2021 Flashcards
How do you find the natural depth of the hair
avoid the natural parting
Take Profile parting from centre forehead to the centre nape,
Hold the hair flat to the head cover any old colour with palms of hands to see true natural depth
Them look to see if hair is black brown or blonde
Name the undertone for the following hair colours
black (1)
Brown (4)
Dark Blonde (6)
light blonde (8)
Lightest Blonde (10)
Name the 9 hair tones
0 Natural 1 Blue Ash 2 Mauve 3 Gold 4 Copper 5 Mahogany 6 Red 7 Metallic 8 Mocha
— Chromative —
How long does semi permanent Chromative colour last?
What percentage white hair does it blend?
Can chromative lighten the hair?
Lasts up to 10 shampoos
It blends 30 percent white hair
It does not lighten the hair
What are the stages of applying Semi Permanent colour?
7 Stages
- Consultation
- Shampoo the hair with non barrier forming shampoo
- Towel Dry the hair
- Profile and radial parting
- No mixing, pour into a bowl, and with a brush apply as tint
(If white hair is present then apply first to the location of white hair) - Apply colour with tinting method of application.
- Develop
— Dialight —
- Does Dialight provide coverage of white hair?
- What is Dialight mainly used for?
- How many levels of lift can it do?
- Can it darken or change the hair tone?
- Does it contain Ammonia?
- Is it an acid or alkaline product?
- no coverage of white hair
- Mostly used as a tonor
- No levels of lift
- Can only darken and change tone
- Ammonia free colour
- Acid based for balancing the hairs PH.
— Diarichesse —
- What percentage of white hair does it cover?
- Can it br used on coloured hair?
- what level of lift can it provide?
- Can it lighten, darken and change the tone of the hair?
- Does it contain Ammonia?
- Is it acid or Alkaline?
- it can cover 70 percent of white hair when mixed with half natural base + half shade required + 15 vol)
- can be used on natural and coloured hair
- It can provide natural and coloured hair
- It gives 1.5 levels of lift.
- Can lighten, darken and change tone
- Its ammonia free
- Alkaline based for intense natural finish.
How do you mix and develop Dia Richesse or Dia light colour?
MIX 50 mls or Dia Richesse or Dia light colour
+
75 mls of 6, 9, 15 vol Dia activateur (dialight 6 or 9 vol)
– DEVELOPMENT TIME –
Global Application: 20 minutes
Toning 5-10 minutes.
Dia Activator
1) When do you use 6 Vol activateur?
2) When do you use 9 Vol actibvateur?
3) When do you use 15 Vol Activateur?
1) With Both. For porous and sensitised hair. More deposit for going darker with richesse.
2) With Both. For normal and slightly porous hair. To cover 30 percent white hair with Richesse only
3) Only with Dia Richesse. To lift 1.5 levels. TO blend 70 percent white hair. For intense vibrant shades (coppers and reds)
— Majirel —
How do you mix and apply Majirel to hair?
Apply to dry hair only
Mix 50 mls majirel
+
75 mls 20/30 vol
Ratio 1:1.5
DEVELOPMENT
35 minutes. Emulsify. Shampoo. Condition.
— Oxidant —
When do you use 6% or 20 Vol?
When do you use 9% or 30 Vol?
When do you use 12% or 40 Vol?
- You use 6% or 20 Vol when you what
a) 2 levels of lightening,
b) Darkening the hair or staying the same depth
c) Changing the tone or just covering white hair
d) to use with majirel/majirouge/prelightener
- You use 6% or 20 Vol when you what
- You use 9% or 30 Vol when you want
a) 3 levels of lift
b) use with majirel, majirous and high lift/prelightener
- You use 9% or 30 Vol when you want
- You use 12% or 40 Vol when you want
a) 4-5 levels of lift
b) to be used with high lift only
- You use 12% or 40 Vol when you want
What is the the rule with Majirel for covering 100% of white hair?
50ml of Target Shade
+ 75 mls 20 Vol = 100% coverage
HOWEVER if client has more than 50 percent white hair then
For cool shade:
25ml TS + 25 ml corresponding base
+75ml 20 Vol
For Warm Target:
25ml TS + 25ml Corresponding golden base
+75ml 20 Vol
What is the Darkening rule with Majirel?
When doing darker we use 20 Vol. However 20 Vol will always lift the undercoat 2 levels lighter. Therefore we must add the corresponding base in order to bring the undercoat back to the correct depth that we want to achieve.
What do you mix if you want to g 1-2 levels darker (on natural hair)?
1/4 tube of base or golden base +
3/4 of shade required.
What do you mix if you want to go 3 or more levels darker (on natural hair)?
1/2 tube of base or golden base
+ 1/2 of shade required
How do you mix and apply high lift tint?
Apply to Dry hair only
50 mls High Lift + 100 mls 30 Vol OR 40 Vol.
Ratio 1:2
Develop for 50 mins
Rinse, Shampoo, Condition
How do pre-lightening agents work?
Lightening products when mixed with hydrogen peroxide open up the cuticles and penetrate into the cortex, eumelanin and pheomelanin granules are oxidised to form colourless oxymelanin. We visually see this as the undercoat lightening.
How do we mix and use Multi Techniques pre-lightener.
How much lift does it provide?
1 Scoop (20g) Multi Techniques + 30G 20,30 Vol
Develop up to 50 minutes
Provides up to 8 levels of lift.
How does TT5 / Emulsify work?
1) Apply chosen majirel Shade + relevant oxidant to the root
2) Develop roots for 30 minutes (35 if white hair is present)
3) TAke client to the backwash
4) Apply 10-15 ml of warm water to the lengths of the hair
5) Emulsify the colour through lengths and ends
6) Develop for 5 minutes
How does TT15 work?
1) Apply chosen majirel shade + relevant oxidant to the root
2) Develop root for 20 minutes
3) MIx the chosen Majirel shade + 75 mls 20 vol + 10-15ml of warm water.
4) Apply mixture to the lengths and ends of the hair
5) Develop for 15 minutes
How does TTI work?
1) Apply chosen Majirel shade + relevant oxidant to the root
2) Immediately remix chosen Majirel shade +75mls of 20 Vol + 10-15ml of warm water
3) Apply product to the lengths and ends
4) Develop for 35 MInutes.
When do we use Colour matching vs TTI?
A basic TTi is used when the client is going 1 level darker on the ends. If the client is going 2-3 levels darker and the hair is in good condition we must use a technique called colour matching. This means that we add extra warmth into the lengths and ends mixture to support the hair going darker.
How do you do Colour Matching?
1) Apply the Chosen Colour to the roots
2) Remix teh colour for the lengths and ends (Adding warm water and add 3-6cm of the relevant colour match shade. Develop for the full 35 minutes.
When do you use Pre colouring?
Pre colouring is a technique that is used whne going 3 levels darker on any hair, or going 1 or 2 levels darker on very sensitised hair
It is about colouring the lighter lengths and ends with a chosen shade in order to replace the missing undercoat form the hair.
How do you do pre colouring?
1) Apply the relevant pre colour shade of dialight mixed with 6 or 9 vol to the lighter lengths and ends and isolate each section in meche. (Check table)
2) Develop for 5-20 minutes, until you have reached the desired undercoat that you are replacing into the hair.
3) Rinse, Shampoo and dry the hair 100%. DO not condition.
4) Apply chosen shade to the root.
5) TTI, develop for full development time
What needs to be done if hair that is already dyed needs to go lighter?
Tint does not lift tint so you need to have the artificial colour removed before the chosen colour can be applied.
To do this we use a technique called cleansing and a product called Effasor.
How do you do a Gentle cleanse?
1) Mix 1 pack of effasor + 60 mls of hot water and place in ban marie.
2) Apply to affected areas.
3) Massage into the hair (Ensuring the product stays warm as it is activated by heat)
Develop for up to 20 minutes (or until the tone has been removed)
Rinse Shampoo, dry. Apply chosen shade to the hair.
