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GCSE - Geography (Dave) > Coasts > Flashcards

Coasts Flashcards

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1
Q

What is a coastline?

A

Where the land meets the sea

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2
Q

What is the size of a wave determined by?

A
  • Strength of the wind
  • Length of the fetch
  • How long the wind blows for
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3
Q

What causes waves to form?

A

Friction between the wind and sea causes the orbit to become elliptical rather than circular

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4
Q

Name the properties of a destructive wave

A
  • High wave height
  • Short wave length
  • Powerful backswash, weak swash
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5
Q

Name the properties of a constructive wave

A
  • Low wave height
  • Long wave length
  • Weak backswash, powerful swash
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6
Q

What are tides caused by?

A

Gravitational pull of the moon and sun

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7
Q

Define the tidal range (intertidal zone)

A

The difference between high and low tide

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8
Q

When do Spring tides occur?

A

When the moon and sun are aligned

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9
Q

What do Spring tides cause?

A

Very high and very low tides

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10
Q

When do neap tides occur?

A

When the moon and sun are at right angles to each other

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11
Q

What do neap rides cause?

A

Lower high and higher low tides

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12
Q

Define weathering

A

The break up of rock in situ

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13
Q

Define abrasion using the coastline terminology

A

Rocks being thrown into cliffs and break the cliff a little at a time

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14
Q

Define solution using the coastline terminology

A

The slightly acidic sea water dissolving the cliff

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15
Q

Define hydraulic action using the coastline terminology

A

He sea water forces air into cracks in the cliff which causes them to get larger

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16
Q

Define attrition using the coastline terminology

A

Rocks being thrown up into each other by the waves, breaking them apart

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17
Q

Name two types of physical weathering

A
  • Freeze thaw

- Exfoliation

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18
Q

Name 2 types of chemical weathering

A
  • Carbonation

- Oxidation

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19
Q

How does temperature have an affect on chemical weathering?

A

Hot temperatures increase the rate of weathering

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20
Q

How does geology change the rate of weathering?

A
  • Rocks with already existing cracks will weather more easily
  • Hard rock will weather slower than a soft rock

-Limestone weathers faster from carbonation due to its high CaCO3 levels

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21
Q

How do humans affect the rate of weathering?

A
  • Chemicals added by us increase CW
  • Introducing animals increases CW
  • Insulating rocks reduces temperature,variation decreasing PW
  • Deforestation reduces BW
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22
Q

What is the aspect of land?

A

It’s orientation in relation to the sun

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23
Q

How does the aspect of a piece of land affect its rate of weathering?

A

IF slopes are facing the sun:
-increased vegetation, increased BW

IF NOT facing the sun:
-Increased CW AND PW

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24
Q

How does the relief of land affect the rate of weathering?

A

Steep slopes cause:

  • Increased PW due to increased surface runoff
  • Reduced chemical weathering, lack of stationary water

Flat surfaces cause
-Increased rate of CW

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25
Q

How does vegetation affect the rate of weathering?

A
  • vegetated areas have a higher rate of BW

- Some mosses contain acids that can cause CW

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26
Q

What is the rate of coastal erosion determined by?

A
  • Wave size
  • Type/profile of beach
  • Supply of beach material by LSD
  • Vegetation cover
  • Local hydrology
  • Rate of removal of debris from cliffs
  • Cliff material
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27
Q

How does the wave size affect the rate of coastal erosion?

A

The longer the fetch of the wave the greater the erosive energy of the wave

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28
Q

How does the profile size affect the rate of coastal erosion?

A

Beaches dissipate energy

The higher the beach the lower the energy in the wave

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29
Q

How does the supply of beach material from LSD affect the rate of coastal erosion?

A

A consistent supply of beach material slows down erosion

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30
Q

How does vegetation affect the rate of coastal erosion?

A

Cliffs with vegetation cover tend to be more resistant to recession as roots help Bing and reinforce cliff material

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31
Q

How does the local hydrology affect the rate of coastal erosion?

A

A large amount of surface run off and infiltration can increase the rate of cliff recession

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32
Q

How does the rate at which debris is remove from the foot of cliffs affect the rate of coastal erosion?

A

If material formed at the foot of the cliff is rapidly transported away, the cliffs are exposed to erosion

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33
Q

How does the cliff material affect the rate of coastal erosion?

A

Soft Boulder clay cliffs recede faster than cliffs formed of hard rock such as chalk

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34
Q

Define a wave cut notch

A

A hole at the bottom of a cliff created by erosion

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35
Q

Define a wave cut platform

A

A rock platform which is left behind as the cliff retreates

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36
Q

Define cliff recession

A

The cliff starts to recede due to the erosion and weathering, causing cliffs to collapse

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37
Q

Explain rock pools at a cliff

A

This is where rocks have fallen to create holes in the wave cut platform

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38
Q

Define a headland

A

An area of hard rock which is eroded less than the soft areas, creating an outcrop of the hard rock

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39
Q

Define a Bay

A

An area of soft rock which is eroded more than the more resistant areas, resulting in an indent in the coastline

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40
Q

Describe a concordant coastline

A

Bands of soft and hard rock which run parallel to the coastline

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41
Q

Describe a discordant coastline

A

Bands of soft and hard rock which run at

right angle to the coastline

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42
Q

Describe the formation of a bay on a discordant coastline using rock examples

A
  • Less resistant clay is eroded and weathered quickly
  • Sub aerial and marine processes causes a quick rate of recession
  • In a discordant coastline it will be flanked by headlands
  • An indent is made, which is then shielded by headlands
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43
Q

What happens at a concordant headline in relation to bays and headlands?

A

Less headlands and bays form

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44
Q

Describe the formation of a headland on a discordant coastline using rock examples

A
  • The more resistant limestone is eroded and weathered slowly, due to the lesser amount of weaknesses in the rock
  • Eventually the headland juts out as the softer rocks besides it retreats at a much faster rate
  • The headland then is more susceptible to erosion, as waves are concentrated there , protecting the bays
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45
Q

What is the order of features which are created at a headland?

A
  • Lines of weakness
  • Cave
  • Arch
  • Stack
  • Stump
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46
Q

What creates wave refraction?

A

When waves reach the shallow water they bend as the wave has increased friction with the sand

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47
Q

What does wave refraction cause?

A

More erosion at the headland

Less erosion at bays

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48
Q

Define long shore drift (LSD)

A

This is the process of waves moving material along a coastline

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49
Q

Define swash

A

The waves breaking and travelling up the beach carrying load. The swash travels in the direction of the prevailing wind

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50
Q

Define backswash

A

The waves returning to the sea with load. Waves will take the shortest route back to the sea (gravity)

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51
Q

Define prevailing wind

A

The direction that wind normally hits a coastline

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52
Q

Define groynes

A

Wooden or concrete fences placed out into the sea to stop LSD occurring

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53
Q

Define sea currents

A

The movement of water caused by differences in temperature, changes in wind or tides.
Currents can be very strong and can carry large amounts of material

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54
Q

Define saltation in the context of the coast

A

Wind transports sand and small stones across a beach. The process is the bouncing sand and material.

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55
Q

Explain long shore drift

A
  • Occurs when the direction of the prevailing wind causes the swash to transport material at an angle
  • The backswash takes the material at right angle to the coast
  • The sediment is moved down the coast in the direction of the prevailing wind
  • This will continue until there is a change in the coastline or groynes are found
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56
Q

Define a spit

A

A long thin stretch of sand connected to mainline

57
Q

Define a bar

A

A spit that connects two headlands or runs across a bay

58
Q

Define a tombolo

A

A spit that joins the mainland to an island

59
Q

Define a lagoon

A

A salt water lake that develops behind a bar or spit

60
Q

Define an island

A

A small body of land found in oceans and seas

61
Q

Explain spit formation

A
  • LSD takes the sediment down the coast until a change in the shape of the coastline and drop in of wave energy
  • Wave energy is changed by conflicting currents, deposition occurs
  • Deposition occurs at a faster rate than it can be eroded
  • A ridge of sediment is built up, which is the spit
  • Recurved laterals are result of temporary changes in wind and wave direction. This creates a hook shape to the spit
  • A salt marsh is created in the slow moving water on the landward side behind the spit
62
Q

How does a spit become permanent?

A

Sand dunes form on the spit and vegetation will stabilize it

63
Q

How can a bar form?

A
  • A spit develops across a bay
  • A sandbank would develop offshore, parallel to the shore, and is moved towards the coastline by the wave and wind joins the mainland
64
Q

Give an example of a bar

A

Slapton Sands

65
Q

Give an example of a tombolo

A

Chesil beach connects the mainland to the Isle of Portland

66
Q

Where are salt marshes usually found?

A

Areas of stagnant water, behind bars, spits and tombolos

67
Q

What are the three conditions required for salt marsh development?

A
  • Sheltered from strong tidal waters
  • Large amount of sediment
  • Low gradient and shallow
68
Q

Why does deposition exceed erosion at salt marshes?

A

As there is low energy at the salt marsh

69
Q

What does deposition eventually lead to the development of at salt marshes?

A

Mudbanks

70
Q

Define an halophyte

A

A plant that grows in waters of high salinity

71
Q

When mud banks are exposed at low tide what is able to grow on them?

A

Halophytic vegetation

72
Q

Give two examples of a halophyte

A

Cordgrass

Glasswort

73
Q

What is the rate at which a salt marsh can grow upwards each year?

A

0.001 cm to 10 cm

74
Q

What is the sward zone?

A

A flat piece of land that very rarely floods on a salt marsh

75
Q

What is the maximum amount of time in the sward zone can survive under sea water?

A

4 hours

76
Q

What are the three threats to salt marshes?

A

Pollution
Land Claims
Grazing

77
Q

Why does pollution threaten salt marshes?

A

Can lead to algae growth which causes problems

78
Q

Why do land claims threaten salt marshes?

A

People take salt marsh land for building or farming, completely destroying it

79
Q

Why does grazing threaten salt marshes?

A

Animals eat the plants, loss in biodiversity. Therefore less attractive for birds

80
Q

What is the backshore?

A

The area of the beach which is above the normal high tide level

81
Q

What is the foreshore?

A

The area of beach in between normal high and low tide

82
Q

What is the backshore?

A

The area of beach below the normal low tide

83
Q

What can a beach shape be changed by?

A

Every time the tide comes in and goes out

84
Q

What type of beach has a steeper gradient than a sandy beaches?

A

Shingle beaches

85
Q

Define a beach

A

Accumulation of sand between lowest and highest spring tides.

86
Q

What can a sand be made out of?

A

Sand, shingle, pebbles

87
Q

Define a strand line

A

Material that is deposited by the sea at the furthest point above the high tide

88
Q

Define a berm

A

A ridge that forms at the top of the beach. It is the highest section of beach and is basically sand collected on the strand line

89
Q

What is a sand dune?

A

Small ridges of collected sand which forms from sand collecting around an obstruction

90
Q

Why are sand dunes a dynamic system?

A

As the mobile sand on the top is always moving and being transported mainly by the wind

91
Q

What is the meaning of a xerophyte?

A

Plants which have adapted to a dry environment

92
Q

What is a pioneer plant?

A

First plants to colonize embryo dunes

93
Q

As the sand dunes get further away from the sea what happens to the acidity and organic matter content?

A

The acidity increases (pH decreases) and the organic matter increases as the dunes get further away from the sea

94
Q

What are the three mobile dunes?

A
  • Embryo dunes
  • Fore dune
  • Yellow dune
95
Q

What are the two fixed dunes?

A
  • Grey dune

- Mature dune

96
Q

What are the characteristics of the embryo dune?

A

Nearest to the sea

pH7 and 0.1% Organic Matter

97
Q

What are the characteristics of the fore dune and the yellow dune?

A

2nd and 3rd nearest to the sea

pH6.5 and 0.23% Organic Matter

98
Q

What are the characteristics of the grey dune?

A

2nd last dune

pH6-5 and 1.0% Organic Matter

99
Q

What are the characteristics of the dune slack?

A

Depression in the dune somtimes with water

pH4-5 and 8.5% Organic Matter

100
Q

What are the characteristics of the Mature dune?

A

Furthest away dune

pH4 and 12.1% Organic Matter

101
Q

Define coral

A

A limestone rock which is made up of timing marine organisms called coral polyps

102
Q

Define a polyp

A

An individual sedimentary type of animal from characterized by a more or less fixed base with a free end and mouth and tentecles

103
Q

Define a fringing reef

A

Coral platforms growing out into the sea, attached to the mainland. A shallow lagoon lies above them

104
Q

Define a barrier reef

A

Coral grows in a shallower area away form the mainland.

105
Q

Define an atoll

A

Start as fringing reefs which grow around the island. The rising sea level causes the coral to grow upwards to get more light, eventually forming a ring around an island.

106
Q

What happens to an island after an atoll forms?

A

The island slowly sinks as the sea levels continue to rise, and the atoll stays in place of the island

107
Q

What does coral require to grow?

A
  • Seawater temp. of 23-25C
  • Clear water
  • Not too deep water (less than 50m)
108
Q

How can unclear water prevent coral from growing?

A

Silt reduces light, inhibiting photosynthesis used by symbiotic algae
Silt may also clog the mouths of corals, prevents feeding

109
Q

How does deep water prevent coral from growing?

A

Light for photosynthesis would be reduced as it gets deeper

110
Q

Where do coral reefs occur ?

A

Within 30° of the equator - temperature
Just off the coast of a land mass - water depth
Not near to largely industrial countries - water clarity

111
Q

What are the four parts of a coral?

A

Tentacles
Gullet
Gut cavity
Mouth

112
Q

Why does a barrier reef form?

A

The island sinks into the crust, much further away form the shore

113
Q

What separates a fringing reef and a barrier reef?

A

A large lagoon separates them

114
Q

Describe a mangrove swamp

A

An area of salt-tolerant trees and bushes that grow in coastal areas of tropical and subtropical reigons

115
Q

List four examples of places where mangroves are found

A
  • East coast of Africa
  • Madagascar
  • Mexico
  • Indonesia
116
Q

How are the roots of mangroves adapted?

A
  • Cone roots rise vertically from the ground
  • Pores when the root is in the air can absorb oxygen (lenticel)
  • Long knobbly roots, further reach
117
Q

Why do mangroves grow near to the mouth of a river?

A

Shallow water-shorter and more stable for roots

Large amounts of sediment for roots to grow into

118
Q

How do mangroves protect the coastline?

A
  • Roots dissipate wave energy before the shoreline

- Trapped sediment increases land from river deposition

119
Q

What are the four conditions required for a mangrove forest to develop?

A

Warm water temperature
A river estuary
Soft, muddy substrate (sand material)
Low tide action

120
Q

Why do mangroves need a warm water temperature to develop?

A

Good for bacteria, they have adapted to warm temperatures

121
Q

Why do mangroves need a river estuary to develop?

A

Low strength waves to enable growth and limit erosion. Also large amount of sediment is needed

122
Q

Why do mangroves need a soft/muddy substrate to develop?

A

High bacteria concentration, great food for ecosystem and nutrients for plants. Mangroves need to take roots in it

123
Q

Why do mangroves need low tide action to develop?

A

Sediment can build up and mangroves will not be strongly eroded

124
Q

What are the three approaches to protecting the coast?

A
  • Hard engineering
  • Soft engineering
  • Managed retreat
125
Q

Give examples of hard engineering

A
  • Groynes
  • Sea wall
  • Rip rap
  • Gabions
  • Revetment
  • Off shore breakwater
126
Q

Explain managed retreat

A

Allowing part of the coastline to be eroded

127
Q

How does an estuary form?

A

A lowland area which was formally flooded in an ice age is flooded because of rising sea levels

128
Q

What are the stages which lead to erosion at the coastline? (Holderness Coast)

A
  • Soft boulder clay cliffs become saturated with rain water and loses its strength
  • The cliff is too steep and falls either as a block f material or a slurry slide
  • Cliff failure reduces the angles and prevents further erosion but..
  • Large waves from the NE remove the debris by LSD
129
Q

What is the crest of a wave?

A

The highest point of a wave

130
Q

What is the trough of a wave?

A

The lowest point in between two waves crests

131
Q

What is the wave length?

A

Length between two wave crests

132
Q

What is the wave frequency?

A

The number of waves passing a point every minute

133
Q

Define erosion

A

The wearing away of rock in situ

134
Q

What is biological weathering?

A

When a plant or tree’s roots grow into and enlarge the cracks in a rock

135
Q

How does vegetation cover affect the rate of coastal erosion?

A

Decreases erosion as roots bind and reinforce the cliff material

136
Q

What things are required for a cyclone to form?

A

At least 60m deep water
Greater than 27C water
Trade winds
Large expanse of water

137
Q

How are cyclones formed?

A
  • Warm air rises to create low pressure
  • Trade winds cause the storm to spin
  • Warm air drawn up and cold sucked down
  • This increases in speed to cause a cyclone
138
Q

What causes the trade winds to curve?

A

Coriolis effect

139
Q

What is the eye of the cyclone?

A

Center of the cyclone with calm winds surrounding a spinning vortex of high winds/rain

GCSE - Geography (Dave) (16 decks)

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