chapter 10 anti-acne products Flashcards
acne: men vs women
men: 16-19 y.o., more severe, long-lasting
women: 14-17 y.o., intermittent acne (due to cosmetics + hormonal changes associated with menstrual cycle)
which parts of the body do acne develop? (7)
areas where seb. glands are most numerous
face scalp neck chest back upper arms shoulders
why does acne occur? (2)
acne occurs due to
- increased sebum production and
- abnormal keratinisation
process of formation of acne (4)
- sebum trapped within hair follicle
- horn cells are stuck rather than fall off
- horny layer thickens
- duct is blocked
basic factors for development of acne (4)
- hormones (androgens)
- increased sebum production
- changes inside follicle
- bacteria
treatment approaches for acne (3)
- reduce sebum production
- normalise shedding of skin cells or unplug clogged pores
- reduce P. acnes bacteria
why cannot target hormones (androgens) to treat acne w cosmetics ?
not applicable bc cosmetics cannot affect bodily function
how do BHAs like salicylic acid treat acne (approach)
- reduce sebum production
- normalise the shedding of skin cells or unplug clogged pores
- reduces P. acnes bacteria
how do OTC drug products like benzoyl peroxide and sulphur treat acne?
- reduce sebum production
2. reduce P. acnes bacteria
how does niacinamide treat acne
- reduce sebum production
2. reduces P. acnes
how does glycolic acid (AHA) treat acne
normalise shedding of skin cells or unplug clogged pores
how do lactic acid (AHA) and its derivatives treat acne
lactic acid
- normalise shedding of skin cells or unplug clogged pores
- reduce P. acnes
sodium lactate (derivative) - reduce P. acnes
zinc lactate (derivative) - reduce sebum production
how do zinc gluconate and zinc PCA treat acne
reduce sebum production
ingredients that reduce sebum production (7)
● salicylic acid ● zinc lactate ● zinc gluconate ● zinc PCA (zinc salt of L-PCA) ● niacinamide ● benzoyl peroxide ● sulphur
ingredients that normalise shedding of skin cells or unplug clogged pores (3)
● BHA (salicylic acid)
● AHA (glycolic acid, lactic acid)
● retinoic acid eg. tretinoin (by doctors only)