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Geohazard > Coastal Hazard > Flashcards

Coastal Hazard Flashcards

1
Q

Chief agents in shaping our coastline.

A

Waves, currents, tides and winds

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2
Q

True or False. Some coasts are straight, while others are rugged or contain marshes or coral reefs.

A

TRUE

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3
Q

The strip of land bordering the sea or ocean along the continent or an island.

A

Coast/Shore

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4
Q

Marks the seaward limit of the landmass that are exposed to wave action.

A

Coastline/Shoreline

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5
Q

Part of the shore between the high tide and the highest water level, which can only be reached by exceptional storm waves.

A

Backshore

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6
Q

This refers to the zone between high tide and low tide. It is underwater during high tide. It is the surf zone.

A

Foreshore

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7
Q

Between the low-tide breaker line and the low tide shoreline.

A

Nearshore

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8
Q

This part of the shore is nearest to the sea. It is underwater even at low tide.

A

Offshore

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9
Q

Zone affected by wave action

A

Shore

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10
Q

Marks the boundary between the sea and land.

A

Shoreline

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11
Q

Areas where tectonic forces deform and uplift the land. They are usually rugged and irregular, with beaches sometimes being restricted to coves and inlets.

A

Active shoreline

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12
Q

Areas with no tectonic activity, commonly resulting in a relatively straight coastline with flat-lying terrain.

A

Passive shoreline

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13
Q

The outer margins of the continents, where continental crust transition to oceanic crust.

A

Continental Margin

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14
Q

Geologically inactive regions located some distance from plate boundaries and relatively wide and are sites where large quantities of sediments are deposited.

A

Passive continental margin

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15
Q

Located along convergent plate boundaries, where oceanic lithosphere is being subducted beneath the leading edge of a continent.

A

Active continental margin

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16
Q

True or False. The process that affects the shoreline’s nature is relative movement, either seaward or landward.

A

TRUE

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17
Q

The periodic rise and fall of sea level is known as _______.

A

Ocean tides

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18
Q

_______ refers to the difference in sea level between high and low tides.

A

Tidal range

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19
Q

_________ occurs when the moon and sun periodically line up such that gravitational effects reinforce one another.

A

Spring tide

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20
Q

_______ occurs when the gravitational pull of the Moon and Sun are at right angles which tend to cancel the tidal effects of one another.

A

Neap tide

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21
Q

Enumerate the three tidal patterns exist worldwide.

A

Diurnal, Semidiurnal, Mixed tidal pattern

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22
Q

Characterized by a single high tide and single low tide each tidal day.

A

Diurnal

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23
Q

Exhibits single two high tides and two low tides each tidal day; common along Atlantic coast and US.

A

Semidiurnal

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24
Q

Similar to a semidiurnal pattern except that it is characterized by a large inequality in height: water heights, low water heights, or both.

A

Mixed tidal pattern

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25
Q

When the moon is in the full or new position, the tidal bulges created by the sun and moon are aligned and there is a large tidal range.

A

Spring Tide

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26
Q

When the moon is in the first or third-quarter position, the tidal bulges produced by the moon are at right angles to the bulges created by the sun and the tidal range is smaller.

A

Neap Tide

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27
Q

Strong localized currents during high tide formed by the surface of the sea sloping towards the shore which generated mechanical energy that forces water to funnel up into inlets and river channels.

A

Tidal currents

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28
Q

The physical movement of water molecules from one location to another. Ocean currents are driven by various forms of energy and like all things in motion, current flow from an area of high energy to one of low energy.

A

Ocean currents

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29
Q

Large-scale currents in the open water near the surface of the sea which are driven mainly by winds blowing consistently in the same direction.

A

Surface currents

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30
Q

Formed in response to differences in ocean temperature and salinity. Cooler and more saline water is relatively dense which cause it to sink and flow towards areas where water is less dense.

A

Density currents

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31
Q

Transport energy through water such that water molecules move or vibrate in a circular manner.

A

Water waves

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32
Q

The depth where water molecules are no longer affected by passing wave.

A

Wave base

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33
Q

The energy of the wind-generated waves is also affected by the amount of contract area between the wind and water.

A

Fetch

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34
Q

The faster the wind speed, the greater the _________.

A

wave energy

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35
Q

The longer the wind blows, the larger the waves.

A

duration of wind

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36
Q

The greater the _______, the more energy the wave have.

A

fetch

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37
Q

Water from a breaker washing upon a beach at whatever angle.

A

Swash

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38
Q

Swash water retreating back under the influence of gravity.

A

Backwash

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39
Q

Takes the shortest path, direct to the sea, not oblique angle as taken by swash.

A

Backwash

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40
Q
  • Strongest swash and weaker backwash
  • Occurs on gentle sloping coasts
  • Deposits materials on the beach more than it removes.
A

Constructive waves

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41
Q
  • Stronger backwash and weaker swash.
  • Occurs on steep-sloping coasts.
  • Removes materials on the more than it deposits.
A

Destructive waves

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42
Q

As the wave continues towards shore, this cause a progressive decrease in velocity along the length of the wave, forcing it to bend in a process called _________.

A

Wave refraction

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43
Q

A wave whose amplitude reached a critical level at which some process can suddenly start cause large amounts of wave energy.

A

Breaking wave

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44
Q

Refers to the area where the waves break.

A

Surf zone

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45
Q

Ocean current that flow parallel to the shore and is caused by a large series of wave sweeping into the shoreline at an angle.

A

Longshore current

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46
Q

The process of transporting material along a coast by waves that approach at an angle to the shore but recede perpendicular from it.

A

Longshore drift or beach drift

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47
Q

Increase the height of the localized sea level and can travel farther inland than the normal waves during storm events.

A

Storm surge

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48
Q

Large waves caused by a sudden mid/under sea displace of a large volume of water.

A

Tsunamis

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49
Q

Coastline evolve over time due to the erosion and deposition from breaking waves.

A

Shoreline evolution

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50
Q

Interaction between waves and a landmass can cause the shoreline to slowly move landward.

A

Shoreline retreat

51
Q

When land itself becomes lower due to subsidence.

A

Landward migration

52
Q

Accumulations of sediments deposited by waves and longshore currents.

A

Beaches

53
Q

4 main sources of beach sediments.

A

Local cliffs and promontories
Offshore zone
Calcareous sand and shell fragments
Local river bedload material

54
Q

Elongated deposits of sediments parallel the shore and are separated from the main land by open water.

A

Barrier island

55
Q

The origin of barrier island.

A

Sand bars

56
Q

Sand eventually accumulates to where the bar stay above the high tide line, creating a _______.

A

True Island

57
Q

Result from a complex interaction between waves, sea level change, and sediment supply.

A

Barrier island

58
Q

Long narrow ridges of sand and shingle project from the coastline into the sea.

A

Spits

59
Q

Beach tied to the coast at one end and free at the other.

A

Spits

60
Q

Tombolos is also known as __________.

A

Sandy isthmus

61
Q

Depositional landforms by which an island becomes attached to the mainland by a spit or bar.

A

Tombolos

62
Q

Formed when sand deposited off the shore dries out and blown out to the back of the beach.

A

Coastal dunes

63
Q

Coastal dunes usually needs:

A

Large tidal range
Broad intertidal zones
Large supply of sands

64
Q
  • Sites of mud and organic deposition
  • Quiet waters
    -A combination of river processes and coastal processes.
A

Lagoons, mudflats, marshes, and mangrove swamps

65
Q

Wetlands that form as river empty their water and sediment into another body of water such as ocean.

A

Deltas

66
Q

Two major ways of classifying deltas.

A

Influences/processes
Shape

67
Q

Types of influence delta

A

Wave-dominated delta
Tide-dominated delta
Gilbert delta
Estuarine delta

68
Q

Types of shape delta

A

Cuspate delta
Bird-foot delta
Inverted delta
Inland delta
Abandoned delta

69
Q

The movement of waves controls a delta’s size and shape.

A

Wave-dominated delta

70
Q

Form in areas with large tidal range or area between high tide and low tide.

A

Tide dominated delta

71
Q

Formed as river deposits large, coarse sediments.

A

Gilbert deltas

72
Q

Form as a river does not empty directly into the ocean, but forms a partly enclosed wetland that contains brackish water habitat.

A

Estuarine delta

73
Q

Deltas with a triangular shape or fan shape are called __________.

A

Arcuate

74
Q

Stronger waves form a __________ which is more pointed than the arcuate delta, and is toothed shaped.

A

Cuspate delta

75
Q

Widely spaced distributaries, making it look like a birds foot.

A

Bird foot delta

76
Q

The distributary network is inland.

A

Inverted delta

77
Q

Empty into a plain are extremely rare.

A

Inland deltas

78
Q

Forms as a river develops a new channel, leaving the other to dry up or stagnate.

A

Abandoned delta

79
Q

The process of abandoned delta is also called ____________.

A

Avulsion

80
Q

A rock, sandbar, or other feature lying beneath the surface of the water.

A

Reefs

81
Q

Underwater structures made from calcium carbonate secreted by corals.

A

Coral reefs

82
Q

Most coral reefs are less than ________ years old.

A

10,000

83
Q

True or False. Most coral reefs were formed after the last glacial period when melting of ice caused the sea level to rise.

A

TRUE

84
Q

True or False. Coral reeds are found in continental shelves and away from oceanic islands.

A

FALSE. Away from continental shelves and around oceanic island.

85
Q

_____________ set out his theory about atoll formation in ________.

A

Charles Darwin; 1842

86
Q

3 Stages of Atoll Formation

A

Fringing Reef
Barrier Reef
Atoll Reef

87
Q

Directly attached to a shore, or borders it with an intervening shallow channel or lagoon.

A

Fringing Reef

88
Q

Reef separated from a mainland or island shore by a deep channel or lagoon.

A

Barrier Reef

89
Q

More or less circular or continuous barrier reef extends all the way around a lagoon without central island.

A

Atoll Reef

90
Q

Observed where a more resistant portion of the rock remains in the surf, separated from a retreating cliff.

A

Sea stacks

91
Q

Column of rock standing in the water off a beach

A

Chimney

92
Q

Wave erosion has hollowed out a line of weakness in otherwise resistant promontory.

A

Sea arch

93
Q

Repetitive hydraulic action slowly breaks the rocks apart and form a ____________ within the cliff face.

A

undercut/notch

94
Q

Places where waves first make a contact with the land and with a great amount of energy; are the places where erosion is high.

A

Headlands

95
Q

Greatly sloping platforms of rock that extends seaward in to a steep drop off.

A

Shore platforms

96
Q

Enumerate the dominant influences of coastal landforms.

A
  • Type of continental margin
  • Relief, structure, and lithology
  • Climatic influences
  • Rates of erosion
  • Sea level
97
Q

Enumerate the type of continental margin..

A

Pacific type of boundary
Divergent boundaries
Atlantic-type margins

98
Q

Edges of actively diverging plates; form passive margins with continental sheves.

A

Divergent boundaries

99
Q

No continental shelves and deep offshore trenches

A

Pacific type boundary

100
Q

Have shallow and broad continental shelves.

A

Atlantic-type margins

101
Q

The energy available for coastal processes is controlled by wave height, windspeed direction and duration.

A

Climatic influences

102
Q

Influenced by variations in the resistance of rock to fluvial, glacial, and coastal processes.

A

Relief, Structure, and Lithology

103
Q

Coastal zone is a rapid zone of change; thousand tons of sands are transported throughout the day.

A

Rates of erosion

104
Q

Coastal positions have changed almost constantly through constant cycle of glaciation and melting.

A

Sea level

105
Q

Solid walls made resistant to materials such as concrete, rocks, or wood built parallel and on the coast.

A

Sea walls

106
Q

Solid walls are usually made of granite built parallel to the coast, or with one end attached to the coast.

A

Breakwaters

107
Q

Solid walls are usually made of granite or wood built on and perpendicular to the coast.

A

Groynes/Groins

108
Q

Barriers made of a large rock are installed at the mouth of an inlet to keep sediments from longshore current.

A

Jetties

109
Q

Wire cages filled with small rocks piled up and placed along the coast.

A

Gabions

110
Q

Manually add sands to the beach is a process called ________.

A

Beach nourishment

111
Q

Existing structures would either be allowed to fall into the sea or be relocated farther inland.

A

Natural retreat

112
Q

Tools used for assessing coastal vulnerability

A

CIVAT
ICSEA-C-Change
TURF

113
Q

CIVAT

A

Coastal Integrity and Vulnerability Assessment Tool

114
Q

ICSEA-C-Change

A

Integrated Coastal Sensitivity, Exposure, and Adaptive Capacity to Climate Change

115
Q

TURF

A

Tool for Understanding Fisheries Resilience

116
Q

Related to storm events because both wind and wave energy are at their highest.

A

Coastal hazards

117
Q

Refer to large rotating low-pressure storm systems that originate in tropical oceans

A

Tropical cyclone

118
Q

Unusually strong winds associated with hurricanes result from the circulating air masses within the storm.

A

High winds

119
Q

Hurricanes have winds speed at least ________.

A

74 miles per hour

120
Q

Anything less than 74 miles per hour winds is called _____________.

A

Tropical storm or depression

121
Q

Winds and low pressure within a hurricane produce a rise in sea level called ________.

A

Storm surge

122
Q

Storm surges usually have _________ rise in sea level.

A

up tp 9 meters

123
Q

________ commonly leads to ___________ far from where a storm makes landfall.

A

Intense precipitation;
Inland flooding

124
Q

Enumerate ways to mitigate storm hazards

A

Avoid settlement on the coast,
Development of early warning signs,
Forecasting models,
Elevate the building above the expected storm surge level,
Use metal straps to secure the roof to the main structure.

Geohazard (13 decks)

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