Coasts Flashcards
What is the littoral zone?
Wider coastal zone stretching into the sea and onto the shore. Dynamic interaction in the littoral zone leads to rapid change.
What are the 5 parts of the literal zone, from land to sea?
Coast
Backshore
Foreshore
Nearshore
Offshore
What is the foreshore?
Zone between high and low tide mark
What are the 3 reasons as to why the littoral zone is a dynamic zone of rapid change?
- Marine + terrestrial processes operate + interact
- Extreme events
- Varying human development
What is the difference between a primary and a secondary coastline?
Primary- formed via river deposition/volcanic lava
Secondary- formed via marine erosion/deposition
What are the 3 short-term processes used to classify coasts?
River inputs (extent of deposition)
Waves (high/low energy)
Tides (high/low range)
What are the 2 long-term criteria used to classify coasts?
Geology (hard/soft rock)
Sea level change
In terms of the UK, where are rocky coastlines / coastal plains found?
Rocky- north-west UK
Plains- south & east of UK
What are 5 features of a rocky coast?
- Erosion dominant but slow
- Erosional features
- Geology resistant to erosion
- High-energy environment
- High or low relief
What are 4 features of a coastal plain?
- Depositional features
- Formed by coastal accretion
- Low-energy environment
- Low relief
What are the 2 types of coastal plains?
Sandy (marine deposition)
Estuarine (river deposition)
What is coastal accretion?
Continuous net deposition of sediment, leading to seaward growth, stabilised by vegetation
How does the cliff face differ between rocky and plain cliff profiles?
Rocky- steep face
Plain- curved, lower angle face
What is a concordant coastline, and give an example
Alternating layers of geology are parallel to the coast
Eg: south coast of Dorset
What is a discordant coastline, and give an example
Alternating layers of geology are perpendicular to the coast
Eg: east coast of Dorset
What are the 2 types of concordant coastlines?
Dalmation and Haff
Where are Dalmatian and Haff coastlines found?
Dalmatian- Croatia
Haff- Baltic sea
How are Dalmatian coasts formed in 3 steps?
- Folds are parallel to the coast (concordant)
- Tectonic folding caused ridges (anticlines) and valleys (synclines) parallel to the coast
- At the end of the glacial period, sea level rose leaving narrow islands
How are Haff coasts formed in 2 steps?
- In glacial period, seawater level was lower and meltwater rivers deposited thick layers of sand + gravel to outwash plains
- In interglacial, sea level rise and constructive waves pushed the sand ridge to form a bar and traps river water (lagoon/Haff)
How is the formation of headlands and bays an example of a negative feedback loop in 2 steps?
- Coastal retreat occurs due to alternating bands of hard/soft rock
- Headlands protrude and are more exposed to erosion, accentuated by wave orthogonals and wave refraction
What is geological structure?
Layout of geology in coastal zone
What are the 6 elements that geological structure consists of?
Strata
Bedding planes
Joint
Folds
Faults
Dips
What are bedding planes?
Horizontal cracks, natural break in strata due to the gap in time between rock formation
What are strata?
Layers of rock
What are joints?
Vertical cracks, fractures from contraction as sediment dries out, or tectonic uplift
How are folds created?
Pressure during tectonic activity makes rocks buckle and crumble
How are faults created?
Pressure on a rock exceeds its internal strength so fault slips along fault planes
What is a dip?
The angle at which rock strata lie
What are the 5 types of dips?
Horizontal strata
Gentle seaward dip
Steep seaward dip
Rocks dip inland
Rocks dip inland with joints
Describe horizontal strata and the risk of erosion with this dip
Steep cliffs
Fairly stable so low risk of erosion
Describe gentle seaward dip and the risk of erosion with this dip
Almost vertical joints opened by weathering + pressure release
Risk of erosion from gravity
Describe steep seaward dip and the risk of erosion with this dip
Rock slabs slide down cliff along bedding planes
Risk of erosion due to gravity
Describe rocks dip inland and the risk of erosion with this dip
Stable, steep cliff profile
Low risk as stable
Describe rocks dip inland with joints and the risk of erosion with this dip
Well-developed joints at a right angle to bedding plane
Fairly stable, but some risk as joints act as slide planes
What are the 3 steps as to how a wave-cut platform is formed?
- At high tide, destructive waves hit the base of the cliff, and hydraulic action and abrasion form a wave-cut notch
- The wave-cut notch undercuts cliff leaving destabilised overhang
- The overhang collapses, and the cliff retreats leaving a wave-cut platform
What are the 4 steps as to how a cave/arch/stack/stump is formed?
- Rocks have joints/faults (eg: limestone), hydraulic action and abrasion create cave
- Two caves join or one erodes through creating an arch enlarged at the base
- The top of the arch becomes unstable and collapses leaving a stack
- The stack is vertically eroded to form a stump visible at low tide
What is an example of a WCP on the Jurassic Coast?
Kimmeridge bay
What is an example of folds on the Jurassic Coast?
Lulworth crumple
What is an example of an arch on the Jurassic Coast?
Durdle Door
What is an example of a concordant feature on the Jurassic Coast?
Lulworth Cove (chalk behind stops retreating, so expanding horizontally)
What is lithology?
The physical properties of a rock
What are the 3 types of bedrock lithology?
Igneous
Metamorphic
Sedimentary
How is igneous rock formed?
Cooling + solidifying of lava/magma either intrusive or extrusive
What are 3 examples of igneous rock?
Granite
Basalt
Pumice
What is the rate of erosion for igneous rock?
Very slow (less than 0.1cm/year)
Give 2 reasons why the rate of erosion for igneous rock is very slow
Composed of interlocking crystals making strong hard rock
Few joints/weaknesses that erosion would exploit
How is metamorphic rock formed?
Recrystallisation of igneous/sedimentary rock via heat and pressure, occurs deep at plate boundary
What are 3 examples of metamorphic rock?
Marble
Slate
Schist
What is the rate of erosion for metamorphic rock?
Slow (0.1-0.3 cm/year)
Give 3 reasons why the rate of erosion for metamorphic rock is slow
Crystalline so resistant
Foliation, crystals orientated in same direction, weaknesses
Heavily folded + fractured
How is sedimentary rock formed?
Compaction + solidification of deposited sediments
What are 4 examples of sedimentary rock?
Sandstone
Limestone
Chalk
Shale
What is the rate of erosion for sedimentary rock?
Moderate to fast (0.5-1 cm/year)
Give 3 reasons why the rate of erosion for sedimentary rock is moderate to fast
Most are clastic, broken pieces of old rock
Age, rock is younger so weaker
Many bedding planes and fractures
What is lithification?
When unconsolidated material is compacted + cemented to become consolidated sedimentary rock
What is unconsolidated material?
Younger, loose material that hasn’t compacted so is vulnerable to erosion
What is pore water pressure, and how could this lead to potential erosion in a complex cliff profile?
Pressure water experiences due to the weight of the water above it
Can lead to a line of weaknesses
How can groundwater flow through rock layers weaken rock?
Removes cement that binds sediment together
Also creates high pore water pressure
What is permeable rock, and give 2 examples
Allows water to flow through
Eg: sandstone, limestone
Unconsolidated material is porus
What is impermeable rock, and give some examples
Doesn’t allow groundwater flow
Eg: clays, mudstones, metamorphic + igneous
What are 3 ways in which vegetation can stabilise coastlines?
Plant roots can bind sediment together to reduce erosion
Leaves can slow wind speed at ground level, reducing erosion and increasing deposition
Plants die, adding humus (organic matter) to the soil
What are pioneer species?
First plants to colonise freshly deposited sediment
What is a climatic climax community?
Final community adjusted to climatic conditions of the area
What is the term for a sand dune succession?
Psammosere
What type of plants colonise sand dunes and why?
Xerophytic plants (dry tolerant)
Describe the sand dune succession
Embryo dunes → fore dunes → yellow dunes → grey dunes → dune slack → pine woodland
Why are there non-xerophytic plants towards the end of sand dune successions?
Improved nutrients (humus)
Above high tide, less saline
Improved water retention
How does soil pH change in dune successions as soil has more humus?
8.5 → 4.5
What are 3 examples of plants in a dune succession?
Marram grass
Gorse
Heather
What is the term for a salt marsh succession?
Halosere
What type of plants colonise muddy salt marshes and why?
Halophytic (salt tolerant)
Describe the salt marsh succession
Algal → pioneer → lower salt marsh/establishment → stablisation →higher salt marsh/climax
What may be found at the climax of a salt marsh succession?
Deciduous oak forest
What are 3 examples of plants in a salt marsh succession?
Eelgrass
Cord grass
Sea aster
How do waves form in 3 steps?
- Wind creates frictional drag with the sea surface, which builds up
- Shallow continental shelf creates friction with the sea bed, the circular orbit becomes increasingly elliptical
- Wavelength shortens and the amplitude of the wave increases until the crest outruns the trough and breaks forward
What are the 4 factors affecting wave size?
- Strength of wind
- Duration of wind blowing
- Water depth
- Wave fetch (distance travelled)
What are 5 features of constructive waves?
- Low-energy waves
- Shallower + gently sloping nearshore
- Long wavelength (up to 100m) but low frequency (6-8/min)
- Low amplitude (<1m)
- Swash > backwash as low angle of wave impact
As constructive waves cause beach gain, what feature is formed?
Berms
What are 5 features of destructive waves?
- High-energy waves
- Deeper + steeper nearshore so more circular orbit
- Short wavelength (20m) but high frequency (13-15/min)
- High amplitude (>1m)
- Backwash > swash as it interrupts swash
As destructive waves cause beach loss, what feature is formed?
Offshore bars
What happens in summer to beach morphology?
Swash from constructive waves deposits larger material at the beach, creating a berm which weakens the backwash
What happens in winter to beach morphology?
Strong backwash transports and deposits sediment to form an offshore bar
How do beach sediment profiles vary?
Course + heavy sediment at the top of the beach (eg: gravel, shingle)
Finer sediment lower down the beach
What are tides?
The rise and fall of sea levels caused by gravitational pulling force exerted by the moon (and sun) and Earth’s rotation
What is a tidal range?
Height difference between low and high tide
Why do tides occur?
Centrifugal forces and gravity in opposite directions results in a bulge of water around earth
Why do tides vary daily?
Earth’s rotation means coastal locations past bulge 2x/day, so 2 high tides and 2 low tides
Earth and moon move slightly in their orbit, changing tide times slightly
Why do tides vary monthly?
Spring tide is highest high tide 2x/month, combined gravitational pull of sun and moon
Neap tide is lowest high tide 2x/month, solar tide not alined so decreased tidal range
How will beaches vary over longer periods?
Climate change, extreme weather means more winter profiles
Management interferes with sediment supply, decreasing beach size
How does hydraulic action work?
Air is trapped in cracks, compressed by waves which forces the crack open, it widens and this repeats
What is the influence of lithology on the impact of hydraulic action?
Heavily joined sedimentary vulnerable
Very hard igneous has cooling cracks, HA likely only process operating
How does abrasion (corrasion) work?
Sediment that waves pick up is thrown against the cliff
What is the influence of lithology on the impact of abrasion?
Softer sedimentary more vulnerable
Loose sediment must be available
Also, wave type + energy important
How does attrition work?
Eroded sediment is moved by waves, collisions chip rock to make smaller + rounded
What is the influence of lithology on the impact of attrition?
Softer rocks rapidly reduce in size, contribution to beach formation
How does corrosion (solution) work?
Alkaline rocks/binding cement is dissolved by sea + rain water
What is the influence of lithology on the impact of corrosion?
Mainly limestone as vulnerable to weak acids
What 2 things are erosion influenced by?
Waves
Lithology
What are the 4 transportation processes?
Traction
Saltation
Suspension
Solution
What are the factors that influence sediment transportation?
Angle of wave attack
Longshore drift
Tides
Currents
How can the angle of wave attack influence sediment transportation?
Determines the direction of sediment transportation
Swash aligned- wind directly on shore at 90° angle
Drift aligned- wind at an angle, leads to LSD, dynamic
What is longshore drift, and how can this process influence sediment transportation?
Net lateral transport of material when waves are at an angle
Swash transports material obliquely, with 30° the strongest move
Gravitational backwash moves sediment back down beach
How do tides influence sediment transportation?
Changes in sea level creates tidal currents
Transports sediment in the near/offshore
High tidal range = more powerful waves
What are currents and how do they influence sediment transportation?
Flow of water in a particular direction
Driven by winds, or temperature/density/salinity differences
Transports sediment in near/offshore
Can also be rip currents
When does deposition occur?
When waves no longer have sufficient energy for transportation
What are the 7 distinctive depositional coastal landforms?
Bayhead beaches
Recurved/double spit
Barrier beaches/bars
Barrier island
Offshore bars
Tombolo
Cuspate foreland
How are bayhead beaches formed, and give an example of one
Sediment accumulates at the back of a bay, by constructive waves, wave refraction disperses wave energy
Morfa Harlech, Wales
How are recurved spits formed, and give an example of one
Drift-aligned feature as coastline changes direction and sediment continues to deposit.
2 dominant wind directions lead to recurve, can also recurve via wave refraction depositing landwards
Hurst Castle spit
How are double spits formed, and give an example of one
2 spits from north/south ends of a bay
Poole Harbour
How are barrier beaches/bars formed, and give an example of one
Spit extends across a bay, or a ridge is driven back by constructive waves to form lagoon
Chesil Beach Dorset with Fleet lagoon
How are barrier islands formed, and give an example of one
Beach is separated from mainland, common in low tidal range with gently sloping offshore coastline
Large scale along Dutch coast
Where are offshore bars formed, and give an example of one
Where destructive waves break
Scroby Sands, Norfolk wind farm
How are tombolos formed, and give an example of one
Island causes wave refraction, so depositional
or
LSD builds spit across to island
Portland Bill to mainland Dorset
How are cuspate forelands formed, and give an example of one
Longshore drift from opposing directions
or
Converging of 2 spits- Dungeness Kent
What is the sediment cell concept?
Closed coastal subsystem of sediment sources, transfers and sinks along a coastline
How can you define a source in the sediment cell concept?
Releases more sediment than it absorbs