chapter 10 anti-acne products Flashcards

1
Q

acne: men vs women

A

men: 16-19 y.o., more severe, long-lasting
women: 14-17 y.o., intermittent acne (due to cosmetics + hormonal changes associated with menstrual cycle)

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2
Q

which parts of the body do acne develop? (7)

A

areas where seb. glands are most numerous

face
scalp
neck
chest
back
upper arms
shoulders
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3
Q

why does acne occur? (2)

A

acne occurs due to

  1. increased sebum production and
  2. abnormal keratinisation
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4
Q

process of formation of acne (4)

A
  1. sebum trapped within hair follicle
  2. horn cells are stuck rather than fall off
  3. horny layer thickens
  4. duct is blocked
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5
Q

basic factors for development of acne (4)

A
  1. hormones (androgens)
  2. increased sebum production
  3. changes inside follicle
  4. bacteria
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6
Q

treatment approaches for acne (3)

A
  1. reduce sebum production
  2. normalise shedding of skin cells or unplug clogged pores
  3. reduce P. acnes bacteria
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7
Q

why cannot target hormones (androgens) to treat acne w cosmetics ?

A

not applicable bc cosmetics cannot affect bodily function

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8
Q

how do BHAs like salicylic acid treat acne (approach)

A
  1. reduce sebum production
  2. normalise the shedding of skin cells or unplug clogged pores
  3. reduces P. acnes bacteria
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9
Q

how do OTC drug products like benzoyl peroxide and sulphur treat acne?

A
  1. reduce sebum production

2. reduce P. acnes bacteria

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10
Q

how does niacinamide treat acne

A
  1. reduce sebum production

2. reduces P. acnes

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11
Q

how does glycolic acid (AHA) treat acne

A

normalise shedding of skin cells or unplug clogged pores

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12
Q

how do lactic acid (AHA) and its derivatives treat acne

A

lactic acid

  1. normalise shedding of skin cells or unplug clogged pores
  2. reduce P. acnes
sodium lactate (derivative)
- reduce P. acnes
zinc lactate (derivative)
- reduce sebum production
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13
Q

how do zinc gluconate and zinc PCA treat acne

A

reduce sebum production

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14
Q

ingredients that reduce sebum production (7)

A
● salicylic acid
● zinc lactate
● zinc gluconate
● zinc PCA (zinc salt of L-PCA)
● niacinamide
● benzoyl peroxide
● sulphur
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15
Q

ingredients that normalise shedding of skin cells or unplug clogged pores (3)

A

● BHA (salicylic acid)
● AHA (glycolic acid, lactic acid)
● retinoic acid eg. tretinoin (by doctors only)

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16
Q

ingredients that reduce P. acnes bacteria (7)

A
● triclosan
● tea tree oil
● salicylic acid
● lactic acid and its derivatives
● niacinamide
● benzoyl peroxide
● sulphur