Coasts Flashcards
High energy coastlines
-Face powerful waves for most of the year
-Erosion exceeds deposition and the landforms reflect this such as headlands with arches and caves eroded into them and wave-cut platforms.
Low energy coastlines
-The waves are less powerful and the coast is more sheltered.
-Deposition exceeds erosion at these coastlines creating beaches and spits.
Constructive waves
Waves with a low wave height, but a long wavelength and a low frequency of around 6-8/min. Swash is more powerful than backwash leading to buildup of beach material.
Destructive waves
-Waves with a high wave height with a steep form and high frequency (10-14/min). Backwash is stronger than swash, so more material is removed than added.
Backwash
The action of water receding back down the beach towards the sea (associated with removal/erosion of material)
Swash
The rush of water up a beach after a wave breaks (associated with deposition of material)
Erosion
The wearing away of the Earth’s surface by the mechanical action of the process of glaciers, wind, rivers, marine waves and wind.
Fetch
The distance of open water over which wind blows uninterrupted by major land obstacles. The length of fetch helps to determine the magnitude and energy of waves reaching the coast.
Mass movement
The movement of material downhill under the influence of gravity, but may also be assisted by rainfall.
Weathering
The breakdown and/or decay of rock at or near the earth’s surface by creating regolith that remains in situ until it is moved by later erosional processes. Weathering can be mechanical, biological or chemical.
Longshore/littoral drift
Where waves approach the shore at an angle and swash and backwash then transport material along the coast in the direction of the prevailing wind and waves.
Wave refraction
When waves approach a coastline that is not a regular shape, they are refracted and become increasingly parallel to the coastline. The overall effect is that the wave energy becomes concentrated on the headland, causing greater erosion. The low-energy waves spill into the bay, resulting in beach deposition.
Tides
The periodic rise and fall of the level of the sea in response to the gravitational pull of the sun and moon.
Outline factors leading to the formation of fjords (4 marks)
-Fjords are an example of coastal landforms of submergence.
-They are primarily a product of glacial erosion.
-As glaciers advanced towards coastal loactions in Norway for example, they carved out vast glacial troughs, through processes such as abrasion and plucking.
-A combination of localised isostatic re-adjustment and global eustatic sea level change has led to the flooding of these valleys.
-For example Sogne Fjord in Norway
-Interglacial period is also a factor leading to the formation of fjords.
Sources of energy in coastal environments
-waves
-wind
-tides
-sea currents
Outline the role of waves in the transportation of sediments at the coast (4 marks)
-Constructive waves tend to bring sediments on to the beach, due to their low energy nature. The swash is greater than the backwash and they have low frequency, height and limited backwash.
-Destructive waves tend to remove sediments from beaches and coastlines, they have powerful backwash and weak swash and high wave frequency and height and associated with high energy coastlines.
Outline littoral (longshore) drift
-Longshore drift is the gradual movement of sediments along a coastline
-Where waves strike the coast at an angle, sediments are moved up the beach at the same angle with the swash.
-The backwash returns sea water and sediments perpendicular to the coastline
-Repeated wave action in this way moves sediments along parallel to the coastline.
Eustatic sea level change vs isostatic sea level change
-Eustatic change is a global change in sea level resulting from an actual fall or rise in the level of the sea itself
-Isostatic change- local changes in sea level resulting from the land rising or falling relative to the sea
Fjord
Former glacial valley drowned by rising sea levels
Ria
Former river valley drowned by rising sea levels
Raised beaches
-Areas of former wave-cut platforms and their beaches which are at a level higher than the present sea level.
Explain the concept of the sediment cell
-A sediment cell is a closed system usually bounded by headlands or a change in longshore drift.