Coasts Flashcards
Systems
Open systems, energy and matter
Closed system, energy
Is the coast an open or closed system?
Open system
Inputs in a coastal system
Energy from; tides, waves, wind, currents
Sun
Air Pressure
Sediment
Pollution
Outputs in a coastal system
Sediment
Ocean Currents
Rip Tides
Evaporation
Processess in a coastal system
Erosion
Deposition
Longshore drift
Transportation
Weathering
Mass Movement
How many sediment cells are around the UK
11
What is dynamic equilibrium
Balance in a natural system while being in a constant state of change
A balance between inputs and outputs
Why may the equilibrium be distrupted
long term - human activity
short term - natural variations e.g seasons or hazard events
What are the stores in the coastal system
Beaches
Landforms
Where does the coastal system gain energy?
Through winds, gravity and flowing water
What are the feedback loops
positive - exacerbates a change
negative - reduces a change to return to dynamic equilibrium
What are the primary sources of sediment
Rivers
Cliff erosion
Wind
Glaciers
Longshore drift
Define the littoral zone
Area between the cliffs or dunes and the offshore zone beyone the influence of the waves, constantly changing
Explain Wave formation
Wind moves across surface causing frictional drag which creates small ripples and waves and an elliptical movement of the water, the waves become larger as they near the coast as the water becomes shallower
What are the factors affecting wave energy
Strength and duration of the wind
Size of the fetch
What are the two wave types
constructive
Destructive
Tides
Highest high tides and lowest low tides occur when sun and moon aer in alignment -called a ‘spring tide’, it has the highest possible tidal range and occurs due to gravity
Lowest high tide and highest low tides occur when sun and moon are perpendicular - this is known as a neap tide, and has the lowest possible tidal range
Currents
Rip currents are powerful underwater currents occurring in areas close to the shoreline on some beaches when plunging waves cause a buildup of water at the top of the beach
High-energy coastlines
High-energy coastlines are associated with more powerful waves, so occur in areas where there is a large fetch. They typically have rocky headlands and landforms and fairly frequent destructive waves. As a result these coastlines are often eroding as the rate of erosion exceeds the rate of deposition
Low-energy coastlines
Low-energy coastlines have less powerful waves and occur in sheltered areas where
constructive waves prevail and as a result these are often fairly sandy areas. There are
landforms of deposition as the rates of deposition exceed the rates of erosion
Wave refraction
Wave refraction is the process by which waves turn and lose energy around a headland on uneven coastlines. The wave energy is focused on the headlands , creating erosive features in these areas. The energy is dissipated in bays leading to the formation of features associated with lower energy environments such as beaches.
Types of Erosion
Corrasion - Sand and particles are hurled against the side of a cliff at high tide
Abrasion - Sediment is moved along a shoreline causing it to be weakened over time
Attrition - Rocks bounce against eack other
Hydraulic action - air is forced into cracks, joints and faults, high pressure causes mini explosions
Solution - doses of carbonic acid cause the rocks to break down
Factors affecting erosion
Waves
Beaches
Sub Aerial processes
Rock Type
Processes of Transportation
Traction - Large particles are rolled along the sea bed
Saltation - Rocks bounce along sea bed
Suspension - particles are suspended in sea water
Solution - Rocks are dissolved