COASTS Flashcards

1
Q

What is the wave crest

A

The highest point of the wave

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2
Q

What is the wave trough

A

The lowest point of the wave

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3
Q

Features of a constructive wave?

A

Low frequency
Long wavelength
Strong swash
Weak backwash
Created in calm weather

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4
Q

Features of a destructive wave

A

Created from storms
Powerful
Strong backwash, weak swash
Created steeper beaches
Shingle beaches
High frequency

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5
Q

What 3 factors affect wave energy

A

Strength of the wind
Duration of the wind
Size of the fetch

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6
Q

What factors affect the rate of erosion

A

Waves
Beach size
Rock faults
Rock lithology

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7
Q

What are the processes of transportation

A

Traction
Saltation
Suspension
Solution

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8
Q

Examples of mechanical (physical) weathering

A

Freeze thaw
Salt crystallisation
Wetting and drying

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9
Q

Examples of chemical weathering

A

Carbonation
Oxidation
Solution

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10
Q

Biological weathering

A

Plant roots
Birds
Rock boring
Seaweed acids
Decaying vegetation

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11
Q

Examples of mass movement

A

Soil creep
Mudflows
Rockfall
Landslides
Runoff

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12
Q

How do spits occur

A

When the coast changes direction.
Longshore drift deposits the material
Sea changes in wind direction. Leads to a curved end of the spit.

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13
Q

How are barrier beaches created

A

When a beach or spit is extended across to a bay
Traps water from the lagoon
Separated from the mainland
Common in areas of low tidal range

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14
Q

How are tombolos created

A

Bar or beach that connects the mainland to an offshore island
Due too wave refraction

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15
Q

What is isostatic change

A

Occurs when land rises or falls close to the sea.
Localised change.

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16
Q

What is ecstatic change

A

Affects sea level across the whole planet.
Due to thermal expansion or changes in glacial processes.

17
Q

What are groynes

A

Timber or rock that trap sediment from LSD
Help to build up the beach
Increase tourist potential

Visually unappealing
Increases erosion elsewhere

18
Q

Sea walls

A

Concrete structures
Absorb and reflect wave energy