chapter 9 anti-ageing and whitening products

Question 1

clinical symptoms of ageing (6)

Answer 1

1. wrinkles
2. yellowing
3. sagging
4. pigmentation disorders
5. freckles and age spots
6. extreme dryness

Question 2

chemicals that protect skin’s surface integrity (2) and how

Answer 2

1. keratin
   - absorbs and retains water
2. lipids
   - forms layer to lock in water

Question 3

factors affecting premature ageing (7)

Answer 3

1. environmental pollution
2. smoking
3. stress levels
4. diet
5. genetics
6. pregnancy
7. late nights

Question 4

how to achieve anti-ageing via DIET (3)

Answer 4

1. carotenoid supplementation
2. vitamin C
3. linoleic acid (found in veg. oil)

Question 5

anti-ageing actives that are antioxidants (need 3 only)

Answer 5

● alpha lipoic acid
● coQ10
● copper tripeptide-1
● DMAE
● green tea extract
● vit C, E, K

Question 6

anti-ageing actives that promote skin repair and healing (need 3 only)

Answer 6

● allantoin
● coQ10
● alpha lipoic acid
● AHA
● vit C, E

Question 7

anti-ageing actives that are anti-wrinkle (need 3 only)

Answer 7

● alpha lipoic acid
● hydrolysed collagen
● DMAE
● green tea extract
● hyaluronic acid
● vit C

Question 8

anti-ageing actives that are anti-inflammatory

Answer 8

● allantoin

● green tea extract

Question 9

anti-ageing actives that trigger collagen production

Answer 9

● AHA
● copper tripeptide-1
● vit C

Question 10

anti-ageing actives that hydrate, firm and plump

Answer 10

● hyaluronic acid

● hydrolysed collagen

Question 11

what is hyperpigmentation

Answer 11

● common, usu harmless condition
● patches of skin become darker than normal surrounding skin
● due to excess melanin production

Question 12

melanogenesis

Answer 12

biosynthetic pathway for formation of melanin pigment in human skin

1. melanosomes in melanocytes in stratum basale of epidermis convert tyrosine into melanin
2. melanosomes transport melanin to keratinocytes via long projection channels

Question 13

3 approaches to lighten skin

Answer 13

1. reduce tyrosinase activity
2. suppress/inhibit tyrosinase activity (most common, aka tyrosinase inhibitors)
3. reduce melanin in skin (hydroquinone, the only chemical that can do so is prohibited in ACD as it is classified as a controlled drug)

Question 14

whitening actives that are tyrosinase inhibitors (most common approach) (7)

Answer 14

● vit C + derivatives
● kojic acid
● arbutin
● licorice
● niacinamide
● mulberry extract
● sodium lactate