer 16

Apply the relevant precolour shade mix (dialight) with 6 or 9 vol to the lighter lengths and ends and isolate each section in meche

Develop for 5-20 minutes, until you have reached the desired undercoat that you are replacing into the hair

Rinse, shampoo and dry the hair 100% . Don’t condition it.

Apply chosen shade to the root. TTI and develop for full development time

Question 17

What percentage white hair does riches she cover?

Answer 17

70%

Question 18

When do you cleanse those hair with effasor?

Answer 18

When removing tone, buildup

When doing dark to light

Question 19

When do you gentle cleanse and when do you deep cleanse?

Answer 19

Gentle cleanse when you are removing tone/buildup

Deep cleanse you want to lift the hair up to 3 levels

(Gentle can also lift 1. Always start with gentle)

Question 20

How do you do gentle cleansing.

Answer 20

1pack effasor and 60 mls warm water heated with w ban Marie.

Massage and develop for up to 20 minutes.

Question 21

How do you deep cleanse

Answer 21

1 pack effasor + 75ml 20-30 vol

Up to 50mins or until undercoat has been achieved.

Rinse. Dry 100%. Roots. TTI

Question 22

How do you TT15

Answer 22

Roots. Develop 20 minutes

50ml Target shade + 75 ml 20 vol + 10-15 ml warm water

Develop for 15minutes

Question 23

When do you apply to roots when doing a midband for a tint?

Answer 23

You apply the root immediately when doing a tint.

Question 24

When do you apply the root when doing a misband for a high lift

Answer 24

You apply the root to a high lift tint 15 minutes after doing the midband

Question 25

When do you apply the root when you are doing the midband for a prelightener

Answer 25

You apply the root when you have achieved half of the desired undercoat

Question 26

What are the 4 effects of lightening products on the hair structure?

Answer 26

1. slightly swells hair shaft and opens cuticles
2. product penetrates the cortex where the pigment is.
3. Cuticle is colourless so lightener does not affect it apart from making it more porous
4. Eumelanin and pheomelanin granules are oxidised to form colourless oxymelanin

Question 27

What are the 3 different types of bleach?

Answer 27

1. Oil bleach
2. Cream bleach/emulsion bleach (gel bleach)
3. Powder bleach

Question 28

What are the characteristics of oil bleach?

Answer 28

the least damaging lightener.
Lifsts 3-4 levels
Can be mixed with 20-30 Vol

Question 29

What are the characteristics of cream bleach/emulsion bleach?

Answer 29

stronger lighteners than oil
Sometimes a special booster, activator may be added to increase the lift.
Lifts 5-6 shades

Question 30

What are the characteristics of powder bleach?

Answer 30

Can lift 6-8 shades.
Mostly used for highlighting hair
Can dry out if heat is applied

Question 31

Why is it important to monitor the development of the lightening products?

Answer 31

1. Ensure even development
2. Ensure hair is not over processed or under processed
3. Prevent hair damage
4. Ensure the desired result is achieved
5. Maintain client comfort