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GEOG 101 > Coastal Geography, Beach-dune System > Flashcards

Coastal Geography, Beach-dune System Flashcards

1
Q

Why are beaches so resilient to erosion?

A

Beaches exist because they are adaptable/malleable. They accomodate wave energy

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2
Q

Landward limit

A

The end of where water runs up the coast

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3
Q

Seaward limit

A

Where waves encounter the seafloor

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4
Q

What are the five main components of a beach-dune system?

A

The berm, beach face, runnel/ridge, low tide terrace, trough/longshore bar

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5
Q

Berm

A

A nearly horizontal ridge formed by swash deposition

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6
Q

Beach face

A

The swash/backwash zone

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7
Q

Runnel/ridge

A

Runnel: A drainage route for tides on the low tide terrace

Ridge: The raised area flanking either side of the runnel

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8
Q

Low tide terrace

A

A flat, extensive part of the beach composed of fine sand that becomes exposed at low tide

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9
Q

Trough/longshore bar

A

Trough: A deep part of the beach that is submerged even at low tide

Longshore bar: The top of the trough

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10
Q

Sand dunes

A

A temporary mound of sand that forms on the beach from desposited sediment

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11
Q

What happens to sand dunes during storms?

A

The sand is eroded and deposited offshore, usually returning during calmer weather

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12
Q

What are the two types of beach profiles and their implication for the transport of sediment?

A

Steep profile: Sediment transported and deposited onshore

Flat profile: Sediment transported and deposited offshore

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13
Q

What are the two main controls of beach profile?

A

Sediment and wave energy

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14
Q

What three parts of sediment influence the beach profile?

A

Sediment size, percolation, and angle of repose

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15
Q

How does sediment size influence beach profile?

A

Finer sediment will result in a flatter beach while larger, coarser sediment will result in a steeper beach

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16
Q

Percolation

A

The rate at which water will pass through sediment

Larger sediment = Greater percoation

17
Q

How does percolation influence beach profile?

A

Both well sorted sand and poorly sorted sand with pebbles results in a flatter beach gradient

Contrarily, well sorted pebbles result in a stepper beach gradient

18
Q

Angle of repose

A

The angle at which loose material can maintain a slope

19
Q

How does angle of repose influence beach profile?

A

A lower angle of repose (sand) results in a flatter beach gradient

Contrarily, a higher angle or repose (gravel and pebbles) results in a steeper beach gradient

20
Q

What are the two types of wave energy and what types of beaches do they form?

A

High wave energy: Forms a dissipative beach. Dissipates wave energy

Low wave energy: Forms a reflective beach. Reflects wave energy

21
Q

What are the characteristics of a dissipative beach?

A

High energy, flat gradient, wide surf zone, small/fine sediment, spilling waves

22
Q

What are the characteristics of a reflective beach

A

Low energy, steep gradient, narrow surf zone, large/coarse sediment, surging waves

23
Q

In realtion to sediment sorting, what is the relationship between energy and time?

A

More energy + More time = Better sorting

24
Q

What two conditions change beach profiles

A

Summer (swell) conditions and Winter (storm) conditions

25
Q

What are the five main characteristics of Summer (swell) conditions

A

Regular waves, onshore sand transport, beach construction, berm-build up, and a steep beach gradient

26
Q

What are the five main characteristics of Winter (storm) conditions?

A

High storm waves, offshore sand transport, beach erosion, longshore bar accretion, and low beach gradient

27
Q

What are bars and how do they form?

A

Bars are areas of sediment convergence while troughs are areas of sediment divergence

28
Q

Why do bars migrate?

A

In high wave events, bars migrate offshore due to increased erosion

Contrarily, in low wave events, bars migrate onshore due to increased deposition

29
Q

Why does beach erosion occur during storm conditions?

A

Under storm conditions, more sediment is eroded and transported offshore as backwash remains onshore for a longer period of time

30
Q

Storm surge

A

A combination of wind set up (strong winds) and pressure set up (low pressure), causing MSL to rise

31
Q

Constructive waves

A

Low energy waves with a weaker backwash that deposits more sediment. Occurs during Summer (swell) conditons

32
Q

Destructive waves

A

High energy waves with a stronger backwash that erodes ad transports more sedimentl. Occurs during Winter (storm) conditions

GEOG 101 (28 decks)

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