Coastal processes

Question 1

Backwash

Answer 1

the pull of the wave back into the ocean at a 90 angle from the coastline.

Question 2

Climate change

Answer 2

Shifts and alterations in the worlds climate and temperature, mostly due to changes in the composition of the earths atmosphere, either due to natural or human causes.

Question 3

Coastal recession

Answer 3

extensive erosion results in the coastline receding further inland.

Question 4

Dynamic equilibrium (sediment cells)

Answer 4

Any changes to the influencing factors of a sediment cell will cause the cell to change accordingly.

Question 5

Elliptical movement of waves

Answer 5

water moves in a circular motion as it approaches land, form waves as it becomes distorted.

Question 6

Eustatic change

Answer 6

changes to sea level due to changes to its influencing factors

Question 7

Fetch

Answer 7

the distance travelled by wind over water as it approaches the coastline.

Question 8

Holocene

Answer 8

Our current geological period which began 11,500 years ago with the retreat of the glaciers following the end of the last ice age.

Question 9

Long shore drift

Answer 9

depositional material is transported along the coastline in the direction, rate and angle according to the prevailing wind.

Question 10

Isostatic

Answer 10

Changes in land height due to tectonic or glacial shifts.

Question 11

Milankovitch cycles

Answer 11

Changes in the earths climate over thousands of years due to cyclical shifts in the tilt of the earths axis and the eccentricity of the earths orbit around the sun.

Question 12

Pleistocene

Answer 12

geological period from 2.6 million to 11,500 years ago which oversaw much of the ice ages and the formation of major glaciers and glacial regions.

Question 13

Quaternary

Answer 13

the larger geological period containing the Pleistocene and Holocene.

Question 14

Storm surges

Answer 14

a rapid and extreme rise in sea level that occurs when high spring tides combine with extremely low air pressure within a storm.

Question 15

Sediment cell (positive feedback)

Answer 15

when their are more inputs than outputs from a sediment cell following changes to its equilibria.

Question 16

Sediment cell (negative feedback)

Answer 16

When there are more outputs than inputs from a sediment cell following changes to its equilibria.

Question 17

Swash

Answer 17

the approach of the waves up the beach at the angle according to wind direction, often carrying sediment up it at a 45 degree angle.

Question 18

Thermal expansion

Answer 18

rises in sea temperature result in sea level rises as seawater becomes less dense.