Chpt. 18 - Chemical Texture Services Flashcards
BASE SECTIONS
Subsections of panels into which hair is divided for perm wrapping; one rod is normally placed on each base section
BASE RELAXERS
Relaxers that require the application of protective base cream to the entire scalp prior to the application of the relaxer
BASIC PERM WRAP
Perm wrap in which all the rods within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal size bases; all base sections are horizontal with the same length and width as the perm rod.
BOOKEND WRAP
Perm wrap in which one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope
BRICKLAY PERM WRAP
Perm wrap similar to actual technique of bricklaying; base sections are offset from each other row by row
CHEMICAL HAIR RELAXING
Rearranges the structure of curly hair into a straighter or smoother form
CHEMICAL TEXTURE SERVICE
Hair services that cause a chemical change that permanently alters the natural wave pattern of the hair
CONCAVE RODS
Perm rods that have a smaller diameter in the center that increases to a larger diameter on the ends.
CROQUINOLE PERM WRAPS
Perms in which the hair strands are wrapped at an angle perpendicular to the perm rod, in overlapping concentric layers.
CURVATURE PERM WRAP
Perm wrap in which partings and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head
DISULFIDE BONDS
Chemical side bonds that are formed when the sulfur atoms into adjacent protein chains are joined together. disulfide bonds can only be broken by chemicals and cannot be broken by heat or water.
DOUBLE FLAT WRAP
Perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under, and one is placed over, the strand of hair being wrapped
DOUBLE-ROD (PIGGYBACK) TECHNIQUE
Prewrapped in which 2 rods are used for one strand of hair, one on top of the other
ENDOTHERMIC WAVES
Perm activated by an outside heat source usually a conventional hood-type dryer
EXOTHERMIC WAVES
Creates an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up processing
GLYCERYL MONOTHIOGLYCOLATE (GMTG)
Main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions
HALF-OFF BASE PLACEMENT
Base control in which the hair is wrapped at an angle of 90° (perpendicular) to its base section and the rod is positioned half off its base
HYDROGEN BONDS
Week physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges; easily broken by water, as in wet setting, or heat as in thermal styling, and reform as the hair dries or cools
HYDROXIDE NEUTRALIZATION
The neutralization of hydroxide relaxers is an acid-alkali neutralization reaction that neutralizes (deactivates) the alkaline residues left in the hair by the hydroxide relaxer and lowers the pH of the hair and scalp. hydroxide relaxer neutralization does not involve oxidation or rebuild disulfide bonds
HYDROXIDE RELAXERS
Very strong alkalis with a pH over 13. the hydroxide ion is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers
LANTHIONIZATION
Process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair; breaks the hairs disulfide bonds during processing and converts them to lanthionine bonds when the relaxer is rinsed from the hair
LOOP or CIRCLE ROD
Tool that is usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod
LOW-pH WAVES
Perms that work at a low pH and use sulfates, sulfites, and bisulfite as an alternative to ammonium thioglycolate
METAL HYDROXIDE RELAXERS
Ionic compounds formed by a metal (sodium, potassium, or lithium) combined with oxygen and hydrogen
NO BASE RELAXERS
Relaxers that do not require application of a protective base cream
NORMALIZING LOTIONS
Conditioners that restore the hairs natural pH after a hydroxide relaxer and prior to shampooing
OFF-BASE PLACEMENT
Base control in which the hair is wrapped at a 45° angle below perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned completely off its base
ON-BASE PLACEMENT
Base control in which the hair is wrapped at a 45° angle beyond perpendicular to its base section and the rod is positioned on its base section.
PEPTIDE BONDS or END BONDS
Chemical bonds that join amino acids together to form polypeptide chains.
POLYPEPTIDE CHAINS
Long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds
SALT BONDS
Relatively weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite electric charges; easily broken by changes in pH as in permanent waving and re-form when the pH returns to normal
SIDE BONDS
Disulfide, salt, and hydrogen bonds that cross-link polypeptide chains together. Side bonds are responsible for the elasticity and incredible strength of the hair.
SINGLE FLAT WRAP
Perm wrap that is similar to double flat wrap but uses only one end paper, placed over the top of the strand of hair being wrapped.
SOFT BENDER RODS
Tool about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length. These soft foam rods have a stiff wire inside that permits them to be bent into almost any shape
SOFT CURL PERMANENT
Combination of a thio relaxer and a thio permanent wrapped on existing curls larger and looser
SPIRAL PERM WRAP
Hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod, which causes the hair to spiral along the the length of the rod, similar to the grip on a tennis racket.
STRAIGHT RODS
Perm rods that are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area.
THIOGLYCOLIC ACID
Colorless liquid with a strong unpleasant odor; provides the hydrogen that causes the reduction reaction in permanent waving solutions
THIO NEUTRALIZATION
Stops the action of a permanent waving solution and rebuilds the hair in its new curly form
THIO RELAXERS
Use the same ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) that is used in permanent waving but at a higher concentration and the pH above 10
THIO-FREE WAVES
Perms that use cysteamine or mercaptamine instead of ammonium thioglycolate as the primary reducing agent.
TRUE ACID WAVES
Have a pH between 4.5 and 7.0, require heat to process (endothermic), process more slowly than alkaline waves, and do not usually produce as firm a curl as alkaline waves.
WEAVE TECHNIQUE
Wrapping technique that uses zigzag partings to divide base areas.
