Coastal Systems & Landscapes

Question 1

inputs of energy

Answer 1

waves, tides, currents

Question 2

how do waves occur

Answer 2

surface of sea exerts frictional drag on lowest layer of wind
higher levels of wind move faster, falling forwards pushing down on the sea surface creating a wave
wind blows on back of small ripple wave grows

Question 3

oscillation waves

Answer 3

move clockwise between wave crest, trough then back to crest but would not move forward

Question 4

swell waves

Answer 4

occur in Atlantic coasts with steep waves caused by strong winds

Question 5

wave refraction

Answer 5

undersea topography slows wave front so it bends and aims to break parallel to shore

e.g. headland and bay - wave energy concentrated on headlands

Question 6

what happens as waves approach the shore

Answer 6

wave depth decreases
shorter wave length and wave height increases
circular orbit moves to elliptical orbit as wave base drags on seabed and wave velocity decreases
wave steepens
body of wave collapses forward rushing up the beach