Colour Theory 2 Flashcards
The darkening rule only applies to what type of hair?
The darkening rule is only for natural hair only
What levels of hair does the darkening apply to?
Darkening rule only applies when you are on the same as natural base or when going darker.
What is the darkening rule for 1-2 levels darker
1/4 tube of base or golden base + 3/4 of shade required
What is the darkening rule for when going 3 or more levels darker?
1/2 tube of base or golden base + 1/2 of the shade required
What situations would you use a high lift tint?
High lift tints lift the hair without using pre-lightener but they are generally quite warm in colour so perhaps avoid when going for ashy tones
How do you apply a high lift tint?
Apply to dry hair only
Mix 1 tube (50mls) with 100 mls of 30 Vol or 40 Vol
Ratio 1:2
Develop for 50 minutes, then rinse shampoo and condition
How much oxidant do you mix with pre-lightener
It seems to depend on the situation, where in most long hair highlights you would mix for 1:2 but on short hair where you need the mix to not be runny you might use 1:1.5. (But ask teacher this)
What are the three different lengths and ends techniques and when do you use them
TT5/Emulsify - No loss of colour, just add shine
TT15 Same depth but replacing loss of tone
TTI Replacing depth and tone
When do you do Colour matching vs TTI?
When the client is going 2-3 levels darker on coloured hair we use colour matching.
The hair must be in good condition.
What does colour matching achieve?
It adds extra warmth to the lengths and ends mixture to support the hair going darker.
How do you colour match the hair?
Apply the chosen colour to the roots then remix the colour for the lengths and ends (adding warm water) and add a neat 3-6 cm of the relevant colour match shade (see chart in booklet)
Develop for the full 35 minutes.
When fo you precolour as opposed to colour match or a regular TTI?
Precolouring is used for a) going 3 levels darker with coloured hair b) going 1-2 levels darker on very sensitised hair
How does precolouring work?
Precolouring works by colouring the lighter lengths and ends with a chosen shade in order to replace the missing undercoat from the hair, BEFORE applying the actual shade required to the hair.
Put these colours in the order of their intensity
- 33
- 30
- 03
- 3
Soft 9.03 9.3 9.33 9.30 intense
What are the cool versus the warm colours on the precolouring chart?
Cool = Ash, Beige, Gold
Warm = Copper, Mahogany, Red
(Intense is same as warm but have different undercoat)
how do you prelighten the hair
Apply the relevant precolour shade mix (dialight) with 6 or 9 vol to the lighter lengths and ends and isolate each section in meche
Develop for 5-20 minutes, until you have reached the desired undercoat that you are replacing into the hair
Rinse, shampoo and dry the hair 100% . Don’t condition it.
Apply chosen shade to the root. TTI and develop for full development time
What percentage white hair does riches she cover?
70%
When do you cleanse those hair with effasor?
When removing tone, buildup
When doing dark to light
When do you gentle cleanse and when do you deep cleanse?
Gentle cleanse when you are removing tone/buildup
Deep cleanse you want to lift the hair up to 3 levels
(Gentle can also lift 1. Always start with gentle)
How do you do gentle cleansing.
1pack effasor and 60 mls warm water heated with w ban Marie.
Massage and develop for up to 20 minutes.
How do you deep cleanse
1 pack effasor + 75ml 20-30 vol
Up to 50mins or until undercoat has been achieved.
Rinse. Dry 100%. Roots. TTI
How do you TT15
Roots. Develop 20 minutes
50ml Target shade + 75 ml 20 vol + 10-15 ml warm water
Develop for 15minutes
When do you apply to roots when doing a midband for a tint?
You apply the root immediately when doing a tint.
When do you apply the root when doing a misband for a high lift
You apply the root to a high lift tint 15 minutes after doing the midband
When do you apply the root when you are doing the midband for a prelightener
You apply the root when you have achieved half of the desired undercoat
What are the 4 effects of lightening products on the hair structure?
- slightly swells hair shaft and opens cuticles
- product penetrates the cortex where the pigment is.
- Cuticle is colourless so lightener does not affect it apart from making it more porous
- Eumelanin and pheomelanin granules are oxidised to form colourless oxymelanin
What are the 3 different types of bleach?
- Oil bleach
- Cream bleach/emulsion bleach (gel bleach)
- Powder bleach
What are the characteristics of oil bleach?
the least damaging lightener.
Lifsts 3-4 levels
Can be mixed with 20-30 Vol
What are the characteristics of cream bleach/emulsion bleach?
stronger lighteners than oil
Sometimes a special booster, activator may be added to increase the lift.
Lifts 5-6 shades
What are the characteristics of powder bleach?
Can lift 6-8 shades.
Mostly used for highlighting hair
Can dry out if heat is applied
Why is it important to monitor the development of the lightening products?
- Ensure even development
- Ensure hair is not over processed or under processed
- Prevent hair damage
- Ensure the desired result is achieved
- Maintain client comfort
