303 2021 Flashcards
How can hair length affect the service?
Longer hair will require more product and work in a sequence or steps.
Hair may be too short to carry out the service (weaving/slicing)
It determines which service can be carried out.
Why is it important to record tests results (5)
C S C P F
To make sure the correct service is agreed
To make sure suitable products, techniques and tools are used
To make sure the correct peroxide strength is used
To provide documented evidence in case of legal action
For future reference
How can percentage of white hair affect the service?
High percentage of white hair will require the addition of base colors to ensure even coverage and the use of 20vol.
It may also be resistant to coloring products and may require pre softening.
Development times may increase
Use base colors when mixing. Pre soften hair when required.
What are the 6 consequences of not determining the nature of the colour correction problem effectively?
R U U U D D
Risk of legal action Unhappy client Uneven results Undesired result achieved Damage to hair Damage to scalp
Name 4 reasons why it is important to record the clients agreement to a colour correction
D
F
M
S
For documented evidence in case of legal action
For future reference
To meet clients expectations
So the client understand the process and possible outcome
What are the 4 consequences of not carrying out a skin sensitivity test following MFIs
A
F
D
D
Allergic reaction
Failure to meet H&S requirements and legislation which could result in legal action
Damage to client’s hair and or scalp
Damage to reputation of the salon
How can scalp sensitivity affect the service
Apply product off scalp, use barrier cream for protection. Do not apply heat. Monitor the scalp for increased sensitivity and remove immediately. If the client is in any discomfort seek medical instruction.
What are the 5 consequences of not reviewing and updating the clients records?
Rd Ru Ru Rc Ri
Risk of damage to the scalp Risk of uneven result Risk of undesired result Risk of client being unsatisfied = complaint Risk of imcompatible product reacting
How can strength if hydrogen peroxide affect the service?
Hydrogen peroxide strength will be determined if the lift of depth is required or deposit of tone, if coloring white or sensitized hair.
Low volume strength/ percentage for when yiu are depositing tone and darkening the hair.
Higher volume/percentage when lifting colour and lightening the hair.
How can the room temperature affect the service
Temperature can slow down or accelerate the process
In hit temperatures colour should be applied quickly and evenly, starting with the most resistant areas and development monitored continually. In cold temperatures additional heat may be used to accelerate the development process.
What might count as a contraindication that stops the service from being carried out?
h o s i m a e
history of previous allergic reaction to colour products other known allergies skin disorders incompatible products medical advice or instructions age restrictions evident hair damage
How does existing colour of hair affect the service?
The depth of the existing colour will affect the colour produ t choice and may require pre lightening if the depth is too dark
Desired results might not be achievable
Avoid overlapping existing colour
To neutralize unwanted tone, use the opposite colour on the colour star/wheel
Prelighten hair is degree of lift cannot be achieved.
What can be done when test result show that skin is incompatible?
Use different manufacturers to skin test
Use gentler products and lower peroxide strength
Reassess target shade being realistic.
What are the 4 reasons why test results can influence the service:
P
C
C
C
It could prevent the colour service from being carried out
Could affect the choice of products
Could affect the choice of peroxide strength
Could affect the application method and or the development time
What does PH stand for?
PH stands for potential for hydrogen
What numbers on the PH scale are used to represent acid, neutral and alkaline chemicals?
towards 1 - increasingly acidic
7 - neutral
towards 14 - increasingly alkaline
What Ph is hair?
4.5 - 5.5 so very slightly acidic
What are the Ph Values of these various hair products?
semi permanent colour lightening products temporary colour quasi permanent colour stabilised hydrogen peroxide
stabilised hydrogen peroxide 4 temporary colour 4-5 semi permanent colour 6.8 quasi permanent colour 7.5 - 9.5 lightening products 8-9.5
name the different types of melanin in the hair
Eumelanin (granular, bigger, dark brown, determines depth)
Pheomelanin (smaller, diffused, through cortex, pale yellow, reddish or ash in colour, determines tone and makes yellow and red hair)
How can Eumelanin and Pheomalanin affect the hair and the service carried out?
The proportion of EUmelanin and Pheomelanin in the hair determines
how much lift can be expected,
which products should be used
the strength of the peroxide
How do temporary colours work on the hair?
Temporary colour molecules coat the cuticle and are removed when shampooed
has a PH of 4-5
How do semi-permanent colour work on the hair?
what is its PH?
A mixture of colour molecules enter the cortex and lie on the outer edge of the cortex, these are gradually removed by shampooing.
has a PH value of 6.8
How do quasi permanent colours work on the hair?
what is its PH?
Ammonia opens the cuticle for colour to enter. Different sized molecules enter the cortex and are oxidised by the oxygen from the hydrogen peroxide. Smaller molecules are gradually lost each time the hair is shampooed.
has a PH value of 7.5-9.5
What effect does temperature have on the application of the product?
On virgin hair to ensue an even result, the colour should be applied to the middle lengths first then the ends and finally the roots. On virgin hair, if the correct application process is not followed, heat from the scalp would cause the colour to look brighter or lighter at the roots.
How does temperature affect the Development of colouring and lightening process?
Heat will radiate from the scalp and will make the colour or lightening product develop more quickly and this will affect the method of application
A very warm salon will make the colour or lightening product develop more quickly. A cold salon will slow down the development of the colour
Added heat will make the colour or lightening product develop more quickly
Why would you pre soften the hair?
To lift the cuticle when the hair is resistant to colour
Allow the colour to penetrate more efficiently
What is the method of pre softening the hair?
Low volume hydrogen peroxide is applied in neat sections to dry hair. The hair is then dried with the hydrogen peroxide on the hair. Now the chosen colour can be applied
What is the method for pre pigmenting
Apply warm shade of pigment from any type of hair colour at
Depending on the product used for pre pigmentation, it will determine if the product needs to be removed prior to the application of the target colour.
What are the safety considerations that have to be taken into account when colouring hair
C P I C A P S D D
Client is gowned and protected
PPE is used
Identify contraindications
Carry out necessary tests
Analysis of hair condition
Previous chemicals on the hair
Supervise thorough removal of colouring product
Do not use lighteners, colour removers, permanent colour
Do not provide service for minors under 16 years
What is the acronym that list the responsibilities that people have with chemicals under COSHH
SHUD
STORE
HANDLE
USE
DISPOSE
Why is it important to check electrical equipment prior to use?
To prevent harm to self and others and to prevent the risk of electrical shock
What is the workers responsibility with PPE?
To examine it before use
Wear it in accordance to instructions
Clean and store after use as required by the salon
What is the employers responsibility with PPE?
To supply PPE to all employers for free, and replenish it
Train all staff how to use it correctly
Identify risks involved when workers use PPE
What are the dangers associated with inhalation of powder lighteners
Damage to muck tissues of mouth and nose
Respiratory tract damage
Damage to the lungs
State 5 methods of using lighteners correctly
- Gloves
- Work in well ventilated area
3 check the condition of the hair
4 see if treatment is achievable
5 test the hair and the skin
Explain why it is important to question clients and to establish any contra indications to the colouring of lightening service
1 know service can be carried out
2 makes salon look bad
3 makes sure clients are satisfied
State 2 reasons why it is important to record client responses to questioning
1 evidence in case of legal action
2 you might forget. For future reference
State the legal significance of questioning the client and recording their responses
If a client takes legal action you need evidence.
WHY, WHEN and HOW do we conduct the elasticity test
Why - to determine the condition of the cortex as well as the strength of the hair
When - this is Carrie out on wet hair prior to the service
How - take a strand of hair and stretch using finger and thumb
WHY, WHEN and HOW do we conduct the porosity test
Why - to determine the absorbability of the cuticle as well as the condition of the cortex
When - This test is carried out prior to the service
How - Take a strand of hair and slide fingers from tip to root
WHY, WHEN and HOW do we conduct the incompatibility test
Why - this is to determine the presence of metallic salts
When - Prior to the chemical service
How - Take a strand of hair, place in a bowl. Apply 20mls of 20mls of 20 Vol (6%) and 1 drop of Ammonium hydroxide (perm lotion)
WHY, WHEN and HOW do we conduct the skin test
Why - to determine allergy to products
When - 48 hours prior to the chemical service
How - Use PPE, measure, mix and apply following manufacturers instructions
What happens when an elasticity test goes well?
Hair goes back to normal - recommend treatment and haircut
What happens when an elasticity test goes bad?
It becomes wiry like chewing gum
For really bad elasticity, no service
Hat happens when a porosity test goes good or bad
Good - hair is smooth
Bad - hair has a bumpy texture. Use protein spray to even out porosity
What happens in a good and bad case for a incompatibility test?
Good - nothing
Bad - allergic reaction. No service
What happens when an elasticity test goes well?
Hair goes back to normal - recommend treatment and haircut
What is the cause and remedial action to take for scalp sensitivity?
Causes
Haven’t done skin test
Product too strong
Left on for too long
Remedy
Remove product with coolish water
What is the cause and remedial action to take for for product seepage
Cause Too much product Not folding foil properly Product swelling Too much heat
Remedy
Dotting (our natural colour back in )
What is the cause and remedial action to take for skin staining
Cause
Messy application
No barrier cream
Over developed
Remedy
Stain remover
What is the cause and remedial action to take for deterioration of hair condition
Cause Over processed Didn’t do test Product too strong Over heated
Remedy
Haircut
Treatment
What is the cause and remedial action to take for for over processing?
Cause
Gone over development time
Room too hot
Product too strong
Remedy
Haircut
Treatment
What is the cause and remedial action to take for for under processing?
Cause
Short development time
Room too cold
Product not strong enough
Remedy
Reapply
Stronger oxidant
